Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[Bitter]

My milling machine is a little out of spec but I cut some pockets for the hardware and tools, hopefully enough room to work with.

[Beerzerker]

@Bitter It's confession time - I believe I was wrong about a Model A not having an oil pump, seems they do after all.

It's true they don't have an oil filter or provision for it BUT after doing more research I did discover there is an oil pump in the engine after all.
My previous has been edited to prevent any misinformation from being gleaned from it as "Fact" when it's not.

Today we will be changing the oil for preparation of an extended run once we get the radiator checked, water pump lubed/greased and the carburator cleaned and remounted. I personally will be looking at the oil as it drains to check for signs of trouble, I doubt there will be but you never know either. As long as there aren't any bits chunks or excessive "Silver" coming out it should be OK but if any of that is observed we'll have to drop the pan and see what's up.

A little bit of a silvery look/residue in the oil itself is normal but when it looks like you have a silver mine in full production, it's time to go in and see what's up.

I did learn when dropping the oil pan you have to use a threaded insert tool in the side of the block where the oil pump is to keep the oil pump itself from dropping when the pan is removed so we'd have to get or make one of those tools.
Take time to fully drain the oil since some normally stays in the motor (About a quart), clean the pan and so on - If we do drop it that's what and how we'll go at it.

The owner as said didn't want anything unneccesary done and for us to get it running, which has been done... But at the same time if it's a problem or has any signs of such we'll tackle it and be done with it.
Right now the focus is for it to run for a length of time so it gets to temperature and so on, you can't really tell much from just 30 seconds of runtime you know except that it runs.... For now anyway until it's really tested.
Nope - Can't let it slide that way.

Will update things as they progress.

[Bitter]

Bore scope camera for your phone man, like $30 for one with a front and side lens will let you see soooo much inside the engine. Rather than assuming or guessing you'll have picture proof that it's fine or it's fucked. And that can come in handy in the future if someone tries to raise a stink.

[SimplyChunk]

6 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Bore scope camera for your phone man, like $30 for one with a front and side lens will let you see soooo much inside the engine. Rather than assuming or guessing you'll have picture proof that it's fine or it's fucked. And that can come in handy in the future if someone tries to raise a stink.

My Uncle has been a mechanic for all his life and he uses a cheap little snake cam that he got off'f Amazon years ago.  He just plugs it in the bottom of his phone and opens the app for it and he can record 1080p 60 vids from it with ease.  it even has a ring light around the lens

[Bitter]

Need to trim one end a bit but I think I can get it to work out! I'll weld it up Monday on lunch, grind it down smooth, and get it all painted here at home.

 

Injector seals came so I can get those hopefully swapped this weekend, aftermarket seals look a little different so I'm not 100% sure they'll work out. I might have to order dealer parts.

[Bitter]

Just now, SimplyChunk said:

My Uncle has been a mechanic for all his life and he uses a cheap little snake cam that he got off'f Amazon years ago.  He just plugs it in the bottom of his phone and opens the app for it and he can record 1080p 60 vids from it with ease.  it even has a ring light around the lens

Yes. They're a lifesaver! I love the new ones with side cameras so you can look sideways.

[Beerzerker]

12 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Bore scope camera for your phone man, like $30 for one with a front and side lens will let you see soooo much inside the engine. Rather than assuming or guessing you'll have picture proof that it's fine or it's fucked. And that can come in handy in the future if someone tries to raise a stink.

My phone can't be used that way (It's an older flip phone) so if that's done, myself or the shop owner would need an actual bore/scope cam to see what's up.
I know where I can borrow one though and will get that if there is any evidence of some real fuckery going on.

ATM it's going with the plan of attack and moving on from there.

Once we get the previous done, it's on to see if the clutch and brakes are OK.
The clutch AND brakes are all mechanical so it's really not expected for those adjustments to be "Off" since it was a properly running, driving car when parked years ago. We do plan on seeing if it will move today if possible and go from there.
Just testing all that to be sure all is working OK and only diving in if we have to - Which is possible if a brake for example is sticking or the clutch is sticking itself.

Checking the gearbox oil, differential lube, wheel bearing lube and the seals for each associated is part of the plan too of course, can't forget about all that.

I will try and remember to record a video of it running and post that later if I do get a vid of it.

[Bitter]

Cheap android tablet works fine too. Hell you can use the included C to A adapter and plug it into a laptop too.

[Bitter]

Good enough. Make sure it fits at home (probably will), paint it, and that's that!

[bcredeur97]

Had a sudden drive to get the miata going couple weeks ago.

So it's back up and running. Drove it a little last weekend, and a good 80 miles this weekend. Fresh gas, changed oil and coolant, working on other fluids soon. Also going to put some fresh pads on it. New calipers in the back, and probably get some Falken Azenis RT615K+'s on the wheels. Oh and cleaning it. Didn't do a good job but good enough for me to want to drive it, lol. Thing looked like a barn find.

Kinda tempted to try to make one of the track night in America's this year at NOLA motorsports park. But then i'd have to put a roll bar on it. And for me that's not super simple, have to check that my head will clear it because I sure as heck don't want to hit my head on it lol. If it doesn't, then that means I have to get lower in the car. And that's difficult!! Should of bought a fun car with a roof LOL. 

[Bitter]

12 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

Had a sudden drive to get the miata going couple weeks ago.

So it's back up and running. Drove it a little last weekend, and a good 80 miles this weekend. Fresh gas, changed oil and coolant, working on other fluids soon. Also going to put some fresh pads on it. New calipers in the back, and probably get some Falken Azenis RT615K+'s on the wheels. Oh and cleaning it. Didn't do a good job but good enough for me to want to drive it, lol. Thing looked like a barn find.

Kinda tempted to try to make one of the track night in America's this year at NOLA motorsports park. But then i'd have to put a roll bar on it. And for me that's not super simple, have to check that my head will clear it because I sure as heck don't want to hit my head on it lol. If it doesn't, then that means I have to get lower in the car. And that's difficult!! Should of bought a fun car with a roof LOL. 

It's almost Celica season. I know that excited feeling, every year

[AlwaysFSX]

2 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

because I sure as heck don't want to hit my head on it lol.

https://www.amazon.com/Fix-Find-flexible-colorful-Noodles/dp/B004UHED0C/

[Bitter]

You seen this before? Code 34-05 power relay stuck off for EPS on a 14 Accord. @vetali

 

[vetali]

3 hours ago, Bitter said:

You seen this before? Code 34-05 power relay stuck off for EPS on a 14 Accord. @vetali

Should be a TSB to replace the EPS unit.

Edit: those were older accords. This one says to check for updates, if that doesn't fix it (never does btw) then replace EPS control unit.

[Bitter]

38 minutes ago, vetali said:

Should be a TSB to replace the EPS unit.

Edit: those were older accords. This one says to check for updates, if that doesn't fix it (never does btw) then replace EPS control unit.

Yeah that's what we sold. Never had a steering wheel with Parkinsons when it's touched lol. If there's not a core on the module I'll pop the old one open to see if I can see what failed, there's a constant -2V offset between actual input voltage and data voltage. Everything has great looking connectors with correct voltage along the way, those spades that Honda uses on those terminals are nice and big, GM could learn a thing or two there.

[vetali]

33 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Yeah that's what we sold. Never had a steering wheel with Parkinsons when it's touched lol. If there's not a core on the module I'll pop the old one open to see if I can see what failed, there's a constant -2V offset between actual input voltage and data voltage. Everything has great looking connectors with correct voltage along the way, those spades that Honda uses on those terminals are nice and big, GM could learn a thing or two there.

There shouldn't be. Never really see Hondas with burnt up connectors unlike GM.

 

Had an HRV in today with the wipers stuck on high after the customer spilled coffee "in their dash". Attempted to get a more specific location from the advisor unsuccessfully because they are useless cretins. So I swapped a wiper switch from another HRV waiting on a transmission... still stuck. So now I actually start popping off panels and the MICU got completely soaked by coffee lol.

[bcredeur97]

49 minutes ago, vetali said:

There shouldn't be. Never really see Hondas with burnt up connectors unlike GM.

 

Had an HRV in today with the wipers stuck on high after the customer spilled coffee "in their dash". Attempted to get a more specific location from the advisor unsuccessfully because they are useless cretins. So I swapped a wiper switch from another HRV waiting on a transmission... still stuck. So now I actually start popping off panels and the MICU got completely soaked by coffee lol.

sounds expensive

[Bitter]

1 hour ago, vetali said:

There shouldn't be. Never really see Hondas with burnt up connectors unlike GM.

 

Had an HRV in today with the wipers stuck on high after the customer spilled coffee "in their dash". Attempted to get a more specific location from the advisor unsuccessfully because they are useless cretins. So I swapped a wiper switch from another HRV waiting on a transmission... still stuck. So now I actually start popping off panels and the MICU got completely soaked by coffee lol.

Listen, even when you directly ask customers it's a real fuckin coin flip. You either get someone who's on point and will tell you exactly what you need to know, you'll get someone who will just agree with anything ANYTHING you say even if it's completely wrong just because they want to agree and sound like they know what they're talking about too, or you'll get someone who doesn't know and doesn't care until the bill comes then is very suddenly a mechanic and will tell you all the ways you did it wrong. You're almost better going in blind.

12 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

sounds expensive

It will be

[vetali]

30 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

sounds expensive

It was a $1k cup of coffee.

 

16 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Listen, even when you directly ask customers it's a real fuckin coin flip. You either get someone who's on point and will tell you exactly what you need to know, you'll get someone who will just agree with anything ANYTHING you say even if it's completely wrong just because they want to agree and sound like they know what they're talking about too, or you'll get someone who doesn't know and doesn't care until the bill comes then is very suddenly a mechanic and will tell you all the ways you did it wrong. You're almost better going in blind.

I've dealt with customers before. You can tell pretty fast if its a customer worth trying to pry for more information within 10 seconds of the interaction, and thats pretty generous. If they admit they spilled a cup of coffee on their dash rather than say "idk just started doing it lol", they can probably tell you specifically. Service advisors are just lazy.

[AlwaysFSX]

2 hours ago, vetali said:

and the MICU got completely soaked by coffee lol.

Wtf where do you even put a cup of coffee on the dash?? It's not flat.

[Bitter]

@vetali

What are the chances of having power steering without module programming, good enough to drive it to the dealer?

[vetali]

8 hours ago, Bitter said:

@vetali

What are the chances of having power steering without module programming, good enough to drive it to the dealer?

Shouldn't have to take it to the dealer. Just do EPS calibration and then VSA all sensor calibration.

[bcredeur97]

@Bitter Falken's getting fitted to wheels for the miata tomorrow. 

Also, bit of an idiot moment for me. I ordered these- > https://949racing.com/product/949-racing-7075-forged-alloy-lugs-12x1-5-thread/ to replace my cheapo lugs for the Koenig wheels that have the paint all chipped up on them and look terrible (plus they are those spline-type ones, hate it, I just got it because I had to get something a long time ago). I get them in and I realize... holy crap these things are super light. They are aluminum! One part of me was cool, the other part was thinking putting aluminum lug nuts on steel studs does not sound ideal, and may actually be a horrible idea. What do you think?

Figured out the M2 sport bar from Hard Dog is fine for a track day, as long as you get the diagonal bracing (what y'all think, 1 or 2 diagonals? To me, 2 looks better and is a bit less in the way as far as raising the soft-top goes) https://trackdogracing.com/hd-m2sport-bp.aspx

Still need to get in the car, and measure if my head will clear though. 

And of course I'm forgetting, it gets freaking hot here. So it'll certainly need a bigger rad. The stock ones aren't enough for sustained track use, from what I understand.

[Bitter]

2 hours ago, vetali said:

Shouldn't have to take it to the dealer. Just do EPS calibration and then VSA all sensor calibration.

I'll see if our Snappy scan tool can do that, would be super nice since we're down to just two employees right now and one of them is the boss. Thanks for the heads up, appreciate it. Dealer said 'it's not listed as plug and play in the parts system so it needs programming' and service only heard 'program the thing' and spit out the flat rate price on it.

[Bitter]

2 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

@Bitter Falken's getting fitted to wheels for the miata tomorrow. 

Also, bit of an idiot moment for me. I ordered these- > https://949racing.com/product/949-racing-7075-forged-alloy-lugs-12x1-5-thread/ to replace my cheapo lugs for the Koenig wheels that have the paint all chipped up on them and look terrible (plus they are those spline-type ones, hate it, I just got it because I had to get something a long time ago). I get them in and I realize... holy crap these things are super light. They are aluminum! One part of me was cool, the other part was thinking putting aluminum lug nuts on steel studs does not sound ideal, and may actually be a horrible idea. What do you think?

Figured out the M2 sport bar from Hard Dog is fine for a track day, as long as you get the diagonal bracing (what y'all think, 1 or 2 diagonals? To me, 2 looks better and is a bit less in the way as far as raising the soft-top goes) https://trackdogracing.com/hd-m2sport-bp.aspx

Still need to get in the car, and measure if my head will clear though. 

And of course I'm forgetting, it gets freaking hot here. So it'll certainly need a bigger rad. The stock ones aren't enough for sustained track use, from what I understand.

Porsche ran (or maybe still runs) alloy lug nuts on steel studs. I don't think you'd want aluminum wheel studs lol. I think with alloy lug nuts you need twice the thread engagement for safety over steel? It's been a while. Some places might be picky about them for tech inspection though, best to ask ahead of time.