Is my PSU or my MoBo?

[Evilevf]

So, this is my story, i had been using this pc that i bought 2 years ago

• Intel Core i5 - 4440 @ 3.10 Ghz (Using a Cooler Master Hyper 103)
• Asus GTX 750 Ti 2GB GDDR5
• Asus Z97-K CSM
• Kingston HyperX Fury 8Gb DDR3 1866Mhz
• Western Digital 1TB 7200RPM Blue

All of these components running under a 500W power supply, because i like to gaming in my computer i decided to buy recent most played titles (CSGO, Dota2, PUBG, etc..) but i had a problem, my GTX 750 could run those games but not at a framerate that i like to play, so i took the choice to buy a GTX 1060, also from Asus to minimize compatibility problems with my motherboard, after i installed it and started playing my favorite games i noticed that everytime i joined a match Asus Anti Surge protection triggered, so i started searching for answers on the internet, most of them said that was a PSU problem, since i know people here on Tom's Hardware are pretty serious helping others i decided to ask for your help.
Forgot to mention that i added x2 Other HyperX Fury 8Gb rams, and also i have my PC on almost 20 Hours a day

[Changis]

3 minutes ago, Evilevf said:

So, this is my story, i had been using this pc that i bought 2 years ago

• Intel Core i5 - 4440 @ 3.10 Ghz (Using a Cooler Master Hyper 103)
• Asus GTX 750 Ti 2GB GDDR5
• Asus Z97-K CSM
• Kingston HyperX Fury 8Gb DDR3 1866Mhz
• Western Digital 1TB 7200RPM Blue

All of these components running under a 500W power supply, because i like to gaming in my computer i decided to buy recent most played titles (CSGO, Dota2, PUBG, etc..) but i had a problem, my GTX 750 could run those games but not at a framerate that i like to play, so i took the choice to buy a GTX 1060, also from Asus to minimize compatibility problems with my motherboard, after i installed it and started playing my favorite games i noticed that everytime i joined a match Asus Anti Surge protection triggered, so i started searching for answers on the internet, most of them said that was a PSU problem, since i know people here on Tom's Hardware are pretty serious helping others i decided to ask for your help.
Forgot to mention that i added x2 Other HyperX Fury 8Gb rams, and also i have my PC on almost 20 Hours a day

just because it says it is 500w, doesn't mean it can deliver.. what brand/model PSU do you have?
also try disconnecting all internal usb connections and check your usb ports for bent pins

 

[Princess Luna]

I like how you never stated what PSU it is.

[kb5zue]

since i know people here on Tom's Hardware are pretty serious.

 

First off, this is not Tom's Hardware, but back to the PSU problem.  You say that your PSU is rated for 500 watts.  That rating is 500 watts peak., not RMS.  The RMS rating of that psu is actually around 350 watts.  As such, I believe that you are trying to get your PSU to put out more power on a continuing basis than it is rated for.  You might want to seriously consider obtaining a newer, higher rated PSU, something around 650 RMS should be more than enough for your system.

[kb5zue]

Mean power, or root mean square (RMS) powerhandling, refers to how much continuous power the speaker can handle. ... For example, a speaker with a 30W RMS rating but a peak rating of 60W means that speaker can comfortably run with 30 watts of continuous power, with occasional bursts of up to 60W.

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=peak+power+vs+rms&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS765US765&oq=peak+power+&aqs=chrome.4.69i57j0l5.5320j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

[aisle9]

30 minutes ago, Evilevf said:

All of these components running under a 500W power supply

What brand and model? Are you using the required PCIe cable connector from the PSU to the graphics card? Not all 500W PSUs are created equal.

[aisle9]

17 minutes ago, kb5zue said:

You say that your PSU is rated for 500 watts.  That rating is 500 watts peak., not RMS.  The RMS rating of that psu is actually around 350 watts.  As such, I believe that you are trying to get your PSU to put out more power on a continuing basis than it is rated for. 

You can run a locked i5/1060 system on a 300W PSU without it ever breaking a sweat. I think a garbage-tier Logisys/Bestec/Diablotek/"Chinese Firecracker Factory 500W+ 80 GOL" unit is more likely the problem here.

[SupaKomputa]

It can be unstable electrical voltage which triggered something like thunderstorm.

the current from lightning strike fried 2 of my motherboard. At best lan port dead, at worst the whole motherboard died.

luckily today's motherboard has power surge protections. 

[Evilevf]

4 hours ago, Princess Cadence said:

I like how you never stated what PSU it is.

I supposed everybody on this site knows what it is... i mean... this is a TI forum lmao

[Evilevf]

4 hours ago, kb5zue said:

since i know people here on Tom's Hardware are pretty serious.

 

First off, this is not Tom's Hardware, but back to the PSU problem.  You say that your PSU is rated for 500 watts.  That rating is 500 watts peak., not RMS.  The RMS rating of that psu is actually around 350 watts.  As such, I believe that you are trying to get your PSU to put out more power on a continuing basis than it is rated for.  You might want to seriously consider obtaining a newer, higher rated PSU, something around 650 RMS should be more than enough for your system.

Sorry i just copy pasted my post on Tom's Hardware since i received no response there

[Evilevf]

5 hours ago, Changis said:

just because it says it is 500w, doesn't mean it can deliver.. what brand/model PSU do you have?
also try disconnecting all internal usb connections and check your usb ports for bent pins

 

I always used the PSU that came with the case, in specification tab says "Standard PS2 PSU (optional)".

http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002298
Already tried, also tried to disconnect everything optional but the graphics card.
 

[Evilevf]

4 hours ago, kb5zue said:

since i know people here on Tom's Hardware are pretty serious.

 

First off, this is not Tom's Hardware, but back to the PSU problem.  You say that your PSU is rated for 500 watts.  That rating is 500 watts peak., not RMS.  The RMS rating of that psu is actually around 350 watts.  As such, I believe that you are trying to get your PSU to put out more power on a continuing basis than it is rated for.  You might want to seriously consider obtaining a newer, higher rated PSU, something around 650 RMS should be more than enough for your system.

 

4 hours ago, kb5zue said:

Mean power, or root mean square (RMS) powerhandling, refers to how much continuous power the speaker can handle. ... For example, a speaker with a 30W RMS rating but a peak rating of 60W means that speaker can comfortably run with 30 watts of continuous power, with occasional bursts of up to 60W.

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=peak+power+vs+rms&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS765US765&oq=peak+power+&aqs=chrome.4.69i57j0l5.5320j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Thanks to both of you guys, i'm going to buy a new PSU tomorrow, probably a masterwatt lite 600w (Cooler Master), i was thinking on running a PSU only for the gtx 1060 and another one for the MoBo and another things.