vr Super-Compact Console-Size VR Rig (& Ultimate RGB Sync Solution!)

[Pecacheu]

EDIT:

Long story short, this post isn't really relevant anymore. The orignal project I was panning here has evolved into this:

 

IDK, here was my original planned build because why not...

 

Base Parts List:

$300  - Intel i7-7700K -- http://amazon.com/dp/B01MXSI216
$60    - ASRock H110M-ITX/AC -- http://amazon.com/dp/B01AVPBOFI
$125  - G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 16GB (Because why not?)
$50    - Logitech G410 Atlas RGB Keyboard (Tenkeyless, to match the "compact" theme of the build!)
$40    - RGB 120mm Fans, 3 Pack (These sure are cheap. Too cheap?) -- http://amazon.com/dp/B0748C844

$650  - GTX 1080 Ti Founders Edition Used

Edited November 7, 2017 by Pecacheu
Changing this post because the project in question has become something completly different.

[ItsTheDuckAgain]

To the best of my knowledge H100 will not let you overclock the 7700K. so loose the K or go for another chipset. (can be wrong here though since I am not into overclocking that much)

 

tubing will be a pain in the but in this build, hope you can make it work :-)

 

the fans look garbage to me, got no experience with fancy RGB fans though, corsair stuff gets picked a lot though, so maybe give them a go? there is a 3  pack from corsair with RGB stuff on em.

 

other thatn that, make a build log about it, I want to see it when done :-)

[W-L]

58 minutes ago, Pecacheu said:

-SNIP-

I would suggest to change the board if you planning on overclocking but would definitely suggest to not do a cheap loop like that. Your running the risk of a leak and ruining the components, not to mention the issues you will have with going subzero and condensation formation. There is also the matter of it being a mixed metal loop which is not recommended.

[Pecacheu]

Damn, no Mini-ITX DDR4 motherboards support overclocking, at least out of what I can find on amazon. I could try a pc parts site though.

 

As for the multiple metals thing, should I switch out to a copper radiator, or aluminum waterblocks?

[W-L]

1 minute ago, Pecacheu said:

Damn, no Mini-ITX DDR4 motherboards support overclocking, at least out of what I can find on amazon. I could try a pc parts site though.

 

As for the multiple metals thing, should I switch out to a copper radiator, or aluminum waterblocks?

For a loop all copper is ideal but that is just one of the things that need to be addressed, for the components you have selected doing a cheap loop like this isn't recommended for obvious reasons. You would get better cooling performance out of a 280mm AIO unit than the components selected for the loop since the lack of rad space.  

 

The peltier coolers might be able to help but your going subambient so you need to conformal coat your board and insulate it properly. 

[Pecacheu]

Should I buy an AIO and modify it with a GPU waterblock then? Would it work better if I wrap the PVC in insulation tape?

Also, the reason for using such a small radiator is the massively limited space inside. At 92mm, it will also fit vertically if there's not enough room to mount it horizontally. I figured since I'm getting 2 of them it should be good enough.

 

Anyway, I'm going to get to work on the case a bit more thoroughly in SketchUp, because currently I've only tested part fit in 2D using Illustrator.

[W-L]

2 hours ago, Pecacheu said:

Should I buy an AIO and modify it with a GPU waterblock then? Would it work better if I wrap the PVC in insulation tape?

Also, the reason for using such a small radiator is the massively limited space inside. At 92mm, it will also fit vertically if there's not enough room to mount it horizontally. I figured since I'm getting 2 of them it should be good enough.

 

Anyway, I'm going to get to work on the case a bit more thoroughly in SketchUp, because currently I've only tested part fit in 2D using Illustrator.

You can get a adapter to mount an AIO unit to a GPU and I would not modify it and just use it as is.

[Pecacheu]

I modeled some Corsair AIOs, and I should be able to fit an H60 pretty well, but only 1. The dual fan model is just too big. I just don't see how something with a smaller radiator and a weaker pump is supposed to outperform this ebay stuff, regardless of how "name-brand" it is.

 

I don't think leakage will be an issue, I've got plenty exotic clamps and fasteners. And of course I'll put it together and test it before installing into the PC.

I also found some fairly inexpensive pumps with better flow rates than the one I picked, although I remember seeing an LTT video that said flow rate isn't very important.

 

I could also mount the peltier and a heatsink directly to the CPU, but I've heard that is very bad for the CPU and can damage it.

[W-L]

47 minutes ago, Pecacheu said:

I modeled some Corsair AIOs, and I should be able to fit an H60 pretty well, but only 1. The dual fan model is just too big. I just don't see how something with a smaller radiator and a weaker pump is supposed to outperform this ebay stuff, regardless of how "name-brand" it is.

 

I don't think leakage will be an issue, I've got plenty exotic clamps and fasteners. And of course I'll put it together and test it before installing into the PC.

I also found some fairly inexpensive pumps with better flow rates than the one I picked, although I remember seeing an LTT video that said flow rate isn't very important.

 

I could also mount the peltier and a heatsink directly to the CPU, but I've heard that is very bad for the CPU and can damage it.

That depends are you doing a cold and hot loop if that is the case you would be better off doing something custom, and I really still don't recommend doing the politer cooling but if your using and AIO and peliter a single 120mm is not enough to keep 200w cool and silent. 

[Pecacheu]

Oh, I also thought of the idea of manufacturing some kind of quick-disconnect access to the cooling loop on the side of the case, so that way the peltier stuff could be in it's own separate box, and when it's disconnected it only has a small internal radiator with no peltier. It would of course need an internal solenoid that can be activated when not connected, so that the loop is still completed.

 

I'm not sure if this is a good idea, but I'll try modeling it. I guess it's sort of inspired by the LTT video where they use copper tubes to connect the cooling loop of all of the PCs in the office to a massive outdoor radiator.

 

Oh, plus since the non-K CPU I'll have to get will come with a stock heatsink, do you think sticking that on top of the waterblock would help cooling at all? Or are waterblocks cool to the touch on top anyway?

[Pecacheu]

Okay, I've been making the case way more complex then it was going to be before, because I've decided to launch a KickStarter! So I got together a small team, we prototyped some water-cooling loops, I did some thermal tests (I have a bit of a home laboratory setup with some scientific measurement stuff), prototyped some PCBs, and we made some 3D renders!

Seriously, they're really cool. The cases will come in both black and white, and they're even going to be available as pre-built VR-ready systems starting at under $900!

 

More info here: