ek pump and res buzzing

[Leonard]

1 minute ago, HDshiny said:

 

Yep that is the pump. you won't be able to fix it and if you try it will make you hate water cooling because you will be realigning the impeller almost every day. RMA it.

[HDshiny]

Just now, Leonard said:

Yep that is the pump. you won't be able to fix it and if you try it will make you hate water cooling because you will be realigning the impeller almost every day. RMA it.

RMA it ? 

[Leonard]

2 minutes ago, HDshiny said:

RMA it ? 

RMA  means to send it back to the place of purchase or the company who sell the component for either fixing or a new one, this only applies to your specific type of warranty given by the company or seller.

 

Advice...

DO NOT take a refurbished or any offer to refurbish the pump as it will work for a bit then go back to making the stupid noise. Let them know you want a new one or your money back.

[HDshiny]

14 minutes ago, Leonard said:

RMA  means to send it back to the place of purchase or the company who sell the component for either fixing or a new one, this only applies to your specific type of warranty given by the company or seller.

 

Advice...

DO NOT take a refurbished or any offer to refurbish the pump as it will work for a bit then go back to making the stupid noise. Let them know you want a new one or your money back.

bought it new so why this is happening i have no idea. never bought anything refurbished and never will haha iv sent a email to ek not its just a waiting game  

[Leonard]

Just now, HDshiny said:

bought it new so why this is happening i have no idea. never bought anything refurbished and never will haha iv sent a email to ek not its just a waiting game  

You are not supposed to know why this is happening, you are just the customer and i doubt you do system builds for people. This is like the 5th centrifugal pump that i have heard this from one of which was my personal Barrow D5 pump and others were from customers with EK and one swiftech.

 

There are times you buy a new item and it is defective so don't feel they are out to get you and that is how you grade a company, the less issues the better the company. 

 

Don't quote me on the following i cannot remember where i saw this posted..... in EK's defense this is something with their new line of pumps and i saw somewhere they rectified the issue with the pumps what they didn't say is if the recalled the problematic ones.

[HDshiny]

1 minute ago, Leonard said:

You are not supposed to know why this is happening, you are just the customer and i doubt you do system builds for people. This is like the 5th centrifugal pump that i have heard this from one of which was my personal Barrow D5 pump and others were from customers with EK and one swiftech.

 

There are times you buy a new item and it is defective so don't feel they are out to get you and that is how you grade a company, the less issues the better the company. 

 

Don't quote me on the following i cannot remember where i saw this posted..... in EK's defense this is something with their new line of pumps and i saw somewhere they rectified the issue with the pumps what they didn't say is if the recalled the problematic ones.

iv asked for a replacement so hopefully they send one and i dont have to take the whole kit apart and send it back haha 

[HDshiny]

6 hours ago, Leonard said:

Yep that is the pump. you won't be able to fix it and if you try it will make you hate water cooling because you will be realigning the impeller almost every day. RMA it.

how can i fix it if ek refuse to replace it ?

[Leonard]

2 hours ago, HDshiny said:

how can i fix it if ek refuse to replace it ?

They shouldn't refuse to exchange it because it is new and i am sure you can produce proof of purchase. You will not be able to do it because you do not have the PCB(printed circuit board) to change out the faulty one.

 

you never answered me, do you have or have had any lightning, power failure, or surges where you live?....these things can cause this to happen however the D5 pump is a very robust pump. Your PC should be connected to a line conditioner if you do not have "clean" current which no one does really.  

[HDshiny]

i live in the uk and where i live has very little power cuts less than one a year. but could that be a problem ?

[Foxxer]

EK supplies 2 sound / vibrations pads just so you know. 

 

And please move that hard drive from connectors, you never know when fittings leak.

[HDshiny]

1 hour ago, Foxxer said:

EK supplies 2 sound / vibrations pads just so you know. 

 

And please move that hard drive from connectors, you never know when fittings leak.

Haha living life on the edge

 

[AV Techy]

Wow okay, I really hope you read this before doing an RMA. I literally have the same setup as you. I had the exact same problem and fixed it while still being able to use the Phanteks splitter. Check this LTT forum thread and you will find the answer:

 

Essentially the answer is that not all 4-pin fan headers are PWM. They have voltage control but no PWM signal pin. The Pump needs a true PWM fan header.

 

Check your Motherboard manual to see which fan headers have a true PWM signal (Speed control signal), and which has an NC connector (currently I'm under the assumption it stands for Not Connected). It's the NC pin which is preventing you from gaining PWM control. Image above is from a motherboard manual.

 

So to fix this you either:

Need to check the motherboard manual to see if you have got 2 true PWM fan headers. Connect your Pump to one and the Phanteks fan splitter to the other.

 

or if you only have 1 true PWM fan header, don't sweat it,

 

You need to get a fan head Y-splitter (costs around £10), plug that into your CPU fan header, essentially turning your 1 CPU fan header into 2.  4-pin Y-splitters split into two different connectors, one will be a 4-pin and the other will be a 3-pin. You need to plug your Pump connector which has a 2 pins (one of which is PWM, and the other a Sense) into the 4-pin on the Y-splitter. And then plug the other end of the Y-splitter (the 3-pin) into the Phanteks fan splitter.

Your motherboard will then use the Pump as the voltage regulator for the Phanteks fan splitter. Thus you can then have true control of your pump.

 

So that will fix your issue, please let this thread know if it all works out!

[HDshiny]

On 6/9/2017 at 2:04 PM, Aloe Vera said:

Wow okay, I really hope you read this before doing an RMA. I literally have the same setup as you. I had the exact same problem and fixed it while still being able to use the Phanteks splitter. Check this LTT forum thread and you will find the answer:

 

Essentially the answer is that not all 4-pin fan headers are PWM. They have voltage control but no PWM signal pin. The Pump needs a true PWM fan header.

 

Check your Motherboard manual to see which fan headers have a true PWM signal (Speed control signal), and which has an NC connector (currently I'm under the assumption it stands for Not Connected). It's the NC pin which is preventing you from gaining PWM control. Image above is from a motherboard manual.

 

So to fix this you either:

Need to check the motherboard manual to see if you have got 2 true PWM fan headers. Connect your Pump to one and the Phanteks fan splitter to the other.

 

or if you only have 1 true PWM fan header, don't sweat it,

 

You need to get a fan head Y-splitter (costs around £10), plug that into your CPU fan header, essentially turning your 1 CPU fan header into 2.  4-pin Y-splitters split into two different connectors, one will be a 4-pin and the other will be a 3-pin. You need to plug your Pump connector which has a 2 pins (one of which is PWM, and the other a Sense) into the 4-pin on the Y-splitter. And then plug the other end of the Y-splitter (the 3-pin) into the Phanteks fan splitter.

Your motherboard will then use the Pump as the voltage regulator for the Phanteks fan splitter. Thus you can then have true control of your pump.

 

So that will fix your issue, please let this thread know if it all works out!

the noise is not coming from the fan its coming from the pump.when i take the cable out for the fan the noise is still there 

[AV Techy]

3 hours ago, HDshiny said:

the noise is not coming from the fan its coming from the pump.when i take the cable out for the fan the noise is still there 

I'm going to guess you didn't check out the LLT Thread I posted titled "PWM Pump constantly runs at 4800rpm..." - Literally the same issue you have, you seem to have been confused by my mentioning of fan headers a lot - just to confirm in case you weren't aware, the Pump gets plugged into Fan Headers on the motherboard for PWM control. Your issue is that your Pump is not being plugged into a "true PWM" fan header, it's likely being plugged into a 4-Pin fan header with the NC pin instead of the "Speed Control Signal" pin.

 

You've likely plugged into one of the SYSFAN headers which on many boards are not true PWM headers. You are guaranteed that if you plug it directly into the CPU fan header you will gain full PWM control, then you'll be able to actively control the pump. If a Pump doesn't get a true PWM signal it will run at 100%, you can test this by unplugging it from the motherboard entirely and it will run at 100%. However you also have the problem of the fan splitter needing a true PWM header as well, hence you will need the fan head splitter cable.

 

If you want to fix this an RMA won't do it, you need to put the effort into reading the forum thread I provided or following the basic guide I laid out. You need to understand the variety of Fan Headers on your motherboard (look at your motherboard manual). The RMA is the easy and simple way to blame the manufacturer over yourself for not understanding what you've purchased and how it works, for water cooling to really work you have to be open to learning more about your system. If you RMA the pump you'll get a replacement that will act in the same way your current one does as it isn't getting the crucial "Speed Control Signal" pin to give it the instructions to run slower. Currently your giving it a "Not Connected" pin, so without that instruction it will run at 100% for the safety of your system. Or you can simply buy a £10 4-pin fan header splitter and follow the instructions I provided.

 

I don't want to come across irritated or harsh, but when I have had the same problem and I've put the effort into understanding how it all works and what the real problem is, and I am trying my absolute best to provide a clear guide of how to fix it for just £10. And providing the source to the solution of the problem (which is identical to your problem as you've described it). On top of the fact that I've implemented and fixed the pump running at MAX RPM problem, I can't help but think your just running with a load of peoples comments that blame the manufacturer when nobody is discussing how the Pump works - suspicious? That would leave me to believe that nobody else knows how the Pump interacts with the motherboard.

 

I can't belive I'm going to plead, but please, please understand what fan headers are on your motherboard, please plug your pump into the CPUFAN header and then create a custom PWM fan curve in the BIOS. If you fail to try that before an RMA then I suppose your going to deserve an RMA cycle loop. I'd love it if EKWB wrote this into their installation manual...

 

 

P.S. Sorry for the rant...

[HDshiny]

1 hour ago, Aloe Vera said:

I'm going to guess you didn't check out the LLT Thread I posted titled "PWM Pump constantly runs at 4800rpm..." - Literally the same issue you have, you seem to have been confused by my mentioning of fan headers a lot - just to confirm in case you weren't aware, the Pump gets plugged into Fan Headers on the motherboard for PWM control. Your issue is that your Pump is not being plugged into a "true PWM" fan header, it's likely being plugged into a 4-Pin fan header with the NC pin instead of the "Speed Control Signal" pin.

 

You've likely plugged into one of the SYSFAN headers which on many boards are not true PWM headers. You are guaranteed that if you plug it directly into the CPU fan header you will gain full PWM control, then you'll be able to actively control the pump. If a Pump doesn't get a true PWM signal it will run at 100%, you can test this by unplugging it from the motherboard entirely and it will run at 100%. However you also have the problem of the fan splitter needing a true PWM header as well, hence you will need the fan head splitter cable.

 

If you want to fix this an RMA won't do it, you need to put the effort into reading the forum thread I provided or following the basic guide I laid out. You need to understand the variety of Fan Headers on your motherboard (look at your motherboard manual). The RMA is the easy and simple way to blame the manufacturer over yourself for not understanding what you've purchased and how it works, for water cooling to really work you have to be open to learning more about your system. If you RMA the pump you'll get a replacement that will act in the same way your current one does as it isn't getting the crucial "Speed Control Signal" pin to give it the instructions to run slower. Currently your giving it a "Not Connected" pin, so without that instruction it will run at 100% for the safety of your system. Or you can simply buy a £10 4-pin fan header splitter and follow the instructions I provided.

 

I don't want to come across irritated or harsh, but when I have had the same problem and I've put the effort into understanding how it all works and what the real problem is, and I am trying my absolute best to provide a clear guide of how to fix it for just £10. And providing the source to the solution of the problem (which is identical to your problem as you've described it). On top of the fact that I've implemented and fixed the pump running at MAX RPM problem, I can't help but think your just running with a load of peoples comments that blame the manufacturer when nobody is discussing how the Pump works - suspicious? That would leave me to believe that nobody else knows how the Pump interacts with the motherboard.

 

I can't belive I'm going to plead, but please, please understand what fan headers are on your motherboard, please plug your pump into the CPUFAN header and then create a custom PWM fan curve in the BIOS. If you fail to try that before an RMA then I suppose your going to deserve an RMA cycle loop. I'd love it if EKWB wrote this into their installation manual...

 

 

P.S. Sorry for the rant...

so my problem isn't what i thought even tho when my fans are not plugged in it still makes a very loud noise even though it only goes when i disconnected the molex connector?  

[AV Techy]

6 hours ago, HDshiny said:

so my problem isn't what i thought even tho when my fans are not plugged in it still makes a very loud noise even though it only goes when i disconnected the molex connector?  

The molex connector is for power only (hence why it connects directly to the Power Supply Unit). It's the same as unplugging your fridge from the wall, it will just stop working.

 

Your problem is that you're plugging the other wire (4-pin) into the wrong fan header. The Fan Header is what provides the speed control instructions to the pump from the motherboard. Your motherboard takes temperature data from your CPU sensors and instructs your fans (or pump in this case) o run faster or slower accordingly. Put the effort into understanding this, it is very simple when it's broken down like this.

 

I'm more than happy to help you understand this, but you need to be open to learning how this works. If you don't understand your system, you won't understand the problem and hence you won't understand what the solution is...

[HDshiny]

2 hours ago, Aloe Vera said:

The molex connector is for power only (hence why it connects directly to the Power Supply Unit). It's the same as unplugging your fridge from the wall, it will just stop working.

 

Your problem is that you're plugging the other wire (4-pin) into the wrong fan header. The Fan Header is what provides the speed control instructions to the pump from the motherboard. Your motherboard takes temperature data from your CPU sensors and instructs your fans (or pump in this case) o run faster or slower accordingly. Put the effort into understanding this, it is very simple when it's broken down like this.

 

I'm more than happy to help you understand this, but you need to be open to learning how this works. If you don't understand your system, you won't understand the problem and hence you won't understand what the solution is...

So iv done this and it's now making this noise 

 

[AV Techy]

5 minutes ago, HDshiny said:

So iv done this and it's now making this noise 

 

Done what? I've given you two options...

 

I feel I'm putting more effort into trying to help you fix your problem than you are.

 

When I write a few hundred words with fairly detailed explanations to the problem and the solution, you should be replying with as much detail as you can. Rather than one sentence with little value to solving the problem.

 

I can't understand how I've had the same problem as you and managed to solve it in under 24 hours, and we're barely getting to understanding the problem here.

 

Please respond with exactly what you've done to troubleshoot the problem so far and your findings during these troubleshooting steps. Only then can we make sure we're going down the right path to solve the problem.

 

I'm sure my suggestions are correct but we may as well go through this thoroughly.

[HDshiny]

12 minutes ago, Aloe Vera said:

Done what? I've given you two options...

 

I feel I'm putting more effort into trying to help you fix your problem than you are.

 

When I write a few hundred words with fairly detailed explanations to the problem and the solution, you should be replying with as much detail as you can. Rather than one sentence with little value to solving the problem.

 

I can't understand how I've had the same problem as you and managed to solve it in under 24 hours, and we're barely getting to understanding the problem here.

 

Please respond with exactly what you've done to troubleshoot the problem so far and your findings during these troubleshooting steps. Only then can we make sure we're going down the right path to solve the problem.

 

I'm sure my suggestions are correct but we may as well go through this thoroughly.

I have plugged it into the cpu pwn and its still making a Very loud noise 

[AV Techy]

5 minutes ago, HDshiny said:

I have plugged it into the cpu pwn and its still making a Very loud noise 

So the pump alone is plugged into the CPU fan header and with a custom CPU fan curve it's still making noise.

 

Can you post an image of your bios fan curve, and can you also tell me the name of your motherboard?

[HDshiny]

11 minutes ago, Aloe Vera said:

So the pump alone is plugged into the CPU fan header and with a custom CPU fan curve it's still making noise.

 

Can you post an image of your bios fan curve, and can you also tell me the name of your motherboard?

That's my fan curve and my motherboard is a Gigabyte H81M-S2H Micro ATX Motherboard

[AV Techy]

25 minutes ago, HDshiny said:

That's my fan curve and my motherboard is a Gigabyte H81M-S2H Micro ATX Motherboard

Excellent, so you have 2 fan headers that are both PWM compliant. So we can rule out the issue of the NC connector.

 

Have you tried setting the fan curve in the BIOS, Speedfan can be difficult to configure correctly. Gigabyte have set up a good fan curve BIOS control, use that instead of the software. And on the point of fan curves, I would setup so that your running at 100% speed at 75-80 degrees for a quieter system. And you can have it running at 20% up until around 40 degrees to keep it quiet under general use.

 

But you need to try the BIOS fan curve to rule out the issue with Speedfan. Please post a photo of your BIOS fan curve when your done setting it up and let me know if anything has changed.

[HDshiny]

22 minutes ago, Aloe Vera said:

Excellent, so you have 2 fan headers that are both PWM compliant. So we can rule out the issue of the NC connector.

 

Have you tried setting the fan curve in the BIOS, Speedfan can be difficult to configure correctly. Gigabyte have set up a good fan curve BIOS control, use that instead of the software. And on the point of fan curves, I would setup so that your running at 100% speed at 75-80 degrees for a quieter system. And you can have it running at 20% up until around 40 degrees to keep it quiet under general use.

 

But you need to try the BIOS fan curve to rule out the issue with Speedfan. Please post a photo of your BIOS fan curve when your done setting it up and let me know if anything has changed.

How do I set it up in my bios? 

[AV Techy]

When you boot up your PC you'll have a splash screen that will most likely show a Gigabyte background. There should be text at the bottom prompting you to hit one of the F-number keys. Once you've worked that out you will be dropped into the UEFI BIOS, it's pretty self explanatory when you get there so with a little searching around you will be able to find the fan curve profile tool (I think they call it EasyTune.

 

There you will be able to set up the profile, keep the speed up to 40 degrees below 30% and make sure you gradually ramp the speed up to 100% at 90 degrees.

 

You will have to setup CPU FAN and SYS FAN separately, you can make them the same as each other though

 

Once you've done that you can click on save & exit and your computer will restart as usual. You should experience your pump and fans ramping up as the temperatures increase. Just to make sure, don't have the pump plugged into the fan splitter. Let me know how it goes.

[HDshiny]

50 minutes ago, Aloe Vera said:

When you boot up your PC you'll have a splash screen that will most likely show a Gigabyte background. There should be text at the bottom prompting you to hit one of the F-number keys. Once you've worked that out you will be dropped into the UEFI BIOS, it's pretty self explanatory when you get there so with a little searching around you will be able to find the fan curve profile tool (I think they call it EasyTune.

 

There you will be able to set up the profile, keep the speed up to 40 degrees below 30% and make sure you gradually ramp the speed up to 100% at 90 degrees.

 

You will have to setup CPU FAN and SYS FAN separately, you can make them the same as each other though

 

Once you've done that you can click on save & exit and your computer will restart as usual. You should experience your pump and fans ramping up as the temperatures increase. Just to make sure, don't have the pump plugged into the fan splitter. Let me know how it goes.

So iv go to the speed controll bit and it just shows this and then a setting that says. Normal. Silent. Manual (which is what is shown in the picture) and full. I'm not sure what to be messing around with realistically. There's no other options for speed controll apart from system and cpu