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Washing my pc

I just got a new case yesterday (p400 glass) and I am planning to move all my old pc parts over to the case. However the psu and graphics card are very dusty. I have been cleaning it using a compressor but I didn't do it in the beginning and the dust is stuck. How can i wash it off? Does regular cloth or microfibercloth work and if not what does?

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Microfiber cloth is good to clean off dust, but there should be some better options as others will post to this 

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I would not use microfiber clothes, very static-y. I use anti esd brushes   I bought a set of like 5 for 10$ on Amazon. 

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3 minutes ago, bgibbz said:

I would not use microfiber clothes, very static-y. I use anti esd brushes   I bought a set of like 5 for 10$ on Amazon. 

Not to mention solder points create sharp areas that catch the fabric and rip it, leaving nice little bits of that stuff that you'd have to pluck off manually.

 

(the word is also staticky :P )

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As said by @bgibbz, ESD brushes are a must. Also, spend the Kroner and buy some compressed air cans. Grab a few because you're going to burn through the first can pretty fast. Compressors generate static electricity and, due to the way their compressor engine works, will aerosolize lubricant into the air stream, which adhere to your components and collect more dust, or become electrically conductive and will short your parts. 

 

Technically speaking, you can wash your components with distilled water, as it is very non-conductive (but not perfectly), however you would then need to wait for several days or weeks and let the parts dry out to make sure the water doesn't get trapped, become conductive as it accumulates electrolytes and ions, and cause a short. That's a big risk, but it can be done. Obviously, cleaning your power supply with water is insane as there are far too many nooks and crannies where the water would become trapped. For that, unplug it, take off the top cover, do NOT touch any of the components or leads with your bare hands (the largest black cylinders are high-voltage capacitors and could kill you), put on gloves, and waste your compressed air cans and ESD brushes getting the garbage out. 

 

After you've cleaned your components, clean your fans, then buy some high-end micro-filters. If you can't find those, fashion some out of black women's pantyhose or leggings and clean them regularly. The dust is accumulating because of oils in the air. Those oils are typically from cigarette smoke, candles, pet skin and hair, dirt, and generally large particulates which a filter would stop in the first place. 

 

When I run my rig with every intake filtered after a few months I get a very light accumulation of dust. It's always uniform and light, like moon dust. It can be easily blown away with canned air. 

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thoroughly rinse all components under running water, let dry before re-assembly

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Vigilo Confido

 

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3 minutes ago, Nicnac said:

thoroughly rinse all components under running water, let dry before re-assembly

@Nicnac Spinnsta oda was?

 

Do NOT do this. The water coming from the tap always contains trace minerals and metals picked up from the pipes and added by the water companies as part of the cleaning process, all of which are left when the the water dries. Not only will it leave an unsightly film on your components, but that film could literally bridge components and short them. This is literally the last thing you would want to do.  

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8 minutes ago, Tiberiusisgame said:

@Nicnac Spinnsta oda was?

 

Do NOT do this. The water coming from the tap always contains trace minerals and metals picked up from the pipes and added by the water companies as part of the cleaning process, all of which are left when the the water dries. Not only will it leave an unsightly film on your components, but that film could literally bridge components and short them. This is literally the last thing you would want to do.  

I was joking bruh! forgot the /s I guess... :P 

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5 minutes ago, Nicnac said:

I was joking bruh! forgot the /s I guess..

Gott sei dank.

 

I've never used the /s tag. I lost my humor after my 2nd power supply failure. ;-)

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21 hours ago, Tiberiusisgame said:

@Nicnac Spinnsta oda was?

 

Do NOT do this. The water coming from the tap always contains trace minerals and metals picked up from the pipes and added by the water companies as part of the cleaning process, all of which are left when the the water dries. Not only will it leave an unsightly film on your components, but that film could literally bridge components and short them. This is literally the last thing you would want to do.  

*for science only, DO NOT TRY THIS*

 

Based on this logic, would distilled water be good for cleaning your components? (obviously not dunking an entire GPU in it, but using it as your wipe down agent)

 

Also I personally bought the DataVac 500 (it was only $60 when I bought it) and its way better than compressed air. 

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On ‎5‎/‎10‎/‎2017 at 11:12 AM, Nicnac said:

thoroughly rinse all components under running water, let dry before re-assembly

You forgot to mention the coat of Turtle Wax!  The glass panels on the new case should also be given a Rain-X treatment in case the roof breaks and it rains inside the house.

 

Dust inside the PSU and other parts should be carefully cleaned out with compressed air.  And although it's best to use electronics safe cleaners, dust and dirt on the outside of the parts can actually be wiped down with a lightly damp, lint-free cloth if you avoid the electronics.

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Just keep all the components in a sink or a bathtub and wash them, make sure to wash every component individually to prevent possible damage caused by static electricity.

 

P.S. pay extra attention to the PSU, always double check that it is 100% dry before plugging it in; it doesn't like to be wet that much.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Of course I'm joking, the last thing i want is for someone to ruin a perfectly good bathtub with dust from their PC.

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I use a Metrovac (like the one @TVwazhere linked above) and some detail brushes to get the persistent stuff off the little nooks an crannies. Smooth surfaces can be clean using a microfiber cloth (I like to use Kimwipes) moistened with a bit of isopropyl alcohol. The Metrovac is great, way higher pressure than any canned air, doesn't lose pressure as it gets cold from being used, and you never have to buy crazy expensive cans ever again, plus environmentally it's way better.

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Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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5 hours ago, TVwazhere said:

*for science only, DO NOT TRY THIS*

 

Based on this logic, would distilled water be good for cleaning your components? (obviously not dunking an entire GPU in it, but using it as your wipe down agent)

 

Also I personally bought the DataVac 500 (it was only $60 when I bought it) and its way better than compressed air. 

Don't use water. Your best bet is 90+% isopropyl alcohol or absolute ethanol. It will clean better than just water (water alone won't dissolve oils, alcohol will) and evaporate quickly leaving a much lower risk of a short and less wait time.

Primary PC-

CPU: Intel i7-6800k @ 4.2-4.4Ghz   CPU COOLER: Bequiet Dark Rock Pro 4   MOBO: MSI X99A SLI Plus   RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX quad-channel DDR4-2800  GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 iCX   PSU: Corsair RM1000i   CASE: Corsair 750D Obsidian   SSDs: 500GB Samsung 960 Evo + 256GB Samsung 850 Pro   HDDs: Toshiba 3TB + Seagate 1TB   Monitors: Acer Predator XB271HUC 27" 2560x1440 (165Hz G-Sync)  +  LG 29UM57 29" 2560x1080   OS: Windows 10 Pro

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Laptop-

CPU: Intel i7-3520M   Model: Dell Latitude E6530   RAM: 8GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Nvidia NVS 5200M   SSD: 240GB TeamGroup L5   HDD: WD Black 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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Just now, pyrojoe34 said:

Don't use water. Your best bet is 90+% isopropyl alcohol it will clean better than just water (water alone won't dissolve oils, alcohol will) and evaporate quickly leaving a much lower risk of a short and less wait time.

Interesting. Obviously I wasnt about to start dumping distilled water onto everything, just wondering if not having minerals would allow it to be cleaned in a safer maner than, for example 98% alcohol. 

 

Erimean damn I was hoping to do a distilled water build like a mineral oil build

kappa.png

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Make sure to Quote posts or tag the person with @[username] so they know you responded to them!

 RGB Build Post 2019 --- Rainbow 🦆 2020 --- Velka 5 V2.0 Build 2021

Purple Build Post ---  Blue Build Post --- Blue Build Post 2018 --- Project ITNOS

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12 minutes ago, TVwazhere said:

Interesting. Obviously I wasnt about to start dumping distilled water onto everything, just wondering if not having minerals would allow it to be cleaned in a safer maner than, for example 98% alcohol. 

 

Erimean damn I was hoping to do a distilled water build like a mineral oil build

kappa.png

Still won't work. Even the purest of water (like nanopure/MilliQ water which is orders of magnitude more pure than distilled water) is only theoretically non-conductive. Realistically though, it is still conductive and cannot be used safely. Not only will CO2 from the air instantly start dissolving into the water forming carbonic acid (which will ionize), but some H2O molecules will spontaneously dissociate into OH- and H3O+ which are charged ions and will conduct electricity. There's just no way to use water without isolating all electrical pathways/conductors from the water.

Primary PC-

CPU: Intel i7-6800k @ 4.2-4.4Ghz   CPU COOLER: Bequiet Dark Rock Pro 4   MOBO: MSI X99A SLI Plus   RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX quad-channel DDR4-2800  GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 iCX   PSU: Corsair RM1000i   CASE: Corsair 750D Obsidian   SSDs: 500GB Samsung 960 Evo + 256GB Samsung 850 Pro   HDDs: Toshiba 3TB + Seagate 1TB   Monitors: Acer Predator XB271HUC 27" 2560x1440 (165Hz G-Sync)  +  LG 29UM57 29" 2560x1080   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Album

Other Systems:

Spoiler

Home HTPC/NAS-

CPU: AMD FX-8320 @ 4.4Ghz  MOBO: Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3   RAM: 16GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Gigabyte GTX 760 OC   PSU: Rosewill 750W   CASE: Antec Gaming One   SSD: 120GB PNY CS1311   HDDs: WD Red 3TB + WD 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200 -or- Steam Link to Vizio M43C1 43" 4K TV  OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Offsite NAS/VM Server-

CPU: 2x Xeon E5645 (12-core)  Model: Dell PowerEdge T610  RAM: 16GB DDR3-1333  PSUs: 2x 570W  SSDs: 8GB Kingston Boot FD + 32GB Sandisk Cache SSD   HDDs: WD Red 4TB + Seagate 2TB + Seagate 320GB   OS: FreeNAS 11+

 

Laptop-

CPU: Intel i7-3520M   Model: Dell Latitude E6530   RAM: 8GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Nvidia NVS 5200M   SSD: 240GB TeamGroup L5   HDD: WD Black 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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22 minutes ago, pyrojoe34 said:

Still won't work. Even the purest of water (like nanopure/MilliQ water which is orders of magnitude more pure than distilled water) is only theoretically non-conductive. Realistically though, it is still conductive and cannot be used safely. Not only will CO2 from the air instantly start dissolving into the water forming carbonic acid (which will ionize), but some H2O molecules will spontaneously dissociate into OH- and H3O+ which are charged ions and will conduct electricity. There's just no way to use water without isolating all electrical pathways/conductors from the water.

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"Put as much effort into your question as you'd expect someone to give in an answer"- @Princess Luna

Make sure to Quote posts or tag the person with @[username] so they know you responded to them!

 RGB Build Post 2019 --- Rainbow 🦆 2020 --- Velka 5 V2.0 Build 2021

Purple Build Post ---  Blue Build Post --- Blue Build Post 2018 --- Project ITNOS

CPU i7-4790k    Motherboard Gigabyte Z97N-WIFI    RAM G.Skill Sniper DDR3 1866mhz    GPU EVGA GTX1080Ti FTW3    Case Corsair 380T   

Storage Samsung EVO 250GB, Samsung EVO 1TB, WD Black 3TB, WD Black 5TB    PSU Corsair CX750M    Cooling Cryorig H7 with NF-A12x25

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