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Are these legit?

Gershy13

Manufacturer's warranty also ensures that if something does go wrong (barring physical damage such as you dropped your camera), you can get it repaired for free or they will have to replace it, as long as it is within the warranty period.

 

E.g. Buying the (generally more expensive) official camera batteries vs. buying third party ones.  If the official ones are faulty and damages your camera, the camera manufacturer will have to repair the camera for free or replace it.  They don't cover damages caused by third party batteries.

true. thanks. ill get it from Wex which is legit.

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true. thanks. ill get it from Wex which is legit.

 

There are other areas where you can recover the extra cash spent in buying from an official retailer than buying a grey market product.  But lenses, camera bodies and batteries should not be where you try to bargain hunt every time unless you are buying second hand.

 

(Note: You can buy third party lenses such as Sigma, Tokina, Tamron, etc. fine.  But if you want a (e.g. Canon lens for your Canon body), legit is better than grey market just for the sake of warranty.)

 

You can save money in these areas:

  • Camera wired/wireless remote shutter release, no need to buy the expensive official ones when the cheaper ebay ones can be just as good.
  • Speedlights, you can buy third party Nissin, Yongnuo, Metz which tend to be cheaper.
  • Tripod accessories, like quick release plates.  E.g. branded Arca-Swiss quick release plates can be expensive, I can get ones I need on eBay for around 25% of the price.
  • Lens cleaning micro fiber cloths, get them from your local optical eye-wear stores.  Electronics stores will try to sell you lens cleaning cloths for $5 each, optical stores may give them to you for free or $1 each.  The spray on cleaning solution for your eye glasses will be more than suitable for cleaning your lens, and perhaps if you buy one bottle your optical store offers free refills, at least they do where I live.
  • Camera straps (if the ones that come with the camera break), do you really need ones that say in big letters Canon, Sony or Nikon?  It's like putting up a neon sign saying "Everyone look, I'm a target for mugging because I have an expensive camera!".

FYI, when I travel my cameras are usually covered in pieces of duct tape, camouflaging them to look old.  I've actually had people ask me why I'm using an old piece of equipment and not buy something new.

 

Here is a good guide that will teach you what to check when buying second hand camera gear.

https://photographylife.com/how-to-buy-used-dslr-cameras

Guide: DSLR or Video camera?, Guide: Film/Photo makers' useful resources, Guide: Lenses, a quick primer

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it is a fair bit more... at £20 

20 euro is nothing

You know youll be getting a new, covered lens from the maker itself.

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There are other areas where you can recover the extra cash spent in buying from an official retailer than buying a grey market product.  But lenses, camera bodies and batteries should not be where you try to bargain hunt every time unless you are buying second hand.

 

(Note: You can buy third party lenses such as Sigma, Tokina, Tamron, etc. fine.  But if you want a (e.g. Canon lens for your Canon body), legit is better than grey market just for the sake of warranty.)

 

You can save money in these areas:

  • Camera wired/wireless remote shutter release, no need to buy the expensive official ones when the cheaper ebay ones can be just as good.
  • Speedlights, you can buy third party Nissin, Yongnuo, Metz which tend to be cheaper.
  • Tripod accessories, like quick release plates.  E.g. branded Arca-Swiss quick release plates can be expensive, I can get ones I need on eBay for around 25% of the price.
  • Lens cleaning micro fiber cloths, get them from your local optical eye-wear stores.  Electronics stores will try to sell you lens cleaning cloths for $5 each, optical stores may give them to you for free or $1 each.  The spray on cleaning solution for your eye glasses will be more than suitable for cleaning your lens, and perhaps if you buy one bottle your optical store offers free refills, at least they do where I live.
  • Camera straps (if the ones that come with the camera break), do you really need ones that say in big letters Canon, Sony or Nikon?  It's like putting up a neon sign saying "Everyone look, I'm a target for mugging because I have an expensive camera!".

FYI, when I travel my cameras are usually covered in pieces of duct tape, camouflaging them to look old.  I've actually had people ask me why I'm using an old piece of equipment and not buy something new.

 

Here is a good guide that will teach you what to check when buying second hand camera gear.

https://photographylife.com/how-to-buy-used-dslr-cameras

Thanks.

Just a question, the eyepeice on my camera is falling off, what would you recommend doing?

Also, will that cleaning spray be alright to clean my phone screen? (ill spray it on a cloth and wipe the top of the screen protector.)

You said to get a cheap filter? Which UV filter would you recommend just to protect the front element of this 50mm? preferably under £5

 

 

20 euro is nothing

You know youll be getting a new, covered lens from the maker itself.

thanks. im gonna do that, i might as well spend a bit more on the lens, just to be safe.

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Thanks.

Just a question, the eyepeice on my camera is falling off, what would you recommend doing?

Also, will that cleaning spray be alright to clean my phone screen? (ill spray it on a cloth and wipe the top of the screen protector.)

You said to get a cheap filter? Which UV filter would you recommend just to protect the front element of this 50mm? preferably under £5

 

 

thanks. im gonna do that, i might as well spend a bit more on the lens, just to be safe.

 

Filters: If you are looking for a protective filter that you will keep on the lens even when taking photos, buy the best money can buy.  But if you plan to unscrew it before every photo shoot and only put it back on after... buy whatever works.  I don't skimp out on filters as I keep then on most of the time.

 

Yeah eyeglass cleaning solution should be able to handle smudges, finger prints, oily residue, however pharmaceutical alcohol or even window cleaner is better for removing heavier residue off your phone screen.

 

Eye piece, can you post a photo the condition it is in?  I'm fairly certain you can get a cheap knockoff on eBay. As long as you are talking about something removable like this.

1016615.jpg

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Filters: If you are looking for a protective filter that you will keep on the lens even when taking photos, buy the best money can buy.  But if you play to unscrew it before every photo shoot and only put it back on after... buy whatever works.  I don't skimp out on filters as I keep then on most of the time.

 

Yeah eyeglass cleaning solution should be able to handle smudges, finger prints, oily residue, however pharmaceutical alcohol or even window cleaner is better for removing heavier residue off your phone screen.

 

Eye piece, can you post a photo the condition it is in?  I'm fairly certain you can get a cheap knockoff on eBay. As long as you are talking about something removable like this.

1016615.jpg

Yup, thats the eyepeice, is it worth buying another one? will it just do the same? It looks fine, not banged up or anything, its just loose.

 

I am gonna keep the filter on the lens, would you recommend the polaroid 49mm UV? its £5 in amazon, and a bit more than i expected to pay for a filter, but it should be ok.

I dont wanna spend too much on one, i just need it to protect the lens, and not lose too much quality.

I have a zeikos one on the current 18-55 and that seems to be ok, but they dont do a 49mm one. and i dont want to bother with step up rings.

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Yup, thats the eyepeice, is it worth buying another one? will it just do the same? It looks fine, not banged up or anything, its just loose.

 

I am gonna keep the filter on the lens, would you recommend the polaroid 49mm UV? its £5 in amazon, and a bit more than i expected to pay for a filter, but it should be ok.

I dont wanna spend too much on one, i just need it to protect the lens, and not lose too much quality.

I have a zeikos one on the current 18-55 and that seems to be ok, but they dont do a 49mm one. and i dont want to bother with step up rings.

 

If it works for you, then go ahead on the filter.  It's for the new 50 1.8 STM lens you are planning to purchase, right?

 

Personally I wouldn't bother with a filter on that lens, the front element is sunk into the lens body.  It's not like these lenses (image below) where the front element could easily scrape against something if I didn't have the lens hood.  I don't use protection filters to protect against dropping or improve weatherproofing, I use them to protect the front element from getting scratched because I often shoot without the lens hood and in a hurry I may put the lens back in the bag without the front cap.

nikon-nikkor-af-s-35mm-f1.4-lens2.jpg

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If it works for you, then go ahead on the filter.  It's for the new 50 1.8 STM lens you are planning to purchase, right?

 

Personally I wouldn't bother with a filter on that lens, the front element is sunk into the lens body.  It's not like these lenses (image below) where the front element could easily scrape against something if I didn't have the lens hood.

nikon-nikkor-af-s-35mm-f1.4-lens2.jpg

Ohh? is it? but it extrudes anyway? Also, it protects it from residue and stuff like that. ill just go with the £5 polaroid one. im spending £90 on a lens, £5 wont make a difference.

Another question. Do i need a lens hood? on such a small lens it looks silly. and i havent had one with my 18-55 for however long i have had it. Does it help lens flares? cos i seem to be getting a lot of them with the 18-55.

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Ohh? is it? but it extrudes anyway? Also, it protects it from residue and stuff like that. ill just go with the £5 polaroid one. im spending £90 on a lens, £5 wont make a difference.

Another question. Do i need a lens hood? on such a small lens it looks silly. and i havent had one with my 18-55 for however long i have had it. Does it help lens flares? cos i seem to be getting a lot of them with the 18-55.

 

Ok when I say front element, I am talking about the glass.  Your 50mm 1.8 has the front glass element sunk into the lens body.  You'd have to reach your finger inside to touch the front glass element.  With other lenses like the two I showed above, even covering the front of the lens with my palm runs the risk I will touch the glass.

The-new-Canon-EF-50mm-f1.8-STM-lens-550x

 

If the lens doesn't come with a lens hood, don't worry about it.  Again, using the hood to reduce glare and lens flare only works in certain conditions such as you have the Sun (or other sources of light such as street lamps) just around the edge of your composition.  If the Sun is behind you and the camera is aimed away, not much chance of it affecting your image.  Additionally, if the front element is sunk into the lens body, the body can also act as sort of a lens hood.

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Ok when I say front element, I am talking about the glass.  Your 50mm 1.8 has the front glass element sunk into the lens body.

The-new-Canon-EF-50mm-f1.8-STM-lens-550x

 

If the lens doesn't come with a lens hood, don't worry about it.  Again, using the hood to reduce glare and lens flare only works in certain conditions such as you have the Sun (or other sources of light such as street lamps) just around the edge of your composition.  If the Sun is behind you and the camera is aimed away, not much chance of it affecting your image?  Additionally, if the front element is sunk into the lens body, the body can also act as sort of a lens hood.

ohh yeah. Thanks. Ill get the filter anyway. Ill forget about the hood.

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ohh yeah. Thanks. Ill get the filter anyway. Ill forget about the hood.

 

Dont get a shitty UV filter, they are useless and the cheap ones can actually lower the cameras image quality and increase flaring and internal reflection

 

Also yeah wex are good, check out Digital Rev too, you get 1 year UK warranty and its £85

 

http://www.digitalrev.com/product/canon-ef-50mm-f-1/MTEwNDE5MQ_A_A?googlebase=1&country=GB&gclid=Cj0KEQjwqZKxBRDBkNmLt9DejNgBEiQAq8XWPgnoJEtGoqapFtGPDTa6BNLI82UJNDm4RUogJADu8KIaAmkg8P8HAQ

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Dont get a shitty UV filter, they are useless and the cheap ones can actually lower the cameras image quality and increase flaring and internal reflection

 

Also yeah wex are good, check out Digital Rev too, you get 1 year UK warranty and its £85

 

http://www.digitalrev.com/product/canon-ef-50mm-f-1/MTEwNDE5MQ_A_A?googlebase=1&country=GB&gclid=Cj0KEQjwqZKxBRDBkNmLt9DejNgBEiQAq8XWPgnoJEtGoqapFtGPDTa6BNLI82UJNDm4RUogJADu8KIaAmkg8P8HAQ

oo thanks! didnt realise digital rev had free shipping to the uk! 

Do they have a warehouse in the UK? 

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oo thanks! didnt realise digital rev had free shipping to the uk! 

Do they have a warehouse in the UK? 

 

yeah I think its just a forwarding warehouse, not 100% sure, some stuff might come from abroad so might take a few days longer

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yeah I think its just a forwarding warehouse, not 100% sure, some stuff might come from abroad so might take a few days longer

ok cool thanks. ill get it from there.. thats a good deal!

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There are other areas where you can recover the extra cash spent in buying from an official retailer than buying a grey market product.  But lenses, camera bodies and batteries should not be where you try to bargain hunt every time unless you are buying second hand.

 

(Note: You can buy third party lenses such as Sigma, Tokina, Tamron, etc. fine.  But if you want a (e.g. Canon lens for your Canon body), legit is better than grey market just for the sake of warranty.)

 

You can save money in these areas:

  • Camera wired/wireless remote shutter release, no need to buy the expensive official ones when the cheaper ebay ones can be just as good.
  • Speedlights, you can buy third party Nissin, Yongnuo, Metz which tend to be cheaper.
  • Tripod accessories, like quick release plates.  E.g. branded Arca-Swiss quick release plates can be expensive, I can get ones I need on eBay for around 25% of the price.
  • Lens cleaning micro fiber cloths, get them from your local optical eye-wear stores.  Electronics stores will try to sell you lens cleaning cloths for $5 each, optical stores may give them to you for free or $1 each.  The spray on cleaning solution for your eye glasses will be more than suitable for cleaning your lens, and perhaps if you buy one bottle your optical store offers free refills, at least they do where I live.
  • Camera straps (if the ones that come with the camera break), do you really need ones that say in big letters Canon, Sony or Nikon?  It's like putting up a neon sign saying "Everyone look, I'm a target for mugging because I have an expensive camera!".

FYI, when I travel my cameras are usually covered in pieces of duct tape, camouflaging them to look old.  I've actually had people ask me why I'm using an old piece of equipment and not buy something new.

 

Here is a good guide that will teach you what to check when buying second hand camera gear.

https://photographylife.com/how-to-buy-used-dslr-cameras

I need a flash. Im thinking of the Yongnuo 565ex or 568ex. what are the differences? How about the neewer ones... they are cheaper. 

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I need a flash. Im thinking of the Yongnuo 565ex or 568ex. what are the differences? How about the neewer ones... they are cheaper. 

 

I don't know, can you just compare the spec sheet side by side?

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I don't know, can you just compare the spec sheet side by side?

i cant really find any... but from what ive seen, it seems to be only HSS, which i dont need. 

Im still confused about the neewer ones.

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i cant really find any... but from what ive seen, it seems to be only HSS, which i dont need. 

Im still confused about the neewer ones.

 

Ok post a link of the ones you are thinking of buying, because there seems to be a few different 565 and 568 models.

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Ok post a link of the ones you are thinking of buying, because there seems to be a few different 565 and 568 models.

Sorry for the late reply, I didn't get an email for some reason... I'm on mobile, but as soon as I get to desktop, I'll post the links

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HDD 2: Seagate Barracuda 2TB

Case: NZXT H710

PSU: Corsair TX750M

Mouse: Lamzu Atlantis Pro Mini 4khz

Keyboard: Akko 5075B Plus

OS: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit  

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Guide: DSLR or Video camera?, Guide: Film/Photo makers' useful resources, Guide: Lenses, a quick primer

Nikon D4, Nikon D800E, Fuji X-E2, Canon G16, Gopro Hero 3+, iPhone 5s. Hasselblad 500C/M, Sony PXW-FS7

ICT Consultant, Photographer, Video producer, Scuba diver and underwater explorer, Nature & humanitarian documentary producer

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Ok give me some time and I will post my thoughts after looking at them.

Alright thanks!

CPU: Ryzen 7 5800x + H150i Elite LCD     

RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance Pro RGB DDR4 3600MHz CL16

Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 Aorus Pro

GPU: MSI RTX 3070 Ventus 3X OC       

SSD 1: Corsair MP600 1tb (Windows)      

SSD 2: Samsung 840 EVO 120gb (Scratch Drive)   

SSD 3: Samsung 860 EVO 250gb

HDD 1: WD Blue 1TB

HDD 2: Seagate Barracuda 2TB

Case: NZXT H710

PSU: Corsair TX750M

Mouse: Lamzu Atlantis Pro Mini 4khz

Keyboard: Akko 5075B Plus

OS: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit  

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Alright thanks!

 

Ok, here are my comments.

 

Personally, I have never heard of the Neewer brand (I know what this brand is doing with the name :P ) until now.  Many people swear by the Yongnuo as a reliable brand and I have used some of their products.

 

Do you have an idea of what you are looking for in a flash?  Some of the important things you want in a flash are:

  • Certainly TTL capability with your camera, this will be very helpful
  • A good guide number*
  • Built in Infrared or Wireless radio transceiver so that the flash can act as a commander to control other flashes, or be controlled by other flashes

Other then that, you need to read some online reviews.

 

* Be careful when you read guide numbers for flashes.  Flash units like the ones you listed, and like the SB-910 Nikons that I have, are capable of zooming in-out a bit to focus or spread the light depending on the focal length of the lens.  You can also manually zoom in-out the flash bulb to focus or spread the light.

 

The Yongnuo's product description has a guide number of 58 m ISO100 at 105 mm position.  Normally a Guide Number = distance of subject from camera X Aperture, so this 58m GN for the Yongnuo would normally mean that if you use f/4 aperture on your camera (with ISO100) and the subject was standing 14.5m away, the flash is powerful enough to provide a good exposure.  But as the product description says 105mm position, you either have to use a 105mm lens or manually set the distance on the flash unit to focus the light as if you were using a 105mm focal length lens.

 

The Nikon SB-910 for example is rated 34m ISO 100 at 35mm position.  Meaning if I was using f/4 on my camera (with ISO100) the subject has to be standing at most 8.5m away from the camera for the flash to illuminate the subject and get good exposure.  So it appears that the SB-910 is less powerful than the Yongnuo, however the product description states "at 35mm position" for the Nikon while "at 105mm position" for the Yongnuo.  So the Youngnuo flash bulb has to be focused more in order to light up a subject at that extra 6m distance.

Guide: DSLR or Video camera?, Guide: Film/Photo makers' useful resources, Guide: Lenses, a quick primer

Nikon D4, Nikon D800E, Fuji X-E2, Canon G16, Gopro Hero 3+, iPhone 5s. Hasselblad 500C/M, Sony PXW-FS7

ICT Consultant, Photographer, Video producer, Scuba diver and underwater explorer, Nature & humanitarian documentary producer

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Ok, here are my comments.

 

Personally, I have never heard of the Neewer brand (I know what this brand is doing with the name :P ) until now.  Many people swear by the Yongnuo as a reliable brand and I have used some of their products.

 

Do you have an idea of what you are looking for in a flash?  Some of the important things you want in a flash are:

  • Certainly TTL capability with your camera, this will be very helpful
  • A good guide number
  • Built in Infrared or Wireless radio transceiver so that the flash can act as a commander to control other flashes, or be controlled by other flashes

Other then that, you need to read some online reviews.

all i need is a flash for walk around photography or for night shots (mainly family photos) and just stuff like that. Yes i need ttl, because manual is a lot of effort...

I dont think i really need the whole wireless thing, because i need to get a ttl compatible adapter... or something along those lines, if i want to use it off camera.

I have heard of the neewer brand before. They make the popular CN-160 light, and lots of other cheap chinese knock offs of popular stuff...

CPU: Ryzen 7 5800x + H150i Elite LCD     

RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance Pro RGB DDR4 3600MHz CL16

Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 Aorus Pro

GPU: MSI RTX 3070 Ventus 3X OC       

SSD 1: Corsair MP600 1tb (Windows)      

SSD 2: Samsung 840 EVO 120gb (Scratch Drive)   

SSD 3: Samsung 860 EVO 250gb

HDD 1: WD Blue 1TB

HDD 2: Seagate Barracuda 2TB

Case: NZXT H710

PSU: Corsair TX750M

Mouse: Lamzu Atlantis Pro Mini 4khz

Keyboard: Akko 5075B Plus

OS: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit  

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all i need is a flash for walk around photography or for night shots (mainly family photos) and just stuff like that. Yes i need ttl, because manual is a lot of effort...

I dont think i really need the whole wireless thing, because i need to get a ttl compatible adapter... or something along those lines, if i want to use it off camera.

I have heard of the neewer brand before. They make the popular CN-160 light, and lots of other cheap chinese knock offs of popular stuff...

 

Most flashes have the Infrared transceiver built in, some models use a radio signal instead of Infrared as IR requires line of sight.  But of course this only becomes useful if you own more than one flash unit.

 

Additionally, most flash units also have a light sensor built in so that you can use your camera's on-camera flash as a wireless trigger.  The on-camera flash will fire off a very fast but low intensity burst that will not affect the exposure of your photo (unless you want it to) but just powerful enough for the larger off camera flash unit to sense the signal and be triggered.

Guide: DSLR or Video camera?, Guide: Film/Photo makers' useful resources, Guide: Lenses, a quick primer

Nikon D4, Nikon D800E, Fuji X-E2, Canon G16, Gopro Hero 3+, iPhone 5s. Hasselblad 500C/M, Sony PXW-FS7

ICT Consultant, Photographer, Video producer, Scuba diver and underwater explorer, Nature & humanitarian documentary producer

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