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Upgraded CPU no Post, Downgraded again no Post

Sloptok
Go to solution Solved by Sloptok,

IMG_1205_small.thumb.jpg.feac133132aff5ddbfc42d5f5edd6483.jpg

 

IMG_E1210_small.thumb.jpg.39c02aba85987cfe2d3407a6d6dbb817.jpg

 

Operation completed successfully!

 

I used a special plastic adhesive to glue the pins back on the shelf part.

Then I heated the shelf to carefully bend it back down a little bit.

While installing the CPU I kept pressure on the edge of the shelf part (just to be sure) because there still was a little gap between the two parts, but ...

 

Everything works fine!

 

If anyone has the same problem and isn't afraid of tinkering a bit. Just be very gentle when pulling up the sliding cover. The locking mechanism isn't intended for multiple disassemblies and is very fragile. I had to glue them, too.

 

Best of luck to you!

Hello there,

 

I upgraded from a 3700x to a 5800x3d today. A simple endeavour, one would assume, but now, 12h later, I am really out of troubleshooting ideas.

 

Old System: (bought Q3/2019)

CPU: AMD 3700x

Cooler: Be Quiet! Dark Rock 4 Pro

Mainboard: Gigabyte x570 Aorus Ultra (I upgraded the BIOS a couple of months ago to F36d, which is still the newest.)

RAM: 16GB Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 PC 3600 CL18 (QVL checked)

Graphics: Gigabyte GTX 1070

PSU: be quiet! STRAIGHT POWER 11 650W

 

I ran a couple of benchmarks today, just to be able to compare the performance to the new CPU.

Then I disconnected power, upgraded the CPU and tried to boot. But all fans spin on 100%, CPU indicator LED on the mainboard flickers for about 0.5 s then the DRAM LED is constantly lit, monitor is black.

 

past troubleshooting:

- reseated the CPU (over 10 times now, because I keep ripping it from the socket with the cooler when changing the RAM positions)

- tried lower mounting pressure for the cooler

- borrowed g.skill trident z 4400 CL19 RAM from a friend, but same behavior

- tried to q.flash pro the F36d BIOS a couple of times

- replugged all power cables on the mainboard and the PSU

- tried RAM in dual channel mode, single channel and different slots

- cleared CMOS (unplugged power, took out the battery, waited 15 minutes and bridged the clear CMOS contacts at least 2 times for about 20 s)

 

Now for the really fun part:

- I reinstalled the old 3700x and the behavior persists, so no functioning PC anymore -.-

 

It is past 2 o'clock in the morning here (again) and I can't seem to find any other solutions in any forums that work for me. Most of the time they all just had to upgrade their BIOS to fix that problem.

I'm completely out of ideas and would appreciate any straw I could grasp, except "R.I.P. mobo".

 

Thanks in advance!

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Did you reset the bios? I didn't see that listed in your troubleshooting steps. When removing the CPU, I like to gently twist side to side before pulling straight up, to break the cooler loose prior to lifting up. That seems to prevent pulling the cpu out of the socket with the cooler.

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You need to plug the old CPU in and update your Motherboard BIOS. I had the same problem upgrading from 3800X to 5900X.

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6 hours ago, ninjitsu said:

Did you reset the bios? I didn't see that listed in your troubleshooting steps. When removing the CPU, I like to gently twist side to side before pulling straight up, to break the cooler loose prior to lifting up. That seems to prevent pulling the cpu out of the socket with the cooler.

Is resetting the BIOS the same as clearing CMOS?

 

If yes, then I forgot to mention that I already tried that. 
 

I unplugged power, took out the battery, waited 15 minutes and bridged the clear CMOS contacts at least 2 times for about 20 s.

 

I tried to wiggle the cooler veeery carefully. But the CPU sticks to it like glue. I have to slide it off to the side. I used brand new paste from Thermal Grizzly. 
 

5 hours ago, tommy2712 said:

You need to plug the old CPU in and update your Motherboard BIOS. I had the same problem upgrading from 3800X to 5900X.

Unfortunately I already tried that, but now the old CPU shows the same problem as the new one did. 

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Ok … apparently an AM4 socket is not supposed to look like this:

 

11AA3787-0A29-448B-8CD9-8A7FB914DEC8.thumb.jpeg.d04e330a5ffa47b65e23b2fb3405263f.jpeg
 

The gap between the top and bottom shouldn’t be there and while I keep pressure on the edge, everything seems to work just fine, up until I release the pressure. 
 

I know I am now pretty much tough out of luck, except for a new bord. But I am up for suggestions to how I could possibly botch something up. 
 

I can‘t seem to find any detailed information or CAD drawings, on how the 2 halves of the AM4 socket are linked together or how the locking mechanism works. 

Maybe I just unhooked anything and with a little force on the right part I could snap something back together?

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A959679E-9780-4482-BB2A-8D1D5AF8F2AF.thumb.jpeg.8ce87268108dcb09779ad04f6a46f8e3.jpeg


Well well well, if it isn‘t my arch nemesis, lackluster quality control. The shelf part above the metal rod is bent upwards at a sligth angle. I guess the part bent after moulding while cooling off.
The T shaped parts haven‘t been ripped off vertically, they were sheared to the side hanging from a sliver of plastic, but nontheless touching them slightly was enough to detach them.
 

I found quite a lot of troubleshooting threads with similarly broken socket covers, most of them from Gigabyte and all with the Lotes AM4 cover. But every time they tried to RMA the boards, Gigabyte claimed, that the damage was on the user side. But noone could have possibly seen, that the cover was bent upwards slightly from the beginning. 
 

So, while I was engaging the locking mechanism for the first time 3 years ago, the pins must have already been sheared off and I was maybe just lucky, everything seated correctly in the first place with the 3700x. 
 

Now the fun part begins: I‘ll try to glue them back on tomorrow. Otherwise I’ll buy a new cover. 
 

I‘ll update the thread if that does the trick. 

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Well shit. Never seen that happen before. 

Be sure to @Pickles von Brine if you want me to see your reply!

Stopping by to praise the all mighty jar Lord pickles... * drinks from a chalice of holy pickle juice and tossed dill over shoulder* ~ @WarDance
3600x | NH-D15 Chromax Black | 32GB 3200MHz | ASUS KO RTX 3070 UnderVolted and UnderClocked | Gigabyte Aorus Elite AX X570S | Seasonic X760w | Phanteks Evolv X | 500GB WD_Black SN750 x2 | Sandisk Skyhawk 3.84TB SSD 

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IMG_1205_small.thumb.jpg.feac133132aff5ddbfc42d5f5edd6483.jpg

 

IMG_E1210_small.thumb.jpg.39c02aba85987cfe2d3407a6d6dbb817.jpg

 

Operation completed successfully!

 

I used a special plastic adhesive to glue the pins back on the shelf part.

Then I heated the shelf to carefully bend it back down a little bit.

While installing the CPU I kept pressure on the edge of the shelf part (just to be sure) because there still was a little gap between the two parts, but ...

 

Everything works fine!

 

If anyone has the same problem and isn't afraid of tinkering a bit. Just be very gentle when pulling up the sliding cover. The locking mechanism isn't intended for multiple disassemblies and is very fragile. I had to glue them, too.

 

Best of luck to you!

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