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Is Audioengine overkill?

venomtail
Go to solution Solved by Motifator,

With passive speakers, I'd recommend banana cabling + receiver. Though since you seem to dig the CR5X which there's nothing wrong with (my mom had CR4's for a good while off onboard), I might as well simply suggest getting those and using onboard audio. 🙂

Do I even need the upgrade? Looking to replace my Z232's when I plan to do my desk setup upgrade. Saw that Audioengine's A5+  and HD3 are very pretty but they cost a fortune, £900 and £400 respectively. Is there even a point in getting something so expensive, especially when my audio will be running from X470 I motherboard's built in audio. Maybe a Yamaha HS5 is a more sensible upgrade or an Edifier speaker? Those look pretty pretty and beefy. Could pack a punch. 

 

Just looking for a general upgrade to sound clarity but I'm no enthusiast so no idea what I'm looking for, just know that many of my songs are bass heavy and the Z232 sub can shake the whole house without necessarily having clearer punchier base. Miles better than the new Z333's tho. Straight up downgrade. 

 

What is it that I should look for that's worth it for the money paid? Setup would be one monitor with 2 speakers by either side. If I was to have a sub, I'd probably only have room next to my feet.

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So with speakers you run into diminishing returns quite quickly but you will notice the subtle difference betweens lets say a 300$ high end set and then one of those super epic mega good sets of 1000$++++.

 

But really coming from those logitechs a whole bunch of cheaper options would already blow them out of the water.

 

What is your preferred budget?

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Any decent studio monitor would be an upgrade from the Logitech set, but like, if I'm understanding this right... you're also sort of looking for a sub. Audioengine's are overpriced, HS5s are good but often on a sale. As you can see, you're looking to pay 188 quid for one, making them almost as bad as the Audioengines.

You can run this stuff off onboard audio indeed, and if you prefer, add an interface later down the road.

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4 minutes ago, jaslion said:

So with speakers you run into diminishing returns quite quickly but you will notice the subtle difference betweens lets say a 300$ high end set and then one of those super epic mega good sets of 1000$++++.

 

But really coming from those logitechs a whole bunch of cheaper options would already blow them out of the water.

 

What is your preferred budget?

I could justify some £300 at most for a whole audio setup.

 

At first I was thinking of some Edifier speaker like the R980T's but I've seen people talk so much shit about edifier on audio forums I've no idea if their reference of shit is compared to basic £80 consumer speakers or their on £800+ ones... 

 

3 minutes ago, Motifator said:

you're looking to pay 188 quid for one, making them almost as bad as the Audioengines.

So in a sense the Yamaha's are also pointless? What would you recommend

 

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Yamaha has been out of the game for at least half of a decade, if not more. They're not competitive in this day and age when it comes to studio monitors. Same grouping as KRK in my mind. They found a sound/design, and they haven't updated it in many years.

 

Get an Emotiva B1+, Mackie MR524, or try DIY and go for the X-LS Encore's from GR Research. They all sit at about the same price, although DIY obviously gets the best results. You can just pay for the kit, then assemble it yourself. That's the trick to getting an awesome system for super cheap. Or you could buy them pre-assembled, which is obviously WAY more expensive when you factor in the labor with that quality of components.

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18 minutes ago, Motifator said:
21 minutes ago, OfficialTechSpace said:

Mackie MR524

Looks like those need some fat boi plugs for input? I guess there isn't a 3.5mm jack to those plug converters? And what interface do you recommend with the budget that I have left?

 

21 minutes ago, OfficialTechSpace said:

Emotiva BS1+

How would I power this? Just some plus minus cables. Where's the power? Would I need an interface for that as well or...?

 

I'm way over my head with audio spec and setup, forgive me

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The Emotiva's are passive, as such you'll need a receiver / amplifier to power them. The bonus of that is having the access to a load of hi-fi subs. Though if you're going down that route, there are of course alternative speakers. You'll also need the space for all that.

With the Unik's, you'll want an interface so you could use balanced TRS cabling with XLR outs for one end, and 6.3mm on the other end. That's what I'd recommend if you also intend on using a mic in the future:

-snip-

Edited because I noticed the Tascam lacks the outputs, try this instead:

https://www.gear4music.com/Recording-and-Computers/Presonus-Studio-24C-Audio-Interface/2T1J?_gl=1*asuf8h*_ga*MTcxNTQyMjI0OS4xNjU3Mjc4NTYy*_up*MQ..

I have its 192 version, great interface.

Edited by Motifator
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40 minutes ago, venomtail said:

Looks like those need some fat boi plugs for input? I guess there isn't a 3.5mm jack to those plug converters? And what interface do you recommend with the budget that I have left?

Proper speakers use RCA, XLR, and TRS connectors. Some other active models do include optical inputs, although these do not. 3.5mm line-outs are more commonly used on desktop speakers.

40 minutes ago, venomtail said:

How would I power this? Just some plus minus cables. Where's the power? Would I need an interface for that as well or...?

Just a regular power amp, nothing too extravagant. Although I would recommend the GR Research X-LS Encore's above all else.

 

I'm not sure why everyone seems to be talking about interfaces, the proper item is a DAC. Interfaces have integrated DACs, but are multi-purpose and thereby not ideal for an output-only situation. manufacturers have a set budget to work with, and a target market price. You want something that is single-purpose, so that you know the entire development was focused on having a clean output rather than balanced between many things. Sharing = lesser quality. Less sharing = better.

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13 minutes ago, Motifator said:

The Emotiva's are passive, as such you'll need a receiver / amplifier to power them. The bonus of that is having the access to a load of hi-fi subs. Though if you're going down that route, there are of course alternative speakers. You'll also need the space for all that.

With the Unik's, you'll want an interface so you could use balanced TRS cabling with XLR outs for one end, and 6.3mm on the other end. That's what I'd recommend if you also intend on using a mic in the future:

-snip-

Edited because I noticed the Tascam lacks the outputs, try this instead:

https://www.gear4music.com/Recording-and-Computers/Presonus-Studio-24C-Audio-Interface/2T1J?_gl=1*asuf8h*_ga*MTcxNTQyMjI0OS4xNjU3Mjc4NTYy*_up*MQ..

I have its 192 version, great interface.

The Uniks were very pretty with not a pretty price tag. 

I'd like to keep clutter down to a minimum because I often have to move. The less things I need to transport the better.

How would I set up the Studio 24. Some USB cable from motherboard? Those 2 fat plugs go in the front 2 ports that power the Unik speakers? On a sidenote, I have HyperX Cloud jack headset, where would that go along here?

And what's the difference between the audiobox and your Studio? All I see is the same 2 plugs and half the price. What would I be missing.

 

11 minutes ago, OfficialTechSpace said:

Just a regular power amp, nothing too extravagant. Although I would recommend the GR Research X-LS Encore's above all else.

How much does a needed power amp go for?

Those GR's are cool but I don't think it's wise for me to blow all my budget on DIY parts, not including the materials and time it'll take me to make them.

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10 minutes ago, OfficialTechSpace said:

Just a regular power amp, nothing too extravagant. Although I would recommend the GR Research X-LS Encore's above all else.

 

I'm not sure why everyone seems to be talking about interfaces, the proper item is a DAC. Interfaces have integrated DACs, but are multi-purpose and thereby not ideal for an output-only situation. manufacturers have a set budget to work with, and a target market price. You want something that is single-purpose, so that you know the entire development was focused on having a clean output rather than balanced between many things. Sharing = lesser quality. Less sharing = better.


This is incorrect terminology, a "power amp" alone will NOT power those speakers. You'll also need a pre amp which will be another stage all together. You can't power passive speakers no matter what they are without a power + pre OR, in your case, the better solution would be an INTEGRATED amp - which means a pre + power in one. This can be a receiver or just a regular amplifier.

The Presonus interfaces have some solid Sabre converters actually... they do a solid job at whatever you throw at them. I've done vocals with a high end mic on mine... have yet to let me down. You get the Presonus Studio One which is an acclaimed software and then some...

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22 minutes ago, Motifator said:

This is incorrect terminology, a "power amp" alone will NOT power those speakers. You'll also need a pre amp which will be another stage all together. You can't power passive speakers no matter what they are without a power + pre OR, in your case, the better solution would be an INTEGRATED amp - which means a pre + power in one. This can be a receiver or just a regular amplifier.

A power amplifier is the correct term because I'm suggesting integrating a DAC to the setup. Speak when you have something useful to add, I'm not new to the audio space. The DAC feeds out to an amplifier, which then feeds to the speakers providing sufficient power. Pre-amp just refers to the process previous to the amplifier. A DAC still keeps volume control.

23 minutes ago, venomtail said:

Those GR's are cool but I don't think it's wise for me to blow all my budget on DIY parts, not including the materials and time it'll take me to make them.

It includes all of the required materials. All you need to do is assemble it, and that should take no more than a few hours. That's why it's a kit, it's everything. GR Research also has in-depth videos showing the entire build process. The work pays off, and as a result they're better designed than a number of much more expensive speakers.

 

By opting for DIY and doing it properly, you avoid all of these issues often made by others:

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1pwA92GsmGfpXTs45Zyc_u3YYIE9CfSM4MXRD89SoI2o/edit?usp=sharing

[Main Desktop]

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COOLER: Arctic LiquidFreezer II 280 STORAGE: G.SKILL Phoenix FTL 240GB SSD, Crucial MX500 1TB SSD, Toshiba 2TB HDD, Seagate 4TB HDD

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IEMS: 7Hz Timeless, Tin Audio T2, Blon BL-03, Samsung/AKG Galaxy Buds Pro  STUDIO MONITORS: Mackie MR524, Mackie MRS10  MIC: NEAT Worker Bee  

INTERFACE: Focusrite Scarlett Solo  AMPLIFIER: SMSL SP200 THX AAA-888, XDUOO XD-05 Basic  DAC: SMSL Sanskrit 10th MKII (upgraded AK4493 Version)

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RECEIVER: Kenwood DPX304MBT  SOUND DEADENING: Damplifier Pro Deadening Mats  SOUND DAMPENING: Custom solution, layers of thick insulation

DOOR SPEAKERS: Kenwood KFC-P710PS 6.5" Components  WINDOW LEDGE SPEAKERS: Kenwood KFC-6996PS 6x9" 5-Ways

 

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1 hour ago, OfficialTechSpace said:

A power amplifier is the correct term because I'm suggesting integrating a DAC to the setup. Speak when you have something useful to add, I'm not new to the audio space. The DAC feeds out to an amplifier, which then feeds to the speakers providing sufficient power. Pre-amp just refers to the process previous to the amplifier. A DAC still keeps volume control.

It includes all of the required materials. All you need to do is assemble it, and that should take no more than a few hours. That's why it's a kit, it's everything. GR Research also has in-depth videos showing the entire build process. The work pays off, and as a result they're better designed than a number of much more expensive speakers.

 

By opting for DIY and doing it properly, you avoid all of these issues often made by others:

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1pwA92GsmGfpXTs45Zyc_u3YYIE9CfSM4MXRD89SoI2o/edit?usp=sharing


No, "just a power amplifier" is the INCORRECT terminology, you're making it sounds like they can get audio output by JUST adding a power amp, which is WRONG. Then you talk about buying a DAC which will further complicate the process and add up to the costs. What's even worse is, you talk about building speakers yourself to the OP, which there's no point of. I'm not against building amps, speakers whatever all-together, but for this situation... it makes NO sense at all.

You have nothing useful to add here other than couple speaker recommendations, then you make it sound like you know what you're talking about, which you do not.

Now moving back to my point, the Eniks are great and I'd recommend them with the Studio C interface. Not only the speakers themselves are very robust, but you also get an integrated DSP with a shape and a couple other knobs that let you dial in a darker or a brighter tone as you wish... and the Presonus Studio software which is also pretty good.

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Ok @OfficialTechSpaceand @Motifatorhere's how I understand the setup.

 

I can't find any comparisons of the Unik 5 online just Mackie MR524, so let's stick with the Mackie. I assume both are the same in requirements.

I buy the Mackie MR524's, connect them both up with the big fat cables to this controller because it has 2 fat plug outputs and I use a normal 3.5mm jack to connect it from my motherboard to the 3.5mm input of this controller. Correct? 

I gotta be missing something right...

 

Comes to £355. A bit over budget but I can live with that. I'll see it as an investment. 

I see MR524 have setting B. I'll have to use that if my desk is against the wall and place the speakers besides my monitor?

 

 

3 hours ago, OfficialTechSpace said:

Link says "everything you need minus cabinet material." so I'd still need the materials, tools to get the finish I need, time and space where to do it. I'll do this DIY project someday, eyed a similar speaker project a few years ago but I'll have to pass up on this for now. 

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The ESI is far better of a speaker than anything Mackie offers in that range tbh, it has a hybrid ribbon tweeter and much more continuous output, not to mention the adjustability on the rear. You can connect the Mackie's to your onboard over RCA, you don't need that with them. If you want to cut costs, sure there are cheaper interfaces to go with the Unik's. You're basically paying a very tiny bit more for a worse speaker.

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15 minutes ago, Motifator said:

The ESI is far better of a speaker than anything Mackie offers in that range tbh, it has a hybrid ribbon tweeter and much more continuous output, not to mention the adjustability on the rear. You can connect the Mackie's to your onboard over RCA, you don't need that with them. If you want to cut costs, sure there are cheaper interfaces to go with the Unik's. You're basically paying a very tiny bit more for a worse speaker.

Just picked the Mackie as an example. I saw glowing reviews of the Unik and it is prettier but no one has made a video comparing it. It also only has that fat cable connection so then I would need the controller? 

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Yeah, you're gonna need something that offers XLR to 6.3 in that case. Wouldn't recommend that little Behringer, maybe something like this instead of the Presonus Studio for cheaper:

https://www.gear4music.com/Recording-and-Computers/Arturia-MiniFuse-1-USB-Audio-Interface-White/43TY?_gl=1*8jai7b*_ga*MTExNzI4MjQ4My4xNjU3MjkwNTIy*_up*MQ..

Would still opt for the Presonus Studio though.

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1 minute ago, Motifator said:

Yeah, you're gonna need something that offers XLR to 6.3 in that case. Wouldn't recommend that little Behringer, maybe something like this instead of the Presonus Studio for cheaper:

https://www.gear4music.com/Recording-and-Computers/Arturia-MiniFuse-1-USB-Audio-Interface-White/43TY?_gl=1*8jai7b*_ga*MTExNzI4MjQ4My4xNjU3MjkwNTIy*_up*MQ..

Would still opt for the Presonus Studio though.

I'm so confused about the interfaces. Doesn't the one you recommend have one XLR input? How would I connect the 2 XLR cables to the speakers. Do I need some converter cable for the 2 smaller cables at the back that each convert to XLR?

What about this? It has USB in and the 2 XLR's out for each speaker

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You're using the balanced cable outs on the back, not the front. The front end is used for instruments and mics. This is the cable you'd be using:

Hosa_Technology_HSX_100_HSX_100_Balanced

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7 minutes ago, Motifator said:

You're using the balanced cable outs on the back, not the front. The front end is used for instruments and mics. This is the cable you'd be using:

Hosa_Technology_HSX_100_HSX_100_Balanced

I see, didn't know these existed. Two cables for the two monitors and then at the front I can plug in my headset.

Is there anything specific for why you chose this or that it met some minimum requirements. If so, what are these requirements.?

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The HyperX Cloud will kind of complicate the things here, as it requires its USB dongle for the connection of the 3.5mm headphone + mic. Now you could directly connect the headphones to the interface, but the interface only accepts 6.3 so you're going to need a little 3.5 to 6.3 converter there as well. The latter is not an issue, but the former would be.

Alternatively, you could buy a more proper mic later on, and ditch the HyperX mic all together. Then run that off with the interface.

The cable is a default, buying better doesn't give any actual gains.

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1 minute ago, Motifator said:

The HyperX Cloud will kind of complicate the things here, as it requires its USB dongle for the connection of the 3.5mm headphone + mic. Now you could directly connect the headphones to the interface, but the interface only accepts 6.3 so you're going to need a little 3.5 to 6.3 converter there as well. The latter is not an issue, but the former would be.

Alternatively, you could buy a more proper mic later on, and ditch the HyperX mic all together. Then run that off with the interface.

The cable is a default, buying better doesn't give any actual gains.

My Clouds don't come with any USB connection as I bought them the first time they came out. Back then they just had two 3.5mm jacks, one audio one mic, volume controls/mute hub that is just a switch and resistor in the middle and jack extenders. No USB at all.

 

Now when it come to channels of 7.1, 5.0 or others I don't understand them nor their compatibility. I guess it's a pyramid from the higher the number the more on top it is? I just have two audio jacks.

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My recco is for the KEF LSX (version 1 or 2). Simple active set with loads of connectivity options. I use a passive speaker set at my desk and it's just a mess finding a place to store an amplifier. It's more expensive than the audioengines but I also think it's in a higher class.

 

My opinion for computer audio is to keep as simple as possible.

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I'd never recommend the KEF $1250+ set... as in that price range, you definitely should be looking at opening space for some tower speakers. Even if not, there will be bookshelf pairs that will beat it without an issue at the price you're looking at, or even cheaper easily. Just not in connectivity.

You'll probably have to switch back and forth between onboard audio for your HyperX set (considering you want to use its mic), and the interface for the speakers. This will be an issue regardless of what you buy, since it seems to still use two different cables for itself.

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-= Thread cleaned =-

Its pointless to derail a topic to squabble about recommendations. Remember you're here to assist the OP with their question.

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