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About OfficialTechSpace

  • Title
  • Birthday October 28

Contact Methods

Profile Information

  • Location
    British Columbia, Canada
  • Gender
  • Interests
    PC builds, overclocking, extravagant & overkill sub-ambient cooling techniques, audiophile hardware and tech in general.
  • Biography
    Yes, I am a Canadian. Yes, I am a tech enthusiast. Yes, I am based in British Columbia. No, my name is not Linus.
  • Occupation
    Professional tech enthusiast


  • CPU
    Ryzen 5 5600X
  • Motherboard
    MSI Gaming Pro Carbon X470
  • RAM
    16GB G.Skill Ripjaws V DDR4-3600 (CL16)
  • GPU
    EVGA RTX 3070 Ti FTW3 Ultra
  • Case
    MESHMOD v1.0 / Deepcool Matrexx 70 ADD-RGB 3F
  • Storage
    240GB G.SKILL Phoenix FTL SSD, 1TB Crucial MX500 SSD, 2TB Toshiba HDD, 4TB Seagate HDD
  • PSU
    EVGA 1000W 80+ Gold (210-GQ-1000-V1)
  • Display(s)
    AOC 24G2 24" 1080p 144 Hz IPS
  • Cooling
    EVGA CLC 280
  • Keyboard
    Rosewill K81 / Kailh Brown
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502 Hero
  • Sound
    Mackie MR524, Mackie MRS10, Drop x Sennheiser HD58X Jubilee, Galaxy Buds Pro
  • Operating System
    Windows 11
  • Phone
    Samsung Galaxy S21
  • PCPartPicker URL

Recent Profile Visitors

2,124 profile views
  1. Budget IEMs with balanced armatures tend to have issues. BAs in general lack the ability to sound as natural or dynamic as a traditional DD. This only becomes more prevalent the lower you go down in the price bracket. "Shouty midrange and subpar technicalities" to quote Crinacle specifically, and I can second this having also owned them for a short period. +1 the above as well, very different tuning, and a largely different sound. The ZS10 Pro's were supposed to be a Tin Audio T2 competitor in the ~$50 range, there's no comparison when it comes to the Blessing 2s.
  2. Just download MSI Afterburner and run the OC Scanner. It'll find the most optimal frequency/voltage curve for your card and its environment. Zero effort on the user-end, which is good for newbies. Also no need for testing because it's already done within the software, and should be stable. I'd say this is your best option unless you want to learn how voltages / core clocks / memory frequencies coincide with one another, and are okay with running half a dozen benchmarks to test stability.
  3. I trade in my current GPU for a better deal on next-gen every launch now. I sold my last card for $900 CAD and during the shortage replaced it with a 3070 Ti for $1100 after a local restock. It was like getting a 3070 Ti for $200 basically. A 30-40% performance uplift from my 1080 Ti depending on where you're looking.
  4. The 3700X costs just as much as the 5600X, there's no point in even considering last-gen.
  5. That's a thermal issue, these cards don't do well under sustained load at high temperatures. Artifacts can also be caused by overclocking, chip degradation, and GPU sag (causing a bad connection). Undervolting your card might be a good start, after that try reapplying your thermal paste. Neither of those cause artifacting, something probably went wrong within your strange method of troubleshooting this. That'd explain why it got worse. Most of the time tech support doesn't know anything more about computer hardware than you do. That's why people resort to forums for multiple op
  6. Who said anything about repairing it? If the cards were somehow damaged under daily use (which is hard to fathom) than that's a real issue, and you need to take more precautions with your rig. Cards don't just die like that unless something is wrong with your system, not the cards. [REDACTED - I have since realized that was your mobo, not a second GPU] "Sounds to me like you've killed 2 cards in that setup already, an R9 390, and a GTX 970." Troubleshooting should always be your first step to a problem, not buying new hardware. Why? You need them more than
  7. You'd see more of a performance uplift just upgrading from your current CPU. It's a silly time to be looking for a GPU anyways, and none of the ones you listed are any good. And I +1 the above, I have trouble believing your 970 is "toasted". Just perform your (should be at least yearly) maintenance on it, and it'll be fine.
  8. The only difference between a 3090 and a 3080 Ti is the extra VRAM and price-hike, the only time that VRAM is necessary is for creative applications. If this is a gaming build (like stated), a 3090 would be a silly purchase. That being said, you can also fit in a 5950X for the price. I get that list is supposed to be completely overkill, and that's why I haven't agreed with the other persons reply above. We could sit and argue about sufficiency and value all day, but that isn't the point of this build. Here's what I'd recommend: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/mw4PCz CPU:
  9. Everything... just- everything. Not the best thing to point out, I bought this RAM at 16 before I knew anything about computers. I was just lucky that I knew a lower CAS latency was better for Ryzen and went for a CL16 kit. Crucial Ballistix would've been better for the price, I was just ignorant to certain things at that time. I have many suggestions, one of which is a full rebuild of that spec list. The other is that you go do some research, try Gamers Nexus and Hardware Unboxed. We can only help out so much here, in the end it's up to you to make the final decisions. There
  10. Scrap that whole list and start from scratch, there's not a single good part on that list besides the GPU (which is not available).
  11. This isn't even a reasonable comparison, you're putting the best 1080p/144Hz IPS monitor available next to some mid-ranking VA monitor as though it's somehow competitive. There's no reason to buy anything other than IPS in 2021 unless you're looking for a good HDR experience (the technology of which which still hasn't matured in most monitors yet, that's why everyone recommends high-refresh OLED TVs for HDR: LG C1 OLED Review: The Best HDR Display for PC Gamers?) 24G2 all the way. AOC 24G2 Review, The Best 1080p 144Hz Monitor You Can Get! - YouTube
  12. Correct, the advertised transfer speeds are almost completely irrelevant to an extent. Most people wouldn't even see a benefit over a traditional SATA III SSD, it just so happens that some of the higher-speed NVME drives cost just as little now. Besides that, access speed (measured in IOPS) is the only other difference than data-transfer rates, and that's also mostly irrelevant to the average user at a certain point. All that really matters is: 1. Whether or not the drive is DRAM'less 2. The MTBF rating (Mean Time Before Failure / how long it's rated to last) 3. The
  13. I never said it wasn't good, I said it "isn't really a good value anymore". I'm not sure who you're arguing with, but it can't be me. That poor wall you're speaking to must need therapy.
  14. "If however you are only interested in something that's brand new and a few moths old is too old for a metal box with some fans in it for you, then Fractal's successor... the Meshify 2 compact is reviewed on our channel" *1 minute later* "GPU thermals aren't as good as we'd hoped"