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Turning on PSU causes breaker to pop

swp

So I've recently built a pc however when turning on the power supply the breaker instantly pops. Could this be a faulty power supply or something else? It's a be quiet! System Power 9 500W

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What else do you have on that circuit, the xtra inrúsh current form turning on the pc might be the tripping point.

 

QUOTE ME  FOR ANSWER.

 

Main PC:

Spoiler

|Ryzen 7 3700x, OC to 4.2ghz @1.3V, 67C, or 4.4ghz @1.456V, 87C || Asus strix 5700 XT, +50 core, +50 memory, +50 power (not a great overclocker) || Asus Strix b550-A || G.skill trident Z Neo rgb 32gb 3600mhz cl16-19-19-19-39, oc to 3733mhz with the same timings || Cooler Master ml360 RGB AIO || Phanteks P500A Digital || Thermaltake ToughPower grand RGB750w 80+gold || Samsung 850 250gb and Adata SX 6000 Lite 500gb || Toshiba 5400rpm 1tb || Asus Rog Theta 7.1 || Asus Rog claymore || Asus Gladius 2 origin gaming mouse || Monitor 1 Asus 1080p 144hz || Monitor 2 AOC 1080p 75hz || 

Test Rig.

Spoiler

Ryzen 5 3400G || Gigabyte b450 S2H || Hyper X fury 2x4gb 2666mhz cl 16 ||Stock cooler || Antec NX100 || Silverstone essential 400w || Transgend SSD 220s 480gb ||

Just Sold

Spoiler

| i3 9100F || Msi Gaming X gtx 1050 TI || MSI Z390 A-Pro || Kingston 1x16gb 2400mhz cl17 || Stock cooler || Kolink Horizon RGB || Corsair CV 550w || Pny CS900 120gb ||

 

Tier lists for building a PC.

 

Motherboard tier list. Tier A for overclocking 5950x. Tier B for overclocking 5900x, Tier C for overclocking 5800X. Tier D for overclocking 5600X. Tier F for 4/6 core Cpus at stock. Tier E avoid.

(Also case airflow matter or if you are using Downcraft air cooler)

Spoiler

 

Gpu tier list. Rtx 3000 and RX 6000 not included since not so many reviews. Tier S for Water cooling. Tier A and B for overcloking. Tier C stock and Tier D avoid.

( You can overclock Tier C just fine, but it can get very loud, that is why it is not recommended for overclocking, same with tier D)

Spoiler

 

Psu tier List. Tier A for Rtx 3000, Vega and RX 6000. Tier B For anything else. Tier C cheap/IGPU. Tier D and E avoid.

(RTX 3000/ RX 6000 Might run just fine with higher wattage tier B unit, Rtx 3070 runs fine with tier B units)

Spoiler

 

Cpu cooler tier list. Tier 1&2 for power hungry Cpus with Overclock. Tier 3&4 for overclocking Ryzen 3,5,7 or lower power Intel Cpus. Tier 5 for overclocking low end Cpus or 4/6 core Ryzen. Tier 6&7 for stock. Tier 8&9 Ryzen stock cooler performance. Do not waste your money!

Spoiler

 

Storage tier List. Tier A for Moving files/  OS. Tier B for OS/Games. Tier C for games. Tier D budget Pcs. Tier E if on sale not the worst but not good.

(With a grain of salt, I use tier C for OS myself)

Spoiler

 

Case Tier List. Work In Progress. Most Phanteks airflow series cases already done!

Ask me anything :)

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1 minute ago, swp said:

Nothing

therem ust be something, liek a space heater, stuff in other rooms etc

QUOTE ME  FOR ANSWER.

 

Main PC:

Spoiler

|Ryzen 7 3700x, OC to 4.2ghz @1.3V, 67C, or 4.4ghz @1.456V, 87C || Asus strix 5700 XT, +50 core, +50 memory, +50 power (not a great overclocker) || Asus Strix b550-A || G.skill trident Z Neo rgb 32gb 3600mhz cl16-19-19-19-39, oc to 3733mhz with the same timings || Cooler Master ml360 RGB AIO || Phanteks P500A Digital || Thermaltake ToughPower grand RGB750w 80+gold || Samsung 850 250gb and Adata SX 6000 Lite 500gb || Toshiba 5400rpm 1tb || Asus Rog Theta 7.1 || Asus Rog claymore || Asus Gladius 2 origin gaming mouse || Monitor 1 Asus 1080p 144hz || Monitor 2 AOC 1080p 75hz || 

Test Rig.

Spoiler

Ryzen 5 3400G || Gigabyte b450 S2H || Hyper X fury 2x4gb 2666mhz cl 16 ||Stock cooler || Antec NX100 || Silverstone essential 400w || Transgend SSD 220s 480gb ||

Just Sold

Spoiler

| i3 9100F || Msi Gaming X gtx 1050 TI || MSI Z390 A-Pro || Kingston 1x16gb 2400mhz cl17 || Stock cooler || Kolink Horizon RGB || Corsair CV 550w || Pny CS900 120gb ||

 

Tier lists for building a PC.

 

Motherboard tier list. Tier A for overclocking 5950x. Tier B for overclocking 5900x, Tier C for overclocking 5800X. Tier D for overclocking 5600X. Tier F for 4/6 core Cpus at stock. Tier E avoid.

(Also case airflow matter or if you are using Downcraft air cooler)

Spoiler

 

Gpu tier list. Rtx 3000 and RX 6000 not included since not so many reviews. Tier S for Water cooling. Tier A and B for overcloking. Tier C stock and Tier D avoid.

( You can overclock Tier C just fine, but it can get very loud, that is why it is not recommended for overclocking, same with tier D)

Spoiler

 

Psu tier List. Tier A for Rtx 3000, Vega and RX 6000. Tier B For anything else. Tier C cheap/IGPU. Tier D and E avoid.

(RTX 3000/ RX 6000 Might run just fine with higher wattage tier B unit, Rtx 3070 runs fine with tier B units)

Spoiler

 

Cpu cooler tier list. Tier 1&2 for power hungry Cpus with Overclock. Tier 3&4 for overclocking Ryzen 3,5,7 or lower power Intel Cpus. Tier 5 for overclocking low end Cpus or 4/6 core Ryzen. Tier 6&7 for stock. Tier 8&9 Ryzen stock cooler performance. Do not waste your money!

Spoiler

 

Storage tier List. Tier A for Moving files/  OS. Tier B for OS/Games. Tier C for games. Tier D budget Pcs. Tier E if on sale not the worst but not good.

(With a grain of salt, I use tier C for OS myself)

Spoiler

 

Case Tier List. Work In Progress. Most Phanteks airflow series cases already done!

Ask me anything :)

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you could try to move the pc in the other side of the house and try to power it form there, to rule out the circuit issue

QUOTE ME  FOR ANSWER.

 

Main PC:

Spoiler

|Ryzen 7 3700x, OC to 4.2ghz @1.3V, 67C, or 4.4ghz @1.456V, 87C || Asus strix 5700 XT, +50 core, +50 memory, +50 power (not a great overclocker) || Asus Strix b550-A || G.skill trident Z Neo rgb 32gb 3600mhz cl16-19-19-19-39, oc to 3733mhz with the same timings || Cooler Master ml360 RGB AIO || Phanteks P500A Digital || Thermaltake ToughPower grand RGB750w 80+gold || Samsung 850 250gb and Adata SX 6000 Lite 500gb || Toshiba 5400rpm 1tb || Asus Rog Theta 7.1 || Asus Rog claymore || Asus Gladius 2 origin gaming mouse || Monitor 1 Asus 1080p 144hz || Monitor 2 AOC 1080p 75hz || 

Test Rig.

Spoiler

Ryzen 5 3400G || Gigabyte b450 S2H || Hyper X fury 2x4gb 2666mhz cl 16 ||Stock cooler || Antec NX100 || Silverstone essential 400w || Transgend SSD 220s 480gb ||

Just Sold

Spoiler

| i3 9100F || Msi Gaming X gtx 1050 TI || MSI Z390 A-Pro || Kingston 1x16gb 2400mhz cl17 || Stock cooler || Kolink Horizon RGB || Corsair CV 550w || Pny CS900 120gb ||

 

Tier lists for building a PC.

 

Motherboard tier list. Tier A for overclocking 5950x. Tier B for overclocking 5900x, Tier C for overclocking 5800X. Tier D for overclocking 5600X. Tier F for 4/6 core Cpus at stock. Tier E avoid.

(Also case airflow matter or if you are using Downcraft air cooler)

Spoiler

 

Gpu tier list. Rtx 3000 and RX 6000 not included since not so many reviews. Tier S for Water cooling. Tier A and B for overcloking. Tier C stock and Tier D avoid.

( You can overclock Tier C just fine, but it can get very loud, that is why it is not recommended for overclocking, same with tier D)

Spoiler

 

Psu tier List. Tier A for Rtx 3000, Vega and RX 6000. Tier B For anything else. Tier C cheap/IGPU. Tier D and E avoid.

(RTX 3000/ RX 6000 Might run just fine with higher wattage tier B unit, Rtx 3070 runs fine with tier B units)

Spoiler

 

Cpu cooler tier list. Tier 1&2 for power hungry Cpus with Overclock. Tier 3&4 for overclocking Ryzen 3,5,7 or lower power Intel Cpus. Tier 5 for overclocking low end Cpus or 4/6 core Ryzen. Tier 6&7 for stock. Tier 8&9 Ryzen stock cooler performance. Do not waste your money!

Spoiler

 

Storage tier List. Tier A for Moving files/  OS. Tier B for OS/Games. Tier C for games. Tier D budget Pcs. Tier E if on sale not the worst but not good.

(With a grain of salt, I use tier C for OS myself)

Spoiler

 

Case Tier List. Work In Progress. Most Phanteks airflow series cases already done!

Ask me anything :)

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also what year was your house built? if it was built after 1999 the breakes has protections about " power fuctuations" that the breaker think are faulty thus tripping the breaker

QUOTE ME  FOR ANSWER.

 

Main PC:

Spoiler

|Ryzen 7 3700x, OC to 4.2ghz @1.3V, 67C, or 4.4ghz @1.456V, 87C || Asus strix 5700 XT, +50 core, +50 memory, +50 power (not a great overclocker) || Asus Strix b550-A || G.skill trident Z Neo rgb 32gb 3600mhz cl16-19-19-19-39, oc to 3733mhz with the same timings || Cooler Master ml360 RGB AIO || Phanteks P500A Digital || Thermaltake ToughPower grand RGB750w 80+gold || Samsung 850 250gb and Adata SX 6000 Lite 500gb || Toshiba 5400rpm 1tb || Asus Rog Theta 7.1 || Asus Rog claymore || Asus Gladius 2 origin gaming mouse || Monitor 1 Asus 1080p 144hz || Monitor 2 AOC 1080p 75hz || 

Test Rig.

Spoiler

Ryzen 5 3400G || Gigabyte b450 S2H || Hyper X fury 2x4gb 2666mhz cl 16 ||Stock cooler || Antec NX100 || Silverstone essential 400w || Transgend SSD 220s 480gb ||

Just Sold

Spoiler

| i3 9100F || Msi Gaming X gtx 1050 TI || MSI Z390 A-Pro || Kingston 1x16gb 2400mhz cl17 || Stock cooler || Kolink Horizon RGB || Corsair CV 550w || Pny CS900 120gb ||

 

Tier lists for building a PC.

 

Motherboard tier list. Tier A for overclocking 5950x. Tier B for overclocking 5900x, Tier C for overclocking 5800X. Tier D for overclocking 5600X. Tier F for 4/6 core Cpus at stock. Tier E avoid.

(Also case airflow matter or if you are using Downcraft air cooler)

Spoiler

 

Gpu tier list. Rtx 3000 and RX 6000 not included since not so many reviews. Tier S for Water cooling. Tier A and B for overcloking. Tier C stock and Tier D avoid.

( You can overclock Tier C just fine, but it can get very loud, that is why it is not recommended for overclocking, same with tier D)

Spoiler

 

Psu tier List. Tier A for Rtx 3000, Vega and RX 6000. Tier B For anything else. Tier C cheap/IGPU. Tier D and E avoid.

(RTX 3000/ RX 6000 Might run just fine with higher wattage tier B unit, Rtx 3070 runs fine with tier B units)

Spoiler

 

Cpu cooler tier list. Tier 1&2 for power hungry Cpus with Overclock. Tier 3&4 for overclocking Ryzen 3,5,7 or lower power Intel Cpus. Tier 5 for overclocking low end Cpus or 4/6 core Ryzen. Tier 6&7 for stock. Tier 8&9 Ryzen stock cooler performance. Do not waste your money!

Spoiler

 

Storage tier List. Tier A for Moving files/  OS. Tier B for OS/Games. Tier C for games. Tier D budget Pcs. Tier E if on sale not the worst but not good.

(With a grain of salt, I use tier C for OS myself)

Spoiler

 

Case Tier List. Work In Progress. Most Phanteks airflow series cases already done!

Ask me anything :)

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There is a chance that there is a short within the power supply, or a bad power cable. I’d recommend trying first a plug on a different breaker to rule out current overload (very unlikely). Secondly I’d try a different power cord. If both don’t solve the issue it is likely to be an internal short in the PSU. In that case replace it, probably covered under warranty.

Main Rig: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 9 3950X Processor (Stock, -0.1V offset)  /// Motherboard: Asus Pro WS X570-Ace /// CPU Cooler: Deepcool GamerStorm Castle 360 RGB V2 /// GPU: Gigabyte AORUS GeForce® RTX 2080 SUPER™ 8G /// RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V 128GB (4x32GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R6 USB-C Blackout TG /// PSU: Corsair RM850i /// Storage: 500GB Samsung 970 EVO Plus NVMe (boot) + 1TB WD Black SN750 NVMe (Working Drive) + 2x 1TB Samsung 850 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD RAID0 (Game Library) + 2TB Seagate BarraCuda (Backup) /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Peripherals (Main Rig): Mouse: Logitech MX Master 3 + Logitech G903 Lightspeed /// Keyboard: Keychron Q1 ANSI - JWK Lavender Linear Switches (TX Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Durock V2 Stabilisers, Polycarbonate Plate, Tape Mod, GMK Blue Samurai + Keychron K4 V2 Hotswap RGB Aluminum Frame - Gateron Milky Black (Deskeys Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Foam Mod, Tape Mod, GMK Rainy Day PBT Clones /// Tablet: Wacom Intuos M BT /// Monitor: 4x LG 27UL500-W (4K IPS Freesync) /// DAC: Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 /// Speakers: Logitech Z625 /// Mic: Focusrite CM25 MkII /// Headphones: Audio-Technica ATH-M50x, ATH-LS70iS IEMs /// Racing Wheel: Logitech G920 Driving Force with Shifter /// Eye Tracker: Steelseries Sentry  /// External Drives: 500GB Samsung T5 SSD (Working Drive)

 

Home Server - NASty: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 7 2700x Processor /// Motherboard: Asus PRIME X470-Pro  /// CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 /// GPU: Gigabyte GeForce® GT 1030 OC 2G /// RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 64GB (4x16GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R5 Window /// PSU: Corsair RM750x /// Storage: LSI SAS 9211-8i (IT Mode) + 10x 4TB Seagate Exos Enterprise Drive /// OS: UNRaid

 

Tester Rig: CPU: AMD Athlon™ 200GE Processor /// Motherboard: Asus ROG Crosshair VI Hero WIFI  /// CPU Cooler: AMD Wraith Prism RGB /// GPU: Palit GeForce® GTX 1050 2GB StromX /// RAM: Klevv Bolt 8GB (1x8GB) 3000Mhz CL15 /// Chassis: The AMAZING $30 "Computer Case"! /// PSU: Seasonic Focus GX-750 /// Storage: 1TB Samsung 860 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD + 240GB Transcend SSD220S 2.5" SATA SSD /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Laptop (Asus UX430UN): CPU: Intel® Core™ i7-8550U Processor  /// GPU: NVIDIA GeForce MX150 /// RAM: 16GB 2133Mhz /// Storage: 512GB SanDisk SD8SN8U512G1002 (boot) /// OS: Windows 10 Home

 

Other Tech: Console: Xbox One S 1TB, Apple TV 4K /// Printer: Canon imageCLASS MF635Cx /// Phone: Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 256GB Graphite (Daily Driver)  /// Tablet: Apple iPad 9.7-inch Wi-Fi (2018) 32GB + Apple Pencil (1st Generation) /// Headphones: Apple Airpods Pro, Sony WF-1000XM3, Sony WH-1000XM3 /// Smartwatch: Apple Watch Series 6 GPS Space Grey

 

Cameras: Bodies: Canon EOS-1D X Mark II, Canon EOS 5D Mark IV,  Sony A6000 /// Lenses: Canon EF 24-70mm F/2.8L USM, Canon EF 16-35mm F/2.8L II USM, Canon EF 70-200mm F/2.8L IS II USM, Tamron SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3 Di VC USD G2 (Canon), Sony SEL-P1650 E 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 PZ OSS /// Lighting: 2x Godox SL60-W Continuous LED, 2x Canon Speedlite 580EXII /// Tripods: Leofoto LS-324C Carbon Fiber Tripod + Leofoto LH-40 Ballhead, Leofoto MC-80 Multipurpose Clamp, Triopo DG-3 Gimbal Head /// Yes, I am a Canon Fanboy, deal with it

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Just now, berberries said:

There is a chance that there is a short within the power supply, or a bad power cable. I’d recommend trying first a plug on a different breaker to rule out current overload (very unlikely). Secondly I’d try a different power cord. If both don’t solve the issue it is likely to be an internal short in the PSU. In that case replace it, probably covered under warranty.

If only I could find the receipt

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1 minute ago, swp said:

I live in a flat, not sure.

so you could try to move the pc to other side of the flat, if it still trips the breaker, might test another psu, if it still fails, might be worth to call an electrician

QUOTE ME  FOR ANSWER.

 

Main PC:

Spoiler

|Ryzen 7 3700x, OC to 4.2ghz @1.3V, 67C, or 4.4ghz @1.456V, 87C || Asus strix 5700 XT, +50 core, +50 memory, +50 power (not a great overclocker) || Asus Strix b550-A || G.skill trident Z Neo rgb 32gb 3600mhz cl16-19-19-19-39, oc to 3733mhz with the same timings || Cooler Master ml360 RGB AIO || Phanteks P500A Digital || Thermaltake ToughPower grand RGB750w 80+gold || Samsung 850 250gb and Adata SX 6000 Lite 500gb || Toshiba 5400rpm 1tb || Asus Rog Theta 7.1 || Asus Rog claymore || Asus Gladius 2 origin gaming mouse || Monitor 1 Asus 1080p 144hz || Monitor 2 AOC 1080p 75hz || 

Test Rig.

Spoiler

Ryzen 5 3400G || Gigabyte b450 S2H || Hyper X fury 2x4gb 2666mhz cl 16 ||Stock cooler || Antec NX100 || Silverstone essential 400w || Transgend SSD 220s 480gb ||

Just Sold

Spoiler

| i3 9100F || Msi Gaming X gtx 1050 TI || MSI Z390 A-Pro || Kingston 1x16gb 2400mhz cl17 || Stock cooler || Kolink Horizon RGB || Corsair CV 550w || Pny CS900 120gb ||

 

Tier lists for building a PC.

 

Motherboard tier list. Tier A for overclocking 5950x. Tier B for overclocking 5900x, Tier C for overclocking 5800X. Tier D for overclocking 5600X. Tier F for 4/6 core Cpus at stock. Tier E avoid.

(Also case airflow matter or if you are using Downcraft air cooler)

Spoiler

 

Gpu tier list. Rtx 3000 and RX 6000 not included since not so many reviews. Tier S for Water cooling. Tier A and B for overcloking. Tier C stock and Tier D avoid.

( You can overclock Tier C just fine, but it can get very loud, that is why it is not recommended for overclocking, same with tier D)

Spoiler

 

Psu tier List. Tier A for Rtx 3000, Vega and RX 6000. Tier B For anything else. Tier C cheap/IGPU. Tier D and E avoid.

(RTX 3000/ RX 6000 Might run just fine with higher wattage tier B unit, Rtx 3070 runs fine with tier B units)

Spoiler

 

Cpu cooler tier list. Tier 1&2 for power hungry Cpus with Overclock. Tier 3&4 for overclocking Ryzen 3,5,7 or lower power Intel Cpus. Tier 5 for overclocking low end Cpus or 4/6 core Ryzen. Tier 6&7 for stock. Tier 8&9 Ryzen stock cooler performance. Do not waste your money!

Spoiler

 

Storage tier List. Tier A for Moving files/  OS. Tier B for OS/Games. Tier C for games. Tier D budget Pcs. Tier E if on sale not the worst but not good.

(With a grain of salt, I use tier C for OS myself)

Spoiler

 

Case Tier List. Work In Progress. Most Phanteks airflow series cases already done!

Ask me anything :)

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Obviously, you did something wrong. Watch this LTT video for proper building instructions:

 

BTW, make sure you don't get your PCIe and CPU plugs mixed up. They don't have the same connections and will cause a direct short if you plug it into the wrong socket.

 

Furthermore, closely inspect your mains cable, it might be faulty. If you see copper, cut the connectors from the cable and throw the remains away! Seriously, you're putting yourself and others at risk if that damaged cable doesn't get sorted (i.e. thrown out).

 

Next, assuming the mains cable is OK, disconnect everything from the PSU inside the PC. Then switch on the power on the PSU. If the breaker trips, request RMA on the PSU, remove said PSU from your PC and do not use it again! If the breaker doesn't trip, switch the PSU off, then reconnect the basics: 24-pin connector, the 8-pin CPU connector (it has 4 yellow and 4 black cables) and the drive with the OS on it. See if you can get a cheap, low power GPU in the system that doesn't need additional power, like an nVidia GT710 or even older. If you only have your normal GPU, make sure you connect the GPU power wire to it, it has 3 yellow and 3 black wires.

"You don't need eyes to see, you need vision"

 

(Faithless, 'Reverence' from the 1996 Reverence album)

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1 minute ago, swp said:

If only I could find the receipt

where did you buy it from? onlise stoes store your bying histroy, there is the receipt.

 

if you bought the psu from a local store, you could tell them the day ytou bought it (around), what time (around what time) and tell them what you bought, adn see if they have a receipt for you

QUOTE ME  FOR ANSWER.

 

Main PC:

Spoiler

|Ryzen 7 3700x, OC to 4.2ghz @1.3V, 67C, or 4.4ghz @1.456V, 87C || Asus strix 5700 XT, +50 core, +50 memory, +50 power (not a great overclocker) || Asus Strix b550-A || G.skill trident Z Neo rgb 32gb 3600mhz cl16-19-19-19-39, oc to 3733mhz with the same timings || Cooler Master ml360 RGB AIO || Phanteks P500A Digital || Thermaltake ToughPower grand RGB750w 80+gold || Samsung 850 250gb and Adata SX 6000 Lite 500gb || Toshiba 5400rpm 1tb || Asus Rog Theta 7.1 || Asus Rog claymore || Asus Gladius 2 origin gaming mouse || Monitor 1 Asus 1080p 144hz || Monitor 2 AOC 1080p 75hz || 

Test Rig.

Spoiler

Ryzen 5 3400G || Gigabyte b450 S2H || Hyper X fury 2x4gb 2666mhz cl 16 ||Stock cooler || Antec NX100 || Silverstone essential 400w || Transgend SSD 220s 480gb ||

Just Sold

Spoiler

| i3 9100F || Msi Gaming X gtx 1050 TI || MSI Z390 A-Pro || Kingston 1x16gb 2400mhz cl17 || Stock cooler || Kolink Horizon RGB || Corsair CV 550w || Pny CS900 120gb ||

 

Tier lists for building a PC.

 

Motherboard tier list. Tier A for overclocking 5950x. Tier B for overclocking 5900x, Tier C for overclocking 5800X. Tier D for overclocking 5600X. Tier F for 4/6 core Cpus at stock. Tier E avoid.

(Also case airflow matter or if you are using Downcraft air cooler)

Spoiler

 

Gpu tier list. Rtx 3000 and RX 6000 not included since not so many reviews. Tier S for Water cooling. Tier A and B for overcloking. Tier C stock and Tier D avoid.

( You can overclock Tier C just fine, but it can get very loud, that is why it is not recommended for overclocking, same with tier D)

Spoiler

 

Psu tier List. Tier A for Rtx 3000, Vega and RX 6000. Tier B For anything else. Tier C cheap/IGPU. Tier D and E avoid.

(RTX 3000/ RX 6000 Might run just fine with higher wattage tier B unit, Rtx 3070 runs fine with tier B units)

Spoiler

 

Cpu cooler tier list. Tier 1&2 for power hungry Cpus with Overclock. Tier 3&4 for overclocking Ryzen 3,5,7 or lower power Intel Cpus. Tier 5 for overclocking low end Cpus or 4/6 core Ryzen. Tier 6&7 for stock. Tier 8&9 Ryzen stock cooler performance. Do not waste your money!

Spoiler

 

Storage tier List. Tier A for Moving files/  OS. Tier B for OS/Games. Tier C for games. Tier D budget Pcs. Tier E if on sale not the worst but not good.

(With a grain of salt, I use tier C for OS myself)

Spoiler

 

Case Tier List. Work In Progress. Most Phanteks airflow series cases already done!

Ask me anything :)

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2 minutes ago, Dutch_Master said:

Obviously, you did something wrong

mayby not, breaker tripping probably is not a user issue, it might be faulty psu making too much RF noice, or faulty breaker, or too much on the same breaker etc, wiring somethign wrong in yyour pc does not trip the breaker, it kill the psu

QUOTE ME  FOR ANSWER.

 

Main PC:

Spoiler

|Ryzen 7 3700x, OC to 4.2ghz @1.3V, 67C, or 4.4ghz @1.456V, 87C || Asus strix 5700 XT, +50 core, +50 memory, +50 power (not a great overclocker) || Asus Strix b550-A || G.skill trident Z Neo rgb 32gb 3600mhz cl16-19-19-19-39, oc to 3733mhz with the same timings || Cooler Master ml360 RGB AIO || Phanteks P500A Digital || Thermaltake ToughPower grand RGB750w 80+gold || Samsung 850 250gb and Adata SX 6000 Lite 500gb || Toshiba 5400rpm 1tb || Asus Rog Theta 7.1 || Asus Rog claymore || Asus Gladius 2 origin gaming mouse || Monitor 1 Asus 1080p 144hz || Monitor 2 AOC 1080p 75hz || 

Test Rig.

Spoiler

Ryzen 5 3400G || Gigabyte b450 S2H || Hyper X fury 2x4gb 2666mhz cl 16 ||Stock cooler || Antec NX100 || Silverstone essential 400w || Transgend SSD 220s 480gb ||

Just Sold

Spoiler

| i3 9100F || Msi Gaming X gtx 1050 TI || MSI Z390 A-Pro || Kingston 1x16gb 2400mhz cl17 || Stock cooler || Kolink Horizon RGB || Corsair CV 550w || Pny CS900 120gb ||

 

Tier lists for building a PC.

 

Motherboard tier list. Tier A for overclocking 5950x. Tier B for overclocking 5900x, Tier C for overclocking 5800X. Tier D for overclocking 5600X. Tier F for 4/6 core Cpus at stock. Tier E avoid.

(Also case airflow matter or if you are using Downcraft air cooler)

Spoiler

 

Gpu tier list. Rtx 3000 and RX 6000 not included since not so many reviews. Tier S for Water cooling. Tier A and B for overcloking. Tier C stock and Tier D avoid.

( You can overclock Tier C just fine, but it can get very loud, that is why it is not recommended for overclocking, same with tier D)

Spoiler

 

Psu tier List. Tier A for Rtx 3000, Vega and RX 6000. Tier B For anything else. Tier C cheap/IGPU. Tier D and E avoid.

(RTX 3000/ RX 6000 Might run just fine with higher wattage tier B unit, Rtx 3070 runs fine with tier B units)

Spoiler

 

Cpu cooler tier list. Tier 1&2 for power hungry Cpus with Overclock. Tier 3&4 for overclocking Ryzen 3,5,7 or lower power Intel Cpus. Tier 5 for overclocking low end Cpus or 4/6 core Ryzen. Tier 6&7 for stock. Tier 8&9 Ryzen stock cooler performance. Do not waste your money!

Spoiler

 

Storage tier List. Tier A for Moving files/  OS. Tier B for OS/Games. Tier C for games. Tier D budget Pcs. Tier E if on sale not the worst but not good.

(With a grain of salt, I use tier C for OS myself)

Spoiler

 

Case Tier List. Work In Progress. Most Phanteks airflow series cases already done!

Ask me anything :)

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3 minutes ago, Dutch_Master said:

Obviously, you did something wrong. Watch this LTT video for proper building instructions:

 

BTW, make sure you don't get your PCIe and CPU plugs mixed up. They don't have the same connections and will cause a direct short if you plug it into the wrong socket.

 

Furthermore, closely inspect your mains cable, it might be faulty. If you see copper, cut the connectors from the cable and throw the remains away! Seriously, you're putting yourself and others at risk if that damaged cable doesn't get sorted (i.e. thrown out).

 

Next, assuming the mains cable is OK, disconnect everything from the PSU inside the PC. Then switch on the power on the PSU. If the breaker trips, request RMA on the PSU, remove said PSU from your PC and do not use it again! If the breaker doesn't trip, switch the PSU off, then reconnect the basics: 24-pin connector, the 8-pin CPU connector (it has 4 yellow and 4 black cables) and the drive with the OS on it. See if you can get a cheap, low power GPU in the system that doesn't need additional power, like an nVidia GT710 or even older. If you only have your normal GPU, make sure you connect the GPU power wire to it, it has 3 yellow and 3 black wires.

I don't think I messed up the CPU thing. It says 12V_ATX under the connector. I unplugged the PSU and turned it on (no pop)

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Just now, swp said:

I don't think I messed up the CPU thing. It says 12V_ATX under the connector. I unplugged the PSU and turned it on (no pop)

https://www.silverstonetek.com/downloads/QA/PSU/PSU-Paper Clip-EN.pdf

 

could you follow this guide and perform the paper clip test on the PSU

Main Rig: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 9 3950X Processor (Stock, -0.1V offset)  /// Motherboard: Asus Pro WS X570-Ace /// CPU Cooler: Deepcool GamerStorm Castle 360 RGB V2 /// GPU: Gigabyte AORUS GeForce® RTX 2080 SUPER™ 8G /// RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V 128GB (4x32GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R6 USB-C Blackout TG /// PSU: Corsair RM850i /// Storage: 500GB Samsung 970 EVO Plus NVMe (boot) + 1TB WD Black SN750 NVMe (Working Drive) + 2x 1TB Samsung 850 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD RAID0 (Game Library) + 2TB Seagate BarraCuda (Backup) /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Peripherals (Main Rig): Mouse: Logitech MX Master 3 + Logitech G903 Lightspeed /// Keyboard: Keychron Q1 ANSI - JWK Lavender Linear Switches (TX Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Durock V2 Stabilisers, Polycarbonate Plate, Tape Mod, GMK Blue Samurai + Keychron K4 V2 Hotswap RGB Aluminum Frame - Gateron Milky Black (Deskeys Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Foam Mod, Tape Mod, GMK Rainy Day PBT Clones /// Tablet: Wacom Intuos M BT /// Monitor: 4x LG 27UL500-W (4K IPS Freesync) /// DAC: Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 /// Speakers: Logitech Z625 /// Mic: Focusrite CM25 MkII /// Headphones: Audio-Technica ATH-M50x, ATH-LS70iS IEMs /// Racing Wheel: Logitech G920 Driving Force with Shifter /// Eye Tracker: Steelseries Sentry  /// External Drives: 500GB Samsung T5 SSD (Working Drive)

 

Home Server - NASty: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 7 2700x Processor /// Motherboard: Asus PRIME X470-Pro  /// CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 /// GPU: Gigabyte GeForce® GT 1030 OC 2G /// RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 64GB (4x16GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R5 Window /// PSU: Corsair RM750x /// Storage: LSI SAS 9211-8i (IT Mode) + 10x 4TB Seagate Exos Enterprise Drive /// OS: UNRaid

 

Tester Rig: CPU: AMD Athlon™ 200GE Processor /// Motherboard: Asus ROG Crosshair VI Hero WIFI  /// CPU Cooler: AMD Wraith Prism RGB /// GPU: Palit GeForce® GTX 1050 2GB StromX /// RAM: Klevv Bolt 8GB (1x8GB) 3000Mhz CL15 /// Chassis: The AMAZING $30 "Computer Case"! /// PSU: Seasonic Focus GX-750 /// Storage: 1TB Samsung 860 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD + 240GB Transcend SSD220S 2.5" SATA SSD /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Laptop (Asus UX430UN): CPU: Intel® Core™ i7-8550U Processor  /// GPU: NVIDIA GeForce MX150 /// RAM: 16GB 2133Mhz /// Storage: 512GB SanDisk SD8SN8U512G1002 (boot) /// OS: Windows 10 Home

 

Other Tech: Console: Xbox One S 1TB, Apple TV 4K /// Printer: Canon imageCLASS MF635Cx /// Phone: Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 256GB Graphite (Daily Driver)  /// Tablet: Apple iPad 9.7-inch Wi-Fi (2018) 32GB + Apple Pencil (1st Generation) /// Headphones: Apple Airpods Pro, Sony WF-1000XM3, Sony WH-1000XM3 /// Smartwatch: Apple Watch Series 6 GPS Space Grey

 

Cameras: Bodies: Canon EOS-1D X Mark II, Canon EOS 5D Mark IV,  Sony A6000 /// Lenses: Canon EF 24-70mm F/2.8L USM, Canon EF 16-35mm F/2.8L II USM, Canon EF 70-200mm F/2.8L IS II USM, Tamron SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3 Di VC USD G2 (Canon), Sony SEL-P1650 E 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 PZ OSS /// Lighting: 2x Godox SL60-W Continuous LED, 2x Canon Speedlite 580EXII /// Tripods: Leofoto LS-324C Carbon Fiber Tripod + Leofoto LH-40 Ballhead, Leofoto MC-80 Multipurpose Clamp, Triopo DG-3 Gimbal Head /// Yes, I am a Canon Fanboy, deal with it

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2 minutes ago, swp said:

I don't think I messed up the CPU thing. It says 12V_ATX under the connector. I unplugged the PSU and turned it on (no pop)

also, have you inspected the mains cable for any damage and tried a different one. the psu isn’t truly “on” until minimally the paper clip test is performed.

 

9 minutes ago, Dutch_Master said:

Furthermore, closely inspect your mains cable, it might be faulty. If you see copper, cut the connectors from the cable and throw the remains away! Seriously, you're putting yourself and others at risk if that damaged cable doesn't get sorted (i.e. thrown out).

this is wholeheartedly agree with. if your mains cable is damaged CUT THE CONNECTORS AWAY for the safety of others and throw them in the trash.

Main Rig: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 9 3950X Processor (Stock, -0.1V offset)  /// Motherboard: Asus Pro WS X570-Ace /// CPU Cooler: Deepcool GamerStorm Castle 360 RGB V2 /// GPU: Gigabyte AORUS GeForce® RTX 2080 SUPER™ 8G /// RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V 128GB (4x32GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R6 USB-C Blackout TG /// PSU: Corsair RM850i /// Storage: 500GB Samsung 970 EVO Plus NVMe (boot) + 1TB WD Black SN750 NVMe (Working Drive) + 2x 1TB Samsung 850 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD RAID0 (Game Library) + 2TB Seagate BarraCuda (Backup) /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Peripherals (Main Rig): Mouse: Logitech MX Master 3 + Logitech G903 Lightspeed /// Keyboard: Keychron Q1 ANSI - JWK Lavender Linear Switches (TX Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Durock V2 Stabilisers, Polycarbonate Plate, Tape Mod, GMK Blue Samurai + Keychron K4 V2 Hotswap RGB Aluminum Frame - Gateron Milky Black (Deskeys Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Foam Mod, Tape Mod, GMK Rainy Day PBT Clones /// Tablet: Wacom Intuos M BT /// Monitor: 4x LG 27UL500-W (4K IPS Freesync) /// DAC: Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 /// Speakers: Logitech Z625 /// Mic: Focusrite CM25 MkII /// Headphones: Audio-Technica ATH-M50x, ATH-LS70iS IEMs /// Racing Wheel: Logitech G920 Driving Force with Shifter /// Eye Tracker: Steelseries Sentry  /// External Drives: 500GB Samsung T5 SSD (Working Drive)

 

Home Server - NASty: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 7 2700x Processor /// Motherboard: Asus PRIME X470-Pro  /// CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 /// GPU: Gigabyte GeForce® GT 1030 OC 2G /// RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 64GB (4x16GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R5 Window /// PSU: Corsair RM750x /// Storage: LSI SAS 9211-8i (IT Mode) + 10x 4TB Seagate Exos Enterprise Drive /// OS: UNRaid

 

Tester Rig: CPU: AMD Athlon™ 200GE Processor /// Motherboard: Asus ROG Crosshair VI Hero WIFI  /// CPU Cooler: AMD Wraith Prism RGB /// GPU: Palit GeForce® GTX 1050 2GB StromX /// RAM: Klevv Bolt 8GB (1x8GB) 3000Mhz CL15 /// Chassis: The AMAZING $30 "Computer Case"! /// PSU: Seasonic Focus GX-750 /// Storage: 1TB Samsung 860 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD + 240GB Transcend SSD220S 2.5" SATA SSD /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Laptop (Asus UX430UN): CPU: Intel® Core™ i7-8550U Processor  /// GPU: NVIDIA GeForce MX150 /// RAM: 16GB 2133Mhz /// Storage: 512GB SanDisk SD8SN8U512G1002 (boot) /// OS: Windows 10 Home

 

Other Tech: Console: Xbox One S 1TB, Apple TV 4K /// Printer: Canon imageCLASS MF635Cx /// Phone: Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 256GB Graphite (Daily Driver)  /// Tablet: Apple iPad 9.7-inch Wi-Fi (2018) 32GB + Apple Pencil (1st Generation) /// Headphones: Apple Airpods Pro, Sony WF-1000XM3, Sony WH-1000XM3 /// Smartwatch: Apple Watch Series 6 GPS Space Grey

 

Cameras: Bodies: Canon EOS-1D X Mark II, Canon EOS 5D Mark IV,  Sony A6000 /// Lenses: Canon EF 24-70mm F/2.8L USM, Canon EF 16-35mm F/2.8L II USM, Canon EF 70-200mm F/2.8L IS II USM, Tamron SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3 Di VC USD G2 (Canon), Sony SEL-P1650 E 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 PZ OSS /// Lighting: 2x Godox SL60-W Continuous LED, 2x Canon Speedlite 580EXII /// Tripods: Leofoto LS-324C Carbon Fiber Tripod + Leofoto LH-40 Ballhead, Leofoto MC-80 Multipurpose Clamp, Triopo DG-3 Gimbal Head /// Yes, I am a Canon Fanboy, deal with it

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There's no damage on the cable and I'll do the paper clip thing tomorrow.

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12 minutes ago, swp said:

If only I could find the receipt

online purchases have a purchase history. if you bought it at a local computer store, you could try calling them up letting them know that you lost your receipt and ask them if they can bring up an old receipt. as long as it is not too long ago and they haven’t cleared the reciept logs for some reason (very unlikely to clear unless a change in system etc) it is very likely they will be able to print you a copy.

Main Rig: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 9 3950X Processor (Stock, -0.1V offset)  /// Motherboard: Asus Pro WS X570-Ace /// CPU Cooler: Deepcool GamerStorm Castle 360 RGB V2 /// GPU: Gigabyte AORUS GeForce® RTX 2080 SUPER™ 8G /// RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V 128GB (4x32GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R6 USB-C Blackout TG /// PSU: Corsair RM850i /// Storage: 500GB Samsung 970 EVO Plus NVMe (boot) + 1TB WD Black SN750 NVMe (Working Drive) + 2x 1TB Samsung 850 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD RAID0 (Game Library) + 2TB Seagate BarraCuda (Backup) /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Peripherals (Main Rig): Mouse: Logitech MX Master 3 + Logitech G903 Lightspeed /// Keyboard: Keychron Q1 ANSI - JWK Lavender Linear Switches (TX Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Durock V2 Stabilisers, Polycarbonate Plate, Tape Mod, GMK Blue Samurai + Keychron K4 V2 Hotswap RGB Aluminum Frame - Gateron Milky Black (Deskeys Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Foam Mod, Tape Mod, GMK Rainy Day PBT Clones /// Tablet: Wacom Intuos M BT /// Monitor: 4x LG 27UL500-W (4K IPS Freesync) /// DAC: Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 /// Speakers: Logitech Z625 /// Mic: Focusrite CM25 MkII /// Headphones: Audio-Technica ATH-M50x, ATH-LS70iS IEMs /// Racing Wheel: Logitech G920 Driving Force with Shifter /// Eye Tracker: Steelseries Sentry  /// External Drives: 500GB Samsung T5 SSD (Working Drive)

 

Home Server - NASty: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 7 2700x Processor /// Motherboard: Asus PRIME X470-Pro  /// CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 /// GPU: Gigabyte GeForce® GT 1030 OC 2G /// RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 64GB (4x16GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R5 Window /// PSU: Corsair RM750x /// Storage: LSI SAS 9211-8i (IT Mode) + 10x 4TB Seagate Exos Enterprise Drive /// OS: UNRaid

 

Tester Rig: CPU: AMD Athlon™ 200GE Processor /// Motherboard: Asus ROG Crosshair VI Hero WIFI  /// CPU Cooler: AMD Wraith Prism RGB /// GPU: Palit GeForce® GTX 1050 2GB StromX /// RAM: Klevv Bolt 8GB (1x8GB) 3000Mhz CL15 /// Chassis: The AMAZING $30 "Computer Case"! /// PSU: Seasonic Focus GX-750 /// Storage: 1TB Samsung 860 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD + 240GB Transcend SSD220S 2.5" SATA SSD /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Laptop (Asus UX430UN): CPU: Intel® Core™ i7-8550U Processor  /// GPU: NVIDIA GeForce MX150 /// RAM: 16GB 2133Mhz /// Storage: 512GB SanDisk SD8SN8U512G1002 (boot) /// OS: Windows 10 Home

 

Other Tech: Console: Xbox One S 1TB, Apple TV 4K /// Printer: Canon imageCLASS MF635Cx /// Phone: Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 256GB Graphite (Daily Driver)  /// Tablet: Apple iPad 9.7-inch Wi-Fi (2018) 32GB + Apple Pencil (1st Generation) /// Headphones: Apple Airpods Pro, Sony WF-1000XM3, Sony WH-1000XM3 /// Smartwatch: Apple Watch Series 6 GPS Space Grey

 

Cameras: Bodies: Canon EOS-1D X Mark II, Canon EOS 5D Mark IV,  Sony A6000 /// Lenses: Canon EF 24-70mm F/2.8L USM, Canon EF 16-35mm F/2.8L II USM, Canon EF 70-200mm F/2.8L IS II USM, Tamron SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3 Di VC USD G2 (Canon), Sony SEL-P1650 E 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 PZ OSS /// Lighting: 2x Godox SL60-W Continuous LED, 2x Canon Speedlite 580EXII /// Tripods: Leofoto LS-324C Carbon Fiber Tripod + Leofoto LH-40 Ballhead, Leofoto MC-80 Multipurpose Clamp, Triopo DG-3 Gimbal Head /// Yes, I am a Canon Fanboy, deal with it

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Just now, swp said:

There's no damage on the cable and I'll do the paper clip thing tomorrow.

do quote us in replies by using the arrow you see on the bottom of our replies. otherwise we will not see your reply

Main Rig: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 9 3950X Processor (Stock, -0.1V offset)  /// Motherboard: Asus Pro WS X570-Ace /// CPU Cooler: Deepcool GamerStorm Castle 360 RGB V2 /// GPU: Gigabyte AORUS GeForce® RTX 2080 SUPER™ 8G /// RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V 128GB (4x32GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R6 USB-C Blackout TG /// PSU: Corsair RM850i /// Storage: 500GB Samsung 970 EVO Plus NVMe (boot) + 1TB WD Black SN750 NVMe (Working Drive) + 2x 1TB Samsung 850 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD RAID0 (Game Library) + 2TB Seagate BarraCuda (Backup) /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Peripherals (Main Rig): Mouse: Logitech MX Master 3 + Logitech G903 Lightspeed /// Keyboard: Keychron Q1 ANSI - JWK Lavender Linear Switches (TX Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Durock V2 Stabilisers, Polycarbonate Plate, Tape Mod, GMK Blue Samurai + Keychron K4 V2 Hotswap RGB Aluminum Frame - Gateron Milky Black (Deskeys Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Foam Mod, Tape Mod, GMK Rainy Day PBT Clones /// Tablet: Wacom Intuos M BT /// Monitor: 4x LG 27UL500-W (4K IPS Freesync) /// DAC: Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 /// Speakers: Logitech Z625 /// Mic: Focusrite CM25 MkII /// Headphones: Audio-Technica ATH-M50x, ATH-LS70iS IEMs /// Racing Wheel: Logitech G920 Driving Force with Shifter /// Eye Tracker: Steelseries Sentry  /// External Drives: 500GB Samsung T5 SSD (Working Drive)

 

Home Server - NASty: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 7 2700x Processor /// Motherboard: Asus PRIME X470-Pro  /// CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 /// GPU: Gigabyte GeForce® GT 1030 OC 2G /// RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 64GB (4x16GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R5 Window /// PSU: Corsair RM750x /// Storage: LSI SAS 9211-8i (IT Mode) + 10x 4TB Seagate Exos Enterprise Drive /// OS: UNRaid

 

Tester Rig: CPU: AMD Athlon™ 200GE Processor /// Motherboard: Asus ROG Crosshair VI Hero WIFI  /// CPU Cooler: AMD Wraith Prism RGB /// GPU: Palit GeForce® GTX 1050 2GB StromX /// RAM: Klevv Bolt 8GB (1x8GB) 3000Mhz CL15 /// Chassis: The AMAZING $30 "Computer Case"! /// PSU: Seasonic Focus GX-750 /// Storage: 1TB Samsung 860 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD + 240GB Transcend SSD220S 2.5" SATA SSD /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Laptop (Asus UX430UN): CPU: Intel® Core™ i7-8550U Processor  /// GPU: NVIDIA GeForce MX150 /// RAM: 16GB 2133Mhz /// Storage: 512GB SanDisk SD8SN8U512G1002 (boot) /// OS: Windows 10 Home

 

Other Tech: Console: Xbox One S 1TB, Apple TV 4K /// Printer: Canon imageCLASS MF635Cx /// Phone: Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 256GB Graphite (Daily Driver)  /// Tablet: Apple iPad 9.7-inch Wi-Fi (2018) 32GB + Apple Pencil (1st Generation) /// Headphones: Apple Airpods Pro, Sony WF-1000XM3, Sony WH-1000XM3 /// Smartwatch: Apple Watch Series 6 GPS Space Grey

 

Cameras: Bodies: Canon EOS-1D X Mark II, Canon EOS 5D Mark IV,  Sony A6000 /// Lenses: Canon EF 24-70mm F/2.8L USM, Canon EF 16-35mm F/2.8L II USM, Canon EF 70-200mm F/2.8L IS II USM, Tamron SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3 Di VC USD G2 (Canon), Sony SEL-P1650 E 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 PZ OSS /// Lighting: 2x Godox SL60-W Continuous LED, 2x Canon Speedlite 580EXII /// Tripods: Leofoto LS-324C Carbon Fiber Tripod + Leofoto LH-40 Ballhead, Leofoto MC-80 Multipurpose Clamp, Triopo DG-3 Gimbal Head /// Yes, I am a Canon Fanboy, deal with it

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2 minutes ago, berberries said:

online purchases have a purchase history. if you bought it at a local computer store, you could try calling them up letting them know that you lost your receipt and ask them if they can bring up an old receipt. as long as it is not too long ago and they haven’t cleared the reciept logs for some reason (very unlikely to clear unless a change in system etc) it is very likely they will be able to print you a copy.

I'm gonna go there tomorrow and see if they have it 

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1 minute ago, swp said:

I'm gonna go there tomorrow and see if they have it 

sounds good, goodluck 🙂 . if you’re lucky some stores do put down customers’ names or contact numbers in the invoice so they may be able to pull it up through those means too.

Main Rig: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 9 3950X Processor (Stock, -0.1V offset)  /// Motherboard: Asus Pro WS X570-Ace /// CPU Cooler: Deepcool GamerStorm Castle 360 RGB V2 /// GPU: Gigabyte AORUS GeForce® RTX 2080 SUPER™ 8G /// RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V 128GB (4x32GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R6 USB-C Blackout TG /// PSU: Corsair RM850i /// Storage: 500GB Samsung 970 EVO Plus NVMe (boot) + 1TB WD Black SN750 NVMe (Working Drive) + 2x 1TB Samsung 850 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD RAID0 (Game Library) + 2TB Seagate BarraCuda (Backup) /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Peripherals (Main Rig): Mouse: Logitech MX Master 3 + Logitech G903 Lightspeed /// Keyboard: Keychron Q1 ANSI - JWK Lavender Linear Switches (TX Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Durock V2 Stabilisers, Polycarbonate Plate, Tape Mod, GMK Blue Samurai + Keychron K4 V2 Hotswap RGB Aluminum Frame - Gateron Milky Black (Deskeys Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Foam Mod, Tape Mod, GMK Rainy Day PBT Clones /// Tablet: Wacom Intuos M BT /// Monitor: 4x LG 27UL500-W (4K IPS Freesync) /// DAC: Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 /// Speakers: Logitech Z625 /// Mic: Focusrite CM25 MkII /// Headphones: Audio-Technica ATH-M50x, ATH-LS70iS IEMs /// Racing Wheel: Logitech G920 Driving Force with Shifter /// Eye Tracker: Steelseries Sentry  /// External Drives: 500GB Samsung T5 SSD (Working Drive)

 

Home Server - NASty: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 7 2700x Processor /// Motherboard: Asus PRIME X470-Pro  /// CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 /// GPU: Gigabyte GeForce® GT 1030 OC 2G /// RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 64GB (4x16GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R5 Window /// PSU: Corsair RM750x /// Storage: LSI SAS 9211-8i (IT Mode) + 10x 4TB Seagate Exos Enterprise Drive /// OS: UNRaid

 

Tester Rig: CPU: AMD Athlon™ 200GE Processor /// Motherboard: Asus ROG Crosshair VI Hero WIFI  /// CPU Cooler: AMD Wraith Prism RGB /// GPU: Palit GeForce® GTX 1050 2GB StromX /// RAM: Klevv Bolt 8GB (1x8GB) 3000Mhz CL15 /// Chassis: The AMAZING $30 "Computer Case"! /// PSU: Seasonic Focus GX-750 /// Storage: 1TB Samsung 860 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD + 240GB Transcend SSD220S 2.5" SATA SSD /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Laptop (Asus UX430UN): CPU: Intel® Core™ i7-8550U Processor  /// GPU: NVIDIA GeForce MX150 /// RAM: 16GB 2133Mhz /// Storage: 512GB SanDisk SD8SN8U512G1002 (boot) /// OS: Windows 10 Home

 

Other Tech: Console: Xbox One S 1TB, Apple TV 4K /// Printer: Canon imageCLASS MF635Cx /// Phone: Apple iPhone 12 Pro Max 256GB Graphite (Daily Driver)  /// Tablet: Apple iPad 9.7-inch Wi-Fi (2018) 32GB + Apple Pencil (1st Generation) /// Headphones: Apple Airpods Pro, Sony WF-1000XM3, Sony WH-1000XM3 /// Smartwatch: Apple Watch Series 6 GPS Space Grey

 

Cameras: Bodies: Canon EOS-1D X Mark II, Canon EOS 5D Mark IV,  Sony A6000 /// Lenses: Canon EF 24-70mm F/2.8L USM, Canon EF 16-35mm F/2.8L II USM, Canon EF 70-200mm F/2.8L IS II USM, Tamron SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3 Di VC USD G2 (Canon), Sony SEL-P1650 E 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 PZ OSS /// Lighting: 2x Godox SL60-W Continuous LED, 2x Canon Speedlite 580EXII /// Tripods: Leofoto LS-324C Carbon Fiber Tripod + Leofoto LH-40 Ballhead, Leofoto MC-80 Multipurpose Clamp, Triopo DG-3 Gimbal Head /// Yes, I am a Canon Fanboy, deal with it

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I'm gonna go to my friends house tomorrow to see if the same thing happens or if it turns on perfectly fine.

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