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Alternatives to Mayhems Blitz Part One for cleaning radiators

Hello

 

So I'm going to be adding another Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 480 MP radiator into my system. I already have one aforementioned radiator for about a year or two now, and a 240mm version of that one. But there's a problem.

 

When I went to fill the watercooling loop, I had a bad case of what I think has to be a chemical reaction with the EK-CryoFuel clear coolant. As in all of my clear tubing is clouded, and all of my waterblocks need to be fully dismantled for manual cleaning,  fittings cleaned up, as well as replacement of all the tubing. I rinsed out the 240mm radiator with tap water and left it to dry out before installation, but didn't do anything to the existing 480mm radiator (to reiterate, I had this 480mm radiator in continuous use for a while now). I suspect that the 240mm radiator is the one to fault for this (supposed) chemical reaction.

 

So my plan is to clean all of my existing radiators with a chemical solution. Right now the one that's at the forefront of my mind is Mayhems Blitz Part One. But here in the United States, it's $15.99.

 

What are the alternatives that can get me similar results as that radiator cleaning solution?

RIGZ

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"So because they didn't give you the results you want, they're biased? You realize that makes you biased, right?" - @App4that

"Brand loyalty/fanboyism is stupid." - Unknown person on these forums

"Assuming kills" - @Moondrelor

"That's not to say that Nvidia is always better, or that AMD isn't worth owning. But the fact remains that this forum is AMD biased." - @App4that

"I'd imagine there's exceptions to this trend - but just going on mine and my acquaintances' purchase history, we've found that budget cards often require you to turn off certain features to get slick performance, even though those technologies are previous gen and should be having a negligible impact" - ace42

"2K" is not 2560 x 1440 

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Make sure to add some anti corrosive and anti bacterial stuff to the loop next time prevents this usually. Or buy a fluid with it in it already.

 

You can technically use any pipe cleaner that is compatible with the metal you use.

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37 minutes ago, jaslion said:

Make sure to add some anti corrosive and anti bacterial stuff to the loop next time prevents this usually. Or buy a fluid with it in it already.

 

You can technically use any pipe cleaner that is compatible with the metal you use.

I'm going to be putting in about 2 litres of Mayhems X1 UV Blue premix coolant, so I should be a-okay on that part.

RIGZ

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The Storm (Retired): Intel Core i7-5930K | Asus ROG STRIX GeForce GTX 1080 Ti | Asus ROG RAMPAGE V EDITION 10 | EKWB EK-KIT P360 with Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 Multiport 480 | 32GB (4x8GB) Dominator Platinum SE Blackout #338/500 | 480GB SATA 2.5" SSD + 3TB 5400 RPM NAS HDD + 8TB 7200 RPM NAS HDD | Corsair 900D | Corsair AX1200i + Black/Blue CableMod cables | Corsair ML120 2-pack 2x + NB-BlackSilentPro PL-2 x3

STRONK COOLZ 9000

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EK-Quantum Momentum X570 Aorus Master monoblock | EK-FC RTX 2080 + Ti Classic RGB Waterblock and Backplate | EK-XRES 140 D5 PWM Pump/Res Combo | 2x Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 480 MP and 1x SR2 240 MP | 10X Corsair ML120 PWM fans | A mixture of EK-KIT fittings and EK-Torque STC fittings and adapters | Mayhems 10/13mm clear tubing | Mayhems X1 Eco UV Blue coolant | Bitspower G1/4 Temperature Probe Fitting

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QUOTES

Spoiler

"So because they didn't give you the results you want, they're biased? You realize that makes you biased, right?" - @App4that

"Brand loyalty/fanboyism is stupid." - Unknown person on these forums

"Assuming kills" - @Moondrelor

"That's not to say that Nvidia is always better, or that AMD isn't worth owning. But the fact remains that this forum is AMD biased." - @App4that

"I'd imagine there's exceptions to this trend - but just going on mine and my acquaintances' purchase history, we've found that budget cards often require you to turn off certain features to get slick performance, even though those technologies are previous gen and should be having a negligible impact" - ace42

"2K" is not 2560 x 1440 

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You can try the DIY method.

 

(shake well with each step)

 

Fill with hot water (boiled 1st preferably), let it sit for 5 minutes, then empty

then

Fill them with Vinegar, preferably white as it makes it easier to see whats coming out (brown works to though). Let them sit for 5-10 minutes. Then empty and flush with water.

then

Make a solution of water + baking soda (make sure its fully dissolved), fill the rads shake well and empty.

then

Flush with running water (can be tap water) a few times

then

Final flush with distilled making sure whats coming out is clear with no particulates.

 

I've done this myself, it works.

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5 minutes ago, SolarNova said:

You can try the DIY method.

 

(shake well with each step)

 

Fill with hot water (boiled 1st preferably), let it sit for 5 minutes, then empty

then

Fill them with Vinegar, preferably white as it makes it easier to see whats coming out (brown works to though). Let them sit for 5-10 minutes. Then empty and flush with water.

then

Make a solution of water + baking soda (make sure its fully dissolved), fill the rads shake well and empty.

then

Flush with running water (can be tap water) a few times

then

Final flush with distilled making sure whats coming out is clear with no particulates.

 

I've done this myself, it works.

I'll try those methods out and report back on what came out of both radiators 🙂

RIGZ

Spoiler

Starlight (Current): AMD Ryzen 9 3900X 12-core CPU | EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti Black Edition | Gigabyte X570 Aorus Ultra | Full Custom Loop | 32GB (4x8GB) Dominator Platinum SE Blackout #338/500 | 1TB + 2TB M.2 NVMe PCIe 4.0 SSDs, 480GB SATA 2.5" SSD, 8TB 7200 RPM NAS HDD | EVGA NU Audio | Corsair 900D | Corsair AX1200i | Corsair ML120 2-pack 5x + ML140 2-pack

 

The Storm (Retired): Intel Core i7-5930K | Asus ROG STRIX GeForce GTX 1080 Ti | Asus ROG RAMPAGE V EDITION 10 | EKWB EK-KIT P360 with Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 Multiport 480 | 32GB (4x8GB) Dominator Platinum SE Blackout #338/500 | 480GB SATA 2.5" SSD + 3TB 5400 RPM NAS HDD + 8TB 7200 RPM NAS HDD | Corsair 900D | Corsair AX1200i + Black/Blue CableMod cables | Corsair ML120 2-pack 2x + NB-BlackSilentPro PL-2 x3

STRONK COOLZ 9000

Spoiler

EK-Quantum Momentum X570 Aorus Master monoblock | EK-FC RTX 2080 + Ti Classic RGB Waterblock and Backplate | EK-XRES 140 D5 PWM Pump/Res Combo | 2x Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 480 MP and 1x SR2 240 MP | 10X Corsair ML120 PWM fans | A mixture of EK-KIT fittings and EK-Torque STC fittings and adapters | Mayhems 10/13mm clear tubing | Mayhems X1 Eco UV Blue coolant | Bitspower G1/4 Temperature Probe Fitting

DESK TOIS

Spoiler

Glorious Modular Mechanical Keyboard | Glorious Model D Featherweight Mouse | 2x BenQ PD3200Q 32" 1440p IPS displays + BenQ BL3200PT 32" 1440p VA display | Mackie ProFX10v3 USB Mixer + Marantz MPM-1000 Mic | Sennheiser HD 598 SE Headphones | 2x ADAM Audio T5V 5" Powered Studio Monitors + ADAM Audio T10S Powered Studio Subwoofer | Logitech G920 Driving Force Steering Wheel and Pedal Kit + Driving Force Shifter | Logitech C922x 720p 60FPS Webcam | Xbox One Wireless Controller

QUOTES

Spoiler

"So because they didn't give you the results you want, they're biased? You realize that makes you biased, right?" - @App4that

"Brand loyalty/fanboyism is stupid." - Unknown person on these forums

"Assuming kills" - @Moondrelor

"That's not to say that Nvidia is always better, or that AMD isn't worth owning. But the fact remains that this forum is AMD biased." - @App4that

"I'd imagine there's exceptions to this trend - but just going on mine and my acquaintances' purchase history, we've found that budget cards often require you to turn off certain features to get slick performance, even though those technologies are previous gen and should be having a negligible impact" - ace42

"2K" is not 2560 x 1440 

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Cillit Bang is a viable option but you will need to thoroughly flush it, you can also go and buy phosphoric acid and use that - that's what Mayhem's use for their Blitz Part 1 in a concentration of up to 9%. You'll dilute it down to ~2% max concentration. Blitz part 2 is ... well .. a base with some cleaning additives. Thoroughly (!) flushing the system with water should be just as good. Can't come up for any reason, why it wouldn't. If you want to be very sure, you could go for a sodium solution. That will neutralize the pH as well. But you'd probably introducing more contaminants as well and need to flush thoroughly at the end as well so ...

 

To just remove all cleaning residue, I like to just unscrew to shower head and push it onto on of the port. That basically pressure flushes everything with tap water. Then some thorough runs of distilled water and everything is good.

 

When handling potent acids proper safety precautions are mandatory! Protect your eyes! Wear acid resitant gloves! When diluting the acid: first the base (water) and then the acid, NEVER the other way around!

 

P.S.: Cillit Bang also has some phosphoric acid in it - that makes it such a good cleaner.

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I use PBW to clean out my loop, it is a cleaner I use for my homebrewing equipment. It cleans that crap up real good. i only let it run through the loop for like 10 min and that sucker is cleaner than new.

 

I've heard undiluted white vinegar works good but i have PBW and never vinegar so its an easy choice on what to use to clean with.

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I used this stuff diluted 50%: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VX1XDE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

IT's phosphoric acid.  50% dilution is about 12-25% according to the MSDS.  It's pretty strong but it's not going to affect brass if you're rinsing it out after an hour or so.  I have a chinese pump that I use to circulate the stuff through to get some turbulence.

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