Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

bowrilla

Member
  • Content Count

    1,679
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards

This user doesn't have any awards

4 Followers

About bowrilla

  • Title
    Veteran
  • Birthday Mar 22, 1986

Contact Methods

  • Steam
    sonofnyx

Profile Information

  • Location
    Berlin
  • Gender
    Male
  • Biography
    Professional Indiana Jones – just whithout occult Nazis and murderous cults … and unfortunately without whips as well …
  • Occupation
    Jack of all trades

System

  • CPU
    Ryzen 7 2700
  • Motherboard
    ASUS ROG STRIX B450I
  • RAM
    32GB Corsair Vengeance RGB DDR4-3200
  • GPU
    Zotac 1080Ti Mini
  • Case
    Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Shift X
  • Storage
    1x Adata M.2 500GB SSD, 2x 500GB SATA SSD
  • PSU
    Corsair SF600
  • Display(s)
    Samsung 46" LED TV
  • Cooling
    Custom Loop, 280mm Black Ice Nemesis GTX, 2x Noctua NF-A14 Industrial PWM, 2x BeQuiet Silent Wings 3 140mm PWM, 1x Cryorig XT140 PWM
  • Keyboard
    Das Keyboard 4C Professional
  • Mouse
    Corsair Harpoon RGB
  • Sound
    AKG Y50BT wireless
  • Operating System
    Win10 Pro, Ubuntu 18.10

Recent Profile Visitors

2,192 profile views
  1. Well, then go on, disassemble everything an try to route the front. Might be a pit difficult though if you can't have the front flat on the machine bed. It's very much possible though.
  2. You can obviously try but I'd expect it to look either bad or be an expensive task (assuming you don't just have a CNC mill in your garage). A glance at the manual suggests that the front might not come off or is at least not intended to come off so modding would be extra tricky. I'd probably cange to a different case. If you're set on the NZXT design, the H510 apparently has a new variant about to be released with an airflow front. If you're open then just go an look for a properly vented mounting point for your AiO. I'd say a 240mm AiO should be able to handle a 5800X at least at
  3. Since this is an AiO pump ... I'd replace that thing. There's no way of knowing whether you did some damage to it or not during disassembly so you might risk a leak. Also: "food oil" should never be used to lubcricate mechnical parts. They easily get very sticky and cloggy. You also don't know whether the pump is lubricated by the fluid or not. Throw it away and get a new one.
  4. Well, too bad. With ports up, draining will be a challenge, with ports down, bleeding will. You can try to use the bottom drain plug - you'd need to attach another drain valve probably. Or you need to tilt it. Ah, the Ultitubes. I think they actually don't have different tops. Long run it is then. Well, have fun and plan a long afternoon to a whole day to build it - especially as a first time build.
  5. Because watercooling lower midrange cards doesn't make much sense. The money it takes to build a custom loop even at the bare minimum that isn't sketchy easily sums up to 350 bucks and that's with a CPU and not a GPU block. The amount of money you have to invest for a custom loop gives you 1, 2 or maybe even 3 tiers better GPU. You'd be looking at a 3070Ti or even 3080 instead of a 3060. You could try and find a universal mount which leaves the VRMs and VRAM chips still on air or you design it yourself and use a CNC mill (milling copper can be a pain though).
  6. Check whether Alternate ships to your location. The X-Flow rad is 15€ cheaper than the regular one at Caseking. Should be enough to compensate for shipping. So turning it upside down. It's a big case and you'll end up with a heavy build. Sure, can work, but ain't nice to handle. Yep, but they haven't gotten it. Not sure, why there's now just the Special Edition. Even EK doesn't list the regular anymore. That's one way of milking more money out of enthusiasts. Well, they have different tops imho. You can just switch them out. Or a long route down ... or X-Flow rad
  7. You went for the special edition. That will probably be released on 12th Octobre. Caseking is good and reliable. Another European (but Dutch) vendor is highflow.nl. They are quick to ship. Alphacool has a shop itself as well, just like EK. I think Aquatuning sort of belongs to the same folks as Alphacool itself but it's a general shop that also sells other brands. Alternate has the XT45 X-Flow in stock apparently. So does highflow, but they are a lot more expensive. You can look up availability and prices at many common shops from Austria, Germany, Poland and UK (and some others t
  8. A little less efficient but you will win greatly in terms of bleeding, draining and routing the tubes. I'd use the top fill port and try to connect it to one of the radiator ports at the top. You'll need to check specific measurements and you'll probably need the case to take measurements within it. Also make sure, the Alphacool radiator actually fits. The manual states the max dimensions. Alphacool gives very detailed CAD drawings of most of their radiators. Unfortunately, Hardwarelabs doesn't have many multi-port radiators on offer, otherwise I'd go with their rads (u
  9. Side only supports 120mm fans and rads. So 480mm it is. With 420mm being 100% of surface, the 480mm would be ~98%. It's negligible cooling-wise. Usually the 120mm fans have a bit better static pressure than their 140mm counterparts, but those again move more air. 4 vs 3 sources of sound, well ... We could go into the nitty gritty here but at the end of the day, there won't be much difference and imho the 480mm would look better because it goes all the way. Main advantage: much better ventilation and therefore more airflow and better cooling performance. Probably well enough
  10. I'd go for a multiport radiator. The Alphacool NexXxoS (yes, that's how they write it ...) XT45 has a total of 7 G1/4" ports (6 on one end and a 7th on the opposite end). There's also the X-Flow version of it with a total of 6 G1/4" ports. That would make filling and bleeding a lot easier. Any reason you'd go with a 420 over a 480? I mean, yes, the 420 will have a bit more surface but the 480 probably fills the front better (probably). That being said, I think I'd mount the rad on the side. It's a lot better ventilated than the front. A 480 X-Flow radiator would be pret
  11. You never mentioned that you actually HAVE an active backplate. It won't be included with the regular waterblock. This is the active backplate.
  12. Doesn't sound that revolutionary/new and it won't give you any advantage over something like LN2 extreme overclocking. Having your system in an airtight and insulated box isn't that hard. External radiators exist (i.e. MoRa) or go with a 2 fluid heat exchanger to run chilled coolant through that heat exchanger dramatically increasing ΔT. Dehumidifiers also exist to tackle the risk of condensation It's quite energy inefficient and cumbersome for extreme overclocking when LN2 is actually very simple reaching lower temps.
  13. Well, it will work but it either won't be very cool or very quiet. 1x480 or 2x360 or 2x280 (that's like ~90% of 2x360 in active cooling area) would obviously be better. With ZMT you won't have issues of discolouration but it is probably harder to route since it's usually more rigid. The Meshify 2 might be an option: well ventilated, lots of 3.5" mounts and lots of space for radiators, not entirely sure though if all the mounts are compatible when placing radiators. The 7000D might also be of interest (6x3.5" on the back) but no optical drive but place for 2x360 o
  14. Do you have the active backplate? The 3090 has memory chips on the back and they need cooling. Did you place the thermal pads everywhere as stated (that includes underneath the stock backplate if you did not opt for the active backplate)? The manual states just a single type of pads so at least you can't mix them up. Post a picture of the paste spread on the die. Which of the ports is your inlet? I know the manual says it doesn't matter but they use some sort of jet plate after all so I'd recommend using the upper port as inlet. What other components do you have in your loop? Is the GPU the on
  15. Well, fatter tubes means wider radiuses. If you already have issues making your tighter bends work then don't go bigger. If you have more room, then go 16mm. Bigger isn't really common.
×