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bowrilla

Member
  • Content Count

    1,516
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4 Followers

About bowrilla

Contact Methods

  • Steam
    sonofnyx

Profile Information

  • Location
    Berlin
  • Gender
    Male
  • Biography
    Professional Indiana Jones – just whithout occult Nazis and murderous cults … and unfortunately without whips as well …
  • Occupation
    Jack of all trades

System

  • CPU
    Ryzen 7 2700
  • Motherboard
    ASUS ROG STRIX B450I
  • RAM
    32GB Corsair Vengeance RGB DDR4-3200
  • GPU
    Zotac 1080Ti Mini
  • Case
    Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Shift X
  • Storage
    1x Adata M.2 500GB SSD, 2x 500GB SATA SSD
  • PSU
    Corsair SF600
  • Display(s)
    Samsung 46" LED TV
  • Cooling
    Custom Loop, 280mm Black Ice Nemesis GTX, 2x Noctua NF-A14 Industrial PWM, 2x BeQuiet Silent Wings 3 140mm PWM, 1x Cryorig XT140 PWM
  • Keyboard
    Das Keyboard 4C Professional
  • Mouse
    Corsair Harpoon RGB
  • Sound
    AKG Y50BT wireless
  • Operating System
    Win10 Pro, Ubuntu 18.10

Recent Profile Visitors

1,777 profile views
  1. AiOs aren't bad, they work okay. And if you go big enough they do outperform the best available air coolers. However, you're paying 3-5x as you would for a big NH-D15 for example. Custom (open loop) water cooling pulls way ahead of all other sorts of regular cooling (both air cooling and close loop AiOs). But you'll be paying even more. However, a custom open loop will not just offer lower temps you can trade a bit of that additional cooling performance for less noise. You're paying a price for this though. A full custom loop will tick in at ~500USD/EUR with basically
  2. AiO (closed loop) water coolers loose coolant through permeation. Over time the amount of coolant drops and with it the performance. At some point there won't be enough coolant in your loop to prevent your pump from sucking in air. It's basically garbage at that point unless you are willing and technically skilled enough for taking it apart and trying to refill it (and getting it sealed afterwards). Air coolers just work. The only moving thing is the fan and good fans usually work pretty well as long as you keep your system reasonably clean. If too much dust accumulates some might
  3. The Asetek AiOs do not have jet plates forcing water through the micro fin structure. The result is most likely a lot less flow through the micro fin structure and most of the water just rushing next to it. There will be water in between the fins but it won't exchange much so inbetween the fins the water will heat up but the heat isn't well transfered. That in turn will reduce the surface area that comes in contact with the actually flowing water. Less surface = less heat transfer. The pumps would also be to weak for a jet plate most likely and the construction is further complicated due to th
  4. It has little influence. As long as it flows and is enough to overcome some restrictions like jet plates (if your block has these) then it's basically fine. 5-7K more or less is not a big thing unless you want to push to the absolute limit. I did my own testing (because der8auer's data raises some questions; his flow rate is unexplainably low at all times for the kind of pump he has, the reading must be either wrong or has some unit mishap, it's not GPM though and GPH is unlikely either) and the results (for my loop) are pretty obvious: flowrate has minimal influence. Between 100%
  5. First of all, laptops are designed to run a lot hotter in order to save weight and bulk. They also jump in heat a lot faster and further than any desktop would usually do. Laptops react a lot quicker to load changes. Google Chrome for example can easily make the temps go through the roof for a moment and then dial down again. With laptops I'd make sure that there's nothing installed that might create higher loads in the background. Dropbox for example right after boot will put quite a load on the CPU during indexing. Sends the temps easily to the 90s range. Of course without those
  6. There's also the Cooler Master V-Series (750W and 850W) and the new SilverStone SFX PSUs with 800 and 1000W - altough those two have not been tested yet to my knowledge. Their predecessors were not good but SilverStone apparently changed their OEM. The CoolerMaster ones are known to be excellent.
  7. "Ctrl + Shift + I" and then "Ctrl + Shift + M" ... welcome to Chrome's (and Firefox's) dev tools to simulate other resolutions, devices and aspect ratios.
  8. It's all about the surface area - on both sides. The die havsa certain surface area which connects to the IHS - which again has a certain surface area that makes contact with the coldplate. That coldplate has ideally a micronfin structure which again sums up to a certain surface area making contact with the coolant. The coolant runs through the radiator which has small channels the coolant needs to pass through - the more of those channels you can fit the more surface area comes into contact with the water. On the outside the radiator has a fin structure connected to those channels increasing
  9. The one that fits your fittings. I don't speak Portughese so I have no idea what or if is stated in there. Common soft tubing sizes in custom watercooling are 10mm/13mm (3/8" - 1/2"), 10mm/16mm (3/8" - 5/8") and 12mm/16mm (7/16" - 5/8"). There are more though. If you heat the soft tubing up a bit it gets softer and a bit bendier. Makes it easier to push it over the barb. I was talking about the pump not the reservoir. Reservoir size is a matter of visual appeal and what fits inside the case and into your loop design.
  10. I may want to add: distilled waster first, THEN the acid! And protect your eyes!
  11. No, G1/4" is the thread in the components in which you screw in the fittings. The fittings pictured are barbed fitting with a clamp. It's okay but definitely old school. Once the clamp is tightened down nothing should happen but I personally prefer compression fittings for looks and leak safety. The clamp is then replaced by a screw on nut that presses the tube onto the barb. No idea. Probably works but you have no idea how loud it is or how strong it is. It's a 12V 4-pin molex connector pictured and a 4-pin PWM connector. I assume it sends TACH signal and receives PWM signal fr
  12. They have a speaker header but 99.99% don't come with a built in piezo speaker. Diagnostic LEDs are pretty useful for debugging, but only for debugging. You'll only get absolute budget boards without at least one M.2 NVMe slot if at all. The ASUS TUF B550 Plus is a pretty good mainboard, the only thing missing would be an on board header for USB Type C front panel connect Key A. But there are adaptors to the more common regular USB 3.x 19 pin header. Question is whether you need an mATX board or not. There are more options with regular ATX. If your case is mATX or if yo
  13. The question is: how relevant is λ in the context of a moving fluid in a cooling loop? A cooling loop represents a system with forced convection. Properties like density and kinematic viscosity are vital information or otherwise calculations are impossible. You need those properties first to calculate the Reynolds number in such a system (plus the channel dimensions and flow rate). You need to know the Reynolds number to calculate the Nusselt number. You'll also need to calculate the Prandtl number (ratio between kinematic viscosity and thermal diffusivity) for which you will need the density,
  14. I don't think @For Science!expressed doubts about the measurements per se except maybe precision. Neither do I. The question is how much thermal conductivity of the coolant influences a loop's performance. Don't get me wrong: more data is always welcome especially with watercooling where valid data is often scarce. I can't remember the equations on the spot to calculate heat transfer in relation to surface, I need to look into some of my old textbooks and scripts but my gut feeling tends to the side of the coolant's k property not playing much of a role within a reasonable property range. It's
  15. I personally have very good experiences with Cilit Bang Power household cleaner. But use at your own risk. You mainly want to remove copper oxide, grease, fat and flux residue. Pure water is not enough. Especially the copper oxide needs some acid for the job. Vinegar gets the job done but it is slow. Phosporic acid (<20%) does a great job with very little effect on the copper itself, so less time is needed. Sukfuric acid is even stronger in this regard BUT will dissolve the copper itself over time as well. Getting your hands on fairly potent acids may not be easy nor
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