[US-Newegg] Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO V2 (The new one) $29 (included MIR)

[TVwazhere]

https://www.newegg.com/cooler-master-rr-2v2e-18pk-r1/p/N82E16835103309

 

What separates this from the original EVO, The black edition or the RGB one? Other than not being painted black, the EVO V2 retains the original more simplified mounting design of the original compared to the RGB edition which is nice to see. It requires two more screws but is actually easier as a result since the bracket is installed onto the motherboard, instead of the cooler. 

 

But the biggest difference is the fan.

Model	Fan Airflow (cfm)	Fan Pressure (mmh20)	RPM	dBA
Black edition	42	2.9	2000RPM	26
RGB Edition	57.3	2	2000RPM	30
Evo V2	62	2.5	1800RPM	28

The original EVO has two versions listed, but the higher one is reportedly 89cfm, 2.7mmh₂0 and 36dBA. It also had it's pipes closer together which was likely good for smaller CPU IHS's, but may have been spread out on the newer EVO models due to larger Ryzen IHS size popularity. (This is speculation though, without thorough GN testing this cannot be stated as fact)

 

For Performance, the Evo V2 wins on paper. 

For Aesthetics, it's personal preference but I believe most agree the RGB Black edition is best

For stealth/Silence, the Black edition would fit best.

 

However at $10 off (mir) the EVO V2 has a clear victory.

[Paul Rudd]

4 hours ago, TVwazhere said:

Black edition	42	2.9	2000RPM	26
RGB Edition	57.3	2	2000RPM	30
Evo V2	62	2.5	1800RPM	28

Wow, I did not know about these specs. I just assumed they had the same CFM and dBA. I've never even paid attention to fan pressure either and seeing that mmh20 symbol is new to me. Gonna have to figure out how to type out that lowered 2 and learn what in the world that mmh20 pressure thing actually is. When I think of fan pressure, I think weight and force. And when I see h20 I think water.

 

Thank you for this post, very informational and helpful. I'm a huge fan(see what I did there) of the Hyper 212 lineup and actually recommend them to a lot of people on a day to day basis. Especially those building PCs with horrendous stock coolers such as the Wraith Stealth. It's a no-brain add-on when people are looking to get better thermals and higher clock speeds on the cheap.

 

I almost always have people also consider Arctic Freezer coolers in this price range as well, such as the 7 X and the newer A13 X. And even the 34 eSports DUO when it hits $40 like it did earlier this week. It's up to $56 now though. The single fan 34 eSports is usually right around $40-$45 but I remember it was hitting $35-$36 before the pandemic.

[TVwazhere]

14 minutes ago, Paul Rudd said:

Wow, I did not know about these specs. I just assumed they had the same CFM and dBA. I've never even paid attention to fan pressure either and seeing that mmh20 symbol is new to me. Gonna have to figure out how to type out that lowered 2 and learn what in the world that mmh20 pressure thing actually is. When I think of fan pressure, I think weight and force. And when I see h20 I think water.

You can make the suffix 2 with the formatting, and yes, the H₂0 is actually referring to water. But it's a calculation; they dont actually stick the fan in water to determine the rating 

It's a measurement of static pressure, meaning how well a fan can overcome resistance. Radiator fans tend to prefer static pressure fans since their rads can be relatively restrictive by nature in comparison to case fans. In this case, it's not a huge factor but it's good to know when comparing fans. Not all fans list a static pressure rating though.

I've used the Freezer 33 Esports One (similar design, was slightly shorter than the new 34) as well as the Cryorig H7, and all perform pretty similarly. It mostly comes down to the fan installed on them. Arctic's fans are actually pretty good across the board, so they tend to do a teeny bit better (but this mean only a few degrees of difference really)

[Paul Rudd]

23 hours ago, TVwazhere said:

meaning how well a fan can overcome resistance

Interesting stuff. This may influence me to put a higher mmH₂O fan as my front bottom intake fan because I have 3 HDD's stacked directly in front of it and have never really tried to get better case thermals.

23 hours ago, TVwazhere said:

Cryorig H7

I currently have the Cryorig C7. I went with it years ago because it was on a major sale($20-$25 iirc) and I just wanted something small and better than the stock intel fan I had. I love my C7. Just checked and it's 2.8 mmH₂O, which is surprisingly better than the H7's 1.65 mmH₂O. The CFM is pretty adequate at 40.5(I like the H7's 59 CFM) but at 100% speed it's pretty noisy(30dBA) because it's 2500 RPM(the H7 is only 1600). So I have my fan curve not so aggressive. My CPU max operating temp is just 70+ degrees so I have the last two fan curve settings at 70% when it hits 55 degrees and 85% when it hits 70 degrees. And since it rarely goes above 60-62 degrees, it's mostly running at 70-80% when under full load. Which is still kind of noisy so I just leave it there.

 

Again, thanks for the info and video. I'm always about learning these tiny details.