How do i get crispy video from my 70d??

[alexbianchi15]

 I have a 70d that i use to record my videos for youtube.

link to example youtube video https://youtu.be/0QDNcoTY67Y

I remember back when Casey Neistat was vlogging he had a 70d and it looked great! I understand casey was using lenses that cost thousands of dollars, but with my 24mm F2.4 lense how do i get close?

I edit with premeir, and other equipment is previously mentioned. Its a cheap SD card is the only other part of the proccess.

Right now I dont do any sharpening in post. 

Does anyone have advice? Please this would help SO much. 

[GDRRiley]

who makes your 24 f2.4? full model info?

it likely will be tweaking small settings.

 

I'm grabbing my SL2 to see what I run, It's mirror over to a 60D that looks identical.

 

I shoot faithful or a modified neutral or cine style.

Custom

Sharpness 0

Contrast -3

Sat -4

Color 0

[skimmilk5]

Shoot with your lens closed up more - around 5.6 to 11, whatever the tightest you can get it. A lot of the edge softness tends to rear its ugly behind when you shoot wide open. This will also help with some vignetting and chromatic aberration issues, but those (especially the latter) tend to only pop out when you're pixel-peeping. Other than that, better glass always helps.

[alexbianchi15]

On 3/3/2020 at 9:54 PM, GDRRiley said:

who makes your 24 f2.4? full model info?

it likely will be tweaking small settings.

 

I'm grabbing my SL2 to see what I run, It's mirror over to a 60D that looks identical.

 

I shoot faithful or a modified neutral or cine style.

Custom

Sharpness 0

Contrast -3

Sat -4

Color 0

Ok cool thank you, it's a canon 24mm it's very cheap but im on a budget. I'll try that out today.

[alexbianchi15]

On 3/3/2020 at 9:54 PM, kimsejin5 said:

Shoot with your lens closed up more - around 5.6 to 11, whatever the tightest you can get it. A lot of the edge softness tends to rear its ugly behind when you shoot wide open. This will also help with some vignetting and chromatic aberration issues, but those (especially the latter) tend to only pop out when you're pixel-peeping. Other than that, better glass always helps.

Ok cool thank you I'll try that today. I've been running it wide open thinking that's best for the backround blur effect. Sorry I'm very new to this.

[GDRRiley]

On 3/7/2020 at 8:00 AM, alexbianchi15 said:

Ok cool thank you, it's a canon 24mm it's very cheap but im on a budget. I'll try that out today.

okay so then try to focus better, maybe you are just off the mark. it should be a decently sharp.

[Action_Johnson]

<- Professional photog here, here's my advice:

 

First off, Canon DSLR video isn't sharp. If you're shooting a test chart, the GH5 will blow a 5D4 out of the water on resolution. 

 

But that's not the problem here. You're puzzle can be solved in 3 really easy ways:

 

-Lighting. Alot of perceived sharpness has mostly that to do with the lighting. Higher contrast = higher perceived sharpness. If I light a subject with a bare flash, I'll have super crispy shadows (more contrast). If I light with a gigantic soft box, I'll have super soft shadows (less contrast). Which image will look sharper? The one with the crispier lighting. Also, this video is really under-lit. Much of the background is significantly brighter than you are, so the first things I look at is the window and your desk lamp, not you. Pump up the jam on your key light, that'll make you have to drop your exposure, and thus balance out your key and your background lighting, alot. 

 

-Focus. You also need to make sure you stay within your set depth of field. In the video, you're moving around all over the place and coming in and out of focus. Also, I don't recommend stopping down to f/11, that's too much. But you also don't need to be shooting wide open at f/1.8 or 2.8 all the time. 

 

-Blocking. Find your spot, focus the camera, light for that composition, stay in that spot, roll. Watch the LTT videos (which are lit and shot beautifully, BTW) and you'll notice when they're running shots with a stationary camera, the talent is also stationary. Its when people are moving alot, they'll go on the shoulder rig.

 

Take a look at this: 

https://fstoppers.com/gear/how-make-cinematic-work-old-300-camera-418576

 

It's a great example where the gear doesn't matter, and he was able to make a really clean video because his lighting was intentional, his focus was set, and he made sure his blocking was correct so he'd stay within his light and his plane of focus. 

 

Hope this helps

[Teradore]

On 3/27/2020 at 5:55 PM, Action_Johnson said:

<- Professional photog here, here's my advice:

 

First off, Canon DSLR video isn't sharp. If you're shooting a test chart, the GH5 will blow a 5D4 out of the water on resolution. 

 

But that's not the problem here. You're puzzle can be solved in 3 really easy ways:

 

-Lighting. Alot of perceived sharpness has mostly that to do with the lighting. Higher contrast = higher perceived sharpness. If I light a subject with a bare flash, I'll have super crispy shadows (more contrast). If I light with a gigantic soft box, I'll have super soft shadows (less contrast). Which image will look sharper? The one with the crispier lighting. Also, this video is really under-lit. Much of the background is significantly brighter than you are, so the first things I look at is the window and your desk lamp, not you. Pump up the jam on your key light, that'll make you have to drop your exposure, and thus balance out your key and your background lighting, alot. 

 

-Focus. You also need to make sure you stay within your set depth of field. In the video, you're moving around all over the place and coming in and out of focus. Also, I don't recommend stopping down to f/11, that's too much. But you also don't need to be shooting wide open at f/1.8 or 2.8 all the time. 

 

-Blocking. Find your spot, focus the camera, light for that composition, stay in that spot, roll. Watch the LTT videos (which are lit and shot beautifully, BTW) and you'll notice when they're running shots with a stationary camera, the talent is also stationary. Its when people are moving alot, they'll go on the shoulder rig.

 

Take a look at this: 

https://fstoppers.com/gear/how-make-cinematic-work-old-300-camera-418576

 

It's a great example where the gear doesn't matter, and he was able to make a really clean video because his lighting was intentional, his focus was set, and he made sure his blocking was correct so he'd stay within his light and his plane of focus. 

 

Hope this helps

this is absolutely right. a good image is far from just the camera...