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Best Gaming Keyboard Under £150?

Okay, I'm after a new keyboard...

Currently using a Cyborg V7 as a temporary replacement from my Logitech G910 Orion Spark which died after 2 months when the left-shift key snapped. Logitech refused to replace it because they said it was malicious damage. I am willing to buy another keyboard again, I just hope it lasts longer.

 

I only have 2 keyboards in mind at the moment, but willing to look at others.

The keyboard I am thinking about are the Logitech G910 Orion Spectrum and the Wooting Two.

I personally am in love with what the Wooting Two has to offer, but the lack of discrete buttons for media control is very slightly putting me off.

 

I will primarily be using it for gaming, and sometimes typing for work and social media.

 

Any suggestions would be taken into consideration.

 

 - Joe

My current Set-Up: (Now in RGB)

Spoiler

CPU: Intel Xeon E3 1231 V3 | CPU cooler: EVGA CLC 280 | GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 Classified @ 2050MHz | Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97MX-Gaming 5 | RAM: 4x4GB Corsair Vengeance Pro 2400MHz | PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 750w G2 | Boot SSD: Samsung 960 Evo 250GB on a SilverStone SST-ECM20 | Game Storage: Kingston HyperX 3K 240GB | Main Storage: Seagate Barracuda 500GB 7200RPM | Back-up Storage: 2x Seagate Barracuda 500GB 5900RPM in software RAID-1 | Recording Drive: Samsung SpinPoint 160GB 5400RPM | Case: NZXT S340 Elite Black/Red | OS: Windows 10 Professional | Keyboard: Cyborg V.7 | Mouse: Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum | Monitors: Dell S2716DG + HP Compaq LA1951g | Speakers: Sony PCVA-SP2 (Which sound FANTASTIC) | Headset: HyperX Cloud II

 

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3 minutes ago, caspar! said:

I would read this, but I'm doing this while I'm at work... We don't have access to reddit. :(
Yet, we do have access to LTT and TomsHardware. don't suppose you could gimme a TL;DR? (Trying not to be a pain)

My current Set-Up: (Now in RGB)

Spoiler

CPU: Intel Xeon E3 1231 V3 | CPU cooler: EVGA CLC 280 | GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 Classified @ 2050MHz | Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97MX-Gaming 5 | RAM: 4x4GB Corsair Vengeance Pro 2400MHz | PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 750w G2 | Boot SSD: Samsung 960 Evo 250GB on a SilverStone SST-ECM20 | Game Storage: Kingston HyperX 3K 240GB | Main Storage: Seagate Barracuda 500GB 7200RPM | Back-up Storage: 2x Seagate Barracuda 500GB 5900RPM in software RAID-1 | Recording Drive: Samsung SpinPoint 160GB 5400RPM | Case: NZXT S340 Elite Black/Red | OS: Windows 10 Professional | Keyboard: Cyborg V.7 | Mouse: Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum | Monitors: Dell S2716DG + HP Compaq LA1951g | Speakers: Sony PCVA-SP2 (Which sound FANTASTIC) | Headset: HyperX Cloud II

 

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https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/wiki/buying_guide

 

The following is a quote from this page. All rights belong to the original creators.

 

_______________________________________________________________________

 

How much are you willing to spend on your keyboard? In general, unless you’re willing to dig for used keyboards on eBay/local thrift stores, you will need to spend at least $70 for a good mechanical keyboard with Cherry MX switches. Most mid-range keyboards are in the $100-150 range. Anything over that can be considered expensive.

Okay, so how much do you want to spend?

I'm a starving student living in my parents' basement. I have no money, but I want the feels.

Here are some keyboards in the $0-100 range (in Alphabetical Order):

Keyboard Name Size Switches Description
Coolermaster Masterkeys Pro S/M/L Tenkeyless/Hybrid/Full Cherry MX (Red, Brown, Blue) Two variants of the Pro version per size, one with RGB LEDs, and one with single color LEDs, as well as the PBT version with thick 1.5mm, etched PBT caps, but no backlighting or Hibrid version.
     
Coolermaster CK530 / CK550 Tenkeyless/Full-Sized Gateron (Red, Brown, Blue) Cooler Master's latest mid-range offering, with RGB, Gateron switches and updated software with better macro support.
     
Ducky One / One 2 Tenkeyless/Full-Sized Cherry MX (Brown, Blue, Black, Red) Ducky's TKL/full-size, starting at $85 with no backlighting, doubleshot PBT keycaps, and on keyboard macros. The One's Micro-USB port is replaced by USB-C on the One 2, along with a new case design.
     
MagicForce 68 Compact Cherry MX / Cherry MX compatible A very popular budget keyboard from China. It is small and lightweight and well worth the price. Easily available on many common retailers including Amazon.com, ebay and special versions on MassDrop.
     
MagicForce 82 TKL Cherry MX / Cherry MX compatible New Magicforce keyboard from 2017, 82 keys layout, more convinent than Magicforce 68. The non-standard bottom row on this keyboard can make it difficult to find replacement keycaps.
     
IBM Model F (USED) Compact, Full-Sized Buckling Spring Made in the mid 1980s, the IBM Model F keyboard was, and still is, one of the best-feeling mechanical keyboards in existence. If you can’t afford a new keyboard, you might try going used - and there’s really one keyboard that is bulletproof, no matter how old it is. The king of keyboards, the Model F, will last a lifetime. Weighing in at about 6lbs (almost 3kg), this is a solid buy, and a historic and vintage feel that must be used to be appreciated. Typically, the Model F is praised for its loud clicks/clacks, its heavy touch, and its strong feedback. Great for typing, okay for gaming, and very loud. Great places to check are on Ebay or on /r/mechmarket. Less common models can be hard to find though.
     
IBM Model M Compact, Full-Sized Buckling Spring The Model M was a cost-cutting effort which gradually replaced the Model F and it is still in production to this date. It is widely assumed that the older IBM models had a better build quality than later models made by Lexmark or Unicomp.
     
Plugable 87-key/104-key TenKeyLess, Fullsize Outemu Blue (Cherry MX compatible) A new offering in the entry-level segment, featuring adjustable white LED backlighting and doubleshot ABS keycaps, starting at $43 for the 87-key Compact and $50 for the fullsize.
     
Redragon K552 / K551 Tenkeyless/Full-Sized Outemu Blue A fairly popular and cheap entry level board with a few backlighting options, only offered with blue switches.
Rosewill RK-9000V2 Full-Sized Cherry MX (Red, Brown, Blue, Black) Super cheap, well built full-size board. Standard layout for easy customization, and removable cable for easy transport. Almost always can be found for less than $100, sometimes as low as $50-60.
     
Unicomp Ultra Classic White Full-Sized Buckling Spring If you want a buckling spring keyboard that’s been built in this century, this is it. The Unicomp Classic is a clone of the IBM Model M. The Classic is essentially a Model M with Windows keys; the Ultra Classic is the same keyboard with a slightly smaller shell but the same mechanical components. Versions with integrated pointing devices like pointing sticks or trackballs are available for $20-30 more. A very worthwhile keyboard and feel-goody keyboard, but not very pretty or easily modified.
     
VELOCIFIRE TKL02 Tenkeyless Content(browns) 34$ good construction also there is a wireless version for 44$ wired version has non removable cable wireless version features a dongle and a usb-c/usb charger (it has a wired mode and there is a 2 ports from which to plug the charging cord) and both feature white back-lighting and doubleshot abs key-caps
     
VELOCIFIRE TKL01 Tenkeyless Outemu(browns) 30$ good construction teal back-lighting there is also a wireless version with no back-lighting both 41$ feature and doubleshot abs key-caps
     
VELOCIFIRE TKL78 Tenkeyless Outemu(browns) 30$ good construction teal back-lighting and and doubleshot abs key-caps
     
VELOCIFIRE VM01 Full Outemu(browns) 41$ good construction teal back-lighting there is also a wireless version with no back-lighting 51$ both feature and doubleshot abs key-caps
     
VELOCIFIRE VM02WS Full Content(browns) 60$ wireless with dongle white LEDs and doubleshot abs key-caps
     
VELOCIFIRE VM90 Full Kaihl(black.blue) 92$ rgb wired keyboard
     
VELOCIFIRE VM30 Full Kaihl(black) 92$ collored LED back-lighting wired keyboard
     

I'm willing to spend a fair amount for my feels.

Here are some keyboards in the $101-150 range (in Alphabetical Order):

Type Size Switches Description
     
Cooler Master MK730 / Cooler Master MK750 Tenkeyless/Full-Sized Cherry MX (Blue, Brown, Red) Cooler Master's top of the line boards, with Cherry switches, media keys on the MK750, and an included wrist rest.
     
Ducky One / One 2 Tenkeyless/Full-Sized Cherry MX (Brown, Blue, Black, Red, Clear, Green, White, Silent Red, Silver) Ducky's TKL/full-size, with a range of backlighting (single colour/RGB) and switch options, with doubleshot PBT keycaps and on keyboard macros. The One's Micro-USB port is replaced by USB-C on the One 2, along with a new case design, and software control for RGB on those models that have it.
     
iKBC F87 / F108 Tenkeyless/Full-Sized Cherry MX (Blue, Brown, Red) A slightly cheaper and more basic option than the Ducky, it's still solidly built and has doubleshot PBT keycaps and on keyboard controlled RGB.
     
Glorious Modular Mechanical Keyboard (Build your own kit) Tenkeyless/Full-Sized Gateron (Cherry MX compatible; Hot-Swappable switches) Modular, full size or TKL, minimalist floating key-cap design, RGB backlit keyboard. Has modular/hot-swap switches so you can swap out any Cherry MX, Gateron, Zeal or Kailh switch without having to solder. This is a customizable/Build-your-own kit, you select any combination of board + switches + key caps you want to use (assembly is simply plugging in switches like you do with keycaps). Pricing starts at $60 for a barebones keyboard. Available also via Amazon Prime. RandomfrankP Youtube Review here.
     
KB Paradise V60 Compact Cherry MX (Black, Blue, Brown, Clear, Green, Dark Grey (linear), Light Grey (tactile), Red, Silent Red, Silver; Gateron (Black, Blue, Brown, Clear, Green, Red, Yellow), Matias (Click, Linear, Quiet Click); Fukka 60% compact available in a large selection of switches, caps, backlight options, RGB underglow option, and the Type R models are fully programmable with TMK or QMK firmware. Prices range from $99 to $120.
     
KB Paradise V80 Tenkeyless Cherry MX (Blue, Brown, Clear, Red, Silent Red), Matias (Click, Linear, Quiet Click), and many more TKL available in a large selction of switches, caps, and backlight options. Prices range from $109-$129.
     
KBC/Vortex Pok3r (Poker 3) Compact Cherry MX (Black, Blue, Brown, Clear, Green, Red, Silent Red) A popular compact choice due to its relatively low price, customizability and solid construction, the Poker has become a subreddit favorite. The keyboard is partially programmable and comes with DIP switches on the base for key swapping. Backplate mounted. Cherry stabilizers. Non-backlit from $119, single-color backlit from $129, RGB from $139. Also available on Amazon.com and MechanicalKeyboards.com, and found rebranded as the non-backlit WASD VP3 and the backlit WASD Code 61-key.
     
Leopold FC660/FC750/FC980/FC900 Full-Sized / Tenkeyless / Compact Cherry MX (Red, Brown, Blue, Black) Leopold's keyboards have a dedicated following in their homeland of Korea and among Starcraft players. Their compact keyboards come in many different varieties but all of them boast great build quality and clean, understated designs. High quality doubleshot PBT keycaps, and silencing pads inside the case on some models set them apart.
     
Matias Quiet Pro Full-Sized Dampened White Simplified ALPs) ALPs switches were used in early Apple keyboards and is another switch you might like. The keyboard is billed as "the world's quietest mechanical keyboard" . The Matias AMA includes a discussion on these custom switches.
     
WASD V3 Keyboard (TKL and Full Size) Full-Sized/Tenkeyless Cherry MX (Blue, Black, Red, Brown, Clear, Green, Silent Red, Silver) WASD offers custom printed keycaps on their boards, while the V3 now comes with full key remapping, macros, and a large selection of switches.
     
Varmilo VA87M / VA108M Tenkeyless Cherry MX (Blue, Black, Red, Brown, White, Clear, Green, Gray) Varmilo offers the high-quality keyboards with fair cost. Customizable - but takes time. Cherry stabilizers. Support backlit, with PBT keycaps. Start from around $120.
     

I'm willing to spend a lot for my feels.

Here are some keyboards in the $150 to $199 range. Most keyboard companies try to keep their prices below $150, but there are a few (in Alphabetical Order):

Type Size Switches Description
Ducky Shine 7 Full-Sized Cherry MX (Brown, Blue, Black, Red, Silent Red, Silver) Ducky's flagship model, with RGB and a zinc alloy faceplate paired with their doubleshot PBT keycaps.
     
Filco Majestouch 2 Full-Sized/Tenkeyless Cherry MX (Blue, Red, Brown, Black) Well built but dated, Filco offers solid build quality, though their pad-printed ABS keycaps leave something to be desired against other modern options.
     
iKBC MF108 / iKBC MF87 Tenkeyless/Full-Sized Cherry MX (Black, Blue, Brown, Red, Silent Red) Comes with RGB and doubleshot PBT keycaps, but the star of the show is the premium machined aluminum case that turns it into a tank of a keyboard.
     
Topre Type Heaven Full-Sized Topre 45g The "Poor-man's Topre," The Type Heaven is a dream to type on. If you want a Topre keyboard, but don't want to break the bank (too much), this is your guy. If you can't drop >$200 for a Realforce 104 or 87, then this is your guy. Comes with ABS keycaps instead of the PBT like other models.
     
Varmilo VA68M Compact Cherry MX (Blue, Brown, Red, Black, Gray, Green, White) Varmilo offer high quality keyboards for mech market. VA68M has aluminum case and led support, and customizable options. Start from around $150.
     
WASD CODE Tenkeyless/Full-Sized Cherry MX (Clear, Brown, Green, and Blue) A minimal keyboard with a selection of either Cherry MX Clear or Cherry MX Green switches. This keyboard also includes a White LED Backlight on each switch, a non-branded black plastic casing, and other features. The Clear, Brown, and Blue versions start at around $150 dollars, while the Cherry MX Green version starts at around $170 dollars.
     

Are you ready for The Topre Life?

Want a Topre, Korean Custom, or want to build one from scratch?

Type Switches Description
Happy Hacking Keyboard Pro Topre (45g) The HHKB was designed by Prof. Wada as a minimalist keyboard for Unix systems. The brand is owned by PFU (Fujitsu subsidiary). Several generations and variants of the HHKB have been made since the 1990s, each made by a different manufacturer: original HHKB from Fujitsu, HHKB Lite from Chicony and HHKB Pro from Topre. All of them use rubber domes, but only HHKB Pro comes with electrocapacitive actuation technology. Unlike Topre Realforce, HHKB Pro does not have a metal backplate, which makes it very light and unique sounding. The difference between HHKB Pro and Pro 2 is that the latter features an USB hub. There are also quieter (S-Type) and Bluetooth versions.
   
Leopold FC660C Topre 45g A small 66-key capacitive switch version of the famed Topre Realforce and PFU Happy Hacking Keyboard. Priced at $230.
   
Leopold FC980C Topre 45g The capacitive switch version of Leopold's FC980M. Priced at $260.
   
Balls to the wall custom MKB Cherry MX/Gateron/Kailh/ALPS of choice The be all and end all of your personal Mechanical Keyboard quests. From the ergonomic ErgoDox to the hallowed KMAC2, you can buy pre-manufactured kits and assemble them yourself. Ranging from the 40%er to the 96-key, the limit here is your budget. If that isn't enough for you, check out the Minimal Animal build and make your own design. The price ranges from an average USD ~100 to whatever your wallet is capable of paying for.
   
Kustoms Cherry MX, ALPS, Gateron Small, limited run, high-end keyboards made in Korea. These are often true endgame boards. Most feature an appealing solid aluminium case with some having an insert to further increase the board's heft. Can only be purchased in small group buys or second-hand on /r/mechmarket or GH Classifieds, for example. Some Kustom brands are Duck, LifeZone (LZ), On The Desk (OTD), KMAC, and TGR. These will sell normally from $350-800 with some rare ones hitting over $1000 or even higher.

My

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The quote continues, this time the feels section:

Feels


How a keyboard/switch feels is arguably the most important thing when choosing a board, and this is what most people have questions about, so let's start here. There are many different kinds of keyboard switches. All of them can be considered "mechanical," but they all feel different, and some are embraced as "mechanical" more than others:

Type of Switch General Feels Picture Example
Rubber Dome By far the most common type of standalone keyboard it is cheap and easy to find. Unfortunately has a lower lifetime and many people think they feel like mashed potatoes after using a Mechanical Keyboard. See /r/Keyboard for more info. Rubber Dome Switch Picture(ew) Logitech G19s(actually pretty sweet, but I say no more.)
     
Scissor Switch Usually rubber-dome based. Originally designed for laptops these have a short travel from 1mm in the Surface Pro 3 to 3.2mm in some Logitech Keyboards. An advantage is there are many Tenkeyless and Full Size standalone keyboards in wireless and backlit configurations. For more info see /r/keyboard Scissor Switch Picture Your Macbook Pro
     
Buckling Spring Feels good man. Relatively high activation force (~75g). Nice Click upon activation, and Clack upon deactivation. A good metaphor is like wearing fat boots on a wood floor. Like a cowboy. Clunky and crisp, in a good way. Please see Ripster's Shoe Theory for more shoe/switch metaphor. A user once said that every key on a buckling spring feels like the launch button on a space ship! Buckling Spring Picture IBM Model M (doesn't look like much, but it's a legend)
     
ALPS There are all different sorts of ALPS, but most are found on uncommon keyboards. There are a variety of feels associated with these switches, similar to the variety of Cherry Switches. These are less common, but there are more details in Ripster's Switch Science Guide. ALPS Switch Picture Dell AT102W
     
Topre Some say this is the most elegant feels. It's said to feel smoother than Cherry, but far more solid than a standard rubber dome. They're soft when bottomed out, and are not clicky. They're only featured on a few, expensive keyboards. They use a combination of a rubber dome and a spring for their mechanism, so it's said they adopt the best of both worlds. Topre Switch Keychain Picture Realforce 104UG
     
Cherry MX FINALLY! These are the switches that most modern mechanicals will have, the most commonly used. There are a large variety of switches, but in general, Cherrys are what you think of when you think of mechanical switches. They are solid, have a good feel, and have a variety of options. These options and differences will be highlighted below. Cherry Switch Picture Ducky Shine 3
     
Kailh Kailh switches, are knock offs of popular Cherry MXs. They come in a variety of types (colors) which resemble original Cherry types (Yellow being an exception) - Blue Kailh = Blue MX, Red Kailh = Red MX etc. Kailh have also started to innovate around 2016 and introduced new product lines called Speed, Box etc. Cost of keyboard using these switches is their biggest advantage - prices start from $40. Although rated higher than Cherry MX in MTBF at 60M the jury is still out whether we will see defects like Switch Chaaatttteeerrrriiinnnng. Kailh switch picture. Fry's Gearhead
     
Razer Switch Well, it is said that they're MX but made just for gaming. Produced by a variety of Chinese companies, which is currently believed to be TTC at the moment, they come in three types - orange, yellow and green. Green is similar to MX Blues whereas orange is something near Browns. Are these switches made for gaming? Yes. Are they worth? Not really, as several reviews show the difference (0.2mm, within margin of error for Cherry MX) to be negligible, while some claim to notice less uniformity from switch to switch. Razer Switch picture Razer Blackwidow Ultimate
     
Steelseries QS1 Also produced by Kaihua, but this one is not based on Cherry MX. Linear Switch. 3mm travel with 1.5mm actuation and a big RGB LED in the middle. Ripster QS1 Switch Guide SteelSeries APEX M800
     
Logitech Romer G Produced by Omron. 45g and actuates at a distance of 1.5mm. Has a centered light pipe design for even glow. Tactile and dampened but generally regarded as "mushy" Romer-G Switch Picture Logitech G910 Orion Spark, TKL G410, and TKL G310 (Asia Only)
     
Gateron Clones of the popular Cherry MXs. They come in a variety of types (Colors) which are similar to the Cherry types. Blue Gateron = Blue MX, Red Gateron = Red MX etc. Gateron's were actually largely considered smoother than Cherry MX's made in ~1994-2016, and provide a more unique feel many people like at a much cheaper cost. Housing comes in many forms from black, to milky, to clear. Some gateron science located here and here, and relevant Gateron vs Cherry MX discussion here. RGB (Clear Housing) Gateron switches can be purchased here.  

Cherry MX

http://i.imgur.com/wskQOwc.png

There are three kinds of switches that Cherry sells:

  • A tactile switch has a “bump” when it is pressed. When you push a tactile switch, you push with the most force up until you reach the actuation point of the switch (i.e., how hard you have to press the key to register it), after which the switch will depress fully with very little resistance. In theory, this lets the user know exactly when the key has been actuated. Note that the actuation point is never at the bottom of the switch, meaning actuation will always happen before the switch is fully pressed down.

  • A clicky switch is similar to a tactile switch, except it produces some sort of sound when it activates. This kind of switch can be annoying to some, due to the click being quite loud for fast typers or gamers. Some prefer the “soft click” of the Cherry MX Whites, which still offers a click but is less distinct.

  • A linear switch doesn’t have a “bump”. Simply put, the deeper you press down a button, the harder it pushed back against your finger. Think of it as pushing down a spring.

One thing to note is that tactile switches and clicky switches feel almost completely different when pressed. This is because the clicky mechanism has a "snap-back" point (which is what creates the click sound), while the tactile switches are more of a smooth bump. So, if you really like clicky switches, tactile switches might not cut it for you.

Cherry offers each kind of switch in varying degrees of stiffness (i.e., how hard you have to press down before it activates.). This table below shows some of the variants.

The Table of Cherry MX Feels

    Linear: No physical feedback Tactile: Quiet bump feedback Clicky: Loud bump feedback
     
Medium(45/50g)   Red (45g) Brown (small bump) Blue
Slightly Stiff(55-65g)   Nature White (55g) / Black (65g) Clear N/A
Very Stiff(80g)   Dark Grey Light Grey Green and White
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Thank you SO MUCH for that!!!

That is a massive help, only down side is that it does not include optical switches and analog switches which is found in the Wooting One & Two. It's the analog which is making me want to go for that keyboard, but if I were to go for a keyboard with Cherry MX-Brown/Blue (tactile feel, but without the audible click) I am stumped.

 

I am thinking about the Cooler Master MK750 and Logitech G910 (I liked the Omron switches personally).

But what other decent keyboards are there within the £100-150 range that are very nice, mechanical, full sized and are available in the UK.

 

That is a massive list, but a lot doesn't really apply to me :/ I'm simply trying to find which would be the best keyboard for what I am after, and asking if the Wooting Two is worth it or not.

 

 - Joe

My current Set-Up: (Now in RGB)

Spoiler

CPU: Intel Xeon E3 1231 V3 | CPU cooler: EVGA CLC 280 | GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 Classified @ 2050MHz | Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97MX-Gaming 5 | RAM: 4x4GB Corsair Vengeance Pro 2400MHz | PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 750w G2 | Boot SSD: Samsung 960 Evo 250GB on a SilverStone SST-ECM20 | Game Storage: Kingston HyperX 3K 240GB | Main Storage: Seagate Barracuda 500GB 7200RPM | Back-up Storage: 2x Seagate Barracuda 500GB 5900RPM in software RAID-1 | Recording Drive: Samsung SpinPoint 160GB 5400RPM | Case: NZXT S340 Elite Black/Red | OS: Windows 10 Professional | Keyboard: Cyborg V.7 | Mouse: Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum | Monitors: Dell S2716DG + HP Compaq LA1951g | Speakers: Sony PCVA-SP2 (Which sound FANTASTIC) | Headset: HyperX Cloud II

 

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7 minutes ago, PlymouthJoseph said:

Wooting Two is worth it or not.

Take a look at this

It's wooting one, but switches are the same, should help you decide. I would not buy it without testing, or buy from somewhere with good return policy.

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35 minutes ago, noxdeouroboros said:

Take a look at this

It's wooting one, but switches still apply.

I would watch that, but I'm currently at work and YouTube is blocked.

Also, is the only difference between the Wooting One and the Wooting Two is the Two has the number pad?

Please correct me if I am wrong.

My current Set-Up: (Now in RGB)

Spoiler

CPU: Intel Xeon E3 1231 V3 | CPU cooler: EVGA CLC 280 | GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 Classified @ 2050MHz | Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97MX-Gaming 5 | RAM: 4x4GB Corsair Vengeance Pro 2400MHz | PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 750w G2 | Boot SSD: Samsung 960 Evo 250GB on a SilverStone SST-ECM20 | Game Storage: Kingston HyperX 3K 240GB | Main Storage: Seagate Barracuda 500GB 7200RPM | Back-up Storage: 2x Seagate Barracuda 500GB 5900RPM in software RAID-1 | Recording Drive: Samsung SpinPoint 160GB 5400RPM | Case: NZXT S340 Elite Black/Red | OS: Windows 10 Professional | Keyboard: Cyborg V.7 | Mouse: Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum | Monitors: Dell S2716DG + HP Compaq LA1951g | Speakers: Sony PCVA-SP2 (Which sound FANTASTIC) | Headset: HyperX Cloud II

 

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15 minutes ago, PlymouthJoseph said:

I would watch that, but I'm currently at work and YouTube is blocked.

Also, is the only difference between the Wooting One and the Wooting Two is the Two has the number pad?

Please correct me if I am wrong.

Watch it at home then, when you have the chance. The Two also has usb c and is a bit quieter overall. That review should be helpful, the reviewer is very well regarded in keyboard community and will point out all the drawbacks if there are any, not a sponsored content also.

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3 hours ago, PlymouthJoseph said:

Okay, I'm after a new keyboard...

Currently using a Cyborg V7 as a temporary replacement from my Logitech G910 Orion Spark which died after 2 months when the left-shift key snapped. Logitech refused to replace it because they said it was malicious damage. I am willing to buy another keyboard again, I just hope it lasts longer.

 

I only have 2 keyboards in mind at the moment, but willing to look at others.

The keyboard I am thinking about are the Logitech G910 Orion Spectrum and the Wooting Two.

I personally am in love with what the Wooting Two has to offer, but the lack of discrete buttons for media control is very slightly putting me off.

 

I will primarily be using it for gaming, and sometimes typing for work and social media.

 

Any suggestions would be taken into consideration.

 

 - Joe

I’d recommend the K70 MK2

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1 hour ago, PlymouthJoseph said:

It's the analog which is making me want to go for that keyboard

But what is really the benefit of that? There were lots of complaints as the original Wooting One first launched, because in many games it's not supported and if you do the workaround it is still way better of an option to go a controller for racing and use a sprint key like you would normally.

 

Its more of a gimmick than actually giving you an advantage in daily usage.

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4 minutes ago, caspar! said:

But what is really the benefit of that? There were lots of complaints as the original Wooting One first launched, because in many games it's not supported and if you do the workaround it is still way better of an option to go a controller for racing and use a sprint key like you would normally.

 

Its more of a gimmick than actually giving you an advantage in daily usage.

For me personally, it's not for the competitive edge per say, but kinda for its uniqueness overall. I have never really had a mechanical keyboard because the only one I have used was the G910 which broke after 2 months and Logitech refused to replace it. 

I was also thinking about using it because I type quite heavy and I was hoping I could use it to train myself to type lighter. I was starting to do that with the Logitech, but never quite fully got into it and I had to revert to my spare keyboard with rubber dome keys.

My current Set-Up: (Now in RGB)

Spoiler

CPU: Intel Xeon E3 1231 V3 | CPU cooler: EVGA CLC 280 | GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 Classified @ 2050MHz | Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97MX-Gaming 5 | RAM: 4x4GB Corsair Vengeance Pro 2400MHz | PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 750w G2 | Boot SSD: Samsung 960 Evo 250GB on a SilverStone SST-ECM20 | Game Storage: Kingston HyperX 3K 240GB | Main Storage: Seagate Barracuda 500GB 7200RPM | Back-up Storage: 2x Seagate Barracuda 500GB 5900RPM in software RAID-1 | Recording Drive: Samsung SpinPoint 160GB 5400RPM | Case: NZXT S340 Elite Black/Red | OS: Windows 10 Professional | Keyboard: Cyborg V.7 | Mouse: Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum | Monitors: Dell S2716DG + HP Compaq LA1951g | Speakers: Sony PCVA-SP2 (Which sound FANTASTIC) | Headset: HyperX Cloud II

 

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3 minutes ago, PlymouthJoseph said:

For me personally, it's not for the competitive edge per say, but kinda for its uniqueness overall. I have never really had a mechanical keyboard because the only one I have used was the G910 which broke after 2 months and Logitech refused to replace it. 

I was also thinking about using it because I type quite heavy and I was hoping I could use it to train myself to type lighter. I was starting to do that with the Logitech, but never quite fully got into it and I had to revert to my spare keyboard with rubber dome keys.

btw, the wooting is no mechanical keyboard to be exact ;)

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2 minutes ago, caspar! said:

btw, the wooting is no mechanical keyboard to be exact ;)

Yeah, I know. One of the biggest things I will miss if I will choose to buy it... The tactile feel of a Cherry MX-Brown. I had a similar feel with the Romer-G switches, but they were mushy at the end like many other people say, and the MX-Browns are now, I believe.

 

I am just looking for a keyboard with very strong build quality, will last me a few years and is awesome to use and has some unique functionality. Hence I was looking at the Wooting Two, which is said to have a 100m keystrokes before they fail. I don't know how accurate this is, simply because it IR laser can burn out or something.

My current Set-Up: (Now in RGB)

Spoiler

CPU: Intel Xeon E3 1231 V3 | CPU cooler: EVGA CLC 280 | GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 Classified @ 2050MHz | Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97MX-Gaming 5 | RAM: 4x4GB Corsair Vengeance Pro 2400MHz | PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 750w G2 | Boot SSD: Samsung 960 Evo 250GB on a SilverStone SST-ECM20 | Game Storage: Kingston HyperX 3K 240GB | Main Storage: Seagate Barracuda 500GB 7200RPM | Back-up Storage: 2x Seagate Barracuda 500GB 5900RPM in software RAID-1 | Recording Drive: Samsung SpinPoint 160GB 5400RPM | Case: NZXT S340 Elite Black/Red | OS: Windows 10 Professional | Keyboard: Cyborg V.7 | Mouse: Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum | Monitors: Dell S2716DG + HP Compaq LA1951g | Speakers: Sony PCVA-SP2 (Which sound FANTASTIC) | Headset: HyperX Cloud II

 

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37 minutes ago, PlymouthJoseph said:

Hence I was looking at the Wooting Two, which is said to have a 100m keystrokes before they fail. I don't know how accurate this is, simply because it IR laser can burn out or something.

I mean i don't know what you do all day - but in one year of very heavy gaming i had about 500K on the key i hit the most. (w)

 

So even if you would game all the time and your usage wasn't spread out on all keys - it would take 20 years to reach 10M key strokes on a key.

 

 

The one thing to be concerned about is space bars starting to rattle and have sag on one side.

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4 minutes ago, caspar! said:

I mean i don't know what you do all day - but in one year of very heavy gaming i had about 500K on the key i hit the most. (w)

 

So even if you would game all the time and your usage wasn't spread out on all keys - it would take 20 years to reach 10M key strokes on a key.

 

 

The one thing to be concerned about is space bars starting to rattle and have sag on one side.

I think I over anticipated how much I type. :/ I'm mainly after a keyboard that will last me a fair few years without breaking, espically considering I am quite heavy on the shift and space bar.

 

If I were to get a mechanical keyboard, it would definitely have to be a MX-Brown or a MX-Clear. (Tactile bump without the audible click) but I still really like the idea of the analog keys personally (Mainly for the customisability), but I don't know the lifespan on them when compared to other keyboards and it is that which is worrying me. I would also miss the tactile feedback, but I don't get that now with my current rubber dome keyboard so I won't be missing out too much.

My current Set-Up: (Now in RGB)

Spoiler

CPU: Intel Xeon E3 1231 V3 | CPU cooler: EVGA CLC 280 | GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 Classified @ 2050MHz | Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97MX-Gaming 5 | RAM: 4x4GB Corsair Vengeance Pro 2400MHz | PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 750w G2 | Boot SSD: Samsung 960 Evo 250GB on a SilverStone SST-ECM20 | Game Storage: Kingston HyperX 3K 240GB | Main Storage: Seagate Barracuda 500GB 7200RPM | Back-up Storage: 2x Seagate Barracuda 500GB 5900RPM in software RAID-1 | Recording Drive: Samsung SpinPoint 160GB 5400RPM | Case: NZXT S340 Elite Black/Red | OS: Windows 10 Professional | Keyboard: Cyborg V.7 | Mouse: Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum | Monitors: Dell S2716DG + HP Compaq LA1951g | Speakers: Sony PCVA-SP2 (Which sound FANTASTIC) | Headset: HyperX Cloud II

 

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1 minute ago, PlymouthJoseph said:

If I were to get a mechanical keyboard, it would definitely have to be a MX-Brown or a MX-Clear. (Tactile bump without the audible click) but I still really like the idea of the analog keys personally (Mainly for the customisability), but I don't know the lifespan on them when compared to other keyboards and it is that which is worrying me. I would also miss the tactile feedback, but I don't get that now with my current rubber dome keyboard so I won't be missing out too much.

Have you actually tried a Tactile Keyboard for a longer period of time before? Many people prefer linear switches for being more smooth.

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Just now, caspar! said:

Have you actually tried a Tactile Keyboard for a longer period of time before? Many people prefer linear switches for being more smooth.

For a long time, no. The G910 had a slight tactile feedback (I believe) and I loved every single keystroke with that keyboard.

I might be wrong with that through.

My current Set-Up: (Now in RGB)

Spoiler

CPU: Intel Xeon E3 1231 V3 | CPU cooler: EVGA CLC 280 | GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 Classified @ 2050MHz | Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97MX-Gaming 5 | RAM: 4x4GB Corsair Vengeance Pro 2400MHz | PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 750w G2 | Boot SSD: Samsung 960 Evo 250GB on a SilverStone SST-ECM20 | Game Storage: Kingston HyperX 3K 240GB | Main Storage: Seagate Barracuda 500GB 7200RPM | Back-up Storage: 2x Seagate Barracuda 500GB 5900RPM in software RAID-1 | Recording Drive: Samsung SpinPoint 160GB 5400RPM | Case: NZXT S340 Elite Black/Red | OS: Windows 10 Professional | Keyboard: Cyborg V.7 | Mouse: Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum | Monitors: Dell S2716DG + HP Compaq LA1951g | Speakers: Sony PCVA-SP2 (Which sound FANTASTIC) | Headset: HyperX Cloud II

 

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5 hours ago, PlymouthJoseph said:

Okay, I'm after a new keyboard...

Currently using a Cyborg V7 as a temporary replacement from my Logitech G910 Orion Spark which died after 2 months when the left-shift key snapped. Logitech refused to replace it because they said it was malicious damage. I am willing to buy another keyboard again, I just hope it lasts longer.

 

I only have 2 keyboards in mind at the moment, but willing to look at others.

The keyboard I am thinking about are the Logitech G910 Orion Spectrum and the Wooting Two.

I personally am in love with what the Wooting Two has to offer, but the lack of discrete buttons for media control is very slightly putting me off.

 

I will primarily be using it for gaming, and sometimes typing for work and social media.

 

Any suggestions would be taken into consideration.

 

 - Joe

Maybe @geo3 @b emoji care to offer some kind of insight or some keyboard recommendation?

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Personally I love my Cooler Master Masterkeys MK750. It's got dedicated media keys, I have it with brown switches and the build quality is amazing. Only the keycaps let it down but other than that it's amazing 

|| CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 1600 (@3.9GHz) || Motherboard: ASUS Prime B350 Plus || Cooler: Arctic Freezer 33 eSports Edition || GPU: EVGA GTX 1070 SC || Memory: 16GB G.Skill Trident Z RGB C16 (@2933MHz) || SSD: SanDisk 128GB || HDD: WD Blue 2TB, Toshiba 2TB, Transcend 1TB || PSU: Corsair RM550x || Case: Fractal Design Focus G || Monitor: 2x AOC 23” I2369VM IPS Full HD, Samsung 32" LED TV Monitor || Mouse: Logitech G703 Wireless || Keyboard: Cooler Master MK750 RGB (Cherry MX Brown) || Speakers: Dell Stereo Speakers || Headphones: Sennheiser HD 4.40 BT / Samsung Galaxy Buds ||

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I do own a Wooting One (Linear55cn) for about a month and a Ducky One Fullsize with MX-Browns for about a year and both a really difficult to compare.

 

I was really impressed when i got the Ducky. Great keycaps, solid build quality and weight, thanks to the inner metal plate, and I nice responsive key feel.

 

Then I got the Wooting and my first impression was it feels a bit light, its keycaps could be better, they tend to get a bit greasy and it does make more noise while typing, so not the best first impression.

 

On first use the Wooting quickly convinced me of its benefits. In game I dont do the same full "press release" keystroke I do while typing, so there is way less noise. The "cheaper" keycaps actually feel smoother then the Ducky's and instead of the Browns tactile bump, i can just use my fingers own "compression" to determine the pressure. As Luke said in the LTT-review: "... it was soft in a good way, kind of like typing on boobs."

 

And yeah the "I am a controller" feature can be a bit tricky, it can be difficult to setup and requires me to train my muscle memory just like getting used to any new controller, joystick, whatever. But people tend to overlook the other features like the ability to set the activation point which lets you adjust the keyboard to your typing and the Dynamic-Keystroke which gives it an impressive macro functionality.

 

And unlike the Ducky, where I have to setup macros on the keyboard itself, the Wootility (love that name) software is really easy to use.

 

 

 

 

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Go 60% and never look back!

 

Your current Cyborg V7 looks like can occupied the entire mouse mat surface, leaving no space for mouse to move.

My system specs:

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CPU: Intel Core i7-8700K, 5GHz Delidded LM || CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-C14S w/ NF-A15 & NF-A14 Chromax fans in push-pull cofiguration || Motherboard: MSI Z370i Gaming Pro Carbon AC || RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 2x8Gb 2666 || GPU: EVGA GTX 1060 6Gb FTW2+ DT || Storage: Samsung 860 Evo M.2 SATA SSD 250Gb, 2x 2.5" HDDs 1Tb & 500Gb || ODD: 9mm Slim DVD RW || PSU: Corsair SF600 80+ Platinum || Case: Cougar QBX + 1x Noctua NF-R8 front intake + 2x Noctua NF-F12 iPPC top exhaust + Cougar stock 92mm DC fan rear exhaust || Monitor: ASUS VG248QE || Keyboard: Ducky One 2 Mini Cherry MX Red || Mouse: Logitech G703 || Audio: Corsair HS70 Wireless || Other: XBox One S Controler

My build logs:

 

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