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Cable power supply

IgnaBilli official

I have a problem because my principal cable (The one that goes from the wall to the power supply)

broke and i dont know if i can put an old cable that cames with a 250 power supply. And the one im using now is the evga 500 80+

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7 minutes ago, IgnaBilli official said:

I have a problem because my principal cable (The one that goes from the wall to the power supply)

broke and i dont know if i can put an old cable that cames with a 250 power supply. And the one im using now is the evga 500 80+

What is the wire gauge? If it's at least 18 gauge I'd say it's fine.

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6 minutes ago, ThatFlashCat said:

What is the wire gauge? If it's at least 18 gauge I'd say it's fine.

Just in case OP isn't aware, a thicker gauge is a smaller number, so 18 and smaller :)

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I don't have a problem...

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You can buy replacement power cords online. Search "C13 power cord" or "IEC320C13". Just make sure you get one with your country's wall plug on the end.

 

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Power-Cord-10-Foot-Black/dp/B072LNKHBB/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=TILXX52SNVWL&keywords=c13+power+cord&qid=1551401433&s=gateway&sprefix=c13+power&sr=8-3

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30 minutes ago, IgnaBilli official said:

(The one that goes from the wall to the power supply)

these cables are (supposed to be) a standard for all electrical appliances, just about any power cable that carries the appropriate quality labels will do.

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5 minutes ago, IgnaBilli official said:

How can i know the wire gague

 

It should be printed or stamped into the cable itself. 

2 minutes ago, manikyath said:

these cables are (supposed to be) a standard for all electrical appliances, just about any power cable that carries the appropriate quality labels will do.

This is not a helpful post. 

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11 minutes ago, jonnyGURU said:

This is not a helpful post. 

except that it is.

 

if the cable is not a knockoff, it will "guaranteed" work, because it is a standardized cable. the question of wire gauge in this case is irrelevant, because if the cable is not made of sufficient gauge wire, it will not carry quality labels, since those quality labels will not give the cable a pass. and if a quality label will not give it a pass, you shouldnt use it because it's probably a fire hazard. (because honestly.. the requirements for most quality labels are amazingly lenient)

 

EDIT, to clarify, this is what power cables look like over here: (note the scribblings)

Spoiler

800px-Schuco_Stecker_db.jpg

in short: no scribblings, garbage cable.

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47 minutes ago, manikyath said:

 

if the cable is not a knockoff, it will "guaranteed" work, because it is a standardized cable. the question of wire gauge in this case is irrelevant, because if the cable is not made of sufficient gauge wire, it will not carry quality labels, since those quality labels will not give the cable a pass. and if a quality label will not give it a pass, you shouldnt use it because it's probably a fire hazard. 

  Hide contents

 

 

That is all simply false information. 

 

First off, the "scribbling" you show are for the plug heads, not the cord.  And you can have lower gauge wire and still have a certified cord, it's simply certified for use at lower wattages. 

 

When you buy a Corsair 450W or 550W PSU, it going to come with a CERTIFIED power cord of thinner gauge than the CERTIFIED cord that comes with the same series 750W or 850W.  The 1000W cord is even thicker.  The cords are CERTIFIED to supply different amounts of power. 

 

 

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Power cord that comes with HX1000 and HX1200:

Europe

EU 10A/250V, Black, 1.5mm sqrd/3C, H05VV-F, VDE, 70C, 1500mm

Power cord that comes with HX650, HX750 and HX850:

Europe

EU 10A/250V, Black, 0.75mm sqrd/3C, H05VV-F, VDE, 70C, 1500mm

Both power cords are certified with CE, CB, TUV, KCC.....

 

I used EU as an example because that's the type of power cord you said you use in your region, but you're also assuming that the OP is in Europe.  His location is not stated.  If he lives where there is low line voltage (North America, Taiwan, Japan, etc.) then there are even MORE power cord options because the current is DOUBLE.

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5 hours ago, jonnyGURU said:

That is all simply false information. 

 

First off, the "scribbling" you show are for the plug heads, not the cord.  And you can have lower gauge wire and still have a certified cord, it's simply certified for use at lower wattages. 

 

When you buy a Corsair 450W or 550W PSU, it going to come with a CERTIFIED power cord of thinner gauge than the CERTIFIED cord that comes with the same series 750W or 850W.  The 1000W cord is even thicker.  The cords are CERTIFIED to supply different amounts of power. 

 

 

appareantly i'm misinformed then.. it turns out that the USA is still the wild west, because over here every single devcie comes with the exact same power cord, since they all plug into an outlet that is fused to the same value (which is what over here dictated wire gauge. you can have a single light bulb, if it's fused at 20A, you're putting the same lead on that as a space heater)

 

also, when it is a "single unit" (as in, the cable and connector are sold attached to each other) those markings are for the entire unit, not just the plug itself.

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12 minutes ago, manikyath said:

because over here every single devcie comes with the exact same power cord,

Every device in the USA uses the same power connection? And all come with a cord that can operate at extreme conditions? And all are interchangeable?!

I learn new things every day.

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7 minutes ago, Rexper said:

Every device in the USA uses the same power connection? And all come with a cord that can operate at extreme conditions? And all are interchangeable?!

I learn new things every day.

at least in the EU things are (supposed to be) made in a way all power cords can be used for all devices. but as our friend @jonnyGURU claims things may be different over there.

 

that said, it's 500W, i seriously doubt any power cord would be made thin enough for that to be an issue..

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11 minutes ago, manikyath said:

at least in the EU things are (supposed to be) made in a way all power cords can be used for all devices. but as our friend @jonnyGURU claims things may be different over there.

He's being sarcastic. 

 

Do you know who I am?  It's LITERALLY part of my job to certify different power cords for different regions.  I've told you that different power cords are certified for use with different wattage devices and you're still going on about how every EU power cord is the same if they're certified. 

 

You're thick. 

 

14 minutes ago, manikyath said:

 @jonnyGURU

 

that said, it's 500W, i seriously doubt any power cord would be made thin enough for that to be an issue..

I agree there.  Especially if the OP is in a country that uses high line mains. The current draw would be minimal.  But you made two assumptions: That the OP is in a region that uses ~230V mains and that any "certified" power cord in the EU is suitable for any device. 

 

 

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33 minutes ago, jonnyGURU said:

Do you know who I am? 

 

I'm sure you're correct in what you're saying, but did you really just try to play the "Do you know who I am?" card? ?

 

35 minutes ago, jonnyGURU said:

You're thick. 

 

And there's no need for that, is there? If he's wrong then tell him why he's wrong, sure. But there's no need for name-calling.

If everyone should indeed "know who you are" then maybe you should act a bit more professionally and protect your reputation a bit better than this.

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32 minutes ago, DezGalbie said:

And there's no need for that, is there? If he's wrong then tell him why he's wrong, sure. But there's no need for name-calling.

He did. Several times. He even gave an example.

 

33 minutes ago, DezGalbie said:

I'm sure you're correct in what you're saying, but did you really just try to play the "Do you know who I am?" card? 

Well, in this case this is a valid point if someone is still doubting ones expertise even though this is exactly part of your profession.

 

The fact just is: at some point you have to opt for bigger wires in order to handle the current. That's electrical engineering 101. It doesn't just apply to computers, it applies to everything. You want a particularly high power induction coocktop? You better make sure your installed wires are thick enough to handle the current or you might end up with a fire hazard. And since copper is expensive you're not wasting money on putting AWG12 / 3.3mm^2 wires everywhere just to be sure. And just like @jonnyGURU said: once you go to places that don't have 230V mains your currents will rise and will require even more care in regards to wire gauge

 

In regards to computer: as long as your system isn't too powerful and therefore power hungry about any cable that came with a not too shitty device should work under regular loads. I said should and not will definitely. It's a good idea to read what's written on the cable. That won't help though if it's a shitty cheap knockoff cable - they just print on it whatever they want.

Use the quote function when answering! Mark people directly if you want an answer from them!

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1 hour ago, DezGalbie said:

 

If everyone should indeed "know who you are" then maybe you should act a bit more professionally and protect your reputation a bit better than this.

I beg your pardon, but anyone who knows who I am wouldn't have expected less of a response.  ?

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8 hours ago, DezGalbie said:

I'm sure you're correct in what you're saying, but did you really just try to play the "Do you know who I am?" card? ?

 

And there's no need for that, is there? If he's wrong then tell him why he's wrong, sure. But there's no need for name-calling.

If everyone should indeed "know who you are" then maybe you should act a bit more professionally and protect your reputation a bit better than this.

 

7 hours ago, jonnyGURU said:

I beg your pardon, but anyone who knows who I am wouldn't have expected less of a response.  ?



tbh yeah, you should expect that :D 

Main Rig: R9 5950X @ PBO, RTX 3090, 64 GB DDR4 3666, InWin 101, Full Hardline Watercooling

Server: R7 1700X @ 4.0 GHz, GTX 1080 Ti, 32GB DDR4 3000, Cooler Master NR200P, Full Soft Watercooling

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Router: R3 2200G @ stock, 4GB DDR4 2400, what are cases, stock cooler
 

I don't have a problem...

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