Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by tarfeef101

  1. Idk I'm honestly not a big air cooling guy, I like custom loops a lot. But I know there's a ton of scythe fanboys around, presumably for a reason. Bequiet dark rock, Noctua's tower coolers, and some others (check reviews, is really the answer) should all give improvements
  2. I play warframe, maybe go mining in minecraft. The former I've played enough that I don't have to focus, the latter is minecraft.
  3. About upgrades to networking gear, though: I would avoid repeaters and consumer stuff generally unless you're getting those fancy mesh kits. If you have a large enough house that one access point isn't enough, I'd get something more business or prosumer focused, at least. Lots of people gush about ubiquiti. I don't use their stuff personally, but if you like it, that's cool. I find TP-Link's EAP access points to work excellently, and be budget friendly. They in my experience have much better handoff behaviour and consistency vs consumer APs and repeaters.
  4. Lol what why are you taking my words out of context? I was summarizing OP's specific situation. Not making sweeping statements about those technologies. Not here to bicker tho so let's just not do that again and move on
  5. Yeah, flashing backwards is almost always supported (there are some weird edge cases with 300 and 400 series boards going through many generations of compatibility, but you should be fine)
  6. Okay you need to be that specific from the outset. What you said before lead me to believe you had the same problems on all protocols. However it seems like LAN is fine, powerline sucks, and wifi is even worse. In that case, consider MoCA adapters instead of powerline, and consider some of the wireless debugging+improvement advice already given (trying to find a less popular channels, use band steering where appropriate, new access points ofc always help, make sure your wireless card is good, etc)
  7. I would rather buy a better cpu cooler than 2 extra fans to replace the fractal ones
  8. if you look up your motherboard, you will see what **socket** it has. then, when you look at coolers, they should list what sockets they are compatible with. you should make sure your motherboard's socket is on that list. that's all there is to it
  9. More fans is good, and nice fans are better than bad fans. However, you will get the most benefit by removing the drive cages and opening the front door. You didn't say where you're from and where you're shopping, so i have no idea what pricing is like there. But there are many fan roundup test articles/videos online which compare tons of fans, and you can use that and cross-reference with prices in your region to find good ones that meet your budget. In Canada, where I am, Arctic F12 and P12 fans are often great value. But ofc, that may be different where you are, so I won't claim to kn
  10. Did you flash a beta BIOS to the board by any chance? I recently had an MSI Z490 board that refused to detect any USB drives after flashing it with a beta BIOS. Flashing it back to a fully supported one resolved the issue. You could be having a similar issue
  11. I mean, if the PSU turns on/off, a single click is not unexpected. If it is constantly clicking, that is a problem (but I couldn't hear that). More importantly, though, what are you expecting to happen when you hit the power button? Is your build finished, and you're expecting it to boot to the BIOS? If so, I suggest looking at the POST code if your motherboard has one, or the debug LEDs if it has those. They should give some indication as to what part of the bootup is failing. If those aren't present on your board, or you're not even getting to the point where they light up, I'd c
  12. It seems fine, I mean, it's lighting up your RAM, which means it is supplying power. What are you expecting to happen that isn't happening? From what I could see and hear, that was totally normal.
  13. Yeah I strongly encourage using that rear space for that other stuff, I think it's much better use of that space. be prepared to use 120mm fans in the front, you may not have to, but custom loop radiators and fittings are often a bit bigger than AIOs, so you may need that little extra clearance you get from using 120s in the front. also you can use the space between the mobo and front for "activities", personally i mounted some SSDs there just to put something nice to fill that space in, but you COULD do a little pump/res there if you wanted to.
  14. no, it's not like there's some big correlation between custom SSIDs (which don't have to be "fancy", whatever that means. and ofc as mentioned, you could choose not to broadcast it at all) and networks being worth penetrating. it is a pro because it indicates you probably changed the default passwords and such, making penetrating your network harder, so bad actors will be likely to target the lower-hanging fruit first
  15. np, good luck with fitting em. on the bottom, it felt like there was a decent amount of space, i wouldn't expect many issues there. at the top, it might be harder to squeeze cables through the top cutouts and such, and ram/vrm heatsink clearance could be a bit of a challenge. also i wouldn't bother with a side fan. what is it going to cool anyways, some drives, cables, and a pump??? not worth the clutter/hassle IMO. I'd rather get a quieter ATX PSU and nice D5 pump in the back rather than make it all cramped and putting in a fan with basically nothing to cool anyways. Plus, the mo
  16. I had this case for a while, and did an itx dual-rad loop in it as well. although, i used 240mm rads, not 280. no promises about clearance and compatibility there, you're on your own. In my case, here's how I handled cooling: removed the front glass. this can be done just with (a lot of) screws, and IMO still looks nice, and dramatically increases airflow did a 240 rad at the bottom for intake did a pair of 240mm fans at the front for intake did a 240 rad at the top for exhaust the PSU-side of the case was just the PSU and pump, no extra fans
  17. I'm not gonna say "it's definitely a great idea and totally fine, guaranteed" but i'll also say I've updated a zen motherboard's BIOS with the CPU naked, so there's that
  18. the amount of networks in my apartment building named `^ISP_1*` or `^ISP_2*` is very saddening Thankfully, for the most part, I've seen most ISP-provided devices coming with randomized WPA2 credentials for the WLAN by default here, but still not all and if you let a bad actor into your house, they often have those credentials on a sticker on the box. they may also have a hardware reset pin on the box which will allow them to be reset to that default, which is also not great. one thing they still get wrong very often is that they have default admin credentials which are not rand
  19. I hate to be that guy, but honestly if you cannot find the option in your BIOS (and it is definitely there), check your motherboard manual for assistance. Once you find the option, the UI should be fairly intuitive. Hard to tell you "read the screen" and not sound like a dick over the internet, but I really can't do much more than that.
  20. one other thing to note is the VRAM usage metric isn't very accurate, it more reflects how much VRAM your applications are reserving. some games (IIRC call of duty games are notorious for this) reserve way more than needed, so they'll show usage far higher than they actually need to operate. so don't pay much attention to that 40% figure. if you hit 100% AND notice poor performance when that happens, then you can be concerned
  21. I'm assuming this happened because either: Your router is provided by the ISP and you left the name as the default You bought a fairly popular third party router and again, left the name as default. So other people near you did the same, and the SSIDs look similar. Easy solution to help avoid this in the future: change the name of your network to something more unique (or don't broadcast it at all). An added benefit of doing that is it makes people think you've customized your settings, probably changed the default password, etc and therefore are less
  22. Yeah that's totally fine. I'd be concerned about crashing games, but if they tend to do that for everyone like you implied (I don't play those myself), then not much to do there. Not maxing out the VRAM is good, otherwise if you went over 100% you'd see horrible stuttering. 100% GPU usage is excellent, it means you aren't leaving any performance on the table, you're getting the full value out of your card. That's to be celebrated!
  23. Well, uh, doesn't really matter where you are, disseminating "information" not based in fact, but presenting it as such is not great. Especially here, a forum generally designed to help people who are not informed and can't discern the BS from truth on their own. To answer OP's question, they're both expensive models, and generally will perform great. As others have mentioned, models like the Asus TUF are also great, and generally cheaper. However, they're potentially unavailable right now. If you're trying to buy now, I'd honestly just get whatever is cheapest and av
  24. Honestly, I'm guessing Motherboard makers, PC OEMs, etc wanted to be able to market a bigger number without having to spend money on a more advanced controller. Now you can implement usb 3.0 but call it 3.2 (gen 1).