Thermaltake vs EK

[Benjeh]

1 minute ago, Firewrath9 said:

well, after 20m, the 120mm rad was stable at ~50c, with little freq drop (less than air coolers)

also, a D5 pump consumes 23W, which is nothing compared to GPUs sucking up 250W+, and CPUs @ 100W+.

a 360mm rad thats twice as thick as a 120mm + 240mm aio, and that is copper can easily compensate.

Cool graph, still doesn't really show real world results however. I mean no one plays a game for 1600s, it also doesn't show ambient temps increasing in a room as you game either. From my experience 120mm for a GPU is not enough unless like GN you play a game for 26 mins at a time....

[Benjeh]

Even EK recommend 120mm plus one more...
 

Quote

Rule of thumb is to use at least one 120mm radiator (section) per each water cooled component plus one 'spare'.

For example, if one is liquid cooling a CPU and a single high-performance graphics card it is recommended at least one 240mm (2x 120mm) radiator for good performance. Ideally, one would get a 360mm (3x 120mm) radiator for best performance. Motherboard- and memory water blocks usually have lower power output therefore they are not included in this equation.
 

Source

 

Although I don't agree with this if overclocking, 240mm per will leave your stuff a bit toasty

[Firewrath9]

1 hour ago, Benjeh said:

Cool graph, still doesn't really show real world results however. I mean no one plays a game for 1600s, it also doesn't show ambient temps increasing in a room as you game either. From my experience 120mm for a GPU is not enough unless like GN you play a game for 26 mins at a time....

The thing is, the temps aren't rising, even a little bit, and not everybody puts their PC in a closet, where you have like 3 cubic feet of air. A pair of 1080 tis will dissapate 500W into a room, and my AC (and most peoples) can easily handle that. Hell, my lightbulbs in my room consume more electricity (I have a desk lamp, and like 8 lightbulbs (all aren't LED, although I might upgrade))

 

[Firewrath9]

1 hour ago, Benjeh said:

Even EK recommend 120mm plus one more...
 

Source

 

Although I don't agree with this if overclocking, 240mm per will leave your stuff a bit toasty

It says " one is liquid cooling a CPU and a single high-performance graphics card it is recommended at least one 240mm (2x 120mm) radiator for good performance. Ideally, one would get a 360mm (3x 120mm) radiator for best performance"

and I'm pretty sure that's talking about regular ~30mm thick radiators.

a 60mm will have at least 50% more cooling potential.

 

 

[Maticks]

I use a combination of EK and TT, i like TT Case's to work in the P5 and W200 i have.

 

the TT Pumps are fine they are rebadged D5's.

TT Radiators are thin and experience some mixed metal issues, in most cases they are aluminum and not full copper.

TT Fluid is also really bad, clogging systems and even separating in un opened bottles. 

 

EK i use for Waterblocks though i also do have what is reported the stripping of the nickel plating from the block, this happens with the flow rate turned up on the pump.

When you use fluids such as nano particles in Mayhems Pastel or other liquids suspending colour.

If you sand blast a metal block its going to strip a coating off as well pushing particles at high speed into a block is going to do the same thing on a smaller scale, over time its going to strip away some of that coating.

That being said pure copper is underneath it.

 

I would use an EK Rad or Alphacool both are full Copper.

EK Fittings or equal that are known to be Copper or Brass.

[Benjeh]

2 hours ago, Firewrath9 said:

The thing is, the temps aren't rising, even a little bit, and not everybody puts their PC in a closet, where you have like 3 cubic feet of air. A pair of 1080 tis will dissapate 500W into a room, and my AC (and most peoples) can easily handle that. Hell, my lightbulbs in my room consume more electricity (I have a desk lamp, and like 8 lightbulbs (all aren't LED, although I might upgrade))

 

We don't have AC in our homes here in the UK and given our buddy here lives in Slovakia I don't think thats a valid point either. I would upgrade to LED if you're consuming that much wattage too.

2 hours ago, Firewrath9 said:

It says " one is liquid cooling a CPU and a single high-performance graphics card it is recommended at least one 240mm (2x 120mm) radiator for good performance. Ideally, one would get a 360mm (3x 120mm) radiator for best performance"

and I'm pretty sure that's talking about regular ~30mm thick radiators.

a 60mm will have at least 50% more cooling potential.

Spoiler

 

 

That's really not how it works... there's a lot of variables unaccounted for that statement. Also in the video Jay says that he suggests a minimum of 240mm per component. Running benchmarks again for 20 mins is not a real world test, it also doesn't help he's doing it in a garage with no heating and given his ego, I would bet he left windows etc open to prove people wrong. A radiator and its performance depends on surface area, thickness, fin design and FPI then the fans it is paired with, then also how many fans it has ie 6 in push pull instead of push or pull. Then all of that is affected by ambient temps which you've not provided a single shred of evidence to show more than 26mins of synthetic benchmarks.

I'd also like to point out that Jay doesn't show the frequency change due to the heat going past the stepping threshold for the 970. It makes me laugh because in the first test he shows this graph, and you can see it hasn't budged at all, then after the 2nd test the graph is nowhere to be seen oddly? No its because Jay doesn't like being wrong and I say that as a fan of his.
 

You might like thick rads but you've not asked our fella here what case he's putting it in, and I can tell you now, a 45mm + 25mm fan setup is going to take up a lot of space where the res will sit, and putting it in a push pull config is deffo a no go for a front mount. He also wants to use ARGB fans, so mounthing the rad at the top is going to look scuffed. The Case he has, he has about 4 mounting points for various sized rads, might as well use them not have fans screaming away and enjoy silence and low temps.

 

8 minutes ago, Maticks said:

I use a combination of EK and TT, i like TT Case's to work in the P5 and W200 i have.

 

the TT Pumps are fine they are rebadged D5's.

TT Radiators are thin and experience some mixed metal issues, in most cases they are aluminum and not full copper.

TT Fluid is also really bad, clogging systems and even separating in un opened bottles. 

 

EK i use for Waterblocks though i also do have what is reported the stripping of the nickel plating from the block, this happens with the flow rate turned up on the pump.

When you use fluids such as nano particles in Mayhems Pastel or other liquids suspending colour.

If you sand blast a metal block its going to strip a coating off as well pushing particles at high speed into a block is going to do the same thing on a smaller scale, over time its going to strip away some of that coating.

That being said pure copper is underneath it.

 

I would use an EK Rad or Alphacool both are full Copper.

EK Fittings or equal that are known to be Copper or Brass.

My EK waterblock for the CPU has stripped twice now, I don't use pastels just De-ionized and red dye, my pump which is a D5 is set to the highest setting but when I had my AMD rig it was set to the highest on that and the nickel is fine. Not sure if EK are cutting back on the nickel plating process again like in the past but I'm certainly not happy with 2 nickel blocks going bad. Most fittings unless stated are brass, very few will be copper, brass and copper in rads is fine, aluminium mixed with brass or copper is a big no no.

 

The D5 pumps are made by Liang and rebadged by TT, EK, Alphacool etc.

[andrewmp6]

If you care about cooling,Go hardware labs rads and heatkiller blocks.

[MaratM]

it is not hard to mod existing EK RGB products to ARGB

All you need is a 5v ARGB strip and some soldering skills.

[stonowinnerz]

6 hours ago, MaratM said:

it is not hard to mod existing EK RGB products to ARGB

All you need is a 5v ARGB strip and some soldering skills.

Hey,

haha yeah I thought about that but I don't have that much soldering experience 

[MaratM]

5 minutes ago, stonowinnerz said:

Hey,

haha yeah I thought about that but I don't have that much soldering experience 

It is never too late tolearn new skills)))

[Firewrath9]

13 hours ago, Benjeh said:

-snip-

You might like thick rads but you've not asked our fella here what case he's putting it in, and I can tell you now, a 45mm + 25mm fan setup is going to take up a lot of space where the res will sit, and putting it in a push pull config is deffo a no go for a front mount. He also wants to use ARGB fans, so mounthing the rad at the top is going to look scuffed. The Case he has, he has about 4 mounting points for various sized rads, might as well use them not have fans screaming away and enjoy silence and low temps.

He said in his OP that he has a Meshify S2, which has PLENTY of space (and great airflow), and you can definitely fit a 60mm+25mm fan in the front, and still have space for GPU + res+Rad. 

If the GPU touches the rad, or gets close, you can always mount the res above the gpu, and the pump below.

this is the non-meshify model, but its the exact same inside, and the section with the slots (where rad/pump etc goes) looks to be ~1/4-1/5 of the case, and assuming its 1/5, thats still 100mm of space.

 

BTW: I don't want to argue anymore, I can respect your differing belief about watercooling, so I prob won't reply if you quote me or tag me.

[Benjeh]

3 minutes ago, Firewrath9 said:

He said in his OP that he has a Meshify S2, which has PLENTY of space (and great airflow), and you can definitely fit a 60mm+25mm fan in the front, and still have space for GPU + res+Rad. 

If the GPU touches the rad, or gets close, you can always mount the res above the gpu, and the pump below.

 

Spoiler

 

this is the non-meshify model, but its the exact same inside, and the section with the slots (where rad/pump etc goes) looks to be ~1/4-1/5 of the case, and assuming its 1/5, thats still 100mm of space.

 

BTW: I don't want to argue anymore, I can respect your differing belief about watercooling, so I prob won't reply if you quote me or tag me.

It seems we won't agree so I respect your views enough to not cause a massive war of words, there's nothing wrong with varied opinions and I hope you don't think ill of me as a result as I would love to discuss things with you in the future on here. I hope you're having a nice day and I appologise if i've come across as negative towards you that was never my intention. 

[Mick Naughty]

Prefer the finish of the ek fittings but like the functionality of tt fittings. Prefer ek blocks, that way they all look the same. Wouldn’t get eithers radiator. Ek scratch too easy and nothing specially about Tt. 

 

Think the ek pumps looks better but the tt have a lot of options that are more suited for custom with most builds. 

 

And ek is the only one that’s makes certain blocks for my boards but most are old and the others didn’t have the capital to be expand like that back then.