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techswede

Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 100k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

26 minutes ago, Drak3 said:

Don't lump me in with them. I'm an enthusiast of mechanic design, be it engines, weaponry, or productive machinery. Not a guy with a wrench that reads the marketing garbage AFE/insert other "enthusiast" brand that can't legally warranty half of their products.

 

I fail to see a correlation between people screeching variations of "forced induction is more efficient!!! Reclaimed energy!!!" and anything I've said.

If you can't be civil. Please leave

 

Edit. That goes for everyone in the thread

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8 hours ago, pinksnowbirdie said:

okay, so looking at some Mazda6 Wagons. How expensive do you think repairing this rust would be? 

 

it's on both rear wheel wells

Are you sure those are the only places it's on? It's pretty easy to fix it yourself, not worth paying someone because they're reconstructing a good part of the car at that point. 


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17 hours ago, pinksnowbirdie said:

okay, so looking at some Mazda6 Wagons. How expensive do you think repairing this rust would be? ij3ej9.png

q9yzs6.png

it's on both rear wheel wells

do not buy mazdas of that and previous generation... unless you can find one from a salt/winter free place ... you will spend like 100x the car is worth on rust repair 


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Had an engine light pop on while I was pussy footin around driving to somewhere with the GF, ran fine so wasn't worried, borrowed the little code reader home and pulled a P0420. Checked the freeze frame, nothing weird, cleared it, took it into work today and my cat is weak but not bad. If I get it hot quickly it looks OK but if I let it cool off and run the engine gently it starts looking worn out, I'll worry about it later on when the light comes on again or more frequently. I'll grab a good high flow high metals converter and have a good exhaust shop weld it in. I'm not great at exhaust welding.

 

The Dunlop Z3 are super suction cup noisy on smooth cement roads, it's hilariously so much worse than the Z2's were. The do stick nice, haven't pushed it but did give it a couple quick turns and harder stops and they feel nice. I can't wait till the 100 mile probation is up and I can find something twisty to try them on.

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On 9/1/2019 at 11:08 PM, vinyldash303 said:

My main consern with doing leds for lighting on the tahoe was not being like that Tundra you spoke about in the discord some months ago that had light vomiting HIDs. The bulbs I’ve used don’t do that. As long as its not fucking up others, I’m gonna keep running them. The bulbs pattern just as good as the halogens I took out, only difference is I can actually see now. 

 

Neil DeGrasse Tyson also also laughed at SpaceX developing reusable rockets. Lad’s one of the smartest idiots I’ve ever listened to. I Respect the man, but damn. 

 

Sure. I’ve got the 6 speed, so it doesn’t have cylinder deactivation. I got 36.7 mpg the other day driving between flagstaff and Payson AZ.

Probably not any worse than what you get now honestly. My J30 gets about the same economy as the k24 of the same generation. I know I’m a bit of a fanboy, and biased because I own one, but man the J30 is a great, underrated engine.

 

Wow. That would drive me nuts. I like my hydraulic steering, even if it’s crazy heavy in the Accord.

what happened to your post? seems like it got some of my old posts jacked into it. or am I the only one who sees this?


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1 hour ago, Bitter said:

Had an engine light pop on while I was pussy footin around driving to somewhere with the GF, ran fine so wasn't worried, borrowed the little code reader home and pulled a P0420. Checked the freeze frame, nothing weird, cleared it, took it into work today and my cat is weak but not bad. If I get it hot quickly it looks OK but if I let it cool off and run the engine gently it starts looking worn out, I'll worry about it later on when the light comes on again or more frequently. I'll grab a good high flow high metals converter and have a good exhaust shop weld it in. I'm not great at exhaust welding.

 

The Dunlop Z3 are super suction cup noisy on smooth cement roads, it's hilariously so much worse than the Z2's were. The do stick nice, haven't pushed it but did give it a couple quick turns and harder stops and they feel nice. I can't wait till the 100 mile probation is up and I can find something twisty to try them on.

RE-71R’s are extremely noisy. The noisiest tire I’ve driven on actually 

 

but  glued to the road you shall be. Guess it’s just a price you pay 


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1 hour ago, 711jrp said:

spacer.png

That thing is just ugly, what is it. 


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52 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

RE-71R’s are extremely noisy. The noisiest tire I’ve driven on actually 

 

but  glued to the road you shall be. Guess it’s just a price you pay 

They're otherwise fairly tame tires, they take up highway joints well and aren't any louder than other tires for the most part...until you get them on something really smooth. Worn cement, probably glossy worn asphalt, and the sealer tar they use on cracks. The Z2's made the sucker noises on the last two but not the cement, these sucker noise on the cement. It sounds like a cartoon octopus rolling down the road. And I'm stuck to the road like a cartoon octopus too.

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16 hours ago, veldora said:

Are you sure those are the only places it's on? It's pretty easy to fix it yourself, not worth paying someone because they're reconstructing a good part of the car at that point. 

that was my largest question was do y'all think that it's something I can more easily repair following something like this

 

I'm sure there's some underbody rust.

 

7 hours ago, PandaCopyRight said:

do not buy mazdas of that and previous generation... unless you can find one from a salt/winter free place ... you will spend like 100x the car is worth on rust repair 

even if I did it myself?

Getting one up here from the southern part of the country would be way too costly tbh

 

Seriously any car up here, I'd be better off getting down south.

Minnesota's winters absolutely molests cars.

there was a Dodge Dakota that one side of the bed was just horribly rusted. I see lots of 3rd gen 4Runners with rusted away bumpers.


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7 minutes ago, pinksnowbirdie said:

that was my largest question was do y'all think that it's something I can more easily repair following something like this

 

I'm sure there's some underbody rust.

 

even if I did it myself?

Getting one up here from the southern part of the country would be way too costly tbh

 

Seriously any car up here, I'd be better off getting down south.

Minnesota's winters absolutely molests cars.

there was a Dodge Dakota that one side of the bed was just horribly rusted. I see lots of 3rd gen 4Runners with rusted away bumpers.

It's really just knowing the extent. My car had holes in the quarter panels of rust, but no rust anywhere else. Fixing it yourself would be the cheapest option. There's tons of info. But how far you want to get with working on a car you just bought is up to you. I don't think you really wanna work on a car right away after buying it. Especially rust repair, it's not fun work. You're at the mercy of weather if you don't have a garage. 

You'll have to add the cost of grinder wheels(or some power tool to cut off the old metal) and you'll need access to a welder because that's getting into the door jamb. Metal to replace the rust, seam sealer, bondo, primer, paint, clear coat. Not everyone flocks to do it for a reason. 

Wheel wells aren't fun to recreate, because of all the curves you need to bend the metal and bond it to the car. 

 

Not trying to discourage you, unless you can get the car for cheap. It's a job to fix rust. Especially that much. 


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9 minutes ago, veldora said:

It's really just knowing the extent. My car had holes in the quarter panels of rust, but no rust anywhere else. Fixing it yourself would be the cheapest option. There's tons of info. But how far you want to get with working on a car you just bought is up to you. I don't think you really wanna work on a car right away after buying it. Especially rust repair, it's not fun work. You're at the mercy of weather if you don't have a garage. 

You'll have to add the cost of grinder wheels(or some power tool to cut off the old metal) and you'll need access to a welder because that's getting into the door jamb. Metal to replace the rust, seam sealer, bondo, primer, paint, clear coat. Not everyone flocks to do it for a reason. 

Wheel wells aren't fun to recreate, because of all the curves you need to bend the metal and bond it to the car. 

 

Not trying to discourage you, unless you can get the car for cheap. It's a job to fix rust. Especially that much. 

see yeah, the amount of rust on that one discourages me because well it's beyond what I wanna do.


I found another one that I presume has sold that had way less rust that needed to be taken care of.

 

Trust me, it sucks living in a northern state and people not taking the best care of their cars and manufacturers not coating their cars right


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6 hours ago, FuzzyYellow said:

what happened to your post? seems like it got some of my old posts jacked into it. or am I the only one who sees this?

man IDK 


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6 hours ago, pinksnowbirdie said:

 

Trust me, it sucks living in a northern state and people not taking the best care of their cars and manufacturers not coating their cars right

OH I know lol, I live in PA. My car had a bag of salt leak in it with leaky gaskets from my great grandma ?. So imagine water and salt in a trunk. I know. ?


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7 hours ago, veldora said:

That thing is just ugly, what is it. 

It's an MG ZT, a sporty version of the Rover 75. 


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18 hours ago, pinksnowbirdie said:

that was my largest question was do y'all think that it's something I can more easily repair following something like this

 

I'm sure there's some underbody rust.

 

even if I did it myself?

Getting one up here from the southern part of the country would be way too costly tbh

 

Seriously any car up here, I'd be better off getting down south.

Minnesota's winters absolutely molests cars.

there was a Dodge Dakota that one side of the bed was just horribly rusted. I see lots of 3rd gen 4Runners with rusted away bumpers.

That DIY rust repair video is mainly on small holes on non structural parts of the car ... or just surface rust ... and IMO not fully the right way to fix rust
the car looks like it will need a lot of rust cut out and new metal welded in and that is not easy or cheap ... and is super time consuming if you want to do it right
this video would be quite good representation on what needs to be done ... if its anywhere nearly as bad as i think the mazda 6 you posted is

 


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The thread is back!! Wooohooo


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And no one posts anything lol


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Nothing much going on honestly. Honda came up with this awesome system where they sent us all stripped down samsung galaxy s9+s that use a Honda app to verify proper installation of passenger inflators. You have to use it otherwise your warranty claim is denied. Uses the 3d cameras or whatever. Kinda pointless. The inflators are so fool proof to install. Just unnecessary hoops to jump through because luber goobers that are some reason allowed to install inflators messed up a bunch. 


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1 hour ago, vetali said:

Nothing much going on honestly. Honda came up with this awesome system where they sent us all stripped down samsung galaxy s9+s that use a Honda app to verify proper installation of passenger inflators. You have to use it otherwise your warranty claim is denied. Uses the 3d cameras or whatever. Kinda pointless. The inflators are so fool proof to install. Just unnecessary hoops to jump through because luber goobers that are some reason allowed to install inflators messed up a bunch. 

Pretty serious thing if you get it wrong tho so I can see why they are being extra careful 


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33 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

Pretty serious thing if you get it wrong tho so I can see why they are being extra careful 

Its fool proof. There are tabs and blockers to prevent installing backwards, upside down, crooked, or any other way. If you can't figure that out, then maybe find a different career because you're gonna screw up a lot worse things that actually will cause an accident. 


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5 minutes ago, vetali said:

Its fool proof. There are tabs and blockers to prevent installing backwards, upside down, crooked, or any other way. If you can't figure that out, then maybe find a different career because you're gonna screw up a lot worse things that actually will cause an accident. 

Reminds me of the kid in my brakes class that got the box end of the wrench stuck on the line while he was working on a car. Teacher took him aside and gently suggested he find a different career path.

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21 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Reminds me of the kid in my brakes class that got the box end of the wrench stuck on the line while he was working on a car. Teacher took him aside and gently suggested he find a different career path.

I remember when I was in school we had basic tasks that had to be done every quarter. One was drilling a hole in 3/8 steel and tapping it then torquing it. This dude drilled it fine. Then he put the tap on the drill and I stopped him because I didn't feel like extracting it.

 

Another time in school I was putting a transmission in a ranger, which was harder than I thought it would be. Anyway I had my partner go to the front and guide me to the bell housing because the converter studs. Dude says hold on so I figure hes gonna adjust something. He takes the torque convertor and pulls it to the flexplate, detaching it from the pump. 

 

Our school was attached to the welding shop too, and of course every welder ever has to drive a big lifted piece of shit diesel. One guy happened to bring his 30 foot trailer along with him and parked it pretty far back from our bays. Enough to maneuver cars in and out at least. Somebody takes the car out full send in reverse right into the trailer. 

 

None of those people made it past their first quarter. 


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29 minutes ago, vetali said:

Then he put the tap on the drill

A small part of me died when I read that.

 

Though I would have gently warned him that if he got it stuck he'd have to extract it himself. Then see if he picks up or not


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I’m by no means a mechanic but at least I know a tap isn’t really meant to be used with a drill, lol. 


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