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10 Cell 1A Lithium Charger under 10$

iamdarkyoshi

Another under 10$ project. This time I am making a 10 cell 1A per cell lithium charger. I have bought the following two items:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121947820772?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=420938314855&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/252335209689?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

I am only going to use half of the battery holders that I bought. The other ones will be spares.

 

I plan to mount these on top of an old ATX PSU and connect the chargers to the 5V rail. This PSU has a 25A 5V rail, so I am well within its ratings.

IMG_20160617_174154.jpg

IMG_20160617_174202.jpg

I have already added a power switch (grounds the green wire)

 

I plan to update this thread as I make more progress.

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following, because currently this is how i'm charging lithium:

4bceb9f2d0.jpg

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Just now, iamdarkyoshi said:

Okay that is brilliant.

should kinda "warn" you i guess... i looked into decent ways of charging lithium, and a lot of "enthousiasts" seem to be against those 8-pin charge circuit things (if they're the generic ones i'm guessing they are), because they arent as reliable as would be fit, and if they fail they usually do so rather spectacularly.

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3 minutes ago, manikyath said:

should kinda "warn" you i guess... i looked into decent ways of charging lithium, and a lot of "enthousiasts" seem to be against those 8-pin charge circuit things (if they're the generic ones i'm guessing they are), because they arent as reliable as would be fit, and if they fail they usually do so rather spectacularly.

Julian has been using them for a long time without issues. I guess if it detonates, I get to watch fireworks. My current way of charging lithium can be seen as @The Cool n00B's profile banner thing. Which came from here:

 

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1 minute ago, iamdarkyoshi said:

Julian has been using them for a long time without issues. I guess if it detonates, I get to watch fireworks. My current way of charging lithium can be seen as @The Cool n00B's profile banner thing.

well, the conclusion of a lot of more electronics oriented forums is pretty simple:

for something quick & dirty (a $10 solution? ;)) they suffice, if you want to do it properly the solution is a constant current source, preferably at the exact rating the battery prescribes, that shuts off the moment it hits 4.2 volts (or 4.3 for some newer cells, or 4.1 for chinese garbage), preferably also with a thermal control system.

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2 minutes ago, manikyath said:

well, the conclusion of a lot of more electronics oriented forums is pretty simple:

for something quick & dirty (a $10 solution? ;)) they suffice, if you want to do it properly the solution is a constant current source, preferably at the exact rating the battery prescribes, that shuts off the moment it hits 4.2 volts (or 4.3 for some newer cells, or 4.1 for chinese garbage), preferably also with a thermal control system.

I have always wondered about directly charging them off of my bench supply (which does CC and CV, counts mAH, and can be set to shut off after a certain mAH)

 

But I don't want to risk backfeeding into the supply...

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Just now, iamdarkyoshi said:

But I don't want to risk backfeeding into the supply...

diode ;) (account for voltage drop over the diode offcourse)

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1 minute ago, manikyath said:

diode ;) (account for voltage drop over the diode offcourse)

But then there is the voltage/temp drift on the diode, etc... Did think about it though. I also wonder what would happen if I used the 4 wire voltage sensing and put the sense wires after the diode

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1 minute ago, iamdarkyoshi said:

But then there is the voltage/temp drift on the diode, etc... Did think about it though. I also wonder what would happen if I used the 4 wire voltage sensing and put the sense wires after the diode

i've been thinking over a propper way of charging lithium built from discrete components (so no generic 8-pin ICs, no microcontrollers)

 

my concept is fairly simple to explain, but above my head to execute:

- constant current source, the LM78 series will be perfectly fit for this (these can actually be set up as a constant current source)

- diode

- battery socket

- a cricuit to sense the 4.2 volt treshold, would probably be something with a zener diode, and a current sensing "something" that turns off the power input the moment the cell is ready.

- bonus points for a "ding" sound when the battery is ready.

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2 hours ago, iamdarkyoshi said:

Julian has been using them for a long time without issues. I guess if it detonates, I get to watch fireworks. My current way of charging lithium can be seen as @The Cool n00B's profile banner thing. Which came from here:

 

I heard my name?

My rig: Intel Core i7-8700K OC 4.8 | NZXT Kraken X62 | ASUS Z370-F | 16 GB Trident Z RGB 3000 (2x8) | EVGA 1070 SC | EVGA SuperNova NEX650G1 | NZXT H700 | Samsung 250GB 850-EVO | 2x 2TB Seagate Barracuda HDDs 

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2 hours ago, iamdarkyoshi said:

I have always wondered about directly charging them off of my bench supply (which does CC and CV, counts mAH, and can be set to shut off after a certain mAH)

 

But I don't want to risk backfeeding into the supply...

I always use my bench supply to charge lithium cells, just set the voltage limit to 4.15 and the current limit to what the cell specifies. Then it will start in constant current, and switch over to constant voltage when the current drops. There is an article over on battery university that goes more in depth.

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Jesus you guys. Whenever you charge Lithium polymer or Lithium Ion you should always have a balancing lead on them otherwise they can charge unevenly and blow up or make them last way shorter.

This is what I use

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ƆԀ S₱▓Ɇ▓cs: i7 6ʇɥפᴉƎ00K (4.4ghz), Asus DeLuxe X99A II, GT҉X҉1҉0҉8҉0 Zotac Amp ExTrꍟꎭe),Si6F4Gb D???????r PlatinUm, EVGA G2 Sǝʌǝᘉ5ᙣᙍᖇᓎᙎᗅᖶt, Phanteks Enthoo Primo, 3TB WD Black, 500gb 850 Evo, H100iGeeTeeX, Windows 10, K70 R̸̢̡̭͍͕̱̭̟̩̀̀̃́̃͒̈́̈́͑̑́̆͘͜ͅG̶̦̬͊́B̸͈̝̖͗̈́, G502, HyperX Cloud 2s, Asus MX34. פN∩SW∀S 960 EVO

Just keeping this here as a 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  • 2 weeks later...

Haha, you can't stop @iamdarkyoshi, can you? One day you will finally set your house on fire. But until then I like your projects. Just make sure you have a bucket with sand at hand when the things get out of controll.

 

And yes, the colors are funny.

Mineral oil and 40 kg aluminium heat sinks are a perfect combination: 73 cores and a Titan X, Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Oil

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1 hour ago, Stefan1024 said:

Haha, you can't stop @iamdarkyoshi, can you? One day you will finally set your house on fire. But until then I like your projects. Just make sure you have a bucket with sand at hand when the things get out of controll.

 

And yes, the colors are funny.

Oh I have had close calls before xD

 

We do have a fire extinguisher...

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On 6/18/2016 at 8:49 AM, iamdarkyoshi said:

Julian has been using them for a long time without issues. I guess if it detonates, I get to watch fireworks. My current way of charging lithium can be seen as @The Cool n00B's profile banner thing. Which came from here:

 

Awww.. I was expecting exploding power banks at the end...

 

That's a nice way to charge batteries that aren't already connected in series. Wouldn't work for battery packs as it would just short out the cells except for the last one to ground lol

The Internet is invented by cats. Why? Why else would it have so much cat videos?

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8 hours ago, Huntsman said:

Awww.. I was expecting exploding power banks at the end...

 

That's a nice way to charge batteries that aren't already connected in series. Wouldn't work for battery packs as it would just short out the cells except for the last one to ground lol

Yeah. I generally take the laptop packs apart when I get them. Completely. I processed 15 laptop batteries in about half an hour the other day. And by processed, I mean took apart. Cell testing takes over two hours per cell. So.... yeah......

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Just use a MCP73811 or MCP73812 for each battery, they charge at up to 500mA (configurable on MCP73812) and they cost about 0.5$ each and need only a bunch of ceramic capacitors and resistors to complete the circuit.

If you need higher current and temperature monitoring, for about 0.85$ you can get MCP73833 .. 1.1A max, you can use a 10kOhm NTC to monitor temperature and stop charging if too much, has status leds if you want to implement, super easy.

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1 hour ago, mariushm said:

Just use a MCP73811 or MCP73812 for each battery, they charge at up to 500mA (configurable on MCP73812) and they cost about 0.5$ each and need only a bunch of ceramic capacitors and resistors to complete the circuit.

If you need higher current and temperature monitoring, for about 0.85$ you can get MCP73833 .. 1.1A max, you can use a 10kOhm NTC to monitor temperature and stop charging if too much, has status leds if you want to implement, super easy.

The ones I bought can do temp monitoring and they cost 3 bucks for ten. I just need to do a slight PCB mod for the NTC.

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Yeah, but they're ebay specials, you can't know for sure if they're quality chips (maybe a group of ebay sellers bought a roll of 5-10k chips for 15-20 cents each, who knows) or factory rejects (due various reasons, could be failing when overheated or under some particular conditions that will bite you in the ass some day when you least expect it)

The chips I linked to are by a genuine semiconductor company with great reputation (Microchip) and sold by an authorized distributor, so you know they're genuine parts, tested and guaranteed to work right. 

 

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4 hours ago, mariushm said:

Yeah, but they're ebay specials, you can't know for sure if they're quality chips (maybe a group of ebay sellers bought a roll of 5-10k chips for 15-20 cents each, who knows) or factory rejects (due various reasons, could be failing when overheated or under some particular conditions that will bite you in the ass some day when you least expect it)

The chips I linked to are by a genuine semiconductor company with great reputation (Microchip) and sold by an authorized distributor, so you know they're genuine parts, tested and guaranteed to work right. 

 

I will test each one with various things to make sure they work properly, or I will email the seller complaining that some of them don't work right (and likely get them for free like I do with half of the crap I order)

 

I know there are safer and more reliable options, but to be completely honest, most of these cells have totally reached EOL anyway that I really can't justify spending much more.

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No images for now, but I got the boards delivered and they work nicely. I have been able to desolder the micro USB jacks with my hot air gun, and I have also tried desoldering the chip from one of them to cut the pin 1 track (which is connected to ground, under the chip) and I have managed to get a temp sensor working with an NTC from 5v to pin 1, and a 20k resistor from pin 1 to ground. I would estimate the temp cutoff to be around 30-40 degrees.

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