Best High-End recommendations (help)

[CTR640]

1 minute ago, Riziko said:

200$ if I can find one, I'm in EU, so the only way is to get them I think through them directly 

So for you €239 too?

[Riziko]

1 minute ago, CTR640 said:

So for you €239 too?

yap

[CTR640]

1 minute ago, Riziko said:

yap

@rice guru can tell if good or nah. I'm just a cheapskate for getting the E10K for €67.

[HumdrumPenguin]

1 hour ago, Riziko said:

Is there one amp that you would recommend over the others, to add a bit bass to the beyerdynamics?

is it justifiable to spend 500$ on an amp if the ones you recommended for 100 to 200$ are gonna do just fine 

 

+I was looking at this amp but I have no idea if this is good https://jdslabs.com/shop/?category=featured   HardwareCanucs did a video on them

I have the Asgard 3, purchased direct from Schiit's website. It is a little monster. The only drawback for me is the lack of balanced ins and outs. Assuming you couldn't care less for balanced, it's the one I'd recommend from the bunch. Unless you are and audio geek and have some serious money to burn, I'd stick to the Asgard for good. Btw, the Asgard 3 can be bought with a 4490 module from AKM or Schiit's own multibit architecture module. I'd skip on both. For less you get more (once you are ready to get a dac).

[Riziko]

2 hours ago, HumdrumPenguin said:

I have the Asgard 3, purchased direct from Schiit's website. It is a little monster. The only drawback for me is the lack of balanced ins and outs. Assuming you couldn't care less for balanced, it's the one I'd recommend from the bunch. Unless you are and audio geek and have some serious money to burn, I'd stick to the Asgard for good. Btw, the Asgard 3 can be bought with a 4490 module from AKM or Schiit's own multibit architecture module. I'd skip on both. For less you get more (once you are ready to get a dac).

what is the dac for lol

 

[Derkoli]

Just now, Riziko said:

what is the dac for lol

 

Some people just want a one box solution, audio gear can get complex quickly lol. I have 10's of components for 2 channel listening and it can be annoying.

[Riziko]

1 hour ago, Derkoli said:

Some people just want a one box solution, audio gear can get complex quickly lol. I have 10's of components for 2 channel listening and it can be annoying.

But what are the benefits of having that? Does the audio get that much better?

[Derkoli]

2 minutes ago, Riziko said:

But what are the benefits of having that? Does the audio get that much better?

DAC's can help, but they can't help much if the amplifier and headphones or speakers cant show off the difference.

 

 

In your case, I would try everything with your onboard audio first, then get a DAC if you want one.

[rice guru]

Ignore misread

[rice guru]

5 hours ago, Riziko said:

200$ if I can find one, I'm in EU, so the only way is to get them I think through them directly 

Schiit has a Eu store if you are interested in their gear

[rice guru]

5 hours ago, Riziko said:

So you guys would say that the DT1990 Pro paired with Schiit Asgard 3 would be a perfect combo?

It's would be a pretty damn decent combo. You can spend more or less on something cheaper like a $100 amp. Or your onboard it's all up to you. If your that careful/hesitant I would do what @Derkoli suggested.

[HumdrumPenguin]

2 hours ago, Riziko said:

what is the dac for lol

 

DAC stands for Digital to Analog Converter. Everything that produces audio has an internal DAC. Your TV, your phone, your old Walkman, everything. DACs translate binary code into wave signals that your brain interpret as sound. If the conversion happens in the confinements of a noisy environment, like the internals of your computer, chances are that if the audio section on your motherboard is not well shielded, you'll get buzz noise. Therefore, bringing the audio conversion outside of your PC will avoid this kind of problems. Have you ever heard buzz from the frontal audio connector on a PC? That's because the audio was converted on the back of your motherboard, and the analog signal was brought by a cable through the internals of your PC to the frontal connector. Even if you shielded the shit out of the cable, it would degrade the sound anyways. But now that I think of it, a balanced interconnect would work. Ha, go figure. There are a few other 100 bucks DACs that will make your day after you have all the other components figured out first. DACs do change the aspect of the sound, specially if they use a different topology, like R2Rs, but your other gear needs to produce a clean enough signal for you to notice the differences.

 

By the way, I've mentioned that the Asgard 3 would be my recommendation, but if you were not really tight on a budget, I'd go for the Drop THX 789. I really like it. The SMSL SP200 is supposed to deliver the same sound, but there have been way too many reports of problems with this amp for me to recommend it.

 

PS.: I don't like the sound of Beyers, they are too trebbly for me.

Edited February 12, 2020 by HumdrumPenguin

[Riziko]

18 hours ago, HumdrumPenguin said:

DAC stands for Digital to Analog Converter. Everything that produces audio has an internal DAC. Your TV, your phone, your old Walkman, everything. DACs translate binary code into wave signals that your brain interpret as sound. If the conversion happens in the confinements of a noisy environment, like the internals of your computer, chances are that if the audio section on your motherboard is not well shielded, you'll get buzz noise. Therefore, bringing the audio conversion outside of your PC will avoid this kind of problems. Have you ever heard buzz from the frontal audio connector on a PC? That's because the audio was converted on the back of your motherboard, and the analog signal was brought by a cable through the internals of your PC to the frontal connector. Even if you shielded the shit out of the cable, it would degrade the sound anyways. But now that I think of it, a balanced interconnect would work. Ha, go figure. There are a few other 100 bucks DACs that will make your day after you have all the other components figured out first. DACs do change the aspect of the sound, specially if they use a different topology, like R2Rs, but your other gear needs to produce a clean enough signal for you to notice the differences.

 

By the way, I've mentioned that the Asgard 3 would be my recommendation, but if you were not really tight on a budget, I'd go for the Drop THX 789. I really like it. The SMSL SP200 is supposed to deliver the same sound, but there have been way too many reports of problems with this amp for me to recommend it.

 

PS.: I don't like the sound of Beyers, they are too trebbly for me.

I really want that amp, but 400$ is a lot of money, plus it says it's a "Linear Amp" and I need something that is really strong for gaming and then everything else. Really my question is the whole Linear thing, does that mean that I won't get much Bass?

[HumdrumPenguin]

3 hours ago, Riziko said:

I really want that amp, but 400$ is a lot of money, plus it says it's a "Linear Amp" and I need something that is really strong for gaming and then everything else. Really my question is the whole Linear thing, does that mean that I won't get much Bass?

Once more, all amps I have suggested will do the job. It's hard talking value when audio gear is concerned.

 

Linear amplifiers spit out exactly what they eat, just amplified. In easy terms, whatever signal is coming from your source and feeding the linear amp will be exactly what you'll hear without any coloration, times the gain selected + knob position on the volume pot. If your music sends "this much bass into this specific frequency spot", that's what you get. No less, no more.

[Riziko]

On 2/12/2020 at 11:44 PM, HumdrumPenguin said:

Once more, all amps I have suggested will do the job. It's hard talking value when audio gear is concerned.

 

Linear amplifiers spit out exactly what they eat, just amplified. In easy terms, whatever signal is coming from your source and feeding the linear amp will be exactly what you'll hear without any coloration, times the gain selected + knob position on the volume pot. If your music sends "this much bass into this specific frequency spot", that's what you get. No less, no more.

Oh I see, now I understand, thank you so much dude, I appreciate the help