ic diamond 24 vs thermal grizzly kryonaut

[Bajantechnician]

Quick question?

Which one is better? Ive got a tube of MX-4, but its been sitting for 4 years and i dont wanna reuse it lol.

Cheers!

[TrigrH]

kryo, though if ur in no rush hold out for a review of the new notcua  NT-H2 paste.

[Bajantechnician]

5 minutes ago, TrigrH said:

kryo, though if ur in no rush hold out for a review of the new notcua  NT-H2 paste.

Is there a reason why? better Conductivity?

 

When does it come out? Waiting for stuff to arrive mid-next week

[TrigrH]

4 minutes ago, Bajantechnician said:

Is there a reason why? better Conductivity?

 

When does it come out? Waiting for stuff to arrive mid-next week

Yeah it performs better and doesn't cure.

 

Quote

All of these are set to hit Amazon channels within the next few days, while the stock is set to filter through to partners and retailers shortly.

 

[Bajantechnician]

4 minutes ago, TrigrH said:

Yeah it performs better and doesn't cure.

 

 

Ahh, coolio. For the longest time, i thought that IC 24 was the best of the best.

 

I should be able to wait a couple days for the reviews.

 

I havent bene able to find online, but kryro is non-conductive and non-corossive right? Ill be putting it on a nickel gpu/cpu block.

[TrigrH]

1 minute ago, Bajantechnician said:

I havent bene able to find online, but kryro is non-conductive and non-corossive right? Ill be putting it on a nickel gpu/cpu block.

yes

[Bajantechnician]

2 minutes ago, TrigrH said:

yes

Cool.

Cheers man

[TrigrH]

13 hours ago, Bajantechnician said:

Cool.

Cheers man

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NT-H2-3-5g-Pro-Grade-Compound/dp/B07MXFTNZY?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_2530014011

[Bajantechnician]

8 hours ago, TrigrH said:

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NT-H2-3-5g-Pro-Grade-Compound/dp/B07MXFTNZY?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_2530014011

OOo, have reviews come out yet?

Havent seen any as of yet

[TrigrH]

2 hours ago, Bajantechnician said:

OOo, have reviews come out yet?

Havent seen any as of yet

nope

 

[bowrilla]

You should expect about 0.5°C difference between the Kryonaut and the NT-HT2. There are no official reviews out there but there's a huge comparison of 84 different TIMs including the Kryonaut and the HT2 HT1. Noctua published their own comparison results between HT1 and HT2. At Tom's Hardware they measured a difference of ~1°C between the Kryonaut and the HT1. On desktop chips the difference seems to be around 0.5°C and up to 2°C on HEDT high power chips with huge surfaces, which should be irrelevant for 9/10 builders.So basically: the difference is probably ~0.5°C so it's a matter of preference and price. 5 years of standing time is a nice feature, but how many people leave their system assembled for 5 years not changing anything? And who's really storing an opened tube of TIM for 3 years to use it again? You'll probably get a fresh 3g tube for 10-15 bucks.

 

Will it make any noticeable difference? No, not really. 0.5°C is pretty much within the margin of error.

 

Noctua's comparison

Tom's Hardware review from 2017

 

Edit: fixed a stupid error, the comparison of course features the HT1 and not the new HT2.

[Bajantechnician]

5 hours ago, TrigrH said:

nope

 

darn

2 hours ago, bowrilla said:

You should expect about 0.5°C difference between the Kryonaut and the NT-HT2. There are no official reviews out there but there's a huge comparison of 84 different TIMs including the Kryonaut and the HT2. Noctua published their own comparison results between HT1 and HT2. At Tom's Hardware they measured a difference of ~1°C between the Kryonaut and the HT1. On desktop chips the difference seems to be around 0.5°C and up to 2°C on HEDT high power chips with huge surfaces, which should be irrelevant for 9/10 builders.So basically: the difference is probably ~0.5°C so it's a matter of preference and price. 5 years of standing time is a nice feature, but how many people leave their system assembled for 5 years not changing anything? And who's really storing an opened tube of TIM for 3 years to use it again? You'll probably get a fresh 3g tube for 10-15 bucks.

 

Will it make any noticeable difference? No, not really. 0.5°C is pretty much within the margin of error.

 

Noctua's comparison

Tom's Hardware review from 2017

Ooo, gotcha.

 

Thanks for that info  I bought a tube of MX-4 4 years ago. Its been stored inside my desk but I don't wanna reuse it after all these years, especially since I'll be hardline tubing my new pc and it'll be a hassle to repaste it.

[bowrilla]

11 minutes ago, Bajantechnician said:

darn

Ooo, gotcha.

 

Thanks for that info  I bought a tube of MX-4 4 years ago. Its been stored inside my desk but I don't wanna reuse it after all these years, especially since I'll be hardline tubing my new pc and it'll be a hassle to repaste it.

Well, since you'll be facing disassembling your system like 1-2 times a year. Go with the Kryonaut. You'll gain nothing from the longer standing time of the HT2. Ultimately it's pretty much irrelevant though as long as you're using a good TIM. The differences of good TIMs are within 1-1.5°C. Keeping the air filters dust free has a bigger impact.

[Bajantechnician]

17 minutes ago, bowrilla said:

Well, since you'll be facing disassembling your system like 1-2 times a year. Go with the Kryonaut. You'll gain nothing from the longer standing time of the HT2. Ultimately it's pretty much irrelevant though as long as you're using a good TIM. The differences of good TIMs are within 1-1.5°C. Keeping the air filters dust free has a bigger impact.

I see. yeah, I've ordered some filters that I'll going to custom mod into my case. Would I get away with disassembly once a year if its clear coolant? I'm planning on using clear since I'm not a fan of the pastels.

[bowrilla]

Just now, Bajantechnician said:

I see. yeah, I've ordered some filters that I'll going to custom mod into my case. Would I get away with disassembly once a year if its clear coolant? I'm planning on using clear since I'm not a fan of the pastels.

Well, once a year is considered as the longest maintenance interval. As long as you loop is prepped well and kept clean, a good clear coolant should have no bigger issues with that amount of time. You may experience some discolourations over time though if you use a coloured coolant - depends on the material and the specific coolant, it's hard to predict.

 

And don't forget your drain port and ideally a well placed fill and vent port. 

[Bajantechnician]

20 minutes ago, bowrilla said:

Well, once a year is considered as the longest maintenance interval. As long as you loop is prepped well and kept clean, a good clear coolant should have no bigger issues with that amount of time. You may experience some discolourations over time though if you use a coloured coolant - depends on the material and the specific coolant, it's hard to predict.

 

And don't forget your drain port and ideally a well placed fill and vent port. 

Ooo, gotcha. Ill be using the EK premixed clear fluid. 

 

Drains at the very bottom and fill can be anywhere right?

 

Heres the log if you wanna follow it Ill be updating it sometime this week.

 

[bowrilla]

4 hours ago, Bajantechnician said:

 

Drains at the very bottom and fill can be anywhere right?

Yes and not really. The drain port should be at the very bottom and you want to fill at the very top. You can skip the fill port if your reservoir is at the top. If you try to fill anywhere else than at the top it means there will be an airpocket at higher points in your loop. If your reservoir is at the top, you can just fill it up this way and bleed the system easily. Proper bleeding is essential for a loop, air pockets in waterblocks or radiators can dramatically reduce cooling performance.

[Bajantechnician]

1 hour ago, bowrilla said:

Yes and not really. The drain port should be at the very bottom and you want to fill at the very top. You can skip the fill port if your reservoir is at the top. If you try to fill anywhere else than at the top it means there will be an airpocket at higher points in your loop. If your reservoir is at the top, you can just fill it up this way and bleed the system easily. Proper bleeding is essential for a loop, air pockets in waterblocks or radiators can dramatically reduce cooling performance.

Darn, my res is at the very bottom, just because of how the case is designed. 
Itll be a pain to drain the air at the top of the loop

[bowrilla]

10 minutes ago, Bajantechnician said:

Darn, my res is at the very bottom, just because of how the case is designed. 
Itll be a pain to drain the air at the top of the loop

Well, you ca get rid of some air by tilting your rig but your pump may not run dry or you will risk damaging it. I'd suggest adding a t-fitting at the top with a ball valve and a plug. This way bleeding will be easier. In my rig the difference is only 3-4cm and getting the air bubble out of it takes a serious amount of shaking and tilting and I have soft tubing until the gpu block is ready for the router.

[Mehmy]

7 hours ago, Bajantechnician said:

Darn, my res is at the very bottom, just because of how the case is designed. 
Itll be a pain to drain the air at the top of the loop

Could lay your system on its side, dismount the res, and manually lift it above the system if you have long enough tube runs? 

[Bajantechnician]

7 hours ago, bowrilla said:

Well, you ca get rid of some air by tilting your rig but your pump may not run dry or you will risk damaging it. I'd suggest adding a t-fitting at the top with a ball valve and a plug. This way bleeding will be easier. In my rig the difference is only 3-4cm and getting the air bubble out of it takes a serious amount of shaking and tilting and I have soft tubing until the gpu block is ready for the router.

Hmmm, that is a good idea. Now I just need to find somewhere to hide the fitting.

23 minutes ago, Mehmy said:

Could lay your system on its side, dismount the res, and manually lift it above the system if you have long enough tube runs? 

I’ll be hardlineing

[Mehmy]

3 hours ago, Bajantechnician said:

 

I’ll be hardlineing

Ah, sorry, missed that part. Yeah, you'll have to tilt the pc around then while the pump is running, and hope for the best

[Bajantechnician]

4 hours ago, Mehmy said:

Ah, sorry, missed that part. Yeah, you'll have to tilt the pc around then while the pump is running, and hope for the best

Darn! Time to be a lumberjack lmao. Thanks a bunch!

[bowrilla]

1 hour ago, Bajantechnician said:

Darn! Time to be a lumberjack lmao. Thanks a bunch!

Or just implement a fill and bleed port at the top.