KarsonC

as long as the Key is the key for that machine you are fine, even with OEM's, the only time you might need a new key is if you replace the motherboard, infact if it' Windows 8 or newer the key is stored in the mobo bios and you won't even be prompted to type it during install.

nothing would stop you from not keeping the HDD after cloning to the SSD or Installing clean Windows on the SSD, provided you have space for both drives in the machine, I did this for 2 years until my HDD went out on me a few weeks ago, by default windows will save everything to the drive Windows is on (the C drive which will be the SSD once you get Windows on it), if you want to keep the HDD for data storage (which is what I did) you can "point" the My Documents, Music and other folders to a place on the HDD, Linus has a video on how to do this. Cloning the HDD to an SSD or doing a clean Windows install on the SSD WON'T DO ANYTHING to the data that is ON the HDD, it will still be there when you are done, if you want to be paranoid (like I do when I do clean installs) you could simply unplug the HDD while you are doing the clean install on the SSD then when you are done plug the HDD back in.

well the Evo comes WITH a disk, on that disk are 2 programs, one is the Samsung Magician Software, the other is the software for cloning the old drive to the new SSD, I've used it before, but I would personally suggest REINSTALLING WINDOWS and your programs on the new drive then just copying the other files over, you get better performance this way in my personal experience.

The only time I read them is when I'm getting an online service (i.e. web hosting, server, VPS, etc...) or if I'm physically signing my name on something (i.e. mortgage, lease, loan, etc...).

I should have done that with g2a. Turns out that g2a shield costs $2 per month if you cancel it one or more times (from $1 per month).
 

Of course!

But really, I basically never read them. Only time I do read through them properly is when I'm spending a lot of money on something. 

There is a very real chance I have signed away my soul by now.

Nah, probably a dozen companies out there that have claim to owning my soul at this point >_>''''
 
only time I read is when it's $$ subscription based. Even then, I only read the parts on charges, fees, and refunds.

If it's something I'm unfamiliar with or seems kinda sketchy, then I'll usually at least skim through it, otherwise who the hell reads them anyways lol

After reading more passages and advices from my friends, I have a conclusion on what should I go for(roughly). A basic AC router like C7 will mostly sufficient to what I ask for, as the signal won't be passing through walls even with high gain antennas, a power line network is a bonus.

When I finished the latest CES 2015 videos, I saw this 

When I finished the latest CES 2015 videos, I saw this 

When I finished the latest CES 2015 videos, I saw this 

When I finished the latest CES 2015 videos, I saw this 

When I finished the latest CES 2015 videos, I saw this 

I had a thumb drive die on me the exact same way. 8GB 3.0 Never worked again....

No, I don't mean the standard mode. It's actually under the "color" section in the OSD menu. Then you go to "Color Temp" and then you should see the option labeled "User Mode" and that should allow you to adjust the individual RGB colours during calibration.
Oh! I forgot about that, my bad. Well, yeah, you may want to borrow another that as an ambient light colour temperature adjustment because that will effect how accurate the colours appear. I hope that helps.

The dealer kindly replaced a new one for me, the new one is better, but a much higher pitch.
I think I can deal with it by sticking some acoustic materials on my case side panels will get rid of it.
 
 
* The card only whine noticeable during Furmarks like 100% heavy loading application, in BF4 it is not noticeable! :wub:

Project: Snowflake
 

 
     So this was my first build log on linustechtips.com or any other place, but its not my first pc build.  But i will say this pc is most likely the nicest one that i've built.  The first couple pictures are how it started out and the rest will be the tare down then the mods, and finally, putting it back together.
 
    Some of you may have seen this before but when the linustec forums where changed to the new design my old post vanished somewhere so i was asked to repost it.
 
    Vid:    So this video pretty much just shows off the aurora before it lost its pearl effect.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qvOYjubvm5A
 
 
    Parts List:
Case: NZXT Switch 810
CPU: Intel 3770k
CPU Block: EK Supremacy CSD (Copper / Plexi)
Mobo: MSI Z77 MPower
GPU: (2) EVGA Nvidia 680 Superclocked
GPU Block: (2) EK Supremacy CSD (Copper / Plexi)
RAM: GSkill Sniper 1866/CL9 (4x4g)
SSD: OCZ Solid 3, 120g
HDD: (2) Samsung Spinpoint F3 1tb
PSU: Corsair AX1200
PSU Sleeving: Pre-sleeved white kit from corsair.
Fan: (5) Corsair SP120 quiets / (1) Corsair AF140 Quiet
Rad: (2) Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 120x3
Pump: Alphacool D5
Pump Top: EK D5 CSD (Plexi)
Elbows: Bitspower White 90 and 45 degree's
Compression Fittings: White Monsoon free Center
Tube: White Permochill LRT
Sata Cables: Alchemy
USB cabel extensions: Alchemy
LED's: Random $5 lets with tails from frozencpu and sleeved with bitspower i think.
 
     So these first couple of pictures are old and kinda huge, and i don't wanna re size them and re upload them, so... here are a couple.
 

^Old Build
 

^Old Build
 
So on to this Build..
 

^Parts
 
 

^GPU boxes n stuff
 

^New GPU and thermal
 

^Block, GPU, Backplate
 

^HSF removal
 

^Backplate on
 

^Block on
 

^LED's sleeved
 

^Pump back
 

^Pump top
 

^Alchemy sata cables
 

^Cleaning the loop
 

^Draining
 

^Gunky tube
 

^Still flushing
 

^New Rads
 

^Flushing the new rads
 

^Mmmmmm
 

^No more heatsink covers!
 

^No more heatsinks
 

^So... due to some poor planing and or measuring on my part the top rad was a smijin too big
 

^Problem solved!
 

^SB in primer
 

^NB in primer
 

^Back on
 

^Shiny
 
 

^Another Shiny
 

^PSU
 

^Psu got a lil paint too, thought the logo looked better black so i just did a lil white ring around it.
 

^Support cut out to run tube better.
 

^Cutting Plexi
 

^PSU stand holes
 

^Test fit
 

^More test fitting
 

^Template
 

^Ready to start on the mobo plate
 

^Holes... so many holes.. cool idea, cool looking, such a pain in the ass to do.. then ya have to run the wires..
 

^Making sure the holes line up
 

^Mobo on and starting to run the wires through the holes.
 

^PSU in, running the wires to it.
 

^Fitting the rez
 

^HDD's and SSD Mounting
 

^Running the tube
 

^Filling the res with aurora supernova
 

^80-ish drops of Ocean Blue Dye from Mayhems
 

^No more paper towles
 

^Working on the lighting
 

^Aurora fading out due to too many elbows n such, PC is on.
Oh PSU cover is on now too.
 

^Fans and tube along the side
 

^Fan closeup
 
 

^Meshing used for intake filter on the top.
 

^Front intake filter
 

^Front fans, the upper mount is a lil ugly but i was pretty tired of building this at this point so i just said hell with it.
 

^Back panel 
 
 

^New Liquid, Mayhems Pastel Blue Berry, along with the lighting finished.
 
 

^Side panel off
 
 
So thats it thanks for checkin out my build guys, hope ya like it and gave you an idea or two to try on your build.

reason being is, "Have you ever seen a person take serious photos with an iPad and not look dumb"

Socket 2011 definitely gets better performance as shown in the benchmarks, but isn't necessary especially for light editors, when you factor in the cost of the motherboard etc, you can be spending money unnecessarily, but should definitely be considered.Rendering times are nice, but what's more important is smooth playback and all the small prerenders you will go through and to be honest a 3770k will actually cope just fine on typical edits. The OP mentioned his usage and thought there was no need to over inflate the costs.
Gaming cards compete quite heavily with the low/mid end workstation cards. If you are going to get a workstation card, best to go all out on one and that can cost 1000's again not what the OP is after IMO.
Not disagreeing at all with you, you are factually right, just think it's important to consider the costs to someone who wants professional looking video, but at the end of the day not doing it professionally as in day in/day out where rendering times could actually be important.
Lot's of RAM is definitely a must for anyone 16gb is what I would consider a min, with AE PP and PS working simultaneously it will eat the majority of that.