minibois

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The last stable release of Speccy is from close to 4 year ago, so I would have to assume it has not been updated to read out the more modern graphics cards.
I'd recommend using a program like HWInfo64, which is more feature-rich than Speccy too. That should be able to properly show you your GPU stats (including VRAM)

Your PC uses power and basically all that power is converted into heat which is expelled into the room, which means a better cooler in the PC wouldn't the situation any better.
And also 79F (26C) is not something your PC will be bothered by. Usually the temperature of components in reviews is measured by the difference in temperature between the part and the room, so if your room is warmer the PC just gets warmer.
 
The only way I foresee you can make this situation better is by removing the PC from the room. Sometimes this is done 'crudely', by just putting it in a room on the other side of the wall from your room and then just running the cables through that wall, or it is done through a more complicated setup involving a dock (like a thunderbolt dock, which Linus uses, detailed somewhat in his personal rig update 2015 series of videos, mostly in part 5: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NshXgisNly4). For various reasons, the dock implementation is much more complicated.
 
So in short, really the only way to remove heat from the room, is by removing its source. You can't feasible move your laptop out of your way and the other mentioned devices (PiHole, router, NUC) aren't that power hungry (AKA warm running), so your best bet is to move the PC some place else.
 

The last stable release of Speccy is from close to 4 year ago, so I would have to assume it has not been updated to read out the more modern graphics cards.
I'd recommend using a program like HWInfo64, which is more feature-rich than Speccy too. That should be able to properly show you your GPU stats (including VRAM)

Your PC uses power and basically all that power is converted into heat which is expelled into the room, which means a better cooler in the PC wouldn't the situation any better.
And also 79F (26C) is not something your PC will be bothered by. Usually the temperature of components in reviews is measured by the difference in temperature between the part and the room, so if your room is warmer the PC just gets warmer.
 
The only way I foresee you can make this situation better is by removing the PC from the room. Sometimes this is done 'crudely', by just putting it in a room on the other side of the wall from your room and then just running the cables through that wall, or it is done through a more complicated setup involving a dock (like a thunderbolt dock, which Linus uses, detailed somewhat in his personal rig update 2015 series of videos, mostly in part 5: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NshXgisNly4). For various reasons, the dock implementation is much more complicated.
 
So in short, really the only way to remove heat from the room, is by removing its source. You can't feasible move your laptop out of your way and the other mentioned devices (PiHole, router, NUC) aren't that power hungry (AKA warm running), so your best bet is to move the PC some place else.
 

A macropad which uses QMK/VIA is probably the easiest option.
You do need to have QMK/VIA on one PC, to configure the macropad; but after that it works like any normal keyboard, just with the keybinds you want.
 
There is a plethora of options, but this one Atomic Shrimp reviewed looks pretty good:
 

They're sorta adhesive on their own, they stick to the VRAM chips/heatsinks fine. Shouldn't need any additional adhesive. 

-- Moved to Linux, macOS and Everything Not-Windows --

The issue is more with 'outside causes' of vibrations, i.e. a washing machine touching the desk or moving the computer around.
Drives meant for a NAS or server generally have a rating for how many drives they can be in the same case (enclosure) with.
For example, Ironwolf drives are marketed for enclosures up to 8 drives, while Ironwolf Pro drives however are rated for up to 24 drives in a single enclosure.

The issue is more with 'outside causes' of vibrations, i.e. a washing machine touching the desk or moving the computer around.
Drives meant for a NAS or server generally have a rating for how many drives they can be in the same case (enclosure) with.
For example, Ironwolf drives are marketed for enclosures up to 8 drives, while Ironwolf Pro drives however are rated for up to 24 drives in a single enclosure.

Basically a refresh
AMD Radeon R9 270 Review: Replacing The Radeon HD 7800s | Tom's Hardware (tomshardware.com)

This product is giving me heavy Portal (2) vibes:

Try updating to a Studio driver (rather than a game driver).
I had some issues with Davinci Resolve a while ago and it turned out the latest game driver versions didn't work, while the studio driver did.
 
You can choose the Studio driver in Geforce Experience, or the Nvidia download page.

What graphics card are you using?

Dust/debris between layers of the display seems most likely to me.
A dead pixels would be a black square, a semi dead or stuck pixel would be a certain color, like red, green, blue or a combination of two of those.
 
A pixel consists of a red, green and blue LED, these are called the subpixels.. If you want black, all three subpixels are turned off, if you want white you turn all three subpixels on. Let's say the green in the pixels in broken, that means when it tries to turn on all three subpixels, only red and blue turn on; giving you a purple color (instead of the white color it should produce).
That is why I say this is dust/debris. A dead pixels would be - as you said - a square and not 'fuzzy', while a dead subpixel would give you something other than black.
 
Just to be sure the issue is not with your cable or device, try a different cable connected to a different computer/laptop, just to be sure.

None of the above, I usually say "Are-Kay-Us", because I read the name before I heard it spoken and at first thought the name was (partially) based on "arcane" (even though the name's origin doesn't always influence the pronunciation).
The canon pronunciation in English would be "Ar-Key-Us", because of the whole "otherwise it sounds like arse"-thing, although in the Arceus movie (the first time this Pokemon was mentioned by name in the anime) they did still pronounce it as "Ar-Sea-Us".

Dust/debris between layers of the display seems most likely to me.
A dead pixels would be a black square, a semi dead or stuck pixel would be a certain color, like red, green, blue or a combination of two of those.
 
A pixel consists of a red, green and blue LED, these are called the subpixels.. If you want black, all three subpixels are turned off, if you want white you turn all three subpixels on. Let's say the green in the pixels in broken, that means when it tries to turn on all three subpixels, only red and blue turn on; giving you a purple color (instead of the white color it should produce).
That is why I say this is dust/debris. A dead pixels would be - as you said - a square and not 'fuzzy', while a dead subpixel would give you something other than black.
 
Just to be sure the issue is not with your cable or device, try a different cable connected to a different computer/laptop, just to be sure.

Dust/debris between layers of the display seems most likely to me.
A dead pixels would be a black square, a semi dead or stuck pixel would be a certain color, like red, green, blue or a combination of two of those.
 
A pixel consists of a red, green and blue LED, these are called the subpixels.. If you want black, all three subpixels are turned off, if you want white you turn all three subpixels on. Let's say the green in the pixels in broken, that means when it tries to turn on all three subpixels, only red and blue turn on; giving you a purple color (instead of the white color it should produce).
That is why I say this is dust/debris. A dead pixels would be - as you said - a square and not 'fuzzy', while a dead subpixel would give you something other than black.
 
Just to be sure the issue is not with your cable or device, try a different cable connected to a different computer/laptop, just to be sure.

Dust/debris between layers of the display seems most likely to me.
A dead pixels would be a black square, a semi dead or stuck pixel would be a certain color, like red, green, blue or a combination of two of those.
 
A pixel consists of a red, green and blue LED, these are called the subpixels.. If you want black, all three subpixels are turned off, if you want white you turn all three subpixels on. Let's say the green in the pixels in broken, that means when it tries to turn on all three subpixels, only red and blue turn on; giving you a purple color (instead of the white color it should produce).
That is why I say this is dust/debris. A dead pixels would be - as you said - a square and not 'fuzzy', while a dead subpixel would give you something other than black.
 
Just to be sure the issue is not with your cable or device, try a different cable connected to a different computer/laptop, just to be sure.

Every digital era TV I have in UK will support 60 Hz. The 50/100 Hz references might just be in relation to the broadcast standard. I'd be surprised if any panel is made only to 50Hz and not 60Hz too, although there remains a possibility in cheaper/unknown models they don't put in support.

Currently looking at a TV that is displaying 60hz with no sweat.

Resistors are required in all USB Type C communication, not just in C to C cables.
In a C to C cable you just have a wire running from the source (PC, laptop, etc.) CC to sink (keyboard, camera, etc.) CC pins, which decides the orientation, as well as the speed and power levels. When you use a USB Type C to A cable, your cable needs to have a resistor on it and the sink device needs two resistors.
 
I'll reference information found in the USB Type C specification from the USB IF: https://www.usb.org/sites/default/files/USB Type-C Spec R2.0 - August 2019.pdf
Section 3.5.1 is the most relevant here, which describes how a USB 3.0 Type C to Type A cable should be made.
Note 2 goes over the required resistor in this cable:
Referring to the section 4.5.3.2.2, it shows two resistors (on CC1 and CC2) tied to GROUND are needed in the sink device (camera).
 
Furthermore, I think I need some more information on the USB Type C receptacle you're using in the USB camera. This needs to have those two resistors tied to GROUND on CC1 and CC2, but also needs some technology on the inside to detect if it should send USB 3.0 signals through the left or the right two data pairs.
While USB 2.0 pins can be connected together on the PCB (as shown below), USB 3.0 requires some extra technology on the sink device side (the camera), to decide if it should send signals through the left or right data pair.
 

This is what a USB Type C connector footprint looks like on a PCB. The red boxes show that the USB 2.0 data pair (D+ and D-) are connected together, so it doesn't matter if you plug in the cable upside-down or right-side up ('flipped' and 'un-flipped' respectively), because the USB 2.0 pins go to the right place regardless.
 
As we can see in the USB Type C receptacle and plug:

 
USB 2.0 should be connected, regardless of orientation (connector A7 and A6 either go to receptacle A6 and A7 or B6 and B7), but with USB 3.0 you're either going to use the left or right pair and the sink device (camera) needs to be able to switch the USB 3.0 data pairs from the left to the right side depending on how the CC pins are connected.
This is why it's also so weird why USB 2.0 only works when plugged in one way, because the cable connector should always connect to a D+/D- pair on the receptacle; whether it be the top or bottom two doesn't matter.
 
The only reason I can think of why it doesn't work is either:
- the receptacle in the camera only has the data pair at the top or bottom (instead of both top and bottom)
- GROUND is only connected when plugged in with one orientation, as it appears from the breakoutboard datasheet the GROUND connections aren't all connected together, but that should be easy to test with a multimeter
 
So in short:
- You need a 56 k Ohm resistor between CC and VBUS on the cable
- You need two 5.1 k Ohm resistors, between CC1 and GROUND & CC2 and GROUND
- You need to check if your breakoutboard GROUND connections are all connected together
- You need to check the receptacle in the camera if it has USB 2.0 on both the top and bottom as well as needing to check if it actually has the functionality needed to switch between the left/right USB 3.0 data pairs (depending on orientation)
 
The USB Type C specification is quite a bit more complex than previous USB standards, so there is a lot that goes into even just making a simple cable. 
I hope this post gave you some information on what to look into, to get your mod working.

The organization behind USB, is the USB IF (integrator forum). They have a host of different specifications listed, the one I have read into the most is the USB Type C specification linked earlier.
Here is their full library of datasheets: https://www.usb.org/documents?search=&items_per_page=All
You can filter the results based on USB technology (i.e. USB 2.0, 3.2, etc.) and this appears to be the most recent USB 3.2 specifitcation: https://www.usb.org/document-library/usb-32-specification-released-september-22-2017-and-ecns
While this file seems to be most relevant to USB 3.2 cables (excluding  Type C cables): https://www.usb.org/sites/default/files/CabConn_Legacy_3_1_Compliance_Rev_1_1.pdf
 
I tried looking in the documents for the requirement of TX/RX pairs being equal lengths, but I'll be honest a lot of the details in the above two documents goes a bit over my head 😅
Maybe they have mentioned those lengths in the documents, but I couldn't spot it.

-- Moved to Troubleshooting --
The forum bugs/issues sub-forum is specifically for bugs with the forum, while Troubleshooting is for issues you're facing with software/hardware/etc.
 
Ghosting happens when the display doesn't refresh fast enough to keep up with the content it needs to display.
Open the monitor menu by pressing the appropriate button on the monitor and look for a setting that changes the response time/display quality. Usually the response rate is worse when the monitor has to display a better looking image, so typically a monitor has some different modes that change the response rate and color image.
A 'gaming' mode often has better response time too.