Entropy.

I feel like you'll have a better option if you split the budget and spent half of it on making a completely different set up and room for these speakers rather than trying to put super expensive speakers in a space resricted space filled with other objects.

That's certainly a picture of Sonarworks. Are you trying to say he should get room correction software? The lack of elaboration might incline one to believe you aren't actually trying to help OP.

Fast decay as in how fast it's waterfall chart  (AKA spectral decay chart) decays down to nothing. This is indicative of how long the driver takes to stop moving after the signal stops.  Fast decaying drivers sound clearer, slow ones sound muddy.  The concept is applicable to any driver not just subs. This is what literally everyone I know means when they call a sub/speaker/driver "fast". I doubt your buddy is a gainfully employed sound engineer if he's not familiar with this concept. Maybe they just call it something else?

I'd personally nab a pair of PMC 6-2's, then feed them with an Apogee Symphony Desktop. Use any interconnects you fancy, and then a pair of good, sturdy monitor stands. It won't look sleek, but it'll sound gorgeous.

There are a lot of options outlined in that thread at your price point.  I went with 5" Mackie CR5BT's that produce great sound and very decent bass.  So much so I didn't think twice about kicking my 5.1 system to the curb.
 
I'd look at any 5"+ Powered Monitor.  7" may be too large, depending on your desk size.  You should be very happy under 200 euros, IMO.
 
 

Fair points with the layout, was just tryna throw ideas in case anything stuck haha 😄
 
also ty! I'm a budget audiophile lol I wish Linus would do more scrapyard wars

Probably lol. Like I said, I'm a bit batshit crazy. I'll keep demoing and narrowing down my budget if need be. Right now 10k to me seems to be generous enough that I'm not really constrained, and I can always cut down a bit if that turns to be too far into the realm of diminishing returns. 
Have very little space and that would be jank, right now behind my desk is the windowed portion, however with the heavy curtains It's ok. To the side of the room is kind of an open walkway just like a standard room, so having the desk back that much might be a little wonky, but It might work I suppose. Also would only be able to roll back a few feet in my chair in that position, so midfield would be dead if I did that. 

Nice setup though for $380, I wish I were that brave lol. 

I use the Koss KSC35 on construction sites. It's not bone conduction, but is open back allowing situational awareness

Objectivist hot take: the differences between the K5 Pro and the most transparent amplifiers on the market won't be audible to most people under normal listening conditions.
 
It has low enough output impedance to not appreciably change most headphones' frequency response (except for some outliers like balanced armature IEMs), has enough output power to not clip at reasonable listening levels with most headphones, has low enough distortion to not be readily audible with standard music, has low enough noise to not be audible with standard music on standard headphones at standard levels in a standard listening environment (though change any two of those factors and that could change).
 
The reason I recommend against the K5 is because some of the most transparent amplifiers on the market are available around the $100 mark nowadays. If you already have a K5, are happy with its feature set, and aren't using it in a way that would require better performance, there's not much reason to switch.
 
 
The effects of Balanced vs Single-Ended varies from amplifier to amplifier. For headphone amplifiers most of the time the relevant difference is the amount of power available.
 
If the balanced outputs are differentially driven (which they usually are) then their output is (generally) 6dB louder than the single-ended connectors. If the amplifier had limited voltage headroom to begin with (mostly applicable to portable/USB devices), this may result in increased performance overall. If they're not differentially driven (Topping A30Pro, for instance), the balanced connectors are just there for convenience/compatibility.
 
If the amplifier is differential all the way through, the signal to noise ratio on the balanced output will be 3dB better overall (but noise will be 3dB higher in absolute terms so it's not a straight win). If it is not (i.e. the opposite polarity signal is generated after the input stage), often the noise on the balanced output will be a bit higher.
 
On certain amplifiers with differential signalling the even-order distortion cancellation is significant, and for these amplifiers the balanced outputs are significantly better. On certain amplifiers the balanced output can have common mode noise cancellation, but this really only applies to poorly designed amplifiers. For applications other than headphone outputs this common mode rejection is useful for doing things like mitigating ground loops.
 
The noise benefits of balanced cables themselves are basically meaningless for headphones. It's hard to imagine a realistic scenario where a reasonable headphone with a reasonable cable could pick up audible interference (single-ended or balanced, the cable is much shorter than any audible wavelength and attached at both ends to a 0-impedance node!) while driving a headphone. EMI can cause issues in audio, but those scenarios are not applicable to headphone signals after they have already left the amplifier. I'm not an expert in this field though, so it's possible there may be some other effect I don't know about.
 
As far as balanced 2.5mm vs 4.4mm vs XLR goes, they're just different connectors. No difference in audio quality for normal use. Definite differences in durability and cost. Some high power applications (such as on headphone amplifiers that approach speaker levels of power) may require XLR because TRRS connectors temporarily short-circuit every time they're plugged in.
 
For most amplifiers, extra power is the only appreciable advantage of the balanced output over the single-ended one. There can be a number of other pros and cons, but they will vary from amplifier to amplifier. On the BTR5, I don't have access to the device, measurements, or the circuit. Based on how I'm guessing they implemented the circuit, the balanced outputs should have 6dB more power, 3dB higher noise (but 3dB better SNR at max output), and significantly decreased distortion (maybe some even-order cancellation, but likely more to do with increasing headroom with the limited voltage rails) compared to the single-ended.

Well I mean the 5900x is going to perform nearly all tasks more quickly, guess it depends on what you're doing though, and if the 9820x offers any essential features that the 5900x  doesn't have. Free is free though, in most cases I'd say go for it. 

Sound cards are basically more niche, crappy amp/dac units. They're poor value and are subject to greater interferance coming from your computer since they're actually located within your computer. I would just recommend not bothering with a sound card whatsoever. 

Dunno how much it is for them though, could be near or above MSRP, but I haven't checked. In comparison that might be pretty expensive, but I mean it is a better speaker. Higher-end components all-around, but for 50 euros the 1280ts should be fine, even if they're considering upgrading down the road. Most normal users should be satisfied by the sound coming out of the 1280ts, shrug.

They may very well be amazing for the price. I'm not agreeing/disagreeing with that. What I'm saying is most motherboards these days come with pretty decent onboard audio. if you are shopping for $100 speakers I'm guessing you're not a hardcore audiophile. Based on that I do not believe you will hear any benefit from a dedicated sound card. Why not just buy them, and they decide if you like the sound with the onboard audio. If you don't, then a dedicated card or stand-alone DAC can be the next route.
 
But, I virtually guarantee there will be no perceptible difference.
 
Why do you think they are not compatible? The product's own website says they are compatible with everything, including smartphones. They literally connect to anything with a headphone jack.

This is fantastic - thank you so much!

Well There's powered speakers that dont require an amplifier (because it's inbuilt), and there are unpowered, which do need an amp. There's a ton of options out there depending on what you're looking for, I'll list off some of my favorites (Assuming USD):
 
Powered speakers (self-contained, require no amp)
 
Adam t5-t8 series. High performance Basic black box, smaller sizes are more suited for closer use. Larger speakers will provide more bass, but if you have them too close to a wall It'll be bloated and won't be very well controlled. Pretty flat and neutral overall, t8v has more prominant bass and treble (V shape sound sig)
 
Klipsch the Fives (purchase from Costco for $500-$600). They have tons of connection options including HDMI arc, you can adjust sources on the fly easily. They're pretty flexible and can work backed up to a wall but they again like a little breathing room, and they're quite classy, with a real-wood verneer and nice colorways. Also more of a v shape, It'll be pretty agressive with the bass and treble.
 
Various edifier speakers ($100-$700). Most edifiers at this pricerange are quite solid, they're pretty classy, they perform pretty well, they're pretty flexible.
 
Moving on to unpowered speakers (will require an amp, which I'll discuss later):
 
Kef q150s (On sale for $350). Flexible about placement and where you sit relative to it while listening, It's not the prettiest or best-built speaker in the world, but [imo] damn, does it sound good. Doesn't need much space behind it but it'll reward you in spades if you decide to play around with it to place it right. Mildly pronounced bass. 
 
Wharfedale Diamond 12.0-12.2: Solid performers that emphasise lower midrange, not offensive at all. Well-built, they sound good, they're just overall pretty safe choices. 
 
PSB speakers: Interesting design, Some people quite like them however I haven't tried them myself. Should be flexible about placement, and there's powered variants of them, too. Slight "V" curve. 
 
For amps, I would probably recommend the sabaj a10a. For the price it's super solid, and it'll provide all the power your system needs. Even comes with a remote. Now, this only has RCA in, so you would either have to use that, or get a converter from amazon. Alternatively, you could buy a dac, but one with HDMI inputs or such (That's also decent at it's job, acting as a device that would also improve your sound), could cost a pretty penny. 

Well There's powered speakers that dont require an amplifier (because it's inbuilt), and there are unpowered, which do need an amp. There's a ton of options out there depending on what you're looking for, I'll list off some of my favorites (Assuming USD):
 
Powered speakers (self-contained, require no amp)
 
Adam t5-t8 series. High performance Basic black box, smaller sizes are more suited for closer use. Larger speakers will provide more bass, but if you have them too close to a wall It'll be bloated and won't be very well controlled. Pretty flat and neutral overall, t8v has more prominant bass and treble (V shape sound sig)
 
Klipsch the Fives (purchase from Costco for $500-$600). They have tons of connection options including HDMI arc, you can adjust sources on the fly easily. They're pretty flexible and can work backed up to a wall but they again like a little breathing room, and they're quite classy, with a real-wood verneer and nice colorways. Also more of a v shape, It'll be pretty agressive with the bass and treble.
 
Various edifier speakers ($100-$700). Most edifiers at this pricerange are quite solid, they're pretty classy, they perform pretty well, they're pretty flexible.
 
Moving on to unpowered speakers (will require an amp, which I'll discuss later):
 
Kef q150s (On sale for $350). Flexible about placement and where you sit relative to it while listening, It's not the prettiest or best-built speaker in the world, but [imo] damn, does it sound good. Doesn't need much space behind it but it'll reward you in spades if you decide to play around with it to place it right. Mildly pronounced bass. 
 
Wharfedale Diamond 12.0-12.2: Solid performers that emphasise lower midrange, not offensive at all. Well-built, they sound good, they're just overall pretty safe choices. 
 
PSB speakers: Interesting design, Some people quite like them however I haven't tried them myself. Should be flexible about placement, and there's powered variants of them, too. Slight "V" curve. 
 
For amps, I would probably recommend the sabaj a10a. For the price it's super solid, and it'll provide all the power your system needs. Even comes with a remote. Now, this only has RCA in, so you would either have to use that, or get a converter from amazon. Alternatively, you could buy a dac, but one with HDMI inputs or such (That's also decent at it's job, acting as a device that would also improve your sound), could cost a pretty penny. 

If you want greater fidelity or more connection options (If you're just missing anything in general) you can go ahead and list your budget, and if you're okay with actual speakers (which will sound far better unless you're talking about spending cash in the upper hundreds or lower thousands, where soundbars catch up a little). 

If you want greater fidelity or more connection options (If you're just missing anything in general) you can go ahead and list your budget, and if you're okay with actual speakers (which will sound far better unless you're talking about spending cash in the upper hundreds or lower thousands, where soundbars catch up a little). 

Tech may have, as in BT connection or HDMI ARC, but speakers.... they'll last decades, if not longer.
 
I would only upgrade if you need different connection types or they just don't give you the sound you want. 
 
There's no reason to replace "outdated" speakers tho.  
 
Still rocking my Mirage home theatre set, my old man still has his Pioneers from Vietnam (yes, the war).  Speakers are one of the "spend as much as you can" on them, as they last.

This might help you.
 
 

Ohmage isn't the only decider of how hard a headphone is to drive, it can heavily depend on sensitivity of the headphone. Quick snippet from the pinned "Before you get an amp and dac recommendations" thread 
 
Ohmage does not say if your headphones are hard to drive or not.
 
You can have 600 Ohm headphones that are easier to drive than 32 Ohm headphones. It is the sensitivity and efficiency that matters the most.
A very quick example of this would be the K612 and the HE 560. The K612 has a ohm rating of 120 Ohm and a sensitivity rating of 101 SPL/V, while the HE 560 has a Ohm rating of 45 Ohm and a efficiency rating of 90 SPL/mW. Using a online calculator we get these results, which shows that the HE 560 will need more power than the K612, despite the K612 having a Ohm rating that is almost three times higher than the HE 560's.
I used this website to calculate the power needed http://www.digizoid.com/headphones-power.html
 
Essentially Ohmage will be used to determine the amout of resistance, 

Ohmage isn't the only decider of how hard a headphone is to drive, it can heavily depend on sensitivity of the headphone. Quick snippet from the pinned "Before you get an amp and dac recommendations" thread 
 
Ohmage does not say if your headphones are hard to drive or not.
 
You can have 600 Ohm headphones that are easier to drive than 32 Ohm headphones. It is the sensitivity and efficiency that matters the most.
A very quick example of this would be the K612 and the HE 560. The K612 has a ohm rating of 120 Ohm and a sensitivity rating of 101 SPL/V, while the HE 560 has a Ohm rating of 45 Ohm and a efficiency rating of 90 SPL/mW. Using a online calculator we get these results, which shows that the HE 560 will need more power than the K612, despite the K612 having a Ohm rating that is almost three times higher than the HE 560's.
I used this website to calculate the power needed http://www.digizoid.com/headphones-power.html
 
Essentially Ohmage will be used to determine the amout of resistance, 

Ohmage isn't the only decider of how hard a headphone is to drive, it can heavily depend on sensitivity of the headphone. Quick snippet from the pinned "Before you get an amp and dac recommendations" thread 
 
Ohmage does not say if your headphones are hard to drive or not.
 
You can have 600 Ohm headphones that are easier to drive than 32 Ohm headphones. It is the sensitivity and efficiency that matters the most.
A very quick example of this would be the K612 and the HE 560. The K612 has a ohm rating of 120 Ohm and a sensitivity rating of 101 SPL/V, while the HE 560 has a Ohm rating of 45 Ohm and a efficiency rating of 90 SPL/mW. Using a online calculator we get these results, which shows that the HE 560 will need more power than the K612, despite the K612 having a Ohm rating that is almost three times higher than the HE 560's.
I used this website to calculate the power needed http://www.digizoid.com/headphones-power.html
 
Essentially Ohmage will be used to determine the amout of resistance, 

For the headphones I might recommend the schiit asgard and modi, the mic will want it's own interface, iirc the komplete audio one should work well, the audiobox96 and audient evo4 also work as well. The asgard amp will be a touch on the warmer side, might tame the t1's slightly, has more than enough juice to properly power the t1's.

Primarily because all besides of BSV2 have clear links to other, non "gamer" headphones (Takstar 80 pro for hyperx, 82 pro for cooler master). Depending on how much it would cost for OP, I might recommend the akg k361, it should be a little stretch over your budget, but if you care about sound quality, the akg's blow everything else out of the water.