GamerTrem

You can do this either by running the game in windowed mode or using PPP/PIP modes included in the monitor. Both variants won't support HDR and the PBP/PIP variant will also not be able to use VRR.
 
Realistically, a monitor won't impact your yearly electricity cost that much.
 
Say you're using it an average of 5 hours per day, and one monitor comsumes around 50W per hour, that would mean you're looking at roughly 91 kWh per year. California electricity sits around 29.11 ¢/kWh so that would mean you pay $26.49 per year for just the monitor. You can decide yourself if an extra $20 or so per year are worth it.
 
Dual monitor is better in practically any way when it comes to multitasking and gaming.
 
I never had 2 ultrawide monitors, but I've always been using a higher-end monitor as my main and an extra basic 1080p monitor on the side. Every time I tried to go back to 1 monitor had me going back to 2 monitors within less than a week.

Unfortunately they were out of warranty by several months. If I had contacted them when the issue started they would have replaced them. The biggest issue is the slow warranty services and lack of communication. But having known malfunctioning hardware and not directly contacting those who purchased them (as much as is possible with 3rd party sellers) seems like a lapse as well. Not to the extent other companies have gone at least.

1) I have dual ultrawides because FUCK IT. But generally when gaming the game takes up the whole screen. I dont know of any screens off hand that allow you to section a ultrawide. Unless you play in windowed mode. Use Power Toys to create sections.
 
2 )Well, I was told that my 34" 1440p ultrawide has about 20% less pixels than a 4K 16:9 panel. So you would be having to drive more pixels vs a 16:9 panel. Id imagine for your GPU that might not be an issue.
 
3) With an ultrawide you can put 3 windows side by side easily. So if you like to multitask like that its nice. The only negatives is some times games dont play as nice. As in some times they dont support ultrawide and you will have black bars.
 
4) The first ultrawide I got was a 1080p 25" panel. The second ultrawide I bought was 34" 1440p, personally I think 34" is good enough. I wouldnt go smaller and you could go bigger but you need a lot of desk space.
 

I used to run a 4790k myself. The stock cooler can't keep up (couldn't launch Fallout 4 without my PC shutting down). The cooler you linked will do great for it though.

Give them a week and try again I would say. I think they replied to ours in 3 days... (But I remember we actually got impatient and almost get Amazon to replace the case...)

I can say that our consumer laws don't have some ultimate "money-back" thing after multiple replacements. Money-back is only within return period (14-32 days usually, 30 days for online orders) and there product must be in good condition to be able to resell etc. After its over that timeframe, you only have warranty which is 6 monhts up, usually 1-2 years. Warranty is either repair or replace with equivalent product. There's no money-back, and usually if you end up with shitty product with shitty company (for me this was recently Sony), you will just have to eat it up and go with some other brand next.

Did you buy directly from evga.com or from a retailer like Amazon, newegg, best buy, etc?
 
If you're having issues with that model you could always request the replacement be a different but equivalent model they sell, something else similarly priced. Though, EVGA doesn't have a huge range of keyboards so unless you have an older discontinued model and they have a newer model that replaced it that probably wouldn't work out. 

You can check consumer protection laws at FTC.Gov. However I dont think there really is anything they will do. Your state could have laws of their own, but keep in mind if EVGA doesn't have a physical presence in the state, then its hard for the state to enforce those laws. 
 
This kinda sounds like the issue I had with the Samsung Movement smart phone back in the day. Sprint kept replacing them but the GPS and other things never worked. So I never bought another Samsung phone ever again and I switched over the T Mobile after a few years. 

Check your countries local consumer protection laws. As long as you're in a country with even halfway decent consumer protection laws you should be covered, and if the manufacturer/retailer isn't cooperating there will likely be an ombudsman you can go to for mediation. 
 
It would help to know what product you purchased, who the manufacturer is, who the retailer is, and the nature of the fault.
Generally if you purchased from a retailer and are trying to get a refund from the manufacturer then that isn't their responsibility - they can't refund your purchase if they never took your money. They'll only provide a repair or replacement. You should go through the retailer you purchased from if you want a refund. 

Your safest option is Logitech. They are one of, if not the biggest brand in computer accessories, and therefore have the best support. They also make really great keyboards. I personally have a Logitech G Pro keyboard that's over 2 years old at this point and it is still rock solid, not a single defect.
 
Some other options I've heard good reviews from are Corsair and Keychron, but I don't have any personal experience with them. Still, they make good keyboards.

If you smell burning ANYTHING shut the whole thing down and unplug the power supply. Start inspecting everything. Every cable, every component, everything. A burning smell is a major sign that something is going wrong. This could very possibly lead to a fire that at its best will destroy everything in your PC and at worst burn your home down with people inside of it. A burning smell is serious, do not ignore that.

If you smell burning ANYTHING shut the whole thing down and unplug the power supply. Start inspecting everything. Every cable, every component, everything. A burning smell is a major sign that something is going wrong. This could very possibly lead to a fire that at its best will destroy everything in your PC and at worst burn your home down with people inside of it. A burning smell is serious, do not ignore that.

The EVGA power supply shouldn't have any trouble handling those power requirements. While you were running with the Gigabyte PSU did you ever have any crashes, or other unexpected shut downs? Knowing their track record there could possibly be some hardware issues caused by it.
***Edit*** Saw you said you had issues with the Gigabyte PSU. So it could be the culprit, but not the guaranteed issue. 
 
The second thing I'd look at, I'd reseat the GPU and double check power connections. I say this because I had similar issues after cleaning my PC years ago and reseating the GPU fixed it. While swapping the PSU something may have been slightly offset.
 
You said temps look good, but I know when I'm gaming I'm not always keeping an eye on the temps as close as I could. Grab some benchmarking software and keep an eye on the temps, power spikes/drops, etc and see if anything pops up. As a follow up, what's your cooler, case, and fan setup? Temps could be stead until hit with a load and overwhelm your cooling for the 5600X. Not a hot CPU, but could always be the culprit.

If all that looks good, give reformatting a shot. System might just need a fresh start.

According to the manual, it needs to have a SATA power cable hooked up to operate at all. I've never tried to use it without hooking it up to the PSU. I would guess all USB 3.0 cards with that many ports would need that, as the USB 3.0 standard requires a decent amount of power.
 
If you can't get SATA power to it, I found this 4 port card that doesn't require additional power: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07SRT4PLL/ref=vp_m_pb_TIER2_cml_lp_B072LS4JH7_pd?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07SRT4PLL&pd_rd_w=GnKQc&pf_rd_p=580b9f9a-9900-47ea-b18d-6dabbb3fd80a&pf_rd_r=X40B1ZJMHVCRHDR7JJX1&pd_rd_r=d381d37e-2ca8-4b61-a1c6-038db2bca021&pd_rd_wg=eojrf

USB Expansion card is always better than USB hub.
It has a dedicated chip for creating the new usb connection without using the existing path from the chipset.
So the bandwidth will be just as good.
USB hub splitting the bandwidth from 1 usb port, good enough for low bandwidth devices like keyboard or mouse.
But for connecting external drives, where you need a lot of bandwidth, expansion card is always the better choice.

My first thought would be multiple USB SSDs. Let's say you have a central computer for footage ingest and your footage is on portable SSDs. You have several people who need to use the same computer simultaneously. They can each attach their drive(s) and none of them will slow down the others.
 
It's a niche use case, but obviously there's some amount of demand for them.

about the only different one I've seen are exotic ones that have 4x USB Controllers on a 4 port card, each with their own bandwidth.  
 
I have NO CLUE why anyone would actually need that much USB bandwidth.  They're also spensive, cuz they're weird, and won't sell a lot!

usb is stupid easy for them to make, unless you're after something really exotic?  They're all about the same.  The one in my PC at work is StarTech and was 20-something bucks for 4 ports?  (I think)
 
Edit:  On that card, it has SATA Power for additional power delivery, not for data.

a PCI-E USB card will give you a new USB Controller with fresh bandwidth.  a hub will split existing bandwidth.

i have this installed into my pc works perfect. allows alot of expansion for usb
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07Q1HXN42/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I agree with Pandora1. Save some money on the motherboard. A 400 dollar motherboard is pretty overkill unless you're doing some heavy overclocking or need the specific features that motherboard has. Everything else looks pretty solid.

I agree with Pandora1. Save some money on the motherboard. A 400 dollar motherboard is pretty overkill unless you're doing some heavy overclocking or need the specific features that motherboard has. Everything else looks pretty solid.

I agree with Pandora1. Save some money on the motherboard. A 400 dollar motherboard is pretty overkill unless you're doing some heavy overclocking or need the specific features that motherboard has. Everything else looks pretty solid.

Thanks, I knew it wouldn't need to be too powerful, but was looking for a more solid answer since I've never built my own "server" specific PC.

Should be able to run the server, play as a client, and stream all at once on your current PC. Your cap might be your upload speeds. If you test it out and people connecting to your server end up with high ping you'll have to look into renting with a server host.