MarvinKMooney

their*

Not sure why you would make this comment without sharing your opinion.

Mad address is great!

I just realized how great Mac Address is as a YouTube channel. The idea has been done before, but the execution on this one is perfect. Everything feels minimal and clean and so different to other Linus Media Group productions that you would think that it’s a completely different channel or even a small channel run by a few guys who like cameras and Apple products. I’m convinced that there’s a small minority of people that know Mac Address as “that cool channel that makes videos about Apple products” and not “Linus’ apple channel” 
 
Well done to Jonathon & team for building such a cool brand

I was thinking that this song might turn out a little different these days.
 

Yes...?
 
 
Gooey.

Track: Ambience 
Artist: Life

I had same experience as well
If the platform serving ads doesn't give any single crap on making actual good ads experience and care for their users, I don't see the problem of blocking it

as i understand it, the use of an ad blocker is to block intrusive ads, but rossmann's glorification of ad blockers (among others) have reached a point where youtube addicts are looking for every possible way to block ads, this situation has turned places such as r/youtube into a cesspool of made up posts of complaining about ads and the anti-adblocker, one of the most upvoted posts of the week was some dude claiming that he needed not to have ads in a first aid video. lil bro wants to watch a youtube video before calling 911. 
 
i use ublock origin and im doing well enough, not a single annoying ad, but these ad blocker people want to block every possible ad, even if non-intrusive.
 

ok, ok... but ublock pretty much blocks 99% of all ads, and also how would *you* know which ads are malicious...?  hint: you don't lol
 
no, its to block *all* ads, and tracking, and *especially* "malicious" ads... all ads are "intrusive" by nature... 

I have had ads on Facebook try to give me malware. So yes in my eyes all ads are bad because these dumb fucks refuse to verify who they are selling ads to.

From that video, only two are easy to purchase in the EU. One of them is crazy expensive and the other is a wera. I was looking for something people like, for example maybe a bahco, that could work and is attainable in europe. I would love the LTT screwdriver, but when it's in PB swiss price ranges to buy in europe, I can't really justify it. Thank you for responding

Yes, I and 183 people in the hardware survey are all having this issue and some people, frankly, might never learn they have it as they might just focus on a modern game without the issue.
 
I have run MemTest on request by XFX, zero errors. The main issue is that yes, this is frustrating personallyl. But there are over 100 people before AMD deleted the survey thread off their Reddit, a few DOZEN threads in their support forums, all with zero answer publicly from AMD.
 
They are working with me in e-mails for the past 6 months straight. Memtest, Furmark, ADA64, 1 monitor only, DDU 7 times now several times before whole driver updates... reformating, chanigng OS, etc.
 
The thing is this. You might not know you have this issue, until you go to play a game that the issue is on. That was me until I started playing Darktide, and I assumed it was the game... so I went back to Cyberpunk, I love Cyberpunk! Awesome game. Raytracing is amazing! Then... Unreal Editor. The issue of driver timouts starts again... huh. Weird, right? I am a Unity dev so whatever, I just dropped it. I realized it was an actual issue after I played Cyberpunk, Battletech HBS, and both were fine... then I started Deus Ex Mankind Divided. Driver hang issue! If I went back to DX11 the driver timeouts stop, but the game CHUGS and looks like garbage.
 
Then, Phantom Brigade, another game I had been super looking forward to since the demo! Demo ran fine so I thought I was safe. Phantom Brigade! And it seemed to run fine, I got through a few of the first missions and when it came time to assault the base, which is where I got to in the demo... DRIVER TIMEOUT! "Holy F&$@" I think, another game it affects, I thought. So I tried some indie Unreal games, most had the driver timeout. I used to think it was just an Unreal issue, but then I realised;
 
Crashing Games:
Unreal: Unreal Editor, Deus Ex Mankind Divided, Deus Ex Human revolition, Several Indie games
Unity: Phantom Brigade
Autodesk Stingray: Darktide, Vermintine 2
Sekiro Enigne: Armoured Core 6
 
Games that run Fine:
RedEngine: Cyberpunk 2077
Unity: Battletech, ShadowRun, Sattelite Reign, Scorn, bunch of Indies
CryEngine: MechWarriorOnline, Shatterline, Star Scamizen
Gamebryo: Starfield (Post patch)
GameMaker: Holocure
Slipstream: Halo Infinite
 
 
Note, that some games in Unity sometimes crash, and some don't. Some games in Unreal crash others do not. According to the Survey and other people's complaints on the forums and the survey, some people get this issue in Cyberpunk 2077, some don't. You can say it's rare,. but I don't think this issue is. All 3 on Linus' team had it, we have 183 survey responses, there are several dozen posts on teh AMD forums.
 
I am betting this issue is hitting almost everyone with a 7XXX card, but they don't know it because they luck out with the games they are on... until they stop lucking out, and once that hits you and you are random, you can not play that game through no fault of your own.
 
That's a massive risk. How could anyone recommend a product with that risk? And to be honest, I can't feel good not warning people about this. Look, I am an AMD fan over the years, my build should show that... I have a backup PC that is;
 
GPU 7600 (XFX 3x fan)
CPU 5600X
RAM G.Skill TridentZ 32gb
PSU Some 800W Corsair semi-modular lol
MOBO X470-F Strix Gaming (oh man what a garbage MOBO)
OS Windows 11Pro
 
I still have an R9 290x, HD 5650, I solt an HD 7970 just a bit ago (made a profit on it!) and a few older classikc/retro ATI cards from back in the day all that I made HUGE profit on- like holy heck retro gaming is takin goff and these were goldmines for the people who bought them. I have set up 2600x's in multiple backup/server/nas builds, and yeah... it sucks, but you SHOULD NOT BUY AMD right now. It is a MASSIVE liability, even if you don't use your PC for work. You h ave no idea if it is faulty or not and you could be ticking down your warranty or RMA period without ever knowing. And the worst thing is... making excuses for AMD instead of pressing them to properly investigate or fix this issue. Several hundred of us have been being led around by AMD for months now, almost a year...

In all of your tests you did not once actually change a component, so how do you know 100% it's the GPU (or CPU, really don't know which one you are talking about)? 

I can understand the frustration but what you're experiencing is quite rare and may not even be related to the card itself at all. It can be just unstable RAM, have you actually checked if it's not throwing any errors?

Summary
T-Mobile was going to auto-upgrade users on older cheaper plans to newer more expensive plans, as a way to hike prices up for customers without technically raising plan prices. An opt-out was offered but not advertised, and users on social media made a lot of noise about this not being cool, including a post on these LTT forums. The topic was covered by TechLinked and other outlets, and T-Mobile announced today they will not go through with this BS.

 
Quotes
 
My thoughts
T-Mobile knew from the start this was a BS move. Customers have always had the option to upgrade to newer, more expensive plans if they wanted to. T-Mobile has traditionally respected grandfathered plans, it's been part of how they've differentiated themselves from the competition as being pro-consumer. Lately T-Mobile has pulled a lot of BS, with posts complaining about their "re-carrier" moves all over Reddit... it's nice to see they can still be shamed into doing the right thing at least this once though.
 
Sources
https://tmo.report/2023/10/t-mobile-has-cancelled-the-forced-plan-migrations-at-least-for-now/
https://www.cnet.com/tech/mobile/t-mobile-walks-back-forced-plan-migration-wont-make-people-switch-plans-after-all/
https://www.fiercewireless.com/wireless/t-mobile-backtracks-price-migrations-during-q3-earnings

We won for now*. 

Erroneous context my ass. They are just trying to pour some water on the dumpster fire that was this god awful decision.
You can bet they WILL retry this at some other, in a more stealthily way, no advance warning.

Happily paying for YT Premium since 2018. I'm an adult with an income, welcome to the real world. 

You clearly don't know how efficient I am.

All the time I'll see people recommend PSUs based on efficiency. This, although fundamentally a good idea so that you don't end up with a stick and some chewing gum powering your system, shows that most do not understand what 80 PLUS efficiency implies. Let's get a couple myths out of the way:

- "A higher 80 PLUS rating correlates to better quality." Incorrect. Certain components in a PSU do need to be of a certain quality to achieve higher efficiency (typically MOSFETs and diodes), however, quality of soldering, certain capacitors, etc, can be forgone in achieving an exemplary 80 PLUS rating. Electrical performance can be ditched as well. I like to use the EVGA G1 as an example of this. It's made of above average componentry, performs lackingly, and achieves gold efficiency. Then there's the EVGA B2, which is constructed about as well, performs better electrically, and advertises 80 PLUS Bronze efficiency (it actually achieves 80 PLUS Silver efficiency but that standard has been given up by and large). The EVGA B2 is a better PSU than the G1, yet it wastes slightly more electricity. This will correlate to a marginally more expensive power bill (pennies on the dollar for most home users) but ensures you a better power supply for your money. If, however, you plan to run a very power-hungry system for several hours on end then a more efficient power supply can save a more noticeable amount of money, especially if used heavily during hours of the day where electricity is more expensive.
 
On another note: some brands will undersell their unit's rated wattage if it can achieve higher efficiency at lower loads, I.E. a brand may sell a 550W 80 PLUS Platinum rated unit that can actually output 600W+ but would have to be advertised at a lower efficiency rating if they were to sell it at that rated wattage.

- "Higher 80 PLUS efficiency keeps the PSU cooler." Not to any serious degree, but this is technically true. A less efficient PSU will waste more electricity and wasted electricity is turned into heat. This is not likely to have an appreciable impact on the temperature of your room or system however as your system doesn't really draw that much power, thus it's better to optimize your system's airflow before throwing an AX1500i in your system to minimize heat created by the power supply. Since PSUs exhaust heat anyways the temperature of your system's hardware will not be impacted to any noticeable degree. Different PSUs also handle cooling differently and 80 PLUS efficiency doesn't correlate to the size of the fan used or the heat-dissipation abilities of the unit.
 
- "Power supplies are most efficient at around 50% load." This is, by and large, untrue, and seems to be set in stone by many simply because the peak efficiency measured by Ecova's testing of just three load levels is at 50% always. Many manufacturers or reviewers test PSU efficiency at different loads and post charts online, if this matters to you, but many PSUs are more efficient at 60% load than 50% and many are more efficient towards 30%. Don't buy a PSU based on how efficient it will be with whatever hardware you have in it. Different topologies and different PSU platforms handle efficiency differently. This should be a non-issue and you should be looking at buying the best PSU you can get with your money.
 
- "If you have a 1000W PSU with an 80% efficiency then you are only going to be able to get 800W from your power supply." This is incorrect. If you have an 80% efficient 1000W PSU then, when putting it under enough load to max its output you are going to be drawing more power from the walls - not losing output from your power supply. In this instance, putting a 1000W PSU under max load with an 80% efficiency would mean you're drawing 1250 watts from the wall. Math goes as such:
                                                                                                X / Y= Z                  
                                                                                        1000W / .80 = 1250
                                                                                  1250W drawn from the wall

X represents the wattage you're using (say 350W with a Ryzen 7 3700X and RTX 2080 Super under 100% system load), Y represents the efficiency in decimals (an 85% efficient PSU would be .85), and Z represents your total system draw from the wall. For this calculation we're assuming that the PSU in question has exactly enough wattage to power the system at 100% load and is 87% efficient at 100% draw, making it an 80+ Gold efficient power supply.


So in our case with the 3700X and 2080 Super:
                                                                                               350 / .87
                                                                      = 402 watts drawn from your power outlet
 
Note, however, that efficiency is not consistent throughout the load of the power supply.

Power supplies are more and less efficient at different loads. They are also more efficient when connected to a more powerful grid, the 230V nominal, which you may use if you don't live in North America. Check that your PSU allows for operation under both voltages. Most modern ones switch operation automatically. Other, often older units, will have a hard switch at the back of the unit to switch to choose from either 115V or 230V (note, DO NOT SWITCH TO THE ONE THAT DOESN'T MATCH THE ELECTRICAL OUTPUT OF YOUR WALL OUTLET! This doesn't usually end well!). This graph demonstrates the efficiency curve of a 2011-era Corsair TX750 when plugged into a 115V AC versus being plugged into a 230V AC. Note the TX750 is an 80+ Bronze rated PSU.
                
                                      
 

If you live in the United States, for example, you are using a 110-120V (115 nominal) AC through a standard NEMA 5-15 socket. Your power supply may be more or less efficient than your manufacturer claims because they may advertise efficiency through a 230V AC, though standard 80 PLUS efficiency testing is done on a 115V AC. Note that these tests for efficiency are also done under very specific test environments and do not necessarily reflect real-world scenarios so you may achieve higher or lower efficiency than rated by the manufacturer.

And just to finish up let's go list the various 80 PLUS ratings and their efficiency at different power draws on a 115V and 230V AC as well as 230V AC redundant.
                                                                               
 
                                                                          
Note that Silver isn't really used anymore and the efficiency of a PSU that would achieve Silver certification would typically just be rounded up or down to Bronze or Gold. "230V internal redundant" refers to efficiency in a redundant scenario like in a data center. This guy from Dell explains it.
 
One last thing I want to make a little more hard-hitting here. 80 PLUS efficiency ratings were invented to save corporations and industrial services money in the long-term, not home users! A company with 1000 computers all consuming 100W for 10 hours a day will see a much greater benefit from having all 80 PLUS Titanium units in their systems than you likely would with your system. Don't spend tons of money trying to get a super efficient PSU when a PSU that's just as good, costs less, and achieves a tier lower 80 PLUS rating is drastically cheaper. 
 
Resources:
Ecova (formerly Ecos), the 80 PLUS certification founder (and located very near me in Portland!)
Wikipedia - There's more info here if you want to go down the Wikipedia rabbit hole
Plug Load Solutions - A list of all PSU companies and how many different PSUs they have that achieve Ecova's various 80 PLUS standards.