Mateyyy

it

I think you're looking a little too far into it. The 5800X has its 8 cores packed much more close together than the 5900X's 12 cores, making its thermal density higher and thus making the heat transfer between the CPU and the CPU cooler less efficient - so basically, your first hypothesis. I doubt there's much in the way of 'binning' being done with these chips, both because they're just regular, mainstream parts, and because it wouldn't really be practical considering the ongoing semiconductor shortage.

No. If you can afford a 5950X, then surely you can afford at least a half-decent motherboard.

It's because, with most memory kits, they won't always be using one particular die. 3200 CL16 kits are the clearest example of this, since pretty much any die under the sun will run those speeds, so if you were to buy several 3200 CL16 Vengeance LPX kits for instance, even right now you'd probably see various different ICs used in them (possibly including reject Samsung B-die even).

No, stay on Windows 10.

Did you just press the CPU block slightly onto the CPU, or is that after you properly mounted and screwed it into place? The thermal paste should spread all across the IHS.

Yes, you can use a Ryzen 3600 with that board, provided you're running a BIOS revision that supports Ryzen 3000. Looking at Asrock's website, it looks like the earliest BIOS version that'll support a 3600 is 5.90, here: https://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/A320M-HDV/index.asp#BIOS If you're already running 5.90 or a newer BIOS version, then you can just throw a 3600 right in. Otherwise, you will need to update it first.

You could throw more cooling onto the card, but that isn't going to change the fact that your ambient temps are super high. I would primarily focus on just minimising the amount of heat the GPU itself is putting out, by way of undervolting. Here's a quick guide that should make things pretty simple: If, for some reason, you're opposed to the idea of undervolting (as you kind of seem to be going by how you mentioned it in the original post, and the fact that you're glossing over other people suggesting it..?), then I would just leave it as is. Sure, 88C is hot, but it should still technically be within safe figures. Just try and not look at that temperature indicator too often if you're that sensitive.

No. The 32GB kit is certainly the better deal here.

That obviously depends on the software you're using, though I reckon cropping the larger image to the exact size of the smaller one should do the trick.

Did you shoot one photo through the viewfinder, and the other using live view? Go into your camera's settings and make sure the aspect ratio is set to 3:2 (I'm guessing it's set to 16:9 right now).

https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/his-rx-570-iceq-x2-oc.b4476

Note: It's important to note that I wouldn't really consider this as being a review, per se. I'm not well enough versed when it comes to the world of audio to be able to provide a detailed analysis of things like frequency response, imaging, etc. and to directly compare them to other products on the market. This is more about my impressions and what I think of these headphones just as a regular user, so if you're okay with that, let's proceed. The HE400se is HIFIMAN's latest addition to their planar magnetic headphone lineup, and also their most affordable, coming in at $149. I managed to get them for around €170 here in Europe. They're not cheap by any means, but that doesn't mean that they can't be a great value, depending on how many of HIFIMAN's more expensive yet very well regarded products' qualities have been brought down over to them. HIFIMAN seems to put a lot of care into the packaging for their products, though obviously some things had to be cut down a little with the HE400se to meet the targeted price point. Things are very simple here, with the headphones only being accompanied by a cable, a 3.5mm to 1/4" adapter and some paperwork. Speaking of cutting down… that cable. It’s just plain horrible. It’s microphonic, looks cheap and is an absolute nightmare when it comes to tangling. I would really just consider getting a custom cable to go with these headphones from the get-go. Granted this does kind of go against the “value” aspect of the HE400se, but I feel it’s worth spending the extra bit of money for a much better overall experience. I went with a 2.5mm balanced cable from Meze Audio, which I then paired with a 2.5mm to 4.4mm adapter to plug into my iFi ZEN DAC. The headphones feel good in terms of their build quality, with good quality plastics, a metal frame and very soft faux leather and fabric. They're quite comfortable over long listening sessions. I'd say they're pretty similar to my old Beyerdynamic Custom One Pros in that aspect. Obviously the most important thing when it comes to headphones is the sound, and I’ve got to say that I’m impressed. Whatever I throw at them, they deliver a very punchy yet detailed sound, without ever going overboard on anything. The bass is satisfying but controlled, mids are very clear giving a great reproduction of vocals, and highs sound smooth and bright enough without ever being jarring/piercing to my ears. They also have a great soundstage, though the downside of this is that the sound leakage and isolation performance is very poor, because of the planar drivers and open design. To end this off, I feel like I really got my money’s worth with the HE400se, offering me an excellent listening experience through and through. I just have to say though that if you’re looking to buy these, I wouldn’t just look at the price of the headphones themselves. Sure, they might be a great value on paper, but you’ll ideally want to add a replacement cable and an amplifier to the cost to get the most out of them, since as I’ve said previously the stock cable is trash and they’re also not exactly the easiest things to power (I definitely wouldn’t recommend them if all you’re looking for is a pair of headphones to plug into your phone).

450W is plenty for your i5 and 1660Ti, it's just that the CV450 is a very mediocre PSU. Ideally I'd get something a little higher quality, like Corsair's CX and CX-F models. In the meantime however, your PSU should be able to power your components without problems, if I had to guess. If something was to go wrong however, the CV450 should have all the necessary protections in place to prevent any damage from occurring to your components.