JerryBond

You can try
Run cmd as admin
Type
Chkdsk /f/r
Select y to restart when it ask
 
Once back into windows
Run cmd as admin
Type
Sfc /scannow

After previous reply, i tried through shift-restart-change uefi firmware settings, got a black screen, and out of curiosity pressed F10 & enter, and it indeed restarted pc.
Meaning you're right, it's a problem of displaying bios to the screen, for some reason.
I don't have another tv monitor avaliable at the moment, will tell when i do, for sakes of others finding solution to this if it need be

Use aomei partition assistant, it has recovery wizard is free and maybe works.

Nvme is only currently useful for gigantic files.  Sata6 is so fast that the difference is unnoticeable on human time scales unless the files are huge. Hundreds of gigabytes. If you were moving whole movies back and forth it might matter a tiny bit.
 
dedicated (discrete) gpu does not make sense. Only useful for specific workloads.  Gaming is one.

Both will be good with 550W.

Here you go :
https://www.mimovrste.com/napajalniki/bitfenix-napajalnik-formula-80-plus-gold-650-w
https://www.mimovrste.com/napajalniki/bitfenix-napajalnik-whisper-m-80-plus-gold-modularni-550-w
https://www.mimovrste.com/napajalniki/be-quiet-modularni-napajalnik-atx-straight-power-11-80plus-gold-550-w
Cheapest one are very good PSU too, it's just that it's non-modular but it's very quiet too.

That makes Corsair RMx an universal recommendation probably, regardless of location. Bitfenix Whisper M, be quiet! Straight Power 11, Enermax Revolution DF & Deepcool DQ-M on some markets too. I mean, there's a lot of semi-fanless units but these are most quiet ones that will not break your bank. And no, you don't need 750W, 550W are enough, go for 650\750W only if it's like 10$ more.

No, assuming the PSU are good quality to start with, this doesn't work like that. I mean, it definitely wouldn't work good indefinitely, smth like 10 years are the maximum age of PSU i'd use but it doesn't affect power rating this way.

Yeah, that's what I was about to say. It's not like 3.5mm headphone-jacks for a lot and since it's just a few pins, it's not even a lot of work to do.
 
@JerryBond Pro tip: when desoldering the old one, first apply a good amount of leaded solder on top of the solder already there. Manufacturers use unleaded, which is a lot harder to deal with, but applying some leaded solder to it helps in desoldering and removing the unleaded solder.

Having just this week moved from 8320 @ 4.2GHz to Ryzen 7 1700 maybe I can give you some practical figures to help you out. I still plan on overclocking the Ryzen before making a dedicated post about it somewhere, but for this context OC'd 8320 vs. stock Ryzen should do fine.
 
Stock 1700 beats 8320 @ 4.2 by 103% (average) in CPU focused benchmarks (Geekbench, Cinebench, Novabench, PassMark CPU score). Overall I got 43% improvement (with overall benchmarks), but that includes anomalies from -1% (Shadow of Mordor) to a mere 5% improvement (Novabench HW score) and everything mostly unrelated between.
 
When it comes to regular gaming, the difference hasn't been very noticeable. I got +34% performance in BioShock Infinite, but overall score in Gears of War 4 didn't change at 1440p, since it's heavily bound by my GTX 1070 (CPU scores grew 27%). The 1700 vastly outshines 8320 in anything VR related: I had various issues playing with SteamVR, but with the 1700 all those issues are completely gone (maybe thanks to better optimization, I didn't experience performance issues with Oculus' own software even with 8320).
 
In practical terms, despite of what people will tell you, 8320 is still very competent processor in anything that takes advantage of it's cores (and more programs do that than people stuck in their presumptions would have you believe). What Ryzen does is greatly increase the IPC.
 
It also doesn't seem like anyone has pointed it out yet, but Ryzen introduces AMD's version of hyper threading, which further helps with anything that can utilise multiple cores.
 
If you are considering the Ryzen 7 1700 and have any particular scenario in mind, I would be more than happy to benchmark it for you. (I have 16 GB of RAM, GTX 1070 and an SSD).

4ghz is just a number is doesn't mean anything by itself.  If you go by that alone an intel pentium 4 from the early/mid 2000s would be as fast and a new cpu.  What matters is the improvments that come with a newer architecture through the form of IPC (Instructions Per Clock).

52% ipc increase over fx.
 
So basically (very basically because it doesn't work exactly like this) a
fx 8 core @6.08ghz, would be equivalent to a ryzen at 4ghz. It's all about how the silicon works together.

they sayed that zen target was 40% improvement but the archived 52%

Clockspeed isn't everything. Ryzen is a new architecture that is much better in terms of the IPC (instructions per clock) and therefore, all Ryzen CPUs preform better than basically all FX CPUs. 

Don't think there is any.
Again I have no experience with this and your probably the first guy on the internet to try this thing.

There's the problem.
You need to do a clean install if you want windows 10 to work correctly.

Voltage has a much larger influence with power and heat. 
 
increased clocks does next to nothing on the power and heat front. 

I have made a parts list for Italy so this is more of a guide than you should get this, I'll explain the rational with each part and what your friend should pick and give a rating on his parts list.
 
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor  (€240.00 @ Amazon Italia) 
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler  (€40.90 @ Amazon Italia) 
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 Anniversary ATX LGA1150 Motherboard  (€78.57 @ Amazon Italia) 
Memory: Corsair 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory  (€61.14 @ Amazon Italia) 
Storage: A-Data Premier SP550 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  (€64.89 @ Amazon Italia) 
Storage: Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  (€66.65 @ Amazon Italia) 
Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 390 8GB Double Dissipation Video Card  (€272.80 @ Amazon Italia) 
Case: Corsair SPEC-ALPHA ATX Mid Tower Case  (€87.00 @ Amazon Italia) 
Power Supply: SeaSonic 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  (€84.92 @ Amazon Italia) 
Total: €996.87
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-26 14:15 CEST+0200
 
A 4th or 6th Gen unlocked i5 is a great choice for gaming, 4th and 6th Gen series intel CPUs have a good single core performance and because of that will beat an AMD 8 core such as a FX 8320 in single and multi-threaded workloads.
 
I'd look at benchmarks for CPU coolers, I think I read taht the Cryorig H7 was a good value cooler, but then again I am not an expert. I don't like AIOs as much since they have more points of failure and have a much shorter life span compared with tower heatsinks, they also often cost more for the same performance.
 
RAM is basically RAM, 1600MHz DDR3 for 4th Gen intel CPUs, 2100MHz DDR4 for 4th Gen intel CPUs is about standard and fast RAM doesn't effect performance much or at all with gaming.
 
A Z87 or Z97 motherboard so you can overclock a 4th Gen unlocked intel CPU, a Z170 motherboard for a 6th Gen intel CPU so you can overclock. Since only the premium chipset can overclock, you don't have to worry about crappy intel motherboards and overclocking, so any Z series chipset from the respective socket will do.
 
The ADATA SP550, Samsung 850evo, Crucial BX100 and Kingston UV400 are good budget SSDs. I'd get a 240GB SSD or larger since smaller SSDs are more expensive per GB.
 
A Hard Drive is a Hard Drive. There are only 3 HDD manufactures left, WD, Seagate and Toshiba. Samsung and Maxtor HDDs are made by Seagate, Fujitsu and 3.5" Hitachi (HGST) drives are made by Toshiba, 2.5" Hitachi (HGST) are made by WD. Get a 64MB Cache 7200RPM HDD.
 
The R9 390 is a great card, MSI, XFX, Powercolor and Sapphire make really good AMD graphics cards. I'd probably wait for the Rx 480 though.
 
A case is a case, it comes down to personal preference.
 
The PSU he choose is very good, but 850W is overkill, 500W for a single GPU, 750W for 2 GPUs is my recommendation.

Despite my quite pronounced cat allergies, I've never felt the need to strangulate one of the little creatures. Until now. Yesterday, a little furry saboteur snuck in through my open window, jumped on my desk, and PISSED ON MY NEW SPEAKER. 
 
Does anyone know of a sure way to remove the odor of cat urine? And/or track one down and murder it with a mallet? 
 

Agreed, but the point of the OP's thread was to lower it enough to improve component temps and room ambient temps.  That's why I started my last reply as I did.
 
Additionally, dropping idle by .1v on the low end is probably going to be way too much, without reducing idle speed.  It might be possible, but is far from the standard.  I could see getting away with .25v .025v to .5v  .05v maybe.  I'm out of practice with AMD so who knows?  
 
**edited due to a big whoops**  

Well, this is more like the question of how good exacly is OP's chip.
Because exact Frequency/Voltage scaling rests solely on silicon lottery.
I think you agree that in best case scenario, a -0,1V in offset is possible to be stable at stock clocks (for FX-8320).

I already underclock my 970 for a lot of games. Unless I have my headphones on and there's a lot going on in game in terms of sound, I can't bear the fan noise otherwise, and it has far more power than I need.

http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/faq/id-2122665/understanding-temperature-amd-cpus-apus.html
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-2631410/cpu-socket-temp-core-temp.html#15792236
 
Not running as chilly as you think. Due to the CPU not having a temp sensor.