madscientist56

The Nexus phones were dumpster babies. /s
Edit: Great read, would bang again.

Pay for windows. Problem solved.

Im not sure how but its easy to do this hes not actually playing this i have a friend who was playing Half Life 3 too, hes just trolling
also the title of this topic made me get way too excited

Im not sure how but its easy to do this hes not actually playing this i have a friend who was playing Half Life 3 too, hes just trolling
also the title of this topic made me get way too excited

off topic but ur profile pic just fucked my mind lmao

Great idea, lets all tag the shiz out of linus so he reviews those Korean monitors
 
@LinusTech
@LinusTech
@LinusTech
@LinusTech
@LinusTech
@LinusTech
@LinusTech
@LinusTech
@LinusTech
@LinusTech
@LinusTech
@LinusTech
@LinusTech
@LinusTech
@LinusTech
@LinusTech
@LinusTech

Id go with the Pro, Unless you wont drive yourself insane with stained aluminum; Then go with the 450D

gg Apple. My S4 can't do that. 

Update 26.09.2014: So I guess this topic is done? 

 
Update 25.09.2014: Thanks @Victorious Secret for linking to this video. Is show a professional bend Test of the iPhone 6 Plus and the Note 3 with a 100 Pounds of force. As shown in the Video, the Note 3 bends 4.5 mm, but goes back to its original shape. The iPhone 6 Plus permanently to 3.25mm. They also tested the iPhone 5, which bend 1.75mm. Due to the metal body, the iPhone will remember the bend shape. The Note 3 went back to shape, due to the use of a more flexible Material, in this case Plastic
 

 
Update: 25.09.2014: Marques Brownles explains why the iPhone 6 bends. Way to go Apple for making it thinner, instead of reinforcing it. This time, they should have really compromised the design for build structure.
 

 
Update 24.09.2014: How to prevent the iPhone 6 from bending: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/221472-how-to-correctly-carry-the-iphone-6-plus-how-to-not-flex-the-iphone-6-plus/
 

 
Original Post:
Numerous reports have shown up, that the iPhone 6 and 6 Plus may bend, when carrying it in your pockets. It seems as the body has a weakness around the volume keys, that will allow the bend. The iPhone 6 and 6 Plus are not the first Apple products that bend. Before there have been reports of  bending iPhone 5 and 5s. There are even reports of the bend iPod touch. 
 
The first reports of a bend iPhone 6 plus showed up on the macrumors forum (link bellow). SInce then the number of bending iPhone Reports have been increasing rapidly. 
 
There is not much else to say about this. iPhone 6 Flex? 
 
Source: http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=1785905
Source: http://stadt-bremerhaven.de/iphone-6-plus-will-it-bend/
Source: http://techcrunch.com/2014/09/23/the-iphone-6-plus-gets-bent/
Source: http://www.cnet.com/news/will-it-bend-iphone-6-takes-a-turn-for-the-worse/
 
Bend Test:
 

 
With Note 3 bending comparison:

 
 

Materials and tools
 
- clear acrylic sheet
the stuff I used was 5mm thick. It's important that you use a thick piece of plastic otherwise it will bow when etched, if doing this again I would go for a 10mm thick piece. This need to be cut to the shape of the inside of the case, make it slightly smaller, take the measurements of the inside of the case and remove 5-10mm. You also need a second sheet the exact same shape, however this piece doesn't need to be as thick, 5mm is more than enough. I would recommend sourcing your plastic from sheet plastics UK if your from the uk, sorry I don't know anywhere for anywhere else.
 
- power drill and assorted drill bits
You need a fairly decent power drill that is able to drill steel but the standard battery powered portable drill will do the job. You will also need some drill bits, you will need a 4.5mm or 5mm bit and if you are running any pipes through the midplate you will need another drill bit that is 2mm bigger than the diameter of your pipe. For example my pipes were 10mm so I drilled 12mm hole through the midplate. 
 
- acrylic paint
You could use a spray paint designed for plastic such as plastikotes plastic range or you cab do what I did and use abd acrylic paint that brushes on. I personally prefer to use the brush on paint as you can put a much thicker coat on than you can with a spray can.
 
- mouse sander
The mouse sander is used to remove the paint on the areas where you want the light to shine through. It is important that you use a mouse sander and not a belt sander, belt Sanders are far too aggressive to be used for this purpose, youre only wanting to remove some paint not tons of material.
 
- jigsaw
This is used to cut the plastic sheets down to size and to the correct shape, you will also want some plastic cutting blades.
 
- M4 bolts and M4 nuts x6 each
 
Instructions
 
If you buy any chance have a £5000 laser cutter sitting around it may be a good time to get the manual out and learn how to use it. however if you are like me and don't have one you will need to find one that you can use or you will have to pay for a company to do it for you.
 
Step 1 - Measure your case.
you need to measure the area in which your midplate is going to go. measure from the highest point on the motherboard tray to where the side panel would be. then measure from the front of the case to the rear of the case. for me my measurements for the switch 810 was 515mm by 205mm. write this down its very important.
 

 

 
Step 2 - Enter some 2d design software that can out put a scale drawing in dxf file type. i personally use corel draw becuase i was taught it in school and college, wouldn't reccomend it to be honest there are much better software packages out there but this is the one i have been taught to use. the first thing you need to know is that laser cutters recognise red as cut and black as etch.
 
step 3 - Draw a rectangle that is the same dimensions as you mentioned earlier but with 5mm taken off each measurement. so for example in my switch810 i measured 515mm x 205mm but the rectangle i am drawing is 510mm x 200mm. this is just to allow some wiggle room inside the case. save this design twice, 1st time called layer top and the second time called layer bottom. close layer bottom and open layer top.
 

 
step 4 - draw what ever you want inside that red box, anything that is white will have light shining through and anything that is black wont have light shining through.
 

 
if you look at this picture, this is what you want with your design is white. if you want a picture i find it best to vetorise it with some software like vectorimage first and then drop it into your design software.
 
step 5 - either laser cut the plastic yourself or the more likely option is to send the design away to a company that can do plastic laser cutting. an example of the type of company you are looking for; http://www.cutlasercut.com/.
Few key points you need to get across to the company;
1) you need it cut into 10mm CLEAR ACRYLIC
2) you want a DEEP engrave
3) you need both pieces (layer top and layer bottom) but only one has engraving
 
step 6 - When you recieve your part back it will look something like this:
 

 
Notice how the unetched parts are higher up than the etched parts leaving channels and grooves for the paint to sit in. What you need to do now is paint the whole thing black on the textured side. paint 2-3 thick coats of paint on, you need to make sure that the paint is thick enough to block light so when the light is dry hold it up to the light or something to make sure its thick enough.
 

 
step 7 - 24 Hours after painting plug your mouse sander in and put the piece of acrylic on a flat surface paint upwards. turn the mouse sander on and put it on the painted surface. DONT PRESS DOWN... you're not trying to remove material you are trying to remove a thin layer of paint. move the sander aroun just using the wieght of the sander to remove the paint on the slightly raised up pieces. you need to be careful and there is a fine line between removing the paint and the plastic, it is important not to over sand.
 

 
step 8 -  flip the material over and sand the bottom of the top layer until it looks very frosted, this helps to break up the light and remove the individual led's so it just looks like a glow.
 
step 9 - Wipe down with a cloth, then hold it up to the light. it is very common for the larger areas of paint to have small patches that have been sanded away by mistake, these just need to be fixed using a small paint brush and the same paint.
 
step 10 - tape both layers together so they perfectly align. mark out where you need holes and drill the hole 2mm bigger than the diameter of the pipe that is going through them. this is very simple and will be very custom for your particular build so i can't really help you very much other than that.
 
step 11 - seperate the layers again and put the top layer to one side. take the bottom layer and an led strip of the colour of your choosing. stick the led strip(s) in whatever pattern gives you the most coverage. more led's = bright of course.
 

 
step 12 - place the top layer of the midplate in the exact position you want it to be in. mark using a pencil a line where the bottom of the plastic is on the motherboard tray and the front panel. drill 4.5mm holes so that the top of the hole is level with this line.
 
step 13 - put a bolt through the holes and tighten a nut onto them, this will give you a peg coming out of the side of the case.  make as many pegs as you need for the top layer to stay in place and then do the same with the bottom layer but about 50mm or more lower.
 

 
YOU ARE DONE.

From the midplate master himself :D

my school uses vga on EVERY one of their computers. 

Having Macs.

I'm in the us so not too sure its worth it or not however I thought arkham origins was an ok game with a very classic style fighting system.

Because you get more memories from LTT.  :lol:

I'm sorry, I have helped tons of people on this forum and I am a battlefield 4 player. Take great care when generalizing something that is based on absolutely nothing

It's FPS players, rather than Battlefield. I was playing CoD4 this morning and got called a hacker and sworn at about 20 times because I was doing well. 

Yup you could go to the local hardware store ask about some but I would just use a cable tie to connect it, if you have any lying around.

Then that just means WoodenMarker automatically wins

i actually support @tmccelland455 he WAS going to get ATHENA, that LTT community sent him tons of parts but then the non techie dad said that those parts contains hack chips and they need to be sent back. i never heard from the ATHENA build thread ever again. he's still using his old rig. but its linus' decision anyway

i run amd anything to help cool it is worth it i hit 90c alot before ...

Minecraft Gunpoint Faster Than Light Super Meat Boy LIMBO Rimworld Stealth Bastard Deluxe Diablo II (Using D2MultiRes, PM me) Super Crate Box Baldur's Gate: Enhanced Edition Baldur's Gate II: Enhanced Edition Magic 2014/2015: Duels of the Planeswalkers Hearthstone (Naxxrammas Expansion) To The Moon Thomas Was Alone Trine Trine 2 Anodyne The Bard's Tale Divine Divinity Dungeons of Dredmor Hack, Slash, Loot Civilization III Civilization IV Civilization V Dust: An Elysian Tail Torchlight Showrun Returns Age of Empires II: HD Edition Terraria Halo: Combat Evolved Quake III SimCity 4 Xenonauts Half Life Unreal Tournament 2004 Spelunky Starbound Castle Crashers Plants vs Zombies Cave Story+ And emulators, of course.

We've all heard about the scam calls people have been getting claiming to be Microsoft Support asking for remote access so that they can "fix" your computer while they "secretly" install backdoor software.  Well one pen tester decided that enough was enough.  He managed to discover an exploit in Ammyy Admin which turns the attacked user into the attacker.  Note, that the developer of the exploit notes that the use of such a tool as "revenge" is likely illegal in most countries and he has only tested the kit on a set of virtual machines of his own. 
 
http://arstechnica.com/security/2014/09/turning-the-tables-on-windows-support-scammers-by-compromising-their-pcs/

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Welcome everyone to a new log and let me introduce the willing participant,the In Win D Frame MINI!

After the S3,which is far too large for a LAN box like originally planned,I wanted a smaller footprint and something a bit more aesthetically pleasing,so,after seeing this gorgeous case at Computex,I made some inquiries at In Win and here is the result!

Some of you may have seen this case about and,if you follow any of my forum witterings,probably know already that I had this coming.
The case is a tubular spaceframe design made with Alu tube and,quite frankly,a mobo tray that is a structural grade piece of kit! The tempered glass is a lovely thing to see and is common place on all the high end In Win chassis.

Shall we have a walk round the case then?











You have never seen a mobo tray that thick,guarantee it!



You can have the PSU either way,up or down.



Massively thick HDD and SSD mounts.



Backside of the tray.





Tray out!







The whole tray is decluttered,this ITX case has ambition....



This mod is changing the standard ITX flavour into mATX!





As you can see,you get a substantial case for you money,the anodized frame is nice and well finished and no skimping on materials,Im looking forward to working on it......


First thing is to strip the anodizing ready for some lovely paint,I know I just praised the coating quality and it seems like it would be a waste to strip it but it will be worth it!

The paint I will be using for the frame is....





Also,sadly,that mobo tray is also going for a 25mm sandwich tray that will carry all the cabling,most of the watercooling routing and an integrated reservoir.
As always,the aim is a clean looking build,no faff or fluff but details to keep you entertained!

LET THE BUILD COMMENCE!!


Magoo insists that he is project lead on this.......He isnt but you know....he thinks he is.....

The problem is that the original image isn't of high quality. Much work needs to be done to bring it to a quality that is acceptable for a poster or wallpaper.
 
I re-sized the image to 1440, corrected color, reduced noise (there was a lot), and added a subtle vignette.
 
[EDIT: Updated]
 
http://www.mediafire.com/view/abqgknrylb3xkcv/2cars_Final%202.png
 
 
It still didn't come out GREAT, but it's verry challenging to work with a sample that has lots of noise.