Chickenator

Depends on your room.  As a bit of advice, Ikea is love, Ikea is life.  Go with whatever fits well in your room and holds everything you need it to.  

That mouse is absolutely amazing for work: well laid out, sensible macros, etc.  However, it's certainly not a gaming mouse (as people above have said), nor does it claim to be one.  I get a mouse targeted at gaming that gets good rep (Logitech G303, Sensei, anything with good reviews on amazon) and use that instead.

Build seems solid!  That will do very well in most/all games.

The build looks excellent.  I don't think, however, you will need a PSU of that high a wattage.  maybe step down to 600 watts to save a few pennies? Also, the R9 390 would be a good alternative to the GTX 970 (depends on whether you like team green, with Game stream, G-Sync, Geforce Experience, etc, or team red, with Freesync, mantle (which is dead), eyefinity, trueaudio, etc.).  Their performance is so similar in benchmarks that it really depends on which way you want to sway.  I THINK there is a way to plug a USB 2 header into a USB 3 board and have it operate, but I'm not sure...
 
Here is a good PSU that might save you some: http://au.pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-power-supply-100b10500kr
 
The build if I did it: 
http://au.pcpartpicker.com/p/PXpDgs
 
Only now am I appreciating how much more expensive components are in places besides North America...  If you have a buddy living in the US or Canada, have him buy the parts and mail them, then pay him back.  It might save you some money (but shipping can be an ***).

Yea, getting a new PSU on upgrade is a good idea.  I personally would get a seasonic unit; they are incredibly reliable PSU's.  However, a 750 or 850 watt PSU from corsair wouldn't disappoint either.

Seems pretty sick.  The funny part is, 
シルバー is katakana, and is just how the Japanese pronounce the english word Silver.
 
I had to copy paste it because windows Japanese keyboard isn't working properly for me...

Yep, just realized my mistake.

Thank you guys!  Sounds like a 5820K for me!

In my work, I would take advantage of extra cores and threads.

Guys, a google search reveals that GV-R929OC-4GD is a 290.  I honestly would go with the Sapphire 290.  It is a little cheaper (at least in the U.S.), with the fact added that it's made by sapphire, which is to AMD as EVGA is to Nvidia.  Honestly, any R9 290 will do just fine.

I'm actually having screenshotting troubles on my computer right now.  However, I got all six right.  One reason for this would be my Audio Technica ATH-M50X's, and a soundblaster soundcard.

Oh nevermind, just realized I can bypass buying any membership BS.

Well, if your CPU is always running eerily low, and you're afraid of too low temps (which I wouldn't worry about), just OVERCLOCK DAT S**T!!!

Hey Chickenator,   A Z97 motherboard enables you to overclock the CPU and to add more than one GPU. for OCing you would need a custom CPU Cooler. The build looks solid.  Regarding the storage, WD Black is a performance drive with long warranty and great speeds. If you don't need that much performance I would suggest an alternative such as WD Green. It is designed for secondary storage, cool and quiet performance and saves energy. Here's a link with more info: http://products.wdc.com/support/kb.ashx?id=QznQdB   Captain_WD.

Sure, here is the link to a video review from Jayztwocents, as well as the amazon.com link: 
 
Review: 
 
Buy: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P04ARC2/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00P04ARC2&linkCode=as2&tag=jayz05-20&linkId=7BWYU2BGDG4WQJVU
 
(Hope that this helps).

lol yea RWD just for kicks and giggles.

AWD is the best, anywhere, period.  Handling is amazing, that's why.  I got an AWD car a few years back, and now my family has stolen it from me because they love it so much...

This is why I get studio monitors (closed backed ones).  the Audio Technica ATH-M50X's are arguably the most critically acclaimed pair of headphones on amazon and youtube, and go for about 150-160 dollars.  They have near perfect sound signature (very flat, not for you if you're a bass-head) good sound isolation, fold up to be very portable, are extremely comfy, are built like a tank, have interchangeable types of cords, etc.  Then, if you are willing to splurge to complete the thing, buy a ModMic for 40 or 50 dollars, depending on the time of year.  That leaves you with about 200 dollars for amazing quality.

This is why I get studio monitors (closed backed ones).  the Audio Technica ATH-M50X's are arguably the most critically acclaimed pair of headphones on amazon and youtube, and go for about 150-160 dollars.  They have near perfect sound signature (very flat, not for you if you're a bass-head) good sound isolation, fold up to be very portable, are extremely comfy, are built like a tank, have interchangeable types of cords, etc.  Then, if you are willing to splurge to complete the thing, buy a ModMic for 40 or 50 dollars, depending on the time of year.  That leaves you with about 200 dollars for amazing quality.

Here is my suggestion build.  Most of the reasons for going with the specific parts have been gone over already in the thread.
 
The total is $175 AUD over budget.
 
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant   CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor  ($526.00 @ IJK)  CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler  ($45.00 @ CPL Online)  Motherboard: MSI X99S SLI Krait ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard  ($355.00 @ IJK)  Memory: Crucial 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory  ($255.00 @ Umart)  Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($485.00 @ CPL Online)  Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($178.00 @ Umart)  Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX Titan X 12GB Superclocked Video Card  ($1559.00 @ Umart)  Case: Cooler Master Storm Enforcer ATX Mid Tower Case  ($109.00 @ PLE Computers)  Power Supply: XFX XTR 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($159.00 @ PLE Computers)  Optical Drive: Pioneer BDC-207DBK Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer  ($56.00 @ CPL Online)  Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit)  ($125.00 @ Mwave Australia)  Monitor: Acer XG270HU 144Hz 27.0" Monitor  ($699.00 @ PCCaseGear)  Keyboard: Corsair K70 Wired Gaming Keyboard  ($175.00 @ Centre Com)  Mouse: Razer DeathAdder 2013 Wired Optical Mouse  ($49.00 @ CPL Online)  Total: $4775.00 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-05-18 03:47 AEST+1000   If you plan to add a second Titan-X I would change to a higher output PSU: $251 AUD over budget.  
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant   CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor  ($526.00 @ IJK)  CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler  ($45.00 @ CPL Online)  Motherboard: MSI X99S SLI Krait ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard  ($355.00 @ IJK)  Memory: Crucial 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory  ($255.00 @ Umart)  Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($485.00 @ CPL Online)  Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($178.00 @ Umart)  Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX Titan X 12GB Superclocked Video Card  ($1559.00 @ Umart)  Case: Cooler Master Storm Enforcer ATX Mid Tower Case  ($109.00 @ PLE Computers)  Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000G2 1000W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($235.00 @ CPL Online)  Optical Drive: Pioneer BDC-207DBK Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer  ($56.00 @ CPL Online)  Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit)  ($125.00 @ Mwave Australia)  Monitor: Acer XG270HU 144Hz 27.0" Monitor  ($699.00 @ PCCaseGear)  Keyboard: Corsair K70 Wired Gaming Keyboard  ($175.00 @ Centre Com)  Mouse: Razer DeathAdder 2013 Wired Optical Mouse  ($49.00 @ CPL Online)  Total: $4851.00 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-05-18 03:53 AEST+1000   Hope it helps.

Well, I have friends who got to travel to Japan as Education majors to teach english to Japanese students?  That might be something to look into.

I you REALLY want to throw money at a gamey headset I think the consensus is that the HyperX Cloud II's are probably your best bet.  Really the "portable" aspect is all about the size and in a given size range they are all going to be more or less the same.  Same with durable.  Don't break them!  Personally I would go with a cheaper build and just plan on buying a new set every so often.

If you are seriously focusing on LAN events then wireless is something you should forget about completely.  Too much interference including the possibility that someone else is using the same set.  Closed backs, with good sound isolation, is essential.  I'd prefer a separate mic just because you CAN buy a separate mic which makes it easier to replace (or replace the headphones when they break and keep the mic, and vice versa).

For FPS games I prefer open backed headphones but I'd never take them to a LAN event.

LOL I'm a bit of an audiophile, but what I do for my headset is to get a pair of nice over-ear studio monitors, then slap an Antlion Modmic 4.0 to it.

You could also just find a job that lets you move around the world, and see where you would like to settle permanently later.  I have two cousins in their mid-20's, and both of them are sailing instructors, so they have been to most non-landlocked countries.

When I visit buddies there, it's different, but not in a bad way.  Biking is big (which I like, as an avid cyclist), and the parts I visited were pretty cool (wind turbines frickin' everywhere, blazing internet).  And, everyone I spoke to spoke better English than I did .