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Need to find GS7133 chip

Kenjo

Hey guys, 

Ive been trying to search for this chip GS7133 and some other numbers but i cant find it anywhere

Anyone on here competent and have the knowledge needed i will include a crappy S8+ picture of it ;)

 

20181112_132339.jpg

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Try cleaning the top with alcohol, and then taking a new picture.Then the numbers will be much more clear

 

CPU: 2x E5620 - GPU: 2x GTX660 - RAM: 64gb DDR3 ECC - Mobo: Z800 OEM - Storage:1TB WD Green - 256gb - Micron C400 250gb - 850 EVO - 512gb 850 PRO
Monitors: 3x HP ZR2440W - Keyboard: G710 MX Blue - Mouse: MX Master

Keep up the good tone and stay classyxD

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Just now, pebble guy said:

Try cleaning the top with alcohol, and then taking a new picture.Then the numbers will be much more clear

 

Did that like 5 times ;) its an old Gtx 970 and i went thru a "tutorial" video and this chip isnt giving out the 1.8v its supposed to and changing it out worked in the tutorial so now i have to find an exact same or similare chip ;) that does the same thing... Bare in mind im a novice of a novice of a noob when it comes to electrical components... you could compare it to Britney spears trying to become a rocket scientist in 10min ;)

 

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Ok. Do you have the equipment to take a better picture?
Maybe a bit more info on the kind of card, and brand and model...

CPU: 2x E5620 - GPU: 2x GTX660 - RAM: 64gb DDR3 ECC - Mobo: Z800 OEM - Storage:1TB WD Green - 256gb - Micron C400 250gb - 850 EVO - 512gb 850 PRO
Monitors: 3x HP ZR2440W - Keyboard: G710 MX Blue - Mouse: MX Master

Keep up the good tone and stay classyxD

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And the location on the board

 

CPU: 2x E5620 - GPU: 2x GTX660 - RAM: 64gb DDR3 ECC - Mobo: Z800 OEM - Storage:1TB WD Green - 256gb - Micron C400 250gb - 850 EVO - 512gb 850 PRO
Monitors: 3x HP ZR2440W - Keyboard: G710 MX Blue - Mouse: MX Master

Keep up the good tone and stay classyxD

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3 minutes ago, pebble guy said:

And the location on the board

 

ok here goes

Msi Gtx 970 Gaming 4g 

Location: about 1 inch from Sli connection (the right one of the two) 

Better picture as good as it gets with an S8+ and desklamp ;)

 

20181112_135125.jpg

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Found them on <AliExpress> if you are a super noob you might want to practice a couple of times before soldering onto your card as sop8 isn't exactly the best thing to learn to solder on

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2 minutes ago, Daysy said:

Found them on <AliExpress> if you are a super noob you might want to practice a couple of times before soldering onto your card as sop8 isn't exactly the best thing to learn to solder on

Oh so the Numbers underneath GS7133 means nothing ? 

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33 minutes ago, Kenjo said:

Oh so the Numbers underneath GS7133 means nothing ? 

The numbers underneath could mean various manufacturer specific things such as production dates, batch numbers, etc...

But the actual part is a GSTek GS7133 3A linear low dropout voltage regulator

It's output voltage is set by a resistive divider network in the feedback and thus depends on the application.

 

Some thoughts:

  • The part is not necessarily broken. Some other defect in the circuitry on the device's output might be broken and pulling the output down. Most integrated voltage regulators like this have overcurrent and overtemperature protection so they don't break easily - you might want to do a bit more testing first.
  • The package is a PSOP8, the P stands for "power", a variant on the SO8 package with a metal pad on the bottom which allows it to dissipate more power (https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1oc2uKXXXXXafaXXXq6xXFXXXE/5-PCS-G57133-GS7133-SOP8-baru.jpg ). You will need a hot air desoldering station to remove it from the board, a plain soldering iron won't work. Even with a proper hot air desoldering station it might be tough, given that GPU boards have multiple layers with large power planes and can sink lots and lots of heat.
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32 minutes ago, Unimportant said:

The numbers underneath could mean various manufacturer specific things such as production dates, batch numbers, etc...

But the actual part is a GSTek GS7133 3A linear low dropout voltage regulator

It's output voltage is set by a resistive divider network in the feedback and thus depends on the application.

 

Some thoughts:

  • The part is not necessarily broken. Some other defect in the circuitry on the device's output might be broken and pulling the output down. Most integrated voltage regulators like this have overcurrent and overtemperature protection so they don't break easily - you might want to do a bit more testing first.
  • The package is a PSOP8, the P stands for "power", a variant on the SO8 package with a metal pad on the bottom which allows it to dissipate more power (https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1oc2uKXXXXXafaXXXq6xXFXXXE/5-PCS-G57133-GS7133-SOP8-baru.jpg ). You will need a hot air desoldering station to remove it from the board, a plain soldering iron won't work. Even with a proper hot air desoldering station it might be tough, given that GPU boards have multiple layers with large power planes and can sink lots and lots of heat.

Thank you so so much , i have emailed their offices to see if its possible to get the exact replacement or if they can assist me in finding a "similare" replacement for the broken part

I have done extensive testing on all the other parts of the board and they all give off the right values according to the tests conducted so fingers crossed that i can get this sorted and my 2nd cousin can get a cheap upgrade to their gtx 580 they are currently using ;)

yet again Thank you so so so much

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1 hour ago, Unimportant said:

The numbers underneath could mean various manufacturer specific things such as production dates, batch numbers, etc...

But the actual part is a GSTek GS7133 3A linear low dropout voltage regulator

It's output voltage is set by a resistive divider network in the feedback and thus depends on the application.

 

Some thoughts:

  • The part is not necessarily broken. Some other defect in the circuitry on the device's output might be broken and pulling the output down. Most integrated voltage regulators like this have overcurrent and overtemperature protection so they don't break easily - you might want to do a bit more testing first.
  • The package is a PSOP8, the P stands for "power", a variant on the SO8 package with a metal pad on the bottom which allows it to dissipate more power (https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1oc2uKXXXXXafaXXXq6xXFXXXE/5-PCS-G57133-GS7133-SOP8-baru.jpg ). You will need a hot air desoldering station to remove it from the board, a plain soldering iron won't work. Even with a proper hot air desoldering station it might be tough, given that GPU boards have multiple layers with large power planes and can sink lots and lots of heat.

Oh and i forgot to link the dude´s video ;)
 


Found this guy really helpfull for "learning" what to look for in a "dead" gpu ;)

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This thread can now be closed i have found the Chip and ordered them ;)

Thank you all for your input it was all valuable information and suggestions ;)

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@Kenjo  like Unimportant said, you should really test the components around that part or connected to the output of that part. Linear regulators rarely fail but the behavior you see if often noticed when something's shorted at the output or using too much current. Something as simple as a cracked ceramic capacitor could cause that issue.

 

Chip could also not output 1.8v if there's not enough stable voltage at its input - it would need at least around 2v to operate properly ... if there's a switching regulator or something feeding multiple things including your regulator and one of those things is shorted, then your regulator may not get the 2v+ it needs to work, so you end up with the conclusion that the regulator's bad.

 

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