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Ryzen 7 2700 and an assortment of issues - Seeking your expertise

Hi All,

 

As a newbie (I've actually never used forums that much), I come to all of you with a request for enlightenment.

 

Four weeks ago I have upgraded from my good old trustworthy i5-4670 to a Ryzen 7 2700, along with a MSI B350 TOMAHAWK and 16GB (2x 8GB) of Crucial Ballistix SPORT DDR4 2400Mhz.

I know that I could have invested a little bit more on the memory as 2400 MHz for today's standards, and gaming (which is my main activity), is quite off, however, the budget was somehow limited and that's all I could afford for now.

 

The whole rig is:

AMD Ryzen 7 2700

MSI B350 TOMAHAWK

16GB Crucial Ballistix SPORT DDR4 2400MHz

ASUS EXPEDITION GTX 1060 6GB

Samsung 850EVO 250GB SSD

Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB HDD

Seagate Firecuda 2TB SSHD

DVD-RW drive

Corsair VS550 PSU

 

Everything seems to be working fine... except two issues annoying issues I am trying to figure out...

 

1. CPU doesn't turbo past 3.4 GHz

So, I have ran several synthetic benchmarks (Cinebench, Furmark) as well as some AAA titles (Rise of the Tomb Raider, Doom) but also less intensive ones like Heroes of the Storm and PUBG.

Regardless of that, not even a single core goes above 3.479 GHz.

I've tried AIDA64 and ran a stress test of CPU for 2 hours and max I got in one session was 3.5 something GHz, however, those 3.5 never happened again even in similar testing conditions.

 

2. Rise of the Tomb Raider crashes my Display Driver and dumps a BSOD of BAD_POOL_CALLER

This is pretty random... i can play 45 minutes without any issues, and then on another session after 30 minutes it crashes.

One thing I have noticed though, disabling the XMP profile (basically underclocking them to 2100Mhz) reduces the frequency or even eliminates this problem (can't really say because last time I tried RotTR with XMP disabled, I played for 2 hours without interruptions).

Note also that, I can play several other games with XMP enabled and without any crashes (tested with Overwatch, PUBG, Heroes of the Storm and Doom). This only happens with RotTR

 

What kind of troubleshooting have I attempted?

Well, regarding issue 1, I read around LTT forums that somehow changing the Minimum Processor State to 20%, actually helped someone here to fix that issue. However, that was with a 1700X and not a 2700.

Either way, I did it, didn't work.

Then I read on a forum that, maybe I should just change to the Ryzen Balanced Power plan.

This ended up not working either because despite my attempts to change to Ryzen Balanced, it automatically changes to High Performance. Not sure why it does that. All solutions I could Google for that, did not work.

I've checked endless power management settings on the BIOS (nothing that I could find relevant there)...

On issue 2, I have performed AIDA64 stress tests on RAM for over 2 hours, no crashes or unusual behavior and, I have ran memtest86, 4 passes with all tests enabled, 100% success, no problems.

 

In conclusion, regarding these 2 issues, and with the amount of time and research spent, I am inclined either to a weak PSU for this system , or... maybe the RAM modules?

 

Apologies all for the length of this dissertation but unfortunately I can't make it any shorter.

Thanks in advance for the time reading this and every little bit of help is appreciated.

 

 

 

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Did you reinstall the OS?

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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The PSU isn't exactly the greatest but I'm leaning towards a faulty ram module.

 

I went from a 4670k to a R7 1700 and I've never reinstalled windows, no problems for me and I get 1722 Cinebench score, not missing out on any performance.

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1 minute ago, Jurrunio said:

Did you reinstall the OS?

Yes I did. It wasn't actually needed because everything was working fine, but still I did it anyways.

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Just now, Frenky said:

The PSU isn't exactly the greatest but I'm leaning towards a faulty ram module.

 

I went from a 4670k to a R7 1700 and I've never reinstalled windows, no problems for me and I get 1722 Cinebench score, not missing out on any performance. 

At start I thought about a faulty memory module... however, after running memtest86 for over 6 hours to do all the 4 passes on all 13 (I think) tests and coming out clean, I kind moved away from that option.

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1 minute ago, DjAlmada said:

Yes I did. It wasn't actually needed because everything was working fine, but still I did it anyways.

MSI B350 and X370 board suck massively, so VRM overheating will be the next issue to look into. HWinfo should show the VRM thermistor data.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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1 minute ago, Jurrunio said:

MSI B350 and X370 board suck massively, so VRM overheating will be the next issue to look into. HWinfo should show the VRM thermistor data.

Well as long as I can prove that is a problem, I can return it under warranty and buy a better one... however, I need to prove this :)

 

Where exactly on the screenshot are the VRM temps displayed?

Additionally, what temperature ranges should I consider excessive on the VRMs?

 

I am about to play some games now and I want to monitor it.

 

HWinfoB350.PNG

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23 minutes ago, DjAlmada said:

Hi All,

 

As a newbie (I've actually never used forums that much), I come to all of you with a request for enlightenment.

 

Four weeks ago I have upgraded from my good old trustworthy i5-4670 to a Ryzen 7 2700, along with a MSI B350 TOMAHAWK and 16GB (2x 8GB) of Crucial Ballistix SPORT DDR4 2400Mhz.

I know that I could have invested a little bit more on the memory as 2400 MHz for today's standards, and gaming (which is my main activity), is quite off, however, the budget was somehow limited and that's all I could afford for now.

 

The whole rig is:

AMD Ryzen 7 2700

MSI B350 TOMAHAWK

16GB Crucial Ballistix SPORT DDR4 2400MHz

ASUS EXPEDITION GTX 1060 6GB

Samsung 850EVO 250GB SSD

Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB HDD

Seagate Firecuda 2TB SSHD

DVD-RW drive

Corsair VS550 PSU

 

Everything seems to be working fine... except two issues annoying issues I am trying to figure out...

 

1. CPU doesn't turbo past 3.4 GHz

So, I have ran several synthetic benchmarks (Cinebench, Furmark) as well as some AAA titles (Rise of the Tomb Raider, Doom) but also less intensive ones like Heroes of the Storm and PUBG.

Regardless of that, not even a single core goes above 3.479 GHz.

I've tried AIDA64 and ran a stress test of CPU for 2 hours and max I got in one session was 3.5 something GHz, however, those 3.5 never happened again even in similar testing conditions.

 

2. Rise of the Tomb Raider crashes my Display Driver and dumps a BSOD of BAD_POOL_CALLER

This is pretty random... i can play 45 minutes without any issues, and then on another session after 30 minutes it crashes.

One thing I have noticed though, disabling the XMP profile (basically underclocking them to 2100Mhz) reduces the frequency or even eliminates this problem (can't really say because last time I tried RotTR with XMP disabled, I played for 2 hours without interruptions).

Note also that, I can play several other games with XMP enabled and without any crashes (tested with Overwatch, PUBG, Heroes of the Storm and Doom). This only happens with RotTR

 

What kind of troubleshooting have I attempted?

Well, regarding issue 1, I read around LTT forums that somehow changing the Minimum Processor State to 20%, actually helped someone here to fix that issue. However, that was with a 1700X and not a 2700.

Either way, I did it, didn't work.

Then I read on a forum that, maybe I should just change to the Ryzen Balanced Power plan.

This ended up not working either because despite my attempts to change to Ryzen Balanced, it automatically changes to High Performance. Not sure why it does that. All solutions I could Google for that, did not work.

I've checked endless power management settings on the BIOS (nothing that I could find relevant there)...

On issue 2, I have performed AIDA64 stress tests on RAM for over 2 hours, no crashes or unusual behavior and, I have ran memtest86, 4 passes with all tests enabled, 100% success, no problems.

 

In conclusion, regarding these 2 issues, and with the amount of time and research spent, I am inclined either to a weak PSU for this system , or... maybe the RAM modules?

 

Apologies all for the length of this dissertation but unfortunately I can't make it any shorter.

Thanks in advance for the time reading this and every little bit of help is appreciated.

 

 

 

1. As far as I can remember, base is 3.2 Ghz on the 2700. I've heard Ryzen boosts based on thermals like a GPU, I mean, it's advertised as such with their SenseMi stuff. So maybe your cooling isn't at a level where it'll boost higher? Or maybe it's a Windows power setting thing, since WP settings are pretty mysterious imo.

Note on VRMs: If you're running the 2700 stock it should be fine, heat becomes a problem at 4 Ghz+ however.

2. I bought Ryzen when it launched, it had tonnes of memory problems and it took me weeks to get the memory working properly (I ended up going through 3 pairs of memory and ended up with Ballistix Sport). This problem sounds similar to the problems I faced back then, keep the BIOS updated, see if you can get it to work with different DIMM slots. Failing that consider getting a newer 400 series mobo, I heard those fair better.

 

Other thoughts: I don't think it's a PSU problem, since you have plenty of headroom with a 550w PSU. While the VS series aren't of the highest quality, I doubt they're incapable of providing their advertised wattages.

 

The help I can offer is limited, but I can throw you some ideas at least.

REMILIA Mk.IIIE CPU: Ryzen 9 3900X, Cooler: Arctic Freezer II 240 (Noctua NT-H2), RAM: 4x 8Gb sticks of Patriot Viper Steel Series 3600 CL17, Mobo: AsRock X570 Taichi, GPU: Inno3D RTX 3080 iChill x4 10G, Storage: 1TB Intel 670p NVME SSD boot drive, a few 1TB and 512gb SATA/NVME SSDs for game storage, 6 hard drives 1-4 TB, PSU: Corsair RM750 MY2019, Case: Cooler Master Mastercase 5 MC500 (with add-ons, Noctua NF-A14 and Arctic P14 fans), PCIE Cards: Cheap Chinese Marvell 88SE9215 4 port SATA card, Sonnet Allegro USB3.2 Card Monitors: ViewSonic Elite XG270QC (165hz, 1ms MPRT, 1440p, VA, Freesync PP, pneumatic stand), Hp Z27n (IPS, 60hz, 1440p, 8Ms), iiyama G2530HSU-B (75Hz, Freesync, one in landscape, one in Portrait, all on pneumatic monitor stands).

 

Mic: iSK UPM-1 USB XLR interface with Neewer NW700, Audio: Sabaj A3 160W DAC/AMP + Wharfdale Diamond 220 + Mission MS6 Sub, ifi Zen DAC v2 + ifi Zen CAN, Littledot Mk.II (w/ Soviet Power tubes and British Mulard M8100s/Soviet Voshkod 6JP-EV/ American General Electric JAN 5654W dependent on mood), Sendy Aiva (Primary), Beyer Dynamic DT990 250ohm Black Special Edition, Audeze EL-8 Open Back, Sennheiser HD598SE (modified to be a headset, snapped headband held together with gorilla tape), Mouse: SteelSeries Rival 600, Keyboard: Glorious GMMK ISO with Mengmoda MMD Tactile (main) and Kailh Box Navy (Function keys), Tribosys 3203 brush lubed, Taihao Green forest caps.

 

KOAKUMA Mk.IB (24/7 Folding Slave PC made of spare parts): CPU: Core i7 4770, Cooler: Some small antex cooler with 80mm fan, RAM: 2x 4Gb Sticks of 2400Mhz DDR3, Mobo: Asus H81i-Plus, GPU: R9 390 Nitro+ (barely fits in case), Storage: 256gb Korean no-name SATA SSD, PSU: Corsair CX550 (Gray label), Case: Antec ISK600 ITX case. [Given away to friend]

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6 minutes ago, DjAlmada said:

Well as long as I can prove that is a problem, I can return it under warranty and buy a better one... however, I need to prove this :)

 

Where exactly on the screenshot are the VRM temps displayed?

Additionally, what temperature ranges should I consider excessive on the VRMs?

 

I am about to play some games now and I want to monitor it.

 

HWinfoB350.PNG

It should be called VRM or Mosfet. Throttle point shoule be around 110C, but anything past 90C is pretty bad for a CPU running at stock.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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1 minute ago, ibabyslapper said:

1. As far as I can remember, base is 3.2 Ghz on the 2700. I've heard Ryzen boosts based on thermals like a GPU, I mean, it's advertised as such with their SenseMi stuff. So maybe your cooling isn't at a level where it'll boost higher? Or maybe it's a Windows power setting thing, since WP settings are pretty mysterious imo.

Note on VRMs: If you're running the 2700 stock it should be fine, heat becomes a problem at 4 Ghz+ however.

2. I bought Ryzen when it launched, it had tonnes of memory problems and it took me weeks to get the memory working properly (I ended up going through 3 pairs of memory and ended up with Ballistix Sport). This problem sounds similar to the problems I faced back then, keep the BIOS updated, see if you can get it to work with different DIMM slots. Failing that consider getting a newer 400 series mobo, I heard those fair better.

 

Other thoughts: I don't think it's a PSU problem, since you have plenty of headroom with a 550w PSU.

 

The help I can offer is limited, but I can throw you some ideas at least.

Thanks for your reply.

 

Its being cooled by the Wraith Spire that came with the CPU. Running stock, no OC at all.

As for thermals, yesterday I was playing Doom running all Maxed out at 1080p and the CPU max temp was 67c (152.6 F). I don't think this is that high that would not allow it to turbo.

As for the Windows Power Settings, I already took a look at it as I described above, are there any other settings I could mess with?

 

I will give it a go in trying different DIMM slots and see what happens.

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4 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

It should be called VRM or Mosfet. Throttle point shoule be around 110C, but anything past 90C is pretty bad for a CPU running at stock.

I don't think this mainboard has sensors for the VRMs :(

Can't find it anywhere matching that description.

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Just now, DjAlmada said:

I don't think this mainboard has sensors for the VRMs :(

Can't find it anywhere matching that description.

 

Open the case and keep a box fan blowing on the VRM's (the whole case lol most fans anyhow) play games, simulate the causation and rule out heat (or not) :)

Workstation Laptop: Dell Precision 7540, Xeon E-2276M, 32gb DDR4, Quadro T2000 GPU, 4k display

Wifes Rig: ASRock B550m Riptide, Ryzen 5 5600X, Sapphire Nitro+ RX 6700 XT, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz V-Color Skywalker RAM, ARESGAME AGS 850w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750, 500gb Crucial m.2, DIYPC MA01-G case

My Rig: ASRock B450m Pro4, Ryzen 5 3600, ARESGAME River 5 CPU cooler, EVGA RTX 2060 KO, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz TeamGroup T-Force RAM, ARESGAME AGV750w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750 NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 3tb Hitachi 7200 RPM HDD, Fractal Design Focus G Mini custom painted.  

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 video card benchmark result - AMD Ryzen 5 3600,ASRock B450M Pro4 (3dmark.com)

Daughter 1 Rig: ASrock B450 Pro4, Ryzen 7 1700 @ 4.2ghz all core 1.4vCore, AMD R9 Fury X w/ Swiftech KOMODO waterblock, Custom Loop 2x240mm + 1x120mm radiators in push/pull 16gb (2x8) Patriot Viper CL14 2666mhz RAM, Corsair HX850 PSU, 250gb Samsun 960 EVO NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 500gb Samsung 840 EVO SSD, 512GB TeamGroup MP30 M.2 SATA III SSD, SuperTalent 512gb SATA III SSD, CoolerMaster HAF XM Case. 

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/37004594?

Daughter 2 Rig: ASUS B350-PRIME ATX, Ryzen 7 1700, Sapphire Nitro+ R9 Fury Tri-X, 16gb (2x8) 3200mhz V-Color Skywalker, ANTEC Earthwatts 750w PSU, MasterLiquid Lite 120 AIO cooler in Push/Pull config as rear exhaust, 250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD, Patriot Burst 240gb SSD, Cougar MX330-X Case

 

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3 minutes ago, Tristerin said:

 

Open the case and keep a box fan blowing on the VRM's (the whole case lol most fans anyhow) play games, simulate the causation and rule out heat (or not) :)

Done... My case is a Zalman Z1 with a detachable top panel that can be used to put a radiator.

Since I don't have one, I've attached an 80mm fan in there and removed the top panel.

 

I will test with it open and report back.

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Just now, DjAlmada said:

Done... My case is a Zalman Z1 with a detachable top panel that can be used to put a radiator.

Since I don't have one, I've attached an 80mm fan in there and removed the top panel.

 

I will test with it open and report back.

Not just open, but open the side panel and blow cool air on it.  This hillbilly rigging doesn't look good but will eliminate heat as an issue where you cannot monitor it.

 

Put your AIO CPU cooler as an exhaust in this top port to ensure you are pulling hot air away from the mainboard and out of the system as much as possible when you do decide to install.

 

If it is your VRM's than reducing the heat overall in the case through the AIO (not spinning hot air inside a hot box) and adding more intake and exhaust should easily fix it. 

Workstation Laptop: Dell Precision 7540, Xeon E-2276M, 32gb DDR4, Quadro T2000 GPU, 4k display

Wifes Rig: ASRock B550m Riptide, Ryzen 5 5600X, Sapphire Nitro+ RX 6700 XT, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz V-Color Skywalker RAM, ARESGAME AGS 850w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750, 500gb Crucial m.2, DIYPC MA01-G case

My Rig: ASRock B450m Pro4, Ryzen 5 3600, ARESGAME River 5 CPU cooler, EVGA RTX 2060 KO, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz TeamGroup T-Force RAM, ARESGAME AGV750w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750 NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 3tb Hitachi 7200 RPM HDD, Fractal Design Focus G Mini custom painted.  

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 video card benchmark result - AMD Ryzen 5 3600,ASRock B450M Pro4 (3dmark.com)

Daughter 1 Rig: ASrock B450 Pro4, Ryzen 7 1700 @ 4.2ghz all core 1.4vCore, AMD R9 Fury X w/ Swiftech KOMODO waterblock, Custom Loop 2x240mm + 1x120mm radiators in push/pull 16gb (2x8) Patriot Viper CL14 2666mhz RAM, Corsair HX850 PSU, 250gb Samsun 960 EVO NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 500gb Samsung 840 EVO SSD, 512GB TeamGroup MP30 M.2 SATA III SSD, SuperTalent 512gb SATA III SSD, CoolerMaster HAF XM Case. 

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/37004594?

Daughter 2 Rig: ASUS B350-PRIME ATX, Ryzen 7 1700, Sapphire Nitro+ R9 Fury Tri-X, 16gb (2x8) 3200mhz V-Color Skywalker, ANTEC Earthwatts 750w PSU, MasterLiquid Lite 120 AIO cooler in Push/Pull config as rear exhaust, 250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD, Patriot Burst 240gb SSD, Cougar MX330-X Case

 

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1 minute ago, Tristerin said:

Not just open, but open the side panel and blow cool air on it.  This hillbilly rigging doesn't look good but will eliminate heat as an issue where you cannot monitor it.

 

Put your AIO CPU cooler as an exhaust in this top port to ensure you are pulling hot air away from the mainboard and out of the system as much as possible when you do decide to install.

 

If it is your VRM's than reducing the heat overall in the case through the AIO (not spinning hot air inside a hot box) and adding more intake and exhaust should easily fix it. 

Ok, I will open the side panel and just use a regular fan to blow air on it.

 

However, if that actually solves the problem, maybe I'd be better buying a bigger/better case, with bigger fans that could help on the heat flow problem?

Considering I want to run stock clocks, investing 150+ USD on an AIO Liquid Cooling solution seems... overkill :D

 

Either way, let me test and get back to all of you.

 

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1 minute ago, DjAlmada said:

Ok, I will open the side panel and just use a regular fan to blow air on it.

 

However, if that actually solves the problem, maybe I'd be better buying a bigger/better case, with bigger fans that could help on the heat flow problem?

Considering I want to run stock clocks, investing 150+ USD on an AIO Liquid Cooling solution seems... overkill :D

 

Either way, let me test and get back to all of you.

 

You can get a good 240mm AIO for under $100, and more like $70 if you catch it on sale.  I buy 120mm AIO's if they hit $25 even if I don't need it lol (Black Friday/Cyber Monday is coming up!)

 

If its your VRM's overheating than its the HOT air not being properly exhausted, so if you are set on not buying an AIO - I would add as many exhaust fans and intake fans as possible in your current case where it allows (sounds like you can add one or two up top as exhaust right now).  You can even zip tie fans over the VRM's.  Be creative before spending a ton! 

Workstation Laptop: Dell Precision 7540, Xeon E-2276M, 32gb DDR4, Quadro T2000 GPU, 4k display

Wifes Rig: ASRock B550m Riptide, Ryzen 5 5600X, Sapphire Nitro+ RX 6700 XT, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz V-Color Skywalker RAM, ARESGAME AGS 850w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750, 500gb Crucial m.2, DIYPC MA01-G case

My Rig: ASRock B450m Pro4, Ryzen 5 3600, ARESGAME River 5 CPU cooler, EVGA RTX 2060 KO, 16gb (2x8) 3600mhz TeamGroup T-Force RAM, ARESGAME AGV750w PSU, 1tb WD Black SN750 NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 3tb Hitachi 7200 RPM HDD, Fractal Design Focus G Mini custom painted.  

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 video card benchmark result - AMD Ryzen 5 3600,ASRock B450M Pro4 (3dmark.com)

Daughter 1 Rig: ASrock B450 Pro4, Ryzen 7 1700 @ 4.2ghz all core 1.4vCore, AMD R9 Fury X w/ Swiftech KOMODO waterblock, Custom Loop 2x240mm + 1x120mm radiators in push/pull 16gb (2x8) Patriot Viper CL14 2666mhz RAM, Corsair HX850 PSU, 250gb Samsun 960 EVO NVMe Win 10 boot drive, 500gb Samsung 840 EVO SSD, 512GB TeamGroup MP30 M.2 SATA III SSD, SuperTalent 512gb SATA III SSD, CoolerMaster HAF XM Case. 

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/37004594?

Daughter 2 Rig: ASUS B350-PRIME ATX, Ryzen 7 1700, Sapphire Nitro+ R9 Fury Tri-X, 16gb (2x8) 3200mhz V-Color Skywalker, ANTEC Earthwatts 750w PSU, MasterLiquid Lite 120 AIO cooler in Push/Pull config as rear exhaust, 250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD, Patriot Burst 240gb SSD, Cougar MX330-X Case

 

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Install Ryzen Master and I am pretty sure you have the same problem as I have with the EDC CPU going up to 100% at about 3.400GHz on all cores using performance boost. It will get a little better if you use the AMD Ryzen Balanced power scheme and change the minimum processor voltage down to like 5%. Default on mine was 90% and after I changed it the performance boost is working even if it is with lower clock speeds. Manually overclocking it I can get it up to 3.900GHz without increasing the voltage and still using the wraith cooler on all cores. Trying to resolve the EDC CPU thing though.

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9 minutes ago, LinusOnLine said:

Install Ryzen Master and I am pretty sure you have the same problem as I have with the EDC CPU going up to 100% at about 3.400GHz on all cores using performance boost. It will get a little better if you use the AMD Ryzen Balanced power scheme and change the minimum processor voltage down to like 5%. Default on mine was 90% and after I changed it the performance boost is working even if it is with lower clock speeds. Manually overclocking it I can get it up to 3.900GHz without increasing the voltage and still using the wraith cooler on all cores. Trying to resolve the EDC CPU thing though.

I totally forgot to mention that but yes... I already have Ryzen Master installed and I have also noticed the EDC CPU at 99%/100% at all times.

Unfortunately, As I mentioned earlier I cannot change to the Ryzen Balanced power plan since it doesn't allow me.

I change it but after 1 second it goes back to Windows premade power plan of High Performance.

Worse than that, with all the messing on Power plans I ended up deleting the Ryzen Balanced.

However, on the High Performance plan I can manually change the Minimum Processor State to 5%.

 

I will do 2 things, I will reinstall Ryzen Master and see if it creates the Ryzen Balanced plan again and try to switch to it.

If that does not work, I will change the minimum processor state to 5% on the Windows High Performance plan.


Let me test and see how it works.

 

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3 minutes ago, DjAlmada said:

However, on the High Performance plan I can manually change the Minimum Processor State to 5%.

 

I will do 2 things, I will reinstall Ryzen Master and see if it creates the Ryzen Balanced plan again and try to switch to it.

If that does not work, I will change the minimum processor state to 5% on the Windows High Performance plan.


Let me test and see how it works.

 



Also make sure you have the latest chipset from AMD. That helped me a bit. It should work to change whatever power plan really. On the other hand it did get a bit better for me but it is still an issue. A lot of people are having these problems so hopefully someone really smart will come up with a solution :)

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1 hour ago, DjAlmada said:

I totally forgot to mention that but yes... I already have Ryzen Master installed and I have also noticed the EDC CPU at 99%/100% at all times.

Unfortunately, As I mentioned earlier I cannot change to the Ryzen Balanced power plan since it doesn't allow me.

I change it but after 1 second it goes back to Windows premade power plan of High Performance.

Worse than that, with all the messing on Power plans I ended up deleting the Ryzen Balanced.

However, on the High Performance plan I can manually change the Minimum Processor State to 5%.

 

I will do 2 things, I will reinstall Ryzen Master and see if it creates the Ryzen Balanced plan again and try to switch to it.

If that does not work, I will change the minimum processor state to 5% on the Windows High Performance plan.


Let me test and see how it works.

 

You can change Minimum Processor State to anything under 45%.  I use 20%.  You don't need any particular plan as long as the Minimum Processor State is set accordingly.  I use the Ultimate Performance Plan.  

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1 hour ago, LinusOnLine said:



Also make sure you have the latest chipset from AMD. That helped me a bit. It should work to change whatever power plan really. On the other hand it did get a bit better for me but it is still an issue. A lot of people are having these problems so hopefully someone really smart will come up with a solution :)

 

7 minutes ago, nick name said:

You can change Minimum Processor State to anything under 45%.  I use 20%.  You don't need any particular plan as long as the Minimum Processor State is set accordingly.  I use the Ultimate Performance Plan.  

Thanks guys. Indeed now I see some of the cores turboing up to 4.1 Ghz and the EDC has reduced to 70-80% on idle.

 

I need to check on the BSODs for RotTR now :)

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2 minutes ago, DjAlmada said:

 

Thanks guys. Indeed now I see some of the cores turboing up to 4.1 Ghz and the EDC has reduced to 70-80% on idle.

 

I need to check on the BSODs for RotTR now :)

Start by adding just a little more DRAM  voltage.  Set it to 1.36v or 1.37v.  

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It's normal that all cores aren't boosting.  You will only see 4.1 on one or two cores and that is if the other cores are not under heavy load.  

 

As for that motherboard, I just set that up for my brother in law with a 1700.  In the BIOS it has a "game mode" in top left that will boost all cores by 200mhz.  It's like a lazy way to OC a bit.  Like I wouldn't go for any crazy over clocks on that board anyways but that game mode might be worth checking out.  Of course check thermals after you enable to be sure all is good but that stock cooler should be fine for that.  The 1700 saw almost no difference in temls anyways. 

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32 minutes ago, nick name said:

Start by adding just a little more DRAM  voltage.  Set it to 1.36v or 1.37v.  

Will do :) Thanks for the tip.

 

26 minutes ago, Reznik said:

It's normal that all cores aren't boosting.  You will only see 4.1 on one or two cores and that is if the other cores are not under heavy load.  

 

As for that motherboard, I just set that up for my brother in law with a 1700.  In the BIOS it has a "game mode" in top left that will boost all cores by 200mhz.  It's like a lazy way to OC a bit.  Like I wouldn't go for any crazy over clocks on that board anyways but that game mode might be worth checking out.  Of course check thermals after you enable to be sure all is good but that stock cooler should be fine for that.  The 1700 saw almost no difference in temls anyways. 

I was aware that not all cores would turbo up... but its better to see some of them reaching 4.1 GHz rather than having stable 3.3/3.4 at all times....

I already tried that gaming mode but... man it just revs up the fans to a point that gets like... annoying :)

 

Either way, my intention was never OC but thanks anyways :)

 

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3 hours ago, ibabyslapper said:

1. As far as I can remember, base is 3.2 Ghz on the 2700. I've heard Ryzen boosts based on thermals like a GPU, I mean, it's advertised as such with their SenseMi stuff. So maybe your cooling isn't at a level where it'll boost higher? Or maybe it's a Windows power setting thing, since WP settings are pretty mysterious imo.

Note on VRMs: If you're running the 2700 stock it should be fine, heat becomes a problem at 4 Ghz+ however.

2. I bought Ryzen when it launched, it had tonnes of memory problems and it took me weeks to get the memory working properly (I ended up going through 3 pairs of memory and ended up with Ballistix Sport). This problem sounds similar to the problems I faced back then, keep the BIOS updated, see if you can get it to work with different DIMM slots. Failing that consider getting a newer 400 series mobo, I heard those fair better.

 

Other thoughts: I don't think it's a PSU problem, since you have plenty of headroom with a 550w PSU. While the VS series aren't of the highest quality, I doubt they're incapable of providing their advertised wattages.

 

The help I can offer is limited, but I can throw you some ideas at least.

Ryzen 2 is fine with RAM, I'm running an R7 2700X with 3200MHz RAM and just slapped in a random kit of Corsair Vengeance RGB and enabled the XMP profile. With a 280mm AIO it runs fine OCed to 4GHz, and will boost to 4.1GHz or so on all cores if I leave it stock (planning on running it at 4.2GHz once I get my new mobo though). Always BIOS update though, they're usually fixing bugs and such.

 

You should be able to install the AMD/mobo drivers (or is it Ryzen Master), one of those includes a balanced power plan built for Ryzen so windows doesn't bork your PC. I usually just set it to high performance though so maybe try that.

 

As far as XMP messing with games goes, I've played ROTTR for hours on my system with no problems, but No Man's Sky kept crashing with XMP on until they fixed that in an update. You could try just manually entering the same settings XMP runs the RAM at and see if that makes a difference.

 

Also, your VRMs shouldn't be a problem so long as they don't get too hot, the Tomahawk boards are pretty much the only good Ryzen boards MSI makes AFAIK, all their other ones have had pretty crappy VRMs.

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