Is this PSU good?

[Yo Whats Up]

Cooler Master MasterWatt 550W Bronze (MPX-5501-AMAAB)

 

According to the psu tier list, it's tier 2 cuz it's neither Lite nor Maker, but I wanted to be 100% sure. Right now it's 21% more expensive than non-modular corsair CX450, and 11% more expensive than semi-modular corsair CX450M, but it's tier 2 compared to tier 4. For the same price as the master watt, I can get Deepcool DQ550ST 550W Gold, which is tier 3 but has gold efficiency, it's semi-modular, or for 28% more I can get the Seasonic FOCUS Plus SSR-550FX GOLD, which one do you think is worth it? Also, what's the difference between let's say a Tier 1 and a Tier 2 PSU? The way I understand it, as long as they're working properly and not causing damage, they should be all equally good right?

 

[Dankk]

Well, this is all after you added your total hardware wattage together? If so then I don't see a problem with going with any of the 3. 

[Yo Whats Up]

2 minutes ago, Dankk said:

If so then I don't see a problem with going with any of the 3. 

I don't either, that's why I'm asking, what's the difference 

[Dankk]

7 minutes ago, Yo Whats Up said:

I don't either, that's why I'm asking, what's the difference 

you already stated the differences

[LienusLateTips]

The CX550M is actually Tier 2 - bumped to Tier 3 thanks to the fan

 

You are looking at the old CX. 

 

I'd just get whatevers cheaper, CX550M, Deepcool, or SeaSonic. Consider getting 450W units as it's unlikely you'll need more than that.

[LienusLateTips]

Just now, Dankk said:

you already stated the differences

No, not exactly.

 

CX450M/550M has a somewhat ok fan, MasterWatt has a 85C primary side cap (which really doesn't matter), Deepcool has mediocre electrical performance from the price, and Focus Plus Gold has a loud fan.

[Yo Whats Up]

16 minutes ago, JDE said:

CX450M/550M has a somewhat ok fan

What would that mean? Is it loud? Not enough performance (cfm)?

 

Quote

MasterWatt has a 85C primary side cap (which really doesn't matter)

No idea what that means

 

Quote

Deepcool has mediocre electrical performance from the price

What does that mean again? Like, what negatives might this mediocre electrical performance cause?

 

Quote

Focus Plus Gold has a loud fan

How loud? Up to like 15-20 dbA is fine for me, I can't even hear my current PSU's fan at all (Cooler Master Thunder 600W), I didn't even know PSUs had fans 

I'm actually not even sure if the fan is working at all, I've never checked, but I certainly can't hear anything (when I turn off my case fans)

18 minutes ago, JDE said:

I'd just get whatevers cheaper, CX550M, Deepcool, or SeaSonic. Consider getting 450W units as it's unlikely you'll need more than that.

What about the Masterwatt? And what does "need" mean? Like, in what scenario will I need more than "that"? How do you even know what I need

 

And btw if 450W is enough, do you think Seasonic ECO-430W Bronze (SSR-430ST) is good enough? It's BY FAR the cheapest PSU out of all the ones listed above, it's less than half the price (about 45%) of the Seasonic Focus Gold 550W, for comparison

[Guest]

12 hours ago, Yo Whats Up said:

What would that mean?

 

No idea what that means 

 

What does that mean again?

 

Sounds like you need to read some PSU reviews.

 

There's more to a PSU than "magic box that converts AC to DC".

 

Start here:  http://www.jonnyguru.com

 

[LienusLateTips]

12 hours ago, Yo Whats Up said:

What would that mean? Is it loud? Not enough performance (cfm)?

It's a bit loud. I can hear it (I have one), but certainly pretty quiet.

12 hours ago, Yo Whats Up said:

No idea what that means r comparison

Capacitor only up to 85 C

12 hours ago, Yo Whats Up said:

What does that mean again? Like, what negatives might this mediocre electrical performance cause?

Shortened lifespan of components, reduced OC potential, and if it's really really bad (which this isn't) fry your parts

12 hours ago, Yo Whats Up said:

And btw if 450W is enough, do you think Seasonic ECO-430W Bronze (SSR-430ST) is good enough? It's BY FAR the cheapest PSU out of all the ones listed above, it's less than half the price (about 45%) of the Seasonic Focus Gold 550W, for comparison

that thing is a old group reg unit, read this

afaik they are based on the same thing so it should apply

 

TLDR just get MasterWatt 550, CX450M or Pure Power 10

[STRMfrmXMN]

13 hours ago, Yo Whats Up said:

 

Cooler Master MasterWatt 550W Bronze (MPX-5501-AMAAB)

 

According to the psu tier list, it's tier 2 cuz it's neither Lite nor Maker, but I wanted to be 100% sure. Right now it's 21% more expensive than non-modular corsair CX450, and 11% more expensive than semi-modular corsair CX450M, but it's tier 2 compared to tier 4. For the same price as the master watt, I can get Deepcool DQ550ST 550W Gold, which is tier 3 but has gold efficiency, it's semi-modular, or for 28% more I can get the Seasonic FOCUS Plus SSR-550FX GOLD, which one do you think is worth it? Also, what's the difference between let's say a Tier 1 and a Tier 2 PSU? The way I understand it, as long as they're working properly and not causing damage, they should be all equally good right?

 

It is a good PSU, yes. What are your system specs?

[breixobaloca]

Semi-passive mode is the only "big" downside of this unit. Without that garbage it would be great. Could you send us a link to the store where you will buy the unit and the max. you can pay?

[Yo Whats Up]

On 4/29/2018 at 8:14 PM, STRMfrmXMN said:

What are your system specs?

i7 4770k@4.3ghz 1.25V and Kfa2 gtx 1060 3gb OC, not EX, not White version

 

On 4/30/2018 at 12:55 AM, breixobaloca said:

Could you send us a link to the store where you will buy the unit and the max. you can pay?

It's not about max, it's about the best value for my money and how much can I get away with for the time being

 

But if you're really curious (I've actually already done this before in another thread): https://www.pazaruvaj.com/zahranvawi-blokove-c3158/?orderby=1

Last time they recommended me the cx450 as the cheapest PSU that's usable, but I want to re-look at my options, I always min-max everything

 

Btw, I just got my gtx 1060, but obviously I still haven't bought a PSU, now the question is, is it ok to use my 1060 with my current PSU until I buy a new one? Might take a week or even more for shipping. Current PSU is Cooler Master Thunder 600W. Everyone says it's horrible. But is it so horrible that I literally can't even plug in my gpu for the time being? No component on my system has any warranty, except maybe the ram cuz of 5 years warranty I think

[STRMfrmXMN]

2 hours ago, Yo Whats Up said:

i7 4770k@4.3ghz 1.25V and Kfa2 gtx 1060 3gb OC, not EX, not White version

The Masterwatt is perfect for that.

 

Also, are you sure you can't get more than 4.3 GHz out of your 4770K at 1.25V? Is your load-line calibration fairly conservative? You should be able to hit 4.5+ at voltage that high on that chip.

 

Anyways, no, I would not power your system with the Thunder for extended period of time. It might work, but it's a pretty bad unit and if it's out of its warranty period then I wouldn't load your system up all the way for several hours on it (I.E. play video games).

[Yo Whats Up]

2 hours ago, STRMfrmXMN said:

The Masterwatt is perfect for that.

Why do you think so? What makes it perfect? What doesn't make the other PSUs perfect?

 

Quote

Also, are you sure you can't get more than 4.3 GHz out of your 4770K at 1.25V? Is your load-line calibration fairly conservative? You should be able to hit 4.5+ at voltage that high on that chip.

According to this guide http://www.overclock.net/t/1411077/haswell-overclocking-guide-with-statistics LLC only helps when Input Voltage / Vrin / Vccin is causing problems, and that's not the case for me, changing input voltage makes 0 difference in any of my tests, so I don't remember having changed any LLC option, cuz of that, it's most likely on Auto (or w/e the default option is)

 

With core voltage 1.3V and  core 4.4ghz (44 X 100.0 mhz BLCK), uncore/cache at 3.5ghz and uncore/cache voltage to auto, and input voltage to 2.1V (to make sure it isn't the problem), x264 and prime 95 26.6 crash under half an hour, I need about 1.31V for stable 4.4ghz. The real shitty thing is, I have no way to know what my vcore is under load, I asked the HWInfo developer (https://www.hwinfo.com/forum/Thread-HWiNFO-vcore-detection) and he said my motherboard doesn't support Vcore reading, so for all I know it could be anything, but I've heard that it's usually slightly above (like 0.03V) than what is set in BIOS for haswell and old motherboard such as mine. My conclusion is that my chip is hot garbage, and I prefer 4.3ghz with 1.25V than 4.4ghz with 1.31V, my chip is pretty old (4+ years) so I'd rather not push it this high. If it was brand new then np but it's not

 

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Anyways, no, I would not power your system with the Thunder for extended period of time. It might work, but it's a pretty bad unit and if it's out of its warranty period then I wouldn't load your system up all the way for several hours on it (I.E. play video games).

On the other thread, this guy said this when I asked him if cx450 will be enough:

On 3/19/2018 at 1:16 AM, OrionFOTL said:

Your graphics card will use about 150W peak, all the other parts combined will use much less than that. It's only going to be loaded in half, so that leaves a lot of room.

So with my 600W, at least 300 should be "free", right? Then how is my system loaded up all the way (more like, how is my PSU loaded all the way?)

[STRMfrmXMN]

3 hours ago, Yo Whats Up said:

Why do you think so? What makes it perfect? What doesn't make the other PSUs perfect?

Price point, plus the amount of power your system requires, and the amount of heat it produces. Makes perfect sense to put it into that system.

 

3 hours ago, Yo Whats Up said:

According to this guide http://www.overclock.net/t/1411077/haswell-overclocking-guide-with-statistics LLC only helps when Input Voltage / Vrin / Vccin is causing problems, and that's not the case for me, changing input voltage makes 0 difference in any of my tests, so I don't remember having changed any LLC option, cuz of that, it's most likely on Auto (or w/e the default option is)

 

LLC helps with Vdroop which is likely what you're experiencing if you can't get more than 4.3 GHz out of 1.25V on Vcore.

 

For example, if you set the voltage to 1.25V in the BIOS but leave LLC off, then what happens is that, under 100% load, the CPU won't actually demand 1.25V because of a phenomenon called Vdroop. It's meant to preserve power consumption and heat and is a good thing if you don't OC. On the opposite extreme, if you set LLC to the most extreme setting, your CPU will always be at 1.25V no matter the load of the CPU. This helps with stability but demands a lot of heat and power, which is why people like P-state OC.

 

My 1700X system has LLC set to the most extreme setting. My system would drop from 1.425V with it on less extreme settings. Setting my voltage up any higher with a lesser LLC setting would result in the Vdroop being compensated for, but the core voltage being set dangerously high, so high that the silicon degrades on the chip.

 

LLC is very useful. OCing without it is a pain. 

[Yo Whats Up]

Guess Ima try tweaking LLC, see what I can get

19 hours ago, STRMfrmXMN said:

Anyways, no, I would not power your system with the Thunder for extended period of time. It might work, but it's a pretty bad unit and if it's out of its warranty period then I wouldn't load your system up all the way for several hours on it (I.E. play video games).

 

How about gaming for let's say 1 hour at a time, then resting a few hours, then again? Or does it make a difference? Cuz you said "for several hours", as if opposite of an hour

 

What about just plugging my gpu just to check if it works? Cuz I haven't done that either, is that safe?

[STRMfrmXMN]

4 hours ago, Yo Whats Up said:

Guess Ima try tweaking LLC, see what I can get

 

How about gaming for let's say 1 hour at a time, then resting a few hours, then again? Or does it make a difference? Cuz you said "for several hours", as if opposite of an hour

 

What about just plugging my gpu just to check if it works? Cuz I haven't done that either, is that safe?

I was saying this because it's a crappy unit and I don't recommend putting it under any stress. You can test the GPU out of the box and run a quick Furmark test or the like if you want to see if it works.

[breixobaloca]

On 2/5/2018 at 4:18 PM, Yo Whats Up said:

i7 4770k@4.3ghz 1.25V and Kfa2 gtx 1060 3gb OC, not EX, not White version

 

It's not about max, it's about the best value for my money and how much can I get away with for the time being

 

But if you're really curious (I've actually already done this before in another thread): https://www.pazaruvaj.com/zahranvawi-blokove-c3158/?orderby=1

Last time they recommended me the cx450 as the cheapest PSU that's usable, but I want to re-look at my options, I always min-max everything

 

Btw, I just got my gtx 1060, but obviously I still haven't bought a PSU, now the question is, is it ok to use my 1060 with my current PSU until I buy a new one? Might take a week or even more for shipping. Current PSU is Cooler Master Thunder 600W. Everyone says it's horrible. But is it so horrible that I literally can't even plug in my gpu for the time being? No component on my system has any warranty, except maybe the ram cuz of 5 years warranty I think

Well, the Masterwatt is pretty well priced! I would pick this one over the CM,https://www.pazaruvaj.com/zahranvawi-blokove-c3158/be-quiet/pure-power-10-cm-500w-silver-bn277-p358522481/  ,better in quality, but the masterwatt is better in quality-price ratio  

[Yo Whats Up]

2 hours ago, STRMfrmXMN said:

I was saying this because it's a crappy unit and I don't recommend putting it under any stress. You can test the GPU out of the box and run a quick Furmark test or the like if you want to see if it works.

Wait, I just noticed you're the guy who made the PSU tier list! I went to it to check something, then I saw the picture of the pokemon (I forgot its name), then I went back to my post and saw the picture of the pokemon again, and the pictures were the SAME! What an honor to meet you! Now, why isn't my PSU on the tier list  

I thought only ones that are with unknown quality are not written there, but if my PSU is crappy, thus we know how good it is, why isn't it placed in Tier 6 or 7?

 

2 hours ago, breixobaloca said:

Well, the Masterwatt is pretty well priced! I would pick this one over the CM,https://www.pazaruvaj.com/zahranvawi-blokove-c3158/be-quiet/pure-power-10-cm-500w-silver-bn277-p358522481/  ,better in quality, but the masterwatt is better in quality-price ratio  

According to the tier list (heh), pure power 10 is tier 3 but MasterWatt is Tier 2?

[STRMfrmXMN]

38 minutes ago, Yo Whats Up said:

Wait, I just noticed you're the guy who made the PSU tier list! I went to it to check something, then I saw the picture of the pokemon (I forgot its name), then I went back to my post and saw the picture of the pokemon again, and the pictures were the SAME! What an honor to meet you! Now, why isn't my PSU on the tier list  

I thought only ones that are with unknown quality are not written there, but if my PSU is crappy, thus we know how good it is, why isn't it placed in Tier 6 or 7?

 

According to the tier list (heh), pure power 10 is tier 3 but MasterWatt is Tier 2?

Pure Power 10 is stuck there because of a sleeve-bearing fan, just by the way. Outside of that the PP10 is probably better. I just don't like sleeve fans in PSUs because they tend to fail, especially if mounted horizontally (like most PSUs are).

 

I don't think I put the Thunder on the tier list because it's so old, but it's old and group-regulated so I'd put it T6 if I had to.

[breixobaloca]

The Pure Power 10 uses a Rifle bearing fan. Some reviewers say it's a Sleeve Bearing because it shares the model with Sleeve fans found in the Pure Power 9, for example, but this is usually done just for purposes like not repeating certifications. There are both Sleeve and FDB fans from Globe Fan, for example, which have the exact same model, and it's been proven that the ones that say "FDB" are better internally than the others which say"Sleeve" with the same model.

https://www.bequiet.com/en/powersupply/927

[Stefan Payne]

2 hours ago, STRMfrmXMN said:

Pure Power 10 is stuck there because of a sleeve-bearing fan, just by the way.

It has a RIFLE BEARING fan!

I've told you that. Why don't you mention it?!

 

just look at the Website:

https://www.bequiet.com/de/powersupply/928

 

Quote

 

Lagertechnologie

Rifle

 

 

That it has a Sleeve Number is common for all Sleeve Bearing fans!

Those manufacturers just don't use different numbers for Rifle or even FDB Fans.

 

 

Look here, all three have the same Model Number: S1202512L

 

  

One has a normal sleeve Bearing, one a bit better, one an FDB...

You can _NOT_ go by Model Number!

[STRMfrmXMN]

7 minutes ago, Stefan Payne said:

It has a RIFLE BEARING fan!

I've told you that. Why don't you mention it?!

 

I'm fairly certain you haven't told me that. I went off reviews from when it was launched that said it had a sleeve fan.

 

Which units have a sleeve? Any of them? 

[Stefan Payne]

Just now, STRMfrmXMN said:

I'm fairly certain you haven't told me that. I went off reviews from when it was launched that said it had a sleeve fan.

Yes, we had that discussion in the Tier List Thread a couple of time, where I mentioned that it has a Rifle Bearing.

Just look it up...

[breixobaloca]

4 minutes ago, STRMfrmXMN said:

I'm fairly certain you haven't told me that. I went off reviews from when it was launched that said it had a sleeve fan.

 

Which units have a sleeve? Any of them? 

I send you the example, just willing to clarify things and not to deviate this post too much:

 

In the JonnyGURU Forum, it was revealed that Globe Fan had an FDB fan with a Sleeve model number, so some of us thought that the FDB was fake (I made a meme calling their fans "Fake Dynamic Bearing" ), but the Silverstone representative opened a Globe Fan Sleeve and an FDB, and in fact they were quite different

http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/showpost.php?p=138537&postcount=63

 

Even Cybenetics, which listed the fan as Sleeve at first (or at least that's what I remember), changed it to "Rifle Bearing" https://www.cybenetics.com/code/pdf.php?id=ML7