Jump to content

Blown capacitor on gpu

WindowsXP16
Go to solution Solved by Changis,
3 minutes ago, WindowsXP16 said:

I have fixed the formatting issue.

 

The damage only stopped the fan from working, I have used the GPU for the past 2 days but unplugged it now just in case.

 

The card is an Sapphire R7 360 and it is about a year old. I have overclocked it using the AMD software.

you bought the card new a year ago? because it was released 2.5 years ago, so i wouldn't wait to long if you can RMA it. i'm assuming you still have the receipt?
 

anyway, good luck atleast, i have a feeling that most likely they will conclude user error due to overclocking or see that the cooler was removed (thermal paste) and refuse rma.. then again i might be wrong..
 

Got a blown capacitor on my GPU. GPU still works fine, the capacitor is responsible for the fan so only damage is the cooling capability of the GPU. I will send the GPU for RMA but will do so in the next month as it is a long drive to the place I got the GPU from.

 

Question is how safe it to use?

 

Like I said GPU works fine and I can just hook up the fan on a Molex connector for the time being. I don't want to make the situation any worst, but I don't want to game on an IGPU these holidays.

  •  

17120004.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

firstly: when copy pasting posts you have made other places, remove formatting so it's actually readable.. nobody with night theme is able to read this post..
asas.PNG.517522aa647b51b4b1c0e6fa0710d588.PNG


also, what card? how old? have you overclocked it? done any mods? 

if it's broken and you keep using it, you are potentionally voiding any RMA claims you want to make..

it can work perfectly fine for years, or it can stop working in 5 minutes, impossible to tell when things like these happen, but if one blew, then others can as well, and using it now increases the risk of other caps blowing up too..

Have you tried to perform a sudden temporary interrupt of the electricity flow to your computational device followed by a re-initialization procedure of the central processing unit and associated components?


Personal Rig Specs

Spoiler

CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K @ 4.8GHZ
Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX Z270H GAMING
Graphics Card: Inno3D ICHILL GEFORCE GTX 1080 TI X3 ULTRA
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX Black DDR4 2x8GB @ 3GHZ
Storage: 2 x Samsung NVMe SSD 960 EVO 256GB in Raid | 2 x Seagate 4TB Expansion Desktop 

(seagates are originally external drives removed from casing and installed internally)
PSU: Seasonic Prime Titanium 850W 
Case: Mission SG GGX 3.5 (same as Rosewill Cullinan or Anidees AI Crystal with other stock fans)
Cooling: Kraken X62 for CPU, Corsair H55 with NZXT Kraken G12 for GPU 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, WindowsXP16 said:

 

Got a blown capacitor on my GPU. GPU still works fine, the capacitor is responsible for the fan so only damage is the cooling capability of the GPU. I will send the GPU for RMA but will do so in the next month as it is a long drive to the place I got the GPU from.

 

Question is how safe it to use?

 

Like I said GPU works fine and I can just hook up the fan on a Molex connector for the time being. I don't want to make the situation any worst, but I don't want to game on an IGPU these holidays.

rma it right away, the longer you  wait, the more damage may occur

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, HalGameGuru said:

Is that a cap or a resistor?

i'm assuming it is the residue left by the blown capacitor.. i don't thing resistors can blow like that...

Have you tried to perform a sudden temporary interrupt of the electricity flow to your computational device followed by a re-initialization procedure of the central processing unit and associated components?


Personal Rig Specs

Spoiler

CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K @ 4.8GHZ
Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX Z270H GAMING
Graphics Card: Inno3D ICHILL GEFORCE GTX 1080 TI X3 ULTRA
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX Black DDR4 2x8GB @ 3GHZ
Storage: 2 x Samsung NVMe SSD 960 EVO 256GB in Raid | 2 x Seagate 4TB Expansion Desktop 

(seagates are originally external drives removed from casing and installed internally)
PSU: Seasonic Prime Titanium 850W 
Case: Mission SG GGX 3.5 (same as Rosewill Cullinan or Anidees AI Crystal with other stock fans)
Cooling: Kraken X62 for CPU, Corsair H55 with NZXT Kraken G12 for GPU 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Changis said:

i'm assuming it is the residue left by the blown capacitor.. i don't thing resistors can blow like that...

If you look at the traces and marking on the PCB that doesn't look like a place that had a capacitor.

Notice the big white circle around the capacitor's position at the top right.

NEW PC build: Blank Heaven   minimalist white and black PC     Old S340 build log "White Heaven"        The "LIGHTCANON" flashlight build log        Project AntiRoll (prototype)        Custom speaker project

Spoiler

Ryzen 3950X | AMD Vega Frontier Edition | ASUS X570 Pro WS | Corsair Vengeance LPX 64GB | NZXT H500 | Seasonic Prime Fanless TX-700 | Custom loop | Coolermaster SK630 White | Logitech MX Master 2S | Samsung 980 Pro 1TB + 970 Pro 512GB | Samsung 58" 4k TV | Scarlett 2i4 | 2x AT2020

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Enderman said:

If you look at the traces and marking on the PCB that doesn't look like a place that had a capacitor.

Notice the big white circle around the capacitor's position at the top right.

it sure isn't a resistor :P but what else can leave such a big splotch of residue?

also, not all capacitors are round ;)

Have you tried to perform a sudden temporary interrupt of the electricity flow to your computational device followed by a re-initialization procedure of the central processing unit and associated components?


Personal Rig Specs

Spoiler

CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K @ 4.8GHZ
Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX Z270H GAMING
Graphics Card: Inno3D ICHILL GEFORCE GTX 1080 TI X3 ULTRA
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX Black DDR4 2x8GB @ 3GHZ
Storage: 2 x Samsung NVMe SSD 960 EVO 256GB in Raid | 2 x Seagate 4TB Expansion Desktop 

(seagates are originally external drives removed from casing and installed internally)
PSU: Seasonic Prime Titanium 850W 
Case: Mission SG GGX 3.5 (same as Rosewill Cullinan or Anidees AI Crystal with other stock fans)
Cooling: Kraken X62 for CPU, Corsair H55 with NZXT Kraken G12 for GPU 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, BubblyCharizard said:

rma it right away, the longer you  wait, the more damage may occur

I guess no game for me at the moment, I even had a temporary solution...

24891754_1873391386322991_164934284_n.jp

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, HalGameGuru said:

Is that a cap or a resistor?

It's a tantalum capacitor.

Hand, n. A singular instrument worn at the end of the human arm and commonly thrust into somebody’s pocket.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, BubblyCharizard said:

I hope you didn't take the fan shroud off......that usually voids the warranty

It shouldn't void the warranty, as for maintenance work like replacing thermal paste or cleaning dust. Besides I did not see any warranty void stickers or paint on the screws which should tell me that I'm fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, Enderman said:

If you look at the traces and marking on the PCB that doesn't look like a place that had a capacitor.

Notice the big white circle around the capacitor's position at the top right.

There are plenty more types of capacitors than just those big electrolytic caps you're referring to. Those rectangular, yellowish objects you see in the picture are SMD-size tantalum capacitors, but there are also SMD-sized electrolytics, ceramic caps and so on and they don't all come in cylindrical shapes, and SMD-caps can be fucking miniscule.

Hand, n. A singular instrument worn at the end of the human arm and commonly thrust into somebody’s pocket.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, Changis said:

firstly: when copy pasting posts you have made other places, remove formatting so it's actually readable.. nobody with night theme is able to read this post..
asas.PNG.517522aa647b51b4b1c0e6fa0710d588.PNG


also, what card? how old? have you overclocked it? done any mods? 

if it's broken and you keep using it, you are potentionally voiding any RMA claims you want to make..

it can work perfectly fine for years, or it can stop working in 5 minutes, impossible to tell when things like these happen, but if one blew, then others can as well, and using it now increases the risk of other caps blowing up too..

I have fixed the formatting issue.

 

The damage only stopped the fan from working, I have used the GPU for the past 2 days but unplugged it now just in case.

 

The card is an Sapphire R7 360 and it is about a year old. I have overclocked it using the AMD software.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, WindowsXP16 said:

I have fixed the formatting issue.

 

The damage only stopped the fan from working, I have used the GPU for the past 2 days but unplugged it now just in case.

 

The card is an Sapphire R7 360 and it is about a year old. I have overclocked it using the AMD software.

you bought the card new a year ago? because it was released 2.5 years ago, so i wouldn't wait to long if you can RMA it. i'm assuming you still have the receipt?
 

anyway, good luck atleast, i have a feeling that most likely they will conclude user error due to overclocking or see that the cooler was removed (thermal paste) and refuse rma.. then again i might be wrong..
 

Have you tried to perform a sudden temporary interrupt of the electricity flow to your computational device followed by a re-initialization procedure of the central processing unit and associated components?


Personal Rig Specs

Spoiler

CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K @ 4.8GHZ
Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX Z270H GAMING
Graphics Card: Inno3D ICHILL GEFORCE GTX 1080 TI X3 ULTRA
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX Black DDR4 2x8GB @ 3GHZ
Storage: 2 x Samsung NVMe SSD 960 EVO 256GB in Raid | 2 x Seagate 4TB Expansion Desktop 

(seagates are originally external drives removed from casing and installed internally)
PSU: Seasonic Prime Titanium 850W 
Case: Mission SG GGX 3.5 (same as Rosewill Cullinan or Anidees AI Crystal with other stock fans)
Cooling: Kraken X62 for CPU, Corsair H55 with NZXT Kraken G12 for GPU 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, WereCatf said:

There are plenty more types of capacitors than just those big electrolytic caps you're referring to. Those rectangular, yellowish objects you see in the picture are SMD-size tantalum capacitors, but there are also SMD-sized electrolytics, ceramic caps and so on and they don't all come in cylindrical shapes, and SMD-caps can be fucking miniscule.

Yes but read the labeling on the PCB.

Q252

That is not a capacitor.

The capacitor is on the right, labeled C201.

NEW PC build: Blank Heaven   minimalist white and black PC     Old S340 build log "White Heaven"        The "LIGHTCANON" flashlight build log        Project AntiRoll (prototype)        Custom speaker project

Spoiler

Ryzen 3950X | AMD Vega Frontier Edition | ASUS X570 Pro WS | Corsair Vengeance LPX 64GB | NZXT H500 | Seasonic Prime Fanless TX-700 | Custom loop | Coolermaster SK630 White | Logitech MX Master 2S | Samsung 980 Pro 1TB + 970 Pro 512GB | Samsung 58" 4k TV | Scarlett 2i4 | 2x AT2020

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, Changis said:

you bought the card new a year ago? because it was released 2.5 years ago, so i wouldn't wait to long if you can RMA it. i'm assuming you still have the receipt?
 

anyway, good luck atleast, i have a feeling that most likely they will conclude user error due to overclocking or see that the cooler was removed (thermal paste) and refuse rma.. then again i might be wrong..
 

Well I made a pretty stupid decision then. Just looking into the Sapphire Warranty website, I have voided my warranty by removing the shroud and I did replace the thermal paste. One more question though, what happens if RMA gets rejected. I'm going to try anyway but I don't want my card getting hold for ransom because they want me to pay shipping costs or something.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Enderman said:

Yes but read the labeling on the PCB.

Q252

That is not a capacitor.

The capacitor is on the right, labeled C201.

:dry: I'll just reply with a picture.

17120004.jpg.3dfddfac7f80a2e5136f3ddc7c99153c.thumb.jpg.b5e0f5d4f5a7275f11e443bca7e182c0.jpg

Hand, n. A singular instrument worn at the end of the human arm and commonly thrust into somebody’s pocket.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, WindowsXP16 said:

Well I made a pretty stupid decision then. Just looking into the Sapphire Warranty website, I have voided my warranty by removing the shroud and I did replace the thermal paste. One more question though, what happens if RMA gets rejected. I'm going to try anyway but I don't want my card getting hold for ransom because they want me to pay shipping costs or something.

yeah, you most likely have to pay shipping costs, and if you're really unlucky, a diagnostic fee as well..

Have you tried to perform a sudden temporary interrupt of the electricity flow to your computational device followed by a re-initialization procedure of the central processing unit and associated components?


Personal Rig Specs

Spoiler

CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K @ 4.8GHZ
Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX Z270H GAMING
Graphics Card: Inno3D ICHILL GEFORCE GTX 1080 TI X3 ULTRA
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX Black DDR4 2x8GB @ 3GHZ
Storage: 2 x Samsung NVMe SSD 960 EVO 256GB in Raid | 2 x Seagate 4TB Expansion Desktop 

(seagates are originally external drives removed from casing and installed internally)
PSU: Seasonic Prime Titanium 850W 
Case: Mission SG GGX 3.5 (same as Rosewill Cullinan or Anidees AI Crystal with other stock fans)
Cooling: Kraken X62 for CPU, Corsair H55 with NZXT Kraken G12 for GPU 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Changis said:

yeah, you most likely have to pay shipping costs, and if you're really unlucky, a diagnostic fee as well..

Just my bad luck then, had to break as soon as my holidays start. Thanks for the help anyway, I guess I will just use it and see where the road takes me, the GPU is fairly cheap anyway and I can probably upgrade it when it does break.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

2 minutes ago, WindowsXP16 said:

Well I made a pretty stupid decision then. Just looking into the Sapphire Warranty website, I have voided my warranty by removing the shroud and I did replace the thermal paste. One more question though, what happens if RMA gets rejected. I'm going to try anyway but I don't want my card getting hold for ransom because they want me to pay shipping costs or something.

if it says removing the shroud voids warranty, i can almost certainly tell you that RMA will be denied.. they will see thermal paste has been reapplied.. it's actually pretty easy to see if it was done by a person or factory..

Have you tried to perform a sudden temporary interrupt of the electricity flow to your computational device followed by a re-initialization procedure of the central processing unit and associated components?


Personal Rig Specs

Spoiler

CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K @ 4.8GHZ
Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX Z270H GAMING
Graphics Card: Inno3D ICHILL GEFORCE GTX 1080 TI X3 ULTRA
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX Black DDR4 2x8GB @ 3GHZ
Storage: 2 x Samsung NVMe SSD 960 EVO 256GB in Raid | 2 x Seagate 4TB Expansion Desktop 

(seagates are originally external drives removed from casing and installed internally)
PSU: Seasonic Prime Titanium 850W 
Case: Mission SG GGX 3.5 (same as Rosewill Cullinan or Anidees AI Crystal with other stock fans)
Cooling: Kraken X62 for CPU, Corsair H55 with NZXT Kraken G12 for GPU 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, WindowsXP16 said:

Just my bad luck then, had to break as soon as my holidays start. Thanks for the help anyway, I guess I will just use it and see where the road takes me, the GPU is fairly cheap anyway and I can probably upgrade it when it does break.

beat it to hell as long as it lasts then, and start saving up for a replacement ;) *cough* 1080ti? *cough* :P lol

Have you tried to perform a sudden temporary interrupt of the electricity flow to your computational device followed by a re-initialization procedure of the central processing unit and associated components?


Personal Rig Specs

Spoiler

CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K @ 4.8GHZ
Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX Z270H GAMING
Graphics Card: Inno3D ICHILL GEFORCE GTX 1080 TI X3 ULTRA
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX Black DDR4 2x8GB @ 3GHZ
Storage: 2 x Samsung NVMe SSD 960 EVO 256GB in Raid | 2 x Seagate 4TB Expansion Desktop 

(seagates are originally external drives removed from casing and installed internally)
PSU: Seasonic Prime Titanium 850W 
Case: Mission SG GGX 3.5 (same as Rosewill Cullinan or Anidees AI Crystal with other stock fans)
Cooling: Kraken X62 for CPU, Corsair H55 with NZXT Kraken G12 for GPU 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Changis said:

beat it to hell as long as it lasts then, and start saving up for a replacement ;) *cough* 1080ti? *cough* :P lol

Should probably start a new thread, but now my GPU seems to thermal throttle a lot running furmark, even when temps are below 70 degrees Celsius. What could be the cause? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 12/8/2017 at 12:50 AM, WereCatf said:

It's a tantalum capacitor.

yeah I was looking at the wrong set of notations on the PCB.

 

On 12/8/2017 at 3:00 AM, WindowsXP16 said:

Should probably start a new thread, but now my GPU seems to thermal throttle a lot running furmark, even when temps are below 70 degrees Celsius. What could be the cause? 

It's possible that the GPU cannot get fan speed information so its throttling before it gets hotter like it was running with no fan at all. You may have to get a custom BIOS or force a specific speed via something like TRIXX to keep it from throttling before it reaches the actual throttle temp.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

at this point you could just take the shroud off and zip-tie two case fans to the cooler and have them run on max the whole time.

Folding stats

Vigilo Confido

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, HalGameGuru said:

yeah I was looking at the wrong set of notations on the PCB.

 

It's possible that the GPU cannot get fan speed information so its throttling before it gets hotter like it was running with no fan at all. You may have to get a custom BIOS or force a specific speed via something like TRIXX to keep it from throttling before it reaches the actual throttle temp.

Yeah I figured that was the issue, I cannot change the fan speed at all as the fan header is completely busted, so no hope there. I've removed the GPU and packed it in its original box; just to try my luck on the RMA thing I was planning.

 

5 hours ago, Nicnac said:

at this point you could just take the shroud off and zip-tie two case fans to the cooler and have them run on max the whole time.

I put an intel stock cooler fan on where the fan was and put that in max speed, however the GPU mysteriously ramps ups the temps to 90 after a couple of minutes under load. I have a feeling the blob of solder on the picture I took could be shorting and a high amount of current is gushing though that area hence the temps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×