Please recommend a router (Canadian)

[Just Monika]

Hi there! My current router, a Netgear WNDR3700, has served me well for the past 3 years. However, it has been acting up and dropping my internet connection to the point of requiring a reboot every 2 weeks. I am beginning to look for a replacement router because I'm tired of having to constantly reboot it.

 

My budget is about $200 CAD, but this is not a hard limit and I may spend more if it is worth it.

 

My requirements:

• Reliability and longevity is my #1 priority. If you have or know about a router that you haven't had to reboot in several months, I would like to know about it!
• 1 gigabit Ethernet port (WAN) - Necessary because my ISP-provided modem has a firmware bug where its speeds are crippled with a less-than-gigabit WAN port
• Sufficient Wifi range for a 2-story house (assume 20 meter range) - I don't know much about Wifi technology (ie: b/g/n, etc), I just don't want my wifi signal to drop randomly.

My Internet connection:

• 150 Mbit down, 15 Mbit up

My current network setup:

• 2 PCs connected to router through a 100 Mbit powerline Ethernet adapter (currently looking for > 100Mbit but can't find decent powerline products)
• 3 smartphones, 4 tablets, 1 laptop connected by Wifi

If you require any additional information to give a recommendation, please let me know. Thank you very much for reading this.

 

[David89]

Personally, i would recommend you a FritzBox, but i'm not sure if they are available in Canada.

 

About your Wifi: This isn't easy to answer, because it depends on how your house has been built. As for Powerline: I've got the TP-Link 1200 Mbit ones, they are actually pretty decent. As with everything regarding powerline, get one with a "throughplug" (not sure how to call it). I get around 400 Mbit on them.

 

Edit: This one looks decent: https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Wireless-Router-1300Mbps-Beamforming/dp/B00PDLRHFW

Also does Beamforming, which can help A LOT.

 

These are the Powerline Adapters i am using: https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-TL-PA8030P-KIT-Powerline-Pass-through/dp/B00Y3QPG1A/

[Zando_]

You'll want a 802.11ac router with dual band (2.4Ghz for range, 5GHz for speed). There's plenty of nice ones out there. 

[manikyath]

9 minutes ago, Weird Face said:

1 gigabit Ethernet port (WAN) - Necessary because my ISP-provided modem has a firmware bug where its speeds are crippled with a less-than-gigabit WAN port

are there still routers without this? (except totally cheap garbage offcourse)

[Just Monika]

12 minutes ago, David89 said:

Personally, i would recommend you a FritzBox, but i'm not sure if they are available in Canada.

 

About your Wifi: This isn't easy to answer, because it depends on how your house has been built. As for Powerline: I've got the TP-Link 1200 Mbit ones, they are actually pretty decent. As with everything regarding powerline, get one with a "throughplug" (not sure how to call it). I get around 400 Mbit on them.

I looked up the FritzBox on Wikipedia and it looks like it probably isn't available to Canadians, at least I've never seen the brand on electronics sites like Newegg. The Wifi requirement shouldn't be too stringent, as long as it isn't worse than my current router I'm fine with it. The main problem with finding a >100 Mbit powerline adapter is that I can't find one that:

• Has an electrical socket pass-through
• Has at least 2 Ethernet ports (preferably 3)
• Doesn't block my second power outlet (This is the difficult one)

12 minutes ago, Zando Bob said:

You'll want a 802.11ac router with dual band (2.4Ghz for range, 5GHz for speed). There's plenty of nice ones out there. 

That's the general idea, though I haven't kept up with wireless tech since I was looking for a router 3 years ago. Looks like technology hasn't made any significant advancements since then.

9 minutes ago, manikyath said:

are there still routers without this? (except totally cheap garbage offcourse)

My old $50 wired-only DLink router only had a 100 Mbit WAN port, couldn't utilize more than 50% of my Internet speeds (100 up/10 down back then).

 

I'm also interested in brand recommendations as well as brand warnings. From my previous online research, it seems D-Link is poorly regarded in terms of networking products.

 

Also thanks for all the replies so far, your help is greatly appreciated.

[David89]

 

1 minute ago, Weird Face said:

I looked up the FritzBox on Wikipedia and it looks like it probably isn't available to Canadians, at least I've never seen the brand on electronics sites like Newegg. The Wifi requirement shouldn't be too stringent, as long as it isn't worse than my current router I'm fine with it. The main problem with finding a >100 Mbit powerline adapter is that I can't find one that:

• Has an electrical socket pass-through
• Has at least 2 Ethernet ports (preferably 3)
• Doesn't block my second power outlet

12 minutes ago, David89 said:

Edit: This one looks decent: https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Wireless-Router-1300Mbps-Beamforming/dp/B00PDLRHFW

Also does Beamforming, which can help A LOT.

 

These are the Powerline Adapters i am using: https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-TL-PA8030P-KIT-Powerline-Pass-through/dp/B00Y3QPG1A/

I've had TP-Link Routers with some customers. They are pretty decent, but can be a bit tricky to set up right.

[manikyath]

3 minutes ago, Weird Face said:

I'm also interested in brand recommendations as well as brand warnings.

D-link is shit, TP-Link is budget crap, that's about it

[Just Monika]

1 minute ago, David89 said:

 

I've had TP-Link Routers with some customers. They are pretty decent, but can be a bit tricky to set up right.

Thanks for your recommendations. I'll definitely look into that router you linked. I have seen the powerline kit you linked, but I've read reviews saying that it blocks the second power outlet due to its rounded shape near the top.

[manikyath]

8 minutes ago, David89 said:

 

I've had TP-Link Routers with some customers. They are pretty decent, but can be a bit tricky to set up right.

and they are also hilareously unreliable. you kinda get what you pay for..

(i've burned trough about 5 by now, if memory serves)

[79 Potatoes]

12 minutes ago, manikyath said:

and they are also hilareously unreliable. you kinda get what you pay for..

(i've burned trough about 5 by now, if memory serves)

How does one burn routers ?

[manikyath]

Just now, 79 Potatoes said:

How does one burn routers ?

i see TP link routers as burner phones, if you have an application for which you dont want to use a decent phone you get a burner phone

 

if you have an application for which you dont want to buy a decent router, you get a TP-link

--

and for an actual answer, all of them eventually start showing the behavior OP described, after less than 5 years

i still miss my motorola surfboard that lasted 13 years..

[kirashi]

3 hours ago, Weird Face said:

Hi there! My current router, a Netgear WNDR3700, has served me well for the past 3 years. However, it has been acting up and dropping my internet connection to the point of requiring a reboot every 2 weeks. I am beginning to look for a replacement router because I'm tired of having to constantly reboot it.

 

My budget is about $200 CAD, but this is not a hard limit and I may spend more if it is worth it.

--SNIP--

If you require any additional information to give a recommendation, please let me know. Thank you very much for reading this.

 

Fellow Canadian reporting in here. Buy the Netgear R7000 Nighthawk router (around $160 - $220 CAD - DONT BUY FROM NEW SELLERS ON AMAZON), and install AdvancedTomato. Done and done. I have now setup more of these routers than I have fingers to count with, all of them running originally DD-WRT, now running AdvancedTomato firmware. This firmware replaces the stock Netgear crap, providing you with way more options and control over your network. It's not enterprise grade by any means, but it's far ahead of what most consumer routers will handle without you having to build and configure a pfSense box, or spend a ton of money on Ubiquiti AP's and an Edgerouter.

 

Tomato v1.28.0000 -138 K26ARM USB AIO-64K
size: 37976 bytes (27560 left)
 ========================================================
 Welcome to the Netgear R7000 [spACe]
 Uptime:  16:54:58 up 92 days, 17:44
 Load average: 0.00, 0.01, 0.04
 Mem usage: 13.9% (used 34.73 of 249.64 MB)
 WAN1: 70.66.XXX.XXX/22 @ C4:04:15:XX:XX:XX
 LAN : 10.1.1.1/24 @ DHCP: 10.1.1.100 - 10.1.1.150
 WL0 : 2,4GHz @ spACe @ channel: CAauto @ C4:04:15:XX:XX:XX
 WL1 : 5GHz @ spACe5G @ channel: CAauto @ C6:04:15:XX:XX:XX
 ========================================================

 

My router has been up for 92 days, as per SSH output, and only because of a power outtage we had during the last big westcoast snowstorm. We're with Shaw on the Internet 150 package and regularly get 130mbps down and 12mbps up during peak hours. I have been able to pull over 180mbps down and 16mbps up really late at night, or during work hours for people in my neighborhood. Local transfers through either the router or my 8-port Linksys Gigabit switch from 2008 operate at close to full gigabit speeds too.

 

Range of wireless is great as well in our 2 story ~1600 sqft (closer to 2000 if you include the garage) house. We're situated on a fairly large lot compared to newer neighborhoods, and as such we have a lot of ground to cover outside. The signal on most of my devices sits between 4 and 5 bars anywhere in the house and on our back patio, and only drops down to 2-3 bars when we're about 50 ft away from the house in the garden or in the garage because WiFi hates sheet metal.

 

That said, there are better performing antennas you can buy for routers that come with 3 external BNC-style connectors, and in some cases you'll still see better performance running a single WiFi router and an additional Wireless AP instead. I've actually converted an old WNDR3700, now running DD-WRT, into a wired network bridge and Wireless AP for video game consoles behind our TV, so don't throw out your WNDR3700 just yet.

 

If you have any other questions, please send a bag of cookies to my house and I'll gladly answer them.  

[Just Monika]

@kirashi Awesome, thank you very much for the recommendation, and also well within my budget to top it off! I will definitely look into this router as well. That 92 day uptime seems mighty attractive as well.

 

I'm not sure how I feel about installing third party firmware as I've never done it before, but I may give it a try if/when I get more familiar with the process. Installing it is as simple as flashing new firmware right?

[kirashi]

30 minutes ago, Weird Face said:

@kirashi Awesome, thank you very much for the recommendation, and also well within my budget to top it off! I will definitely look into this router as well. That 92 day uptime seems mighty attractive as well.

 

I'm not sure how I feel about installing third party firmware as I've never done it before, but I may give it a try if/when I get more familiar with the process. Installing it is as simple as flashing new firmware right?

Correct. Basically you flash an initial .CHK file from the Netgear web interface and let the router fully reboot. Takes only a couple minutes, but I usually like to wait at least 5 minutes before doing anything else with the new firmware. Once it's up and running, you then flash the appropriate .TRX file from the new interface, and play the waiting game again. I usually just go with the AIO firmware (the largest) because I know the R7000 can handle it, even if you don't use all the features.

 

Maybe I should write a guide on this stuff, since I keep posting about it. A LOT. Hmmm... something to consider. But to answer your question, it's like flashing firmware, yes. It's actually even safer than flashing most BIOS images or camera firmware, for example, because unless you fully fry the router with an improper power source or something really stupid, the Broadcom UBoot bootloader has a few second wait during boot where you can recover using TFTP. Worst case, the router also has a serial port inside, so you can take it to someone who knows how to recover it serially.

 

That being said, I've never bricked one of these things before, so if you read instructions and are patient, you'll be fine.

[Just Monika]

@kirashi Thanks again, your description of the process actually puts most of my concerns to rest.

 

(edited for typo correction)

[David89]

11 hours ago, Weird Face said:

Thanks for your recommendations. I'll definitely look into that router you linked. I have seen the powerline kit you linked, but I've read reviews saying that it blocks the second power outlet due to its rounded shape near the top.

11 hours ago, manikyath said:

and they are also hilareously unreliable. you kinda get what you pay for..

(i've burned trough about 5 by now, if memory serves)

 

Yes, they do block the upper power outlet if there is one and depending on the shape of your outlets - bit unfortunate, but i personally can live with that.

 

Depends on the Model, the Archer ones have been pretty decent for me, few RMAs, but nothing major. The cheaper ones are absolut crap...

 

Buit apart from that, @kirashis recommendation is even better