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After I cleaned my radiator (GTX H110i) today, my CPU (5820k) idle temps would not drop below 82c. +90c when just browsing chrome. Normally it is around 65-75c when on chrome.

I tried replacing the thermal compound but that did not seem to help.

Removed OC to default. - no help

To clean my rad I used a vacuum with bristles. Pretty sure that would not effect cooling performance..

I used a microfiber cloth to wipe PCIe slots, not the motherboard itself.O.o

One thing to note - when I feel the two pipes leading to the rad, one is cool, and the other is warm. So I think the rad is doing its job. 

I don't think there is a program eating performance because temps are still 80+ in the BIOS menu.

 

PCP link ( http://pcpartpicker.com/list/h3wVBP )

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When reapplying the thermal paste, did you clean off the previous? I know silly question but this could definitely affect it. 

My build:

 

i7-6800k @ 4.32GHz

ASRock Fatal1ty X99 Professional Gaming i7

G.Skill Rampage V 4x8GB DDR4-2800MHz @ 2916MHz

Zotac 1070 AMP Extreme @ 2100MHz

Samsung 950 Pro 256GB M.2 NVME SSD

Samsung 850 Evo 1TB SSD

EVGA 750W 80+ Gold

NZXT Kraken X61 CPU Cooler

NZXT Hue+

Corsair 750D Airflow Edition

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Holy shit 75C idle temps! something is definitely wrong there, especially on water cooling.

Literally an intel stock cooler should be able to get 45C or so idle temps (while on chrome) so either your pump is broken or your radiator fans are not workiing

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Spend As Much Time Writing Your Question As You Want Me To Spend Responding To It.

If I'm wrong, please point it out. I'm always learning & I won't bite.

 

Laptop:

Lenovo Yoga 7 Air: Ryzen 7840S, 32GiB DDR5

 

Desktop (Old but I never replaced it):

Delidded Core i7 4770K - GTX 1070 ROG Strix - 16GB DDR3 @2000Mhz

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39 minutes ago, RadiatingLight said:

Holy shit 75C idle temps! something is definitely wrong there, especially on water cooling.

Literally an intel stock cooler should be able to get 45C or so idle temps (while on chrome) so either your pump is broken or your radiator fans are not workiing

60-70 idle temps seems to be normal.

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2420752/5820k-idel-temperature-load-temperature.html

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23 minutes ago, Harinder said:

No. They really aren't. Feel you pump, is it vibrating when running?

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Those temps are ridiculously high.  My 5930K is cooler while benchmarking at 4.5GHz than your 5820K is on idle, and I'm only running on air.

 

As for one pipe being cool and one hot, that's not normal.  Even with the CPU being hot, the temperature in the loop should be fairly constant given sufficient flow.  So you definitely have a flow problem.  The pump may be running at 3000RPM, but that doesn't mean it's actually moving much water around if one of the tubes is blocking it.

 

4 minutes ago, Majestic said:

Are we talking farenheit or celcuis here?

 He mentions 82c and 90c, so I assume the "c" stands for Celcius. 

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3 minutes ago, Harinder said:

Celsius

Both 65-70 and your current temps are way, WAY too high. Idle temps should be <30 when speedstepping properly works.

Mine are 23-25 atm, and that's on air (granted, not exactly a Haswell-E CPU, but it shouldn't matter much in idle).

 

You're either still improperly mounting it, something is wrong with teh CPU block or the motherboard is feeding it retard-level voltages.

Try putting back the stock fan, and look at temperatures then.

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My OCed i7-6800k with an h110i GTX idles at 30-35C and maxes out at 60C.

 

First, check my sig for a fix related to Link.

 

If that doesn't work, remount the block. But you have to do it outside the case, the tubes are very stiff and you won't get a flush mount unless they're perfectly relaxed which you can't do if you try to mount it in the case (I had this issue and dropped by temps 20-30C by remounting it carefully in a relaxed position.) Mount it first, then install the radiator/mobo in the case.

 

Finally, are you sure you're using the correct standoffs? If you're trying to use the AMD ones you wont have a good contact.

Primary PC-

CPU: Intel i7-6800k @ 4.2-4.4Ghz   CPU COOLER: Bequiet Dark Rock Pro 4   MOBO: MSI X99A SLI Plus   RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX quad-channel DDR4-2800  GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 iCX   PSU: Corsair RM1000i   CASE: Corsair 750D Obsidian   SSDs: 500GB Samsung 960 Evo + 256GB Samsung 850 Pro   HDDs: Toshiba 3TB + Seagate 1TB   Monitors: Acer Predator XB271HUC 27" 2560x1440 (165Hz G-Sync)  +  LG 29UM57 29" 2560x1080   OS: Windows 10 Pro

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CPU: AMD FX-8320 @ 4.4Ghz  MOBO: Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3   RAM: 16GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Gigabyte GTX 760 OC   PSU: Rosewill 750W   CASE: Antec Gaming One   SSD: 120GB PNY CS1311   HDDs: WD Red 3TB + WD 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200 -or- Steam Link to Vizio M43C1 43" 4K TV  OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Offsite NAS/VM Server-

CPU: 2x Xeon E5645 (12-core)  Model: Dell PowerEdge T610  RAM: 16GB DDR3-1333  PSUs: 2x 570W  SSDs: 8GB Kingston Boot FD + 32GB Sandisk Cache SSD   HDDs: WD Red 4TB + Seagate 2TB + Seagate 320GB   OS: FreeNAS 11+

 

Laptop-

CPU: Intel i7-3520M   Model: Dell Latitude E6530   RAM: 8GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Nvidia NVS 5200M   SSD: 240GB TeamGroup L5   HDD: WD Black 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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14 hours ago, Captain Chaos said:

Those temps are ridiculously high.  My 5930K is cooler while benchmarking at 4.5GHz than your 5820K is on idle, and I'm only running on air.

 

As for one pipe being cool and one hot, that's not normal.  Even with the CPU being hot, the temperature in the loop should be fairly constant given sufficient flow.  So you definitely have a flow problem.  The pump may be running at 3000RPM, but that doesn't mean it's actually moving much water around if one of the tubes is blocking it.

 

 He mentions 82c and 90c, so I assume the "c" stands for Celcius. 

oml im dumb. Ive been running at these temps for 6 months now... Ill try another remount as @pyrojoe34 recommend. if that doesn't help, I will contact Corsair, and hopefully get a replacement rad. Thanks for the help.

14 hours ago, Majestic said:

Both 65-70 and your current temps are way, WAY too high. Idle temps should be <30 when speedstepping properly works.

Mine are 23-25 atm, and that's on air.

 

You're either still improperly mounting it, something is wrong with teh CPU block or the motherboard is feeding it retard-level voltages.

Try putting back the stock fan, and look at temperatures then.

My cpu didnt come with a cooler. :dry:

ill try to remount it and see if that'll fix it. if not then ill replace the rad. thanks for the help. :) 

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Are yo running an OC with no stepping, so it is overclocked all the time in other words? That's the only reason I can think of if you have all the hardware mounted correctly for these insane idle temps.

If you're OC'ing I would definitely reset CMOS and start again, enable stepping in the BIOS/UEFI for sure and then try to get your OC back to what it was. That way the CPU will lower the voltages etc when it doesn't need it.

Please quote my post, or put @paddy-stone if you want me to respond to you.

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  • Main PC build  https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/2K6Q7X
  • ASUS x53e  - i7 2670QM / Sony BD writer x8 / Win 10, Elemetary OS, Ubuntu/ Samsung 830 SSD
  • Lenovo G50 - 8Gb RAM - Samsung 860 Evo 250GB SSD - DVD writer
  •  
  • Displays:-
  • Philips 55 OLED 754 model
  • Panasonic 55" 4k TV
  • LG 29" Ultrawide
  • Philips 24" 1080p monitor as backup
  •  
  • Storage/NAS/Servers:-
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  • Main Server https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/3Qftyk
  • Backup server - HP Proliant Gen 8 4 bay NAS running FreeNAS ZFS striped 3x3TiB WD reds
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  •  
  • Gaming/Tablets etc:-
  • Xbox One S 500GB + 2TB HDD
  • PS4
  • Nvidia Shield TV
  • Xiaomi/Pocafone F2 pro 8GB/256GB
  • Xiaomi Redmi Note 4

 

  • Unused Hardware currently :-
  • 4670K MSI mobo 16GB ram
  • i7 6700K  b250 mobo
  • Zotac GTX 1060 6GB Amp! edition
  • Zotac GTX 1050 mini

 

 

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28 minutes ago, paddy-stone said:

Are yo running an OC with no stepping, so it is overclocked all the time in other words? That's the only reason I can think of if you have all the hardware mounted correctly for these insane idle temps.

If you're OC'ing I would definitely reset CMOS and start again, enable stepping in the BIOS/UEFI for sure and then try to get your OC back to what it was. That way the CPU will lower the voltages etc when it doesn't need it.

Shouldn't matter really. Even if the OC was forced to remain at that frequency even when idle, it still doesn't explain why the CPU is idling at 75*C.

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Just now, Imglidinhere said:

Shouldn't matter really. Even if the OC was forced to remain at that frequency even when idle, it still doesn't explain why the CPU is idling at 75*C.

Yeah, I was just trying to even think of a reason and that's the only one I could think of that even came close.

Please quote my post, or put @paddy-stone if you want me to respond to you.

Spoiler
  • PCs:- 
  • Main PC build  https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/2K6Q7X
  • ASUS x53e  - i7 2670QM / Sony BD writer x8 / Win 10, Elemetary OS, Ubuntu/ Samsung 830 SSD
  • Lenovo G50 - 8Gb RAM - Samsung 860 Evo 250GB SSD - DVD writer
  •  
  • Displays:-
  • Philips 55 OLED 754 model
  • Panasonic 55" 4k TV
  • LG 29" Ultrawide
  • Philips 24" 1080p monitor as backup
  •  
  • Storage/NAS/Servers:-
  • ESXI/test build  https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/4wyR9G
  • Main Server https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/3Qftyk
  • Backup server - HP Proliant Gen 8 4 bay NAS running FreeNAS ZFS striped 3x3TiB WD reds
  • HP ProLiant G6 Server SE316M1 Twin Hex Core Intel Xeon E5645 2.40GHz 48GB RAM
  •  
  • Gaming/Tablets etc:-
  • Xbox One S 500GB + 2TB HDD
  • PS4
  • Nvidia Shield TV
  • Xiaomi/Pocafone F2 pro 8GB/256GB
  • Xiaomi Redmi Note 4

 

  • Unused Hardware currently :-
  • 4670K MSI mobo 16GB ram
  • i7 6700K  b250 mobo
  • Zotac GTX 1060 6GB Amp! edition
  • Zotac GTX 1050 mini

 

 

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4 hours ago, Harinder said:

oml im dumb. Ive been running at these temps for 6 months now... Ill try another remount as @pyrojoe34 recommend. if that doesn't help, I will contact Corsair, and hopefully get a replacement rad. Thanks for the help.

Check the fix in my signature as well.

Primary PC-

CPU: Intel i7-6800k @ 4.2-4.4Ghz   CPU COOLER: Bequiet Dark Rock Pro 4   MOBO: MSI X99A SLI Plus   RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX quad-channel DDR4-2800  GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 iCX   PSU: Corsair RM1000i   CASE: Corsair 750D Obsidian   SSDs: 500GB Samsung 960 Evo + 256GB Samsung 850 Pro   HDDs: Toshiba 3TB + Seagate 1TB   Monitors: Acer Predator XB271HUC 27" 2560x1440 (165Hz G-Sync)  +  LG 29UM57 29" 2560x1080   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Album

Other Systems:

Spoiler

Home HTPC/NAS-

CPU: AMD FX-8320 @ 4.4Ghz  MOBO: Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3   RAM: 16GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Gigabyte GTX 760 OC   PSU: Rosewill 750W   CASE: Antec Gaming One   SSD: 120GB PNY CS1311   HDDs: WD Red 3TB + WD 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200 -or- Steam Link to Vizio M43C1 43" 4K TV  OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Offsite NAS/VM Server-

CPU: 2x Xeon E5645 (12-core)  Model: Dell PowerEdge T610  RAM: 16GB DDR3-1333  PSUs: 2x 570W  SSDs: 8GB Kingston Boot FD + 32GB Sandisk Cache SSD   HDDs: WD Red 4TB + Seagate 2TB + Seagate 320GB   OS: FreeNAS 11+

 

Laptop-

CPU: Intel i7-3520M   Model: Dell Latitude E6530   RAM: 8GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Nvidia NVS 5200M   SSD: 240GB TeamGroup L5   HDD: WD Black 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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9 hours ago, fixitnow said:

What method for thermal paste do you use?

Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste.

9 hours ago, paddy-stone said:

Are yo running an OC with no stepping, so it is overclocked all the time in other words? That's the only reason I can think of if you have all the hardware mounted correctly for these insane idle temps.

If you're OC'ing I would definitely reset CMOS and start again, enable stepping in the BIOS/UEFI for sure and then try to get your OC back to what it was. That way the CPU will lower the voltages etc when it doesn't need it.

Im pretty sure it was stepping, because at idle the clock speed dips down, but when I AIDA running, it goes up to 4gz.:S

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49 minutes ago, Harinder said:

Sorry, I meant what method you use to apply your thermal paste.

I suggest you do it like this:

1- Remove the desired cooler, CPU in your case, making sure to disconnect the fan, putting screws, if applicable, in a safe place such as a magnetic parts tray.  If you are using a air cooler set the cooler on a desk, with the TIM in the air... if you don't want to clean the desk. If you are using air then you might as well clean the whole thing while its out.

2- Clean off the old TIM off the CPU and heat-sink, using TIM remover and a tissue, making sure you have cleaned it all off. Don't be afraid if you have to do a second pass with the tissue and cleaner.

3- Wait a minute or two, for the cleaner to dry

4- Wipe over CPU and cooler with something non-abrasive ,your tee-shirt would be fine.

5- Make a line of thermal compound through the middle of the CPU parallel to the longest edge. You could do a pea or grain of rice but this gets good results. It dose not tend to matter what thermal paste you use. I have been using akasa and cooler-master for a few year and have never had any issues.

6- Spread the Thermal paste out, you want a thin coverage all over the CPU. This is to ensure that all of the CPU die is in contact with the cooler. If you don't spread it out well enough the the thermal paste will act as an insulator rather then a heat transfer method. If you are doing this to a laptop then it dose not matter if TIM goes on the green part of the CPU.

7- Place the cooler on the top and wait a minute, to let the air escape. Some people will move the cooler about but with this method it is not needed as you have sped the TIM out your self.

8- Tighten down the heat sink in a star pattern.

9- Make sure the cooler dose not move at all, need to be careful with this when using stock coolers.

10- Reconnect the fan.

This is how I do it. I have always had good results. Sorry if this seems really generic and if some of it does not apply. To save me typing it out again and again I store it in a .txt file and just copy it in.

Have you tried turning it off and on again?

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35 minutes ago, fixitnow said:

Sorry, I meant what method you use to apply your thermal paste.

I suggest you do it like this:

1- Remove the desired cooler, CPU in your case, making sure to disconnect the fan, putting screws, if applicable, in a safe place such as a magnetic parts tray.  If you are using a air cooler set the cooler on a desk, with the TIM in the air... if you don't want to clean the desk. If you are using air then you might as well clean the whole thing while its out.

2- Clean off the old TIM off the CPU and heat-sink, using TIM remover and a tissue, making sure you have cleaned it all off. Don't be afraid if you have to do a second pass with the tissue and cleaner.

3- Wait a minute or two, for the cleaner to dry

4- Wipe over CPU and cooler with something non-abrasive ,your tee-shirt would be fine.

5- Make a line of thermal compound through the middle of the CPU parallel to the longest edge. You could do a pea or grain of rice but this gets good results. It dose not tend to matter what thermal paste you use. I have been using akasa and cooler-master for a few year and have never had any issues.

6- Spread the Thermal paste out, you want a thin coverage all over the CPU. This is to ensure that all of the CPU die is in contact with the cooler. If you don't spread it out well enough the the thermal paste will act as an insulator rather then a heat transfer method. If you are doing this to a laptop then it dose not matter if TIM goes on the green part of the CPU.

7- Place the cooler on the top and wait a minute, to let the air escape. Some people will move the cooler about but with this method it is not needed as you have sped the TIM out your self.

8- Tighten down the heat sink in a star pattern.

9- Make sure the cooler dose not move at all, need to be careful with this when using stock coolers.

10- Reconnect the fan.

This is how I do it. I have always had good results. Sorry if this seems really generic and if some of it does not apply. To save me typing it out again and again I store it in a .txt file and just copy it in.

hmm. So this is what it looked like when I reapplied the thermal paste the first time: http://imgur.com/gallery/KOxmf

(i put a bit too much) It seems like it made good contact, right?

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