Jump to content

HEX GEAR R80 Prototype No. 2

p0Pe

Hey guys and girls! Welcome to another ATX worklog before I start do some smaller builds again (size wise)

 

TGzzwDi.jpg

 

This will be a somewhat strange worklog, as this build is already complete. I am showing it now as I have not had time to put it up sooner.
This build was a show-rig I did for the Gigabyte Suite at computex 2016, and some of you might already have seen it on facebook or youtube, but for the ones of you that has not, I will make a full worklog here. 

To give you a glimpse of what you are going to be seeing in this worklog, I have posted the final filling video here below:

 

 

 

For this build I made a complete sidepanel with integrated cable routing and water routing channels. All cables beside the pump cables runs into this plate, and is neatly routed to the PSU.
The side panel is made from a 25 mm thick acrylic plate that has been CNC machined to make room for the watercooilng and cables.

 

Specs:

  • Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-X99-ULTRA Gaming
  • Graphic cards: Gigabyte 980TI G1 gaming
  • CPU: Intel i7 6900K
  • SSD: Intel 750 400 gb PCIe ssd
  • RAM: 32 gb corsair Vengeance 3000 mhz
  • PSU: Corsair HX1200i
  • Case: Hex Gear R80
  • Watercooling: EK waterblocks
  • Fittings: Bitspower
  • Tubing: E22 solid tubing

First update will come tonight, and they will then roll steadily over the next few weeks as I have time to put them up!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, TravisB said:

Followed :D

Glad to have you on board:D

 

I did not have time to edit all the pictures I took of this build before I went off to Computex, so I will upload them here as I get them sorted and edited! :) Gonna be a quick worklog as the build is already done, but I know that most of you enjoy seeing the WIP of these builds as well! To start off, here is the motherboard and graphic card this entire build is based around. Unreleased at the time I got it, and a proper beast of a board!

 

52NiCa4.jpg

 

jEG7dpQ.jpg

 

oYaLbNS.jpg

 

c1CaNcx.jpg

 

rUyRAQa.jpg

 

fRzyvWY.jpg

 

ohoYHqi.jpg

 

0ZyZ7sw.jpg

 

iPyj6MS.jpg

 

r4IwxNB.jpg

 

More to come soon!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Since I saw that video I wanted to build my own itx case with a acrylic sidewindow/cabelrouting/tubing panel, just because it looks badass. Unfortunately I can't afford such a project :/.

 Good job with the build, I really like it. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, Infin8 said:

Since I saw that video I wanted to build my own itx case with a acrylic sidewindow/cabelrouting/tubing panel, just because it looks badass. Unfortunately I can't afford such a project :/.

 Good job with the build, I really like it. 

If you learn to draw in 3D yourself, it can be done somewhat cheap, and is certainly affordable if you prioritize it. But the money spent only really gives you looks, and a slight functionality boost, so for most people, it is not worth it.

7 hours ago, Darkmatter35 said:

Anyone know why the Hex Gear R40 is unavailable ?

The last batch was sold out in a day or so. More will be available soon, but to get more specific info, try and send an email.

4 hours ago, starwarsguy99 said:

Nice job with the colours, it looks perfect

Thanks man! I will try and get another update up tonight, and it will be an interesting one! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

So lets get to the fun part! I wanted to make something like I did for the Engineering station, but I also wanted to incoorporate some cable manegement into the distro plate itself. The finished plate has around 150 screws to seal it all off! These pictures are taken straight after milling, so no polishing or anything yet.

First off a few renders of how everything will be added together. This is not just a simple 2 plates bolted together, but a nightmare of different parts that all has to fit VERY tightly together.

 

9CqLPyQ.jpg

 

cxzcX9V.jpg

 

From right to left is:

 

  • 25 mm milled plate - this is the main plate where all the channels for the wires, and the fluid has been milled into. The loop will be a dual loop, so two separate pumps sits and has each their channels.
  • 6 mm lasercut clear acrylic - These small bits and pieces where "helping pieces" that gave me the option of securing some of the cables as I went along and put them into the main plate.The cables all sit incredibly tight, so without these, they would simply pop out the moment I let them go. These mounts before the main sealing plate, so that I could put in the cables before putting in o-rings, and covering the hole thing up. Putting in the cables and o-rings on the same time, and get everything to sit as tight as it does here would be near impossible.
  • 6 mm lasercut clear acrylic - This is the main cover plate that holes all the fluid channels sealed. This mounts after all the cables has been put in, and helps a little with holding the cables tightly in place.
  • 3 mm lasercut white acrylic - This plate is only there to act as a "distancer" between the main acrylic assembly and the case itself. The case has tiny captive nuts that sticks out of the panel a few mm, and the main acrylic plate has been put together with dome head bolts, so if I just bolted the two together, the bolts would scrape up against the case itself. This is also why there is so many somewhat big holes in the white plate.
  • 5 mm lasercut red frosted acrylic - This piece is where the pumps are mounted, and again acts as a distancer between the pumps and the acrylic plate, so the pumps does not hit any of the dome head bolts.

 

All in all a nightmare to put together, and it could have been done way smarter, but that would have meant that it would not have looked just as good.

 

KWonlba.jpg

 

And this is the main plate. A lot of material was taken off this, and the channels are quite deep

.

MXjrmTq.jpg

 

s4fAum3.jpg

 

UEhbEFZ.jpg

 

hIy7SKD.jpg

 

UEhbEFZ.jpg

 

Finished milling without polishing.

 

NVcu2MF.jpg

 

xU7WJYq.jpg

 

And a test of how the cables would fit. As you can see there is basicly no extra space, so the cables are sitting incredibly tight in the milled slot.

That is it for now, next up will be more cabling!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Loved this build from the minute I first saw it, hyped to see a log! Thanks p0Pe!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Str8f4c3 said:

Loved this build from the minute I first saw it, hyped to see a log! Thanks p0Pe!

 

4 hours ago, colinreay said:

A build from p0Pe is a build I like!

 

Glad to have you on board:D I am quite excited to be showing of the WIP of this build as I have mostly only showed the final pictures here and there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites


Update time again!

 

Time to get some cables into the distro plate, and get it all done. I got quite a few pictures of this progress as it took SO damn long! I also made a mistake in the 3D file for the distro plate that forced me into manually make a tiny tiny acrylic piece. Who needs a cnc or a laser cutte when you are desperate and low on time:D

 

jMWs1dr.jpg

 

Some of the small parts that will help hold everything together.

 

AwIrbzi.jpg

 

I went with classic black and red for this project. Normally I really like using the Fusion sleeving from Teleios, but I thought that this would look better trough the distro plate.

 

nA3qzLI.jpg

 

This is the lasercut 6 mm plate that will hold all the fluid channels tight, and also keep the cables in place.

 

3xFdLZl.jpg

 

Had to manually tap G1/4" holes in them to support standard fittings.

 

qqdYuDZ.jpg

 

Lots and lots of holes to keep the o-ring channels tight!

 

UhqEICX.jpg

 

Around 150 screws all in all. Glad that I did not have to tap all those holes manually!

 

tiLYjOJ.jpg

 

The pumps will be mounted directly to the distro plate, with a piece of 5 mm acrylic in between.

 

dSpm0nt.jpg

 

The small piece you saw in the first picture holds the 8 pin power wires down so that they slide under the graphic card wires. There is actually 4 layers of cables, the first two is the 24 pin + 8 pin, and the next two is the graphic cards.

 

rGN36mg.jpg

 

The start of the nightmare! I only just made enough room for the cables to be in, so everything has to be squeezed into place!

 

VnnvkFU.jpg

 

Graphic cards done. You can see that I made some small acrylic pieces to hold them down until I got the main plate on. Without these it would be impossible to keep the wires in the channels.

 

YYo5G4i.jpg

 

Here you can better see how the graphic card cables goes over the 24 and 8 pin cables.

 

j3Wy4Ni.jpg

 

So. Many. Wires! I am actually super glad that I did not go 4 way SLI on this build!

 

6OhOTx0.jpg

 

To keep everything down on the top side I needed some help in the form of a couple of clamps.

 

YiZuw4l.jpg

 

And here is when I noticed that I messed up... I made the arc in the acrylic bigger than it should have been, so there is a gab between the cables and the acrylic wall. Leaving it like this would make the cables loose, which I did not want.

 

lv6ho5i.jpg

 

I could have gotten a new piece lasercut, but I was low on time, so I had to figure something out.

 

LHBpthB.jpg

 

Lots of sanding, dremeling, and cursing helped me make this thing.

 

4bqaiiv.jpg

 

Cutting and sanding acrylic in itself is not really that hard, but when it is pieces this small, that has to be SO precise, it starts to become fun.

 

cVvSBM6.jpg

 

A few hours later.

 

jB6y84J.jpg

 

Lots of time, but worth it!

 

U6Oux3a.jpg

 

Like a glove!

 

sPwgSbQ.jpg

 

I had to take the connectors off the cables for the next step as there was not a lot of room to work with.

 

YpEgaST.jpg

 

Down goes the 6 mm plate, and now just to keep everything in place while securing this!

 

7QqG5OC.jpg

 

This plate is going to tighten both the o-rings and the cables down, so quite a few things needed to be perfectly in place before putting it down. I could have made it out of multiple small plates, but what is the fun in that.

 

SSZuOYe.jpg

 

611Ul3B.jpg

 

Everything done!

 

SLGngC1.jpg

 

Now just to mount it on the case itself!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 6/10/2016 at 0:50 AM, Str8f4c3 said:

O.o

:D

On 6/10/2016 at 1:33 AM, ppolicherla91 said:

holy balls

Only the p0Pe has them!

7 hours ago, potoooooooo said:

Ugh. Too bad this is so impractical for us normal PC enthusiasts

It is super impractical, and hard to make, but this one is actually not that bad once made and put together. Swapping out hardware is super easy, and even more so if you switch to soft tubing. The graphic cards should just not have more that 2x8 pin power connectors, and then you can just upgrade away:D

 

Not that I would advice anyone with upgrade thoughts to make something like this, but just saying it is not a complete disaster should one want to put in a new graphic card in a year or two.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, p0Pe said:

 

It is super impractical, and hard to make, but this one is actually not that bad once made and put together. Swapping out hardware is super easy, and even more so if you switch to soft tubing. The graphic cards should just not have more that 2x8 pin power connectors, and then you can just upgrade away:D

 

Not that I would advice anyone with upgrade thoughts to make something like this, but just saying it is not a complete disaster should one want to put in a new graphic card in a year or two.

Good luck finding a motherboard with identical EPS and 24 pin as well

 

I'm a slut for new motherboards so i could never use something like this is in my main build

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 7/10/2016 at 10:17 AM, belfouf said:

impressive...

Thanks!

On 7/10/2016 at 0:12 PM, Yahtadi said:

Definately porn

Hah, good thing it has not gotten caught in the filter then.

On 7/10/2016 at 4:39 PM, potoooooooo said:

Good luck finding a motherboard with identical EPS and 24 pin as well

 

I'm a slut for new motherboards so i could never use something like this is in my main build

Not really sure what you mean here. Almost all boards are using a 24 pin connector, and most boards uses a single 8 pin EPS connector. Them being in a different location than the ones on this board would not matter all that much. The cables would still be able to go in, and would still look great.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

This update shows how I mounted the distro plate to the actual case, and also a lot of the cable work needed to make everything just perfect.

 

il2Qvdd.jpg

 

 

No matter how well you plan, there will almost always be manual cutting work involved unless you get everything lasercut and painted elsewhere.

 

mKgoTVC.jpg

 

This white piece of 3 mm acrylic has a few different uses. First off, it will make it so that the back of the case with all the cutouts are not visible trough the distro plate, but only white is visible. Secondly, it serves as a standoff for the screws holding the distro plate together, and the rear of the case.

 

CbB2rVT.jpg

 

Mounted on top of the distro plate.

 

sDaicFf.jpg

 

The cables runs VERY tightly under the 6 mm plate on top of the distro plate.

 

kUafvE2.jpg

 

With fancy light.

 

rrAweNL.jpg

 

And covered by the last 3 mm plate.

 

UEH1mFh.jpg

 

Another fancy pancy shot.

 

ArNzigc.jpg

 

This is why I refered to the white plexi as a distance piece.

 

4S6ypBn.jpg

 

24 pin for the motherboard routed to the board itself. I had to tighten each individual wire by pulling it from the "outgoing" end of the distro plate.
This had to be done a tiny bit at a time to make all the cables fit nicely.

 

rHbsMoC.jpg

 

GPU's mounted with the chrome backplate on.

 

Bxdk1gD.jpg

 

Next up is the GPU cables. I really wished this pc was built with 1080's as they only have 1x8 pin power connector, but sadly it was built before those came out.

 

Iw1JDIf.jpg

 

Putting the cable combs in place, and putting connectors on.

 

p6ldq1p.jpg

 

And then routing the cable into place, and repeating the "cable pulling" step as also done to the 24 pin.

 

lw3XZBN.jpg

 

all main cables done!

 

kW9Xk3F.jpg

 

Testing with rear and top radiator panel to see if everything was as it should be.

 

pxE3PVh.jpg

 

Pumps also fits in quite nicely.

 

wdYxoHn.jpg

 

Next up is making the PSU end of the cables. This will be the "messy" end, but also the least visible one.

 

More coming up soon!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

O . O

-  .  -

O . O

 

So amazing! This triggers so many ideas right now haha.

When i saw this picture i was kinda sad it would be coverd  up on the pc side, then when it was further assembled i understood.

Quote

sDaicFf.jpg

 

 

Cooler master HAF XB // First build!


Motherboard: MSI-990FXA-GD65 | CPU: AMD FX-8350  | CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i | RAM: 16GB Crucial Ballistix Sport 1600Mhz | GPU: SAPPHIRE TRI-X R9 290 4GB OC | Case: Cooler master XB | PSU: Corsair RM750 | 


HDD: 3.5 TB | SSD: Kingston SSDNow V300 60GB | OS: Windows 8.1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 30/10/2016 at 5:19 PM, C1Rob said:

O . O

-  .  -

O . O

 

So amazing! This triggers so many ideas right now haha.

When i saw this picture i was kinda sad it would be coverd  up on the pc side, then when it was further assembled i understood.

 

 

 

Haha yeah, it would be a real shame to cover it all up!

 

Time to get this one finished up, so expect the last couple of updates to come in quickly!

 

f2E5Fd2.jpg

 

After all the cables had been routed properly from the graphic cards and so on, it was time to get them nicely tucked into the PSU. This is the hardest part, as you have to be very precise when doing so.

I start out by putting cable combs on the cables so they stay in a nice bended line, and I then cut all of the cables off in a straight line, so they have the right length.

 

Hcojftb.jpg

 

After I have put the terminal on the cables, I only need one thing, and that is to connect some of the cables. 
This differs from power supply to power supply, but some cables splits out into two cables. So these has to be soldered together, and have heatshrink aplied to them.

 

kMJ6kln.jpg

 

This is how they look after soldering, and ready to have heatshrink aplied to cover it up.

 

ZH49spW.jpg

 

And with heatshrink on. As well as a small piece of plastic to protect the rest of the cables from gunk when soldering.

 

VSXHff0.jpg

 

Nice and tidy!

 

f7Bs6vd.jpg

 

Now this is a classic example on why just cutting a bunch of cables in the same length will not work in complicated builds like this. After all the bends and twists the cables go trough, they variate wildly in length on this end.

So always make one end first, and then cut the other end to length and crimp that end.

 

Veohi8n.jpg

 

All done! This is also one of the processes that takes the longest to do as there is not exactly a lot of space to work with.

 

aQ0DJpP.jpg

 

I would always reccomend people to either test out their sleeving with a PSU tester, or a multimeter when done. No matter how good you are, we all make mistakes sometimes.

 

NzWXgVr.jpg

 

Everything mounted, and up and standing!

 

6DJHBQW.jpg

 

I must admit that I am quite proud of this one:D

 

gnS92Vu.jpg

 

Next up is mounting some fittings and tubes!

 

ruBAkLC.jpg

 

The GPU cables could not be run with the 180 degree combs that I have used in my previous builds as it would simply be impossible to take the graphic cards out after mounting then, as the cables would be insanely tight.

 

A4xOd2V.jpg

 

Just need to sleeve the pump cables now!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×