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About iFreilicht

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  1. There's also G20, which I think is even lower than DSA. Not really popular, though.
  2. Jup, TheRandomness is correct, otherwise I'd've done it already Don't give up hope yet! Thanks man, much appreciated!
  3. Thanks for the kind words, I appreciate it! Good thinking on your part, and I'm thankful for your concern. Rest assured that I've already done this. Since July, I've not worked much on this and I started to contemplate this step a couple of months ago. I'm glad to give it somebody else, I know a few people who I trust to be able to bring this to life in a professional and community-facing manner. Everybody wins in this situation
  4. Final update. I've got some bad news for all of you. Hereby, I am stalling this project. At this point, I have zero motivation to continue this, and that means it would not become the product I wanted it to be in the beginning. Its quality could not be good enough for my standards, software updates would be delayed, as well as manufacturing and shipping, even support would be far below what one could call acceptable. Everything that you've heard about a bad crowdfunded product would be absolutely unavoidable if I tried to continue this. I now understand exactly why that
  5. It is much appreciated! If I'm lucky, I'll get two free weeks until New Year, so that should really help me pick up the pace. Thanks a bunch! I keep forgetting that posting more often also means more people will find this thread. I should work on that as well. You're welcome!
  6. Switches are not directional, so you can try bending the two prongs directly onto the bottom face of the switch, turn it around by 180° and solder it without putting them through the solder holes. This may not work for multiple reasons or (if you're unlucky) it may even change the feel of the switch, so definitely try it on some leftover switches before attempting anything of the sort.
  7. So just a short note where I'm standing right now: I've started to get back into the software side of things, and it's looking better every day. There's now a python (command line) application that allows to download configurations from the Iris 16 and I'm now working on making uploading work as well. The main goal is to have most of the work done by the visualizer and the Iris itself, so that it's easy to write client applications that interface with them. This means that the firmware is starting to get close the micro's limits, I'm already at 80% Flash usage for the program code
  8. Oh that sounds even worse than I imagined. I also found these "landing pads". I think if @TheresaS179 got something like that, but made from acrylic or metal, she'd get the desired effect. Should be relatively simple to draw something up in inkscape and send it to ponoko for laser cutting.
  9. Sorry guys, nothing to show. I have very little time to work on this right now, so progress has been frustratingly slow I don't even have time to visit the forums anymore, my last visit here was months ago. I'll try and free up time when my current project at work is finished.
  10. Hm, I would've suggested putting something inside the switch, but that would require you to desolder all switches on the board. The WASD rings are indeed quite thin because they are mainly for dampening the bottom hit, not travel reduction. 0.2mm are about 7.9mil and 0.4mm are about 15.7mil, so like 8/100ths and 16/100ths of an inch. You don't have to search on WASD for O-rings though, you can also just google the specs you need. Keycap stems are a touch above 5.5mm in diameter, so O-rings with inner diameter of 5mm should work.
  11. Every now and then a good macropad or programmable numpad is sold on massdrop, so definitely keep your eyes open on there if you want a dedicated device. What I would suggest on trying first, though, is using AutoHotKey to set your numpad up as a macropad. So every button on the numpad could be a macro function if NumLock is disabled. Cheapest and very flexible solution. That's this one, right? Love the layout on that, looks quite interesting. What do the SF-keys do on modern systems? Or is that just F13-F24? Not personally, but I can tell you wha
  12. This is the #1 reason for RGB, in my book anyway. You can match the lighting to your other equipment much easier than if you had to swap the LEDs out. I do think individually addressable LEDs on each key are a bit of an overkill, though nobody forces you to use that. Damn that looks awesome. Do you have any sort of build log or parts list?
  13. Sorry guys, been very busy lately. I'll try to help everyone best as I can! What you're searching for is a "high profile" case for a TKL board. The problem with TKLs is that they are not built to any particular standard, unlike 60% which all have the same mounting holes for the case, so you might indeed have to do some modding. Some good cases can be found here: https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=search_list&s[match]=all&s[search]=TKL&s[title]=Y&s[short_desc]=Y&s[full_desc]=Y&s[cid]=44&s[subcats]=Y&s[mid]=0 The ones fro
  14. Cool, how did you get the camouflage print? Was it sold like that, did you get a vinyl wrap, was it painted? Damn, what a board. 100g is pretty darn heavy, but I'm sure the bump must feel amazing. Do you have a KLE link showing which weights are on which keys? The case is pretty cool as well, where'd you get that? Any info on the Artisan? Why did you put it on ESC instead of where F5 is now? About the Amber Alps, can you compare them to Gateron Greens by any chance?
  15. Haha sorry, I'm cross-posting these updates on different forums and the audience is a little different on all of them. Some appreciate me going into a little more detail