Mechanical Keyboard Club!

[Dallas]

On 3/7/2016 at 1:26 PM, Vox_Lusa said:

I took this photo the other day when I had some free time during a Saturday.

The chocolate was a bonus hehe.

 

The keyboard is a Turtle Beach Impact 500 with Cherry MX Blues (looks very much like a Filco Majestouch 2 for some reason...).

I just got this keyboard today. How did you remove the Turtle Beach branding off the keyboard?

 

My collection:

Ducky Shine 4 [MX Brown]

Turtle Beach Impact 500 [MX Blue]

Rapoo KX [Kailh Yellow]

 

[spwath]

5 hours ago, KaminKevCrew said:

The bottom row is why I said good luck. It's impossible to find any really nice sets for the 'gamer' style boards.

You could, but it woould get expensive. My custom layout i got Keycaps for, but has to spend 115$, and there Will be a bunch of wasted Keycaps

[Ramrod126]

7 hours ago, KaminKevCrew said:

The bottom row is why I said good luck. It's impossible to find any really nice sets for the 'gamer' style boards.

Yeah, I see that now. The one thing that is seriously irritating me about this keyboard is that the lighting button and windows key lockout button seem to be impossible to change the colors on.

[spwath]

Welp, there goes 75$, ordered 80 purple zealios for my keyboard.

[Giteau]

21 hours ago, Dallas said:

I just got this keyboard today. How did you remove the Turtle Beach branding off the keyboard?

 

My collection:

Ducky Shine 4 [MX Brown]

Turtle Beach Impact 500 [MX Blue]

Rapoo KX [Kailh Yellow]

 

Unfortunately you can't. Unless you sand it off - so you will then have to cover it up with paint. That's a generic top shell, and so many companies that use it, put their branding in that spot which I dislike lol.

[iamdarkyoshi]

I can finally say that I have joined the club!

 

Rocking a Compaq MX 11800 with Cherry MX Browns. I love it. Downside is that I STILL DONT HAVE A DAMN WINDOWS KEY

[Charger]

7 hours ago, spwath said:

Welp, there goes 75$, ordered 80 purple zealios for my keyboard.

Nice you will have some nice looking switches until you hide them with keycaps anyways

[spwath]

5 hours ago, Charger said:

Nice you will have some nice looking switches until you hide them with keycaps anyways

Yeah. Now i think I'll need some new solder that's thinner, recommend any?

[GamerDude]

Whoa, after a long hiatus, I'd caved and bought an Armaggeddon MKA-5R RGB Hornet, I've eyeing it recently, and it was on sale today in my neck of the woods (about 15% off). Snagged it together with an Armaggeddon SRO-5 Havoc III RGB mouse (Avago A3310) as I like its feel, and it was on sale as well. Yes, I'm aware that the Hornet employs Kailh switch (Kailh Blue) but it looks so purdy and I like the aluminum top plate on it.....

[Charger]

2 hours ago, spwath said:

Yeah. Now i think I'll need some new solder that's thinner, recommend any?

i tend to just use some thinner rosin core solder right now I have around 2lb of solder that I got from @TheProfosist so I'm sure he has better recommendations than me.

[TheProfosist]

4 minutes ago, Charger said:

i tend to just use some thinner rosin core solder right now I have around 2lb of solder that I got from @TheProfosist so I'm sure he has better recommendations than me.

 

That solder I sold you is probably the best leaded solder available excluding silver solder. If you want lead free there is something very similar from the same brand. What I send @Charger is Kester 44 63/37 If you want silver solder let me know its far more expensive but depending what board your building possibly worth it. Its what I sent @Charger to build the LZ-GH and eventually TGR-Jane with.

[Charger]

1 minute ago, TheProfosist said:

 

That solder I sold you is probably the best leaded solder available excluding silver solder. If you want lead free there is something very similar from the same brand. What I send @Charger is Kester 44 63/37 If you want silver solder let me know its far more expensive but depending what board your building possibly worth it. Its what I sent @Charger to build the LZ-GH and eventually TGR-Jane with.

he is doing a full custom build as I recall so no pcb other then some teensys.

[TheProfosist]

2 minutes ago, Charger said:

he is doing a full custom build as I recall so no pcb other then some teensys.

so then umm might be worth going silver if he's will in to pay

 

This WBT is what I personally use though is too thick for SMD but is fine for switches http://goo.gl/V9VUuw

for reference the Kester 44 I normally get is 0.020 where the WBT is 0.09

 

another one that some people say is better is Cardas Quad Eutectic but I cant find a place that regularly stocks it. they have both leaded and non http://goo.gl/QAxywK

this place has it but is discontinuing it http://goo.gl/D6ZOmk

its available in 0.032 which is rather nice though still a touch big for SMD in my opinion at least

 

then kinda bottom of the barrel when it comes to silver solder is this Kester 44 http://goo.gl/qoBoJD

that is mostly due to its rather low silver content

 

 

[Charger]

12 minutes ago, TheProfosist said:

so then umm might be worth going silver if he's will in to pay

 

This WBT is what I personally use though is too thick for SMD but is fine for switches http://goo.gl/V9VUuw

for reference the Kester 44 I normally get is 0.020 where the WBT is 0.09

 

another one that some people say is better is Cardas Quad Eutectic but I cant find a place that regularly stocks it. they have both leaded and non http://goo.gl/QAxywK

this place has it but is discontinuing it http://goo.gl/D6ZOmk

its available in 0.032 which is rather nice though still a touch big for SMD in my opinion at least

 

then kinda bottom of the barrel when it comes to silver solder is this Kester 44 http://goo.gl/qoBoJD

that is mostly due to its rather low silver content

 

 

I think I would recommend some cheaper solder rather than the more expensive silver solder. Lead solder is nice because of its lower melting point.

[TheProfosist]

Just now, Charger said:

I think I would recommend some cheaper solder rather than the more expensive silver solder. Lead solder is nice because of its lower melting point.

correct which is why I originally recommended the Kester 44 63/37 .020 which is what I sent you. If he wanted lead free ill have to look up the equivalent because I don't remember it off hand.

[iamdarkyoshi]

4 hours ago, spwath said:

Yeah. Now i think I'll need some new solder that's thinner, recommend any?

Multicore brand solder is my favorite. Its expensive but well worth it. Get the thinnest non lead free solder you can find. Also both keyboards work great! Had to do some switch repair, but oh well. Also the beige keyboard is far easier to desolder switches from, desoldering braid works fine. Its a single layer board so no through hole plating.

[MaxxPing]

I have been using a Roccat Ryos Mk pro for some time now and am rather happy with it. The only problem I have is I have had no problems; so no reason ta pull it apart or mod it

http://www.roccat.org/en-AU/Products/Gaming-Keyboards/Ryos-Series/Ryos-MK-Pro/

[spwath]

21 hours ago, TheProfosist said:

correct which is why I originally recommended the Kester 44 63/37 .020 which is what I sent you. If he wanted lead free ill have to look up the equivalent because I don't remember it off hand.

And leaded solder is fine as long as i don't eat it or mix it with my blood, and wash hands afterword?

[TheProfosist]

On 3/11/2016 at 5:42 AM, spwath said:

And leaded solder is fine as long as i don't eat it or mix it with my blood, and wash hands afterword?

 

Perfect fine and easier to work with. Cant be used in industry due to recycling reasons. And yeah dont like poke a hole in your vain and stuff a strand in (might actually be thin enough)

[spwath]

2 minutes ago, TheProfosist said:

 

Perfect fine and easier to work with. Cant be used in industry due to recycling reasons. And yeah dont like poke a hole in your vain and stuff a strand in (might actually be thin enough)

OK great, so i should get this:

http://www.amazon.com/Kester-Rosin-Core-Solder-Spool/dp/B00068IJWC

Though I dont need that much...

[TheProfosist]

2 minutes ago, spwath said:

OK great, so i should get this:

http://www.amazon.com/Kester-Rosin-Core-Solder-Spool/dp/B00068IJWC

Though I dont need that much...

yep. that is what I use and what I sold @Charger pretty sure most of GeekHack and deskthority use that you used to be a ble to get a smaller rool off a big spool from geekhackers.org but theyre out. https://goo.gl/lw1DRX

 

I mean I guess I could roll you some but youd be getting way less for the money

 

[spwath]

Just now, TheProfosist said:

yep. that is what I use and what I sold @Charger pretty sure most of GeekHack and deskthority use that you used to be a ble to get a smaller rool off a big spool from geekhackers.org but theyre out. https://goo.gl/lw1DRX

 

I mean I guess I could roll you some but youd be getting way less for the money

 

Yeah, i might as well get 1 pound, ill use it eventually, always good to have extra

[Charger]

4 minutes ago, spwath said:

Yeah, i might as well get 1 pound, ill use it eventually, always good to have extra

as someone who has 2 pounds of solder... sure you will 

[spwath]

1 minute ago, Charger said:

as someone who has 2 pounds of solder... sure you will 

Hmm, just relized my current roll i have is 3oz.

Or about .19 lbs... a pound is a lot of solder...

But should be better than my .05" lead free radioshack solder

[TheProfosist]

2 minutes ago, Charger said:

as someone who has 2 pounds of solder... sure you will 

 

Hey at least you know you can solder all the things now!