Jump to content

[ Case Mod ] Powertosh i5 / Powermac G5 watercooled Hackintosh

perestrojka

So much pornography :D

 

Will you paint the Mark 1 ,lets say , a metalic silver/white/grey to match the case colour?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Nono :) I will paint the case in matte black ( and use matte white for some of the smaller stuff ).

Connectors and sleeving will be also in combination of white / black.

I wanted to buy Mark S and use white paint job scheme, but they were out of stock, so i went with Mark 1 and black scheme.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

More pics of the PSU please, some pics of the cables would be nice too.

"The of and to a in is I that it for you was with on as have but be they"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

More pics of the PSU please, some pics of the cables would be nice too.

I've got pretty much the same pack as here: 

I'll post some pictures of the cables when i sleeve them :)

Because posting pictures that are all over the net, is useless in this worklog ( IMO ). I hate when people take pictures of their boxes, and then put million of pictures of the same part from thousand of different angles. I'am focused mostly on work, and less on taking pictures of hardware i bought :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I finally finished front cover perforation, i still need to smooth / sand it before primer spraying :) 

3EOa8mpl.jpg

 

HDjMggnl.jpg


Today i had a little bit of time to cut mbo tray mount and to create screws from original Apple's mbo mounts.

N4E3xeUl.jpg

 

vS2xX13l.jpg

 

m3TaelDl.jpg

 

3trN8zvl.jpg

 

RsgBcPKl.jpg

 

 

Preparation for mbo tray holders epoxy treatment.

 

BLJZlRel.jpg

 

tqt8SUrl.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Small update :)

MBO tray holders are placed / epoxied to their spots

HfUoiIhl.jpg

 

Er9LSfMl.jpg

 

pDRrDYIl.jpg

 

cZMzn8hl.jpg

 

 

MBO tray and component placement test

 

rZmp5hOl.jpg


This is upper part of the case measured for radiator holder mount placement.

 

9ilqsOql.jpg

 

Nuts got roughening treatment for better grip.

iSDtWOZl.jpg


Case spots got it as well.

RwNhJmOl.jpg 

 

t6LoGOnl.jpg

 

 

Improvised mount spots :)

BK9brqal.jpg

sbMQkB7l.jpg

yz6LkT2l.jpg

IvwrQJql.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

GPU Idle

 

bINqEAfl.jpg

 

CPU + GPU load / GPU temps

 

fcP4ox5l.jpg

CPU Idle

SBl2TVtl.jpg

 

CPU + GPU load / CPU temps
 

BvrzJEHl.jpg

:D

I had to connect everything to see the temps. Also pump is a bit noisy, so i ordered PWM PCB from DIYINHK so i can connect it to the MBO 4pin header and arrange some settings in Thermal Radar for auto regulation :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I had to push my GPU to see where the limits are :)

Default 

GPU 860 / MEM 1200 / Vgpu 1.138V

Overclocked

GPU 1235 / MEM 1490 / Vgpu 1.225V / Power limit +50%
 
1k9WVn3l.gif
 
QXo4ZSYl.jpg
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Today I've got sponsorship packet from Icemodz ( www.icemodz.com ). 
 
Ty Icemodz !

28 meters of white sleeving
8 meters of black sleeving
MBO 24wire cable holder
ATX pin removal tools set.
 
xF8EFSZl.jpg
 
qcLzpKSl.jpg
 
0aurd4Cl.jpg
 
1JFBIUql.jpg
 
 
Sleeving color scheme for 24/8/6 pin cables
 
EvPAg0Ml.png
 
Planned sata and molex color scheme
 
Sata: 3-1-1 ( white-black-white )
 
Molex: 2-1-1 ( white-black-white )
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thats a solid OC on the GPU grats on that.

"The of and to a in is I that it for you was with on as have but be they"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thats a solid OC on the GPU grats on that.

Ty mate! :) I plan to volt mod that 7850 card and go for 1.3V, maybe even 1.35V 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yesterday i got some presents again, this time from DIYINHK.com.

I've ordered PWM Control 18W PCB for DDC pump ( http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/ddc-pump/41-laing-ddc-pump-18w-repair-pcb-wled-smd-soldered-mcp355.html )because there is no need for the pump to run on max rpm 0/24, and i wanted to use benefits of Sabertooth 4-pin headers and ASUS's Thermal radar control. 

So, here it is:

Upgrade PCB kit with blue LEDs.

f4kpAw7l.jpg?1 

jd1N4ADl.jpg

JJFjBiHl.jpg


System was flushed out and disassembled and pump is ready for her upgrade :)

2rh8SF1l.jpg

7LicXRul.jpg?1


New PCB is slightly smaller than original one

KyxGHihl.jpg?1


Old PCB dissasembled

ByDWSIbl.jpg?1


Stator coil 

tTQ1tGNl.jpg?1


Old VS New PCB

fEnwIEel.jpg?1

qnJW34kl.jpg?1

We can clearly see how far technology went in just 10 years, that single IC and a few diodes on new PCB are replacing bunch of ICs and semiconductors from the old PCB.

Also new PCB is made out of 4 layers, vs 2 layer on old one. This is a huge benefit in form of power delivery to the coils itself and it is more prone to pcb burnout due copper current limitation old boards had ( copper lines on the board were too small and too resistant, aka they were limiting max current that can flow into the coils, and when users placed those pumps into restrictive loops, stator demanded more and more current to maintain desired RPMs )

In that upgrade kit i've also received 4 blue LEDs and 2 SMD resistors, but as i don't own transparent top + i hate blue LEDs inside of a computer ( they are too much redneck-ish  :D ) i won't use them.

3m5FwTWl.jpg

R2 and R3 are locations for those 2 resistors, and D1,D2,D3 & D4 are places where you should solder LEDs if you wish. 

FgXy3bel.jpg


PCB contacts treated with solder for easier soldering of stator and power / control wires.

a0QypHrl.jpg

IMPnzZXl.jpg


Stator pulled out from pump's casing, i did this for easier wire preparation.

OPmXLxvl.jpg


Total of 6 coils with 2 wires, so i had to cut 6 exact wire pairs.

64t1vfOl.jpg


Preparation is the key of everything ( 85% preparation + 15% work = 100% of wanted result at the end ), so i stripped wire ends and treated them with tin.

5ttq4vLl.jpg


Extension wires connected with the stator wires.

eztJ4Rcl.jpg

8LgxgG3l.jpg

mnOPIqpl.jpg

Those tiny white blobs on wire junctions are small amounts of nail polish, i used it to isolate bare connections from shorting together once the stator is placed inside of his casing and connected with PCB.

* Unfortunately i was really excited to test out the pump, so i forgot to take pictures of wires soldered on pcb, but i will take them later before final steps and project completition. *

Cables are sleeved and connected, white one is for RPM signal and PWM control that is connecting to the MBO 4-pin header, and inside the black one are 12+ and GND wires that are connected to the PSU.

LAEQ6JSl.jpg

1FasGugl.jpg

cNneBEPl.jpg




So... you guys are probably asking yourself why on earth would someone do all this job if he had perfectly ok and 100% working device  ? 

Well, i like to do diy stuff and enhance electronic devices whenever i can, someone is playing soccer, someone is riding his bike, and to me this is my satisfaction and a way of relaxation :)

Ok ok, but if we put that aside, are there really benefits of this PCB ?

YES ! :) :)

Pump is now under Sabertooth's control

Ibji1eEl.jpg

Normally pump is working @ 850RPM

5VQGMLol.jpg

I've conected 4-pin header that is controling pump's RPMs with CPU thermal sensor, so whenever CPUs temp rises a bit, pump will also speed up, to keep more of the water flowing thru cpu block.

5Ptw6bel.jpg

Temp difference between 850 and 3900 RPM is cca 2 degrees of Celsius in idle and 4 in full load, BUT noise difference between min and max RPMs  :) that is hell of a improvement and it was worth of extra 20 GBP + 2 hours of "work" ( I say "work" because i do this for fun :3 )

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

We can clearly see how far technology went in just 10 years, that single IC and a few diodes on new PCB are replacing bunch of ICs and semiconductors from the old PCB.

 

Yeah, no kidding, that new PCB looks so bare. Nice soldering btw :)

My modded Air 540 build

Spoiler

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a question,

would you be willing to share with me (or i suppose the rest of us) the digital pattern for the holes?

I've been prepping for drilling the pattern into my case, but i don't have a good pattern to use.

Specs: 4790k | Asus Z-97 Pro Wifi | MX100 512GB SSD | NZXT H440 Plastidipped Black | Dark Rock 3 CPU Cooler | MSI 290x Lightning | EVGA 850 G2 | 3x Noctua Industrial NF-F12's

Bought a powermac G5, expect a mod log sometime in 2015

Corsair is overrated, and Anime is ruined by the people who watch it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm way late to this, but I love how AT sent you a stress ball. xD

Main rig on profile

VAULT - File Server

Spoiler

Intel Core i5 11400 w/ Shadow Rock LP, 2x16GB SP GAMING 3200MHz CL16, ASUS PRIME Z590-A, 2x LSI 9211-8i, Fractal Define 7, 256GB Team MP33, 3x 6TB WD Red Pro (general storage), 3x 1TB Seagate Barracuda (dumping ground), 3x 8TB WD White-Label (Plex) (all 3 arrays in their respective Windows Parity storage spaces), Corsair RM750x, Windows 11 Education

Sleeper HP Pavilion A6137C

Spoiler

Intel Core i7 6700K @ 4.4GHz, 4x8GB G.SKILL Ares 1800MHz CL10, ASUS Z170M-E D3, 128GB Team MP33, 1TB Seagate Barracuda, 320GB Samsung Spinpoint (for video capture), MSI GTX 970 100ME, EVGA 650G1, Windows 10 Pro

Mac Mini (Late 2020)

Spoiler

Apple M1, 8GB RAM, 256GB, macOS Sonoma

Consoles: Softmodded 1.4 Xbox w/ 500GB HDD, Xbox 360 Elite 120GB Falcon, XB1X w/2TB MX500, Xbox Series X, PS1 1001, PS2 Slim 70000 w/ FreeMcBoot, PS4 Pro 7015B 1TB (retired), PS5 Digital, Nintendo Switch OLED, Nintendo Wii RVL-001 (black)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a question,

would you be willing to share with me (or i suppose the rest of us) the digital pattern for the holes?

I've been prepping for drilling the pattern into my case, but i don't have a good pattern to use.

I would just use a piece you have cut off of the back for a drill bit guides, just line up the holes and bolt it in drill and repeat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I would just use a piece you have cut off of the back for a drill bit guides, just line up the holes and bolt it in drill and repeat.

I used a jig-saw to cut out my back, i have only (relatively) small pieces, and they're all warped

Specs: 4790k | Asus Z-97 Pro Wifi | MX100 512GB SSD | NZXT H440 Plastidipped Black | Dark Rock 3 CPU Cooler | MSI 290x Lightning | EVGA 850 G2 | 3x Noctua Industrial NF-F12's

Bought a powermac G5, expect a mod log sometime in 2015

Corsair is overrated, and Anime is ruined by the people who watch it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I used a jig-saw to cut out my back, i have only (relatively) small pieces, and they're all warped

 

And what if you hold a paper on the case and use pencil to make a stencil ? It should transfer the holes on the paper and there you go. Then tape the stencil to the case and mark the holes for drilling.

My modded Air 540 build

Spoiler

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

And what if you hold a paper on the case and use pencil to make a stencil ? It should transfer the holes on the paper and there you go. Then tape the stencil to the case and mark the holes for drilling.

I considered that, but it would be far to easy to make a mistake i fear. I'd still like a pattern if possible

Specs: 4790k | Asus Z-97 Pro Wifi | MX100 512GB SSD | NZXT H440 Plastidipped Black | Dark Rock 3 CPU Cooler | MSI 290x Lightning | EVGA 850 G2 | 3x Noctua Industrial NF-F12's

Bought a powermac G5, expect a mod log sometime in 2015

Corsair is overrated, and Anime is ruined by the people who watch it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I considered that, but it would be far to easy to make a mistake i fear. I'd still like a pattern if possible

get a piece of 1/8 to 1/4 inch material(plexi glass/aluminum) bolt to the case and drill out your pattern.

That is what I might try if I don't have a piece big enough that I remove.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I didn't know this was possible, to mod the pumps. You've just made my goal of a near silent computer with passive radiators closer to becoming a reality.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Small update / tease :)


GTX 980 Phantom

DrUKAAMh.jpg

I5 4690K

BhX0R33h.jpg

GPU is already installed for benching / testing on air :)

feA6SIdh.jpg


Currently i had GTX 760 Phantom from my mate who borrowed it to me, since HD7850 died because of VRM shorting ( too much vgpu / +50% power limit is bad for cheap vrm :D  ), and considering the fact that they advertise Phantom line as colder / quieter solution is absolute lie, they get hot as hell and noisy also, but i don't know, noise tolerance varies from person to person... :(  So.. i can't wait for vrm watercooling parts, so i can put this Maxwell beast under H20 and do some proper bios tweaking / overclocking :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×