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Whole Room Water Cooling Part 5a

I've been waiting a long time to see the next part.

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Part 5a... Whats next 5b?  :D

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Regarding the very beginning of the video, you do actually have some solutions. 

 

You can honestly make your own cable for your wireless...assuming that your previous one is dead as stated

 

Buy a new connector

http://www.redco.com/Redco-SM-LK.html

 

Make sure when you solder you put the correct parts on the tip and the ring.

 

reinforce with some solid heat shrink and techflex.

http://www.redco.com/Techflex-PTN0.13.html

 

I do this for a lot of people that have the same issue you seem to be having and it works wonders. Plus you can cut the wire for you lav to the exact distance you would use it for you body.

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Why is it that whenever the guys start picking up tools and doing stuff, a part of me says "NO! YOU'RE DOING IT WRONG!"

 

I honestly feel like my friend from high school and I, given a similar budget, could have pulled this off with much less headache. Then again, bleeding that thing must be a pain in the ass.

 

Still I say they should have gone with PVC.

 

And Linus, that stuff inside the tank is probably manufacturing grease. The reason it looks so nasty is because of what happens when anti-freeze and oil mix, which with certain blends of anti-freeze, create's a wax like substance. Although as far as I was aware a few years ago, this only happens with the pink anti-freeze and not the green.

 

My suggestion for an alternate reservoir.

 

A 3 or 4 foot section of 4in. diameter PVC tubing, with an end cap and fitting on the bottom. A T connector on top. The T connector needs to be on it's side so that you can have the return line from the system coming in from the side, and a removable end cap on the very top of the reservoir for filling and bleeding.

Ketchup is better than mustard.

GUI is better than Command Line Interface.

Dubs are better than subs

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that episode kicks the drama to a whole new level...

 

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I think the main lesson in this video was that using tap water was a bad plan. They were inevitably going to get growth in that loop, especially after having left it stagnant for 4 months.

Hopefully all this will mean they do a better job at the new place lol

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I think the main lesson in this video was that using tap water was a bad plan. They were inevitably going to get growth in that loop, especially after having left it stagnant for 4 months.

Hopefully all this will mean they do a better job at the new place lol

Yeah, that's been a nagging thought for me. Usually, when filling a custom loop, one should buy purified (i.e. bottled) water. When I first heard about this, I assumed they'd go get a bunch of the big water cooler water tanks from a store.

Another thought: Buy Isopropyl alcohol in bulk, run the system off that? Or maybe even fluorinert? Although the latter option would be hella expensive...

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<<<expert here...jk...

 

What kind of antifreeze are you using?

 

 

From Wikipedia:

 

Propylene glycol, on the other hand, is considerably less toxic than ethylene glycol and may be labeled as "non-toxic antifreeze". It is used as antifreeze where ethylene glycol would be inappropriate, such as in food-processing systems or in water pipes in homes where incidental ingestion may be possible. As confirmation of its relative non-toxicity, the FDA allows propylene glycol to be added to a large number of processed foods, including ice cream, frozen custard, salad dressings and baked goods.

Propylene glycol oxidizes when exposed to air and heat, forming lactic acid.[8][9] If not properly inhibited, this fluid can be very corrosive,[citation needed] so pH buffering agents such as dipotassium phosphate, Protodin and potassium bicarbonate are often added to propylene glycol, to prevent acidic corrosion of metal components. Pre-inhibited propylene glycol solutions like Dowfrost (manufactured by Dow Chemicals, US) and Tonofrost (manufactured by Chemtex Speciality Ltd, India) can also be used instead of pure propylene glycol to prevent corrosion.

Besides cooling system corrosion, biological fouling also occurs. Once bacterial slime starts to grow, the corrosion rate of the system increases. Maintenance of systems using glycol solution includes regular monitoring of freeze protection, pH, specific gravity, inhibitor level, color, and biological contamination. Propylene glycol should be replaced when it turns a reddish color.

 

I see someone beat me to this information on page 2.

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I find it hilarious that Linus uses his phone for a flashlight and keys instead of a knife. Phones certainly *work* as a flashlight, but I find an actual flashlight superior in many ways. (doesn't kill your phone, waterproof, easy to turn on/off, adjustable brightness, has a beam instead of a wide wash)

And for keys... how many boxes do you open every day? Wouldn't it be faster to just get a knife?

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I find it hilariuos that Linus uses his phone for a flashlight and keys instead of a knife. Phones certainly *work* as a flashlight, but I find an actual flashlight superior in many ways. (doesn't kill your phone, waterproof, easy to turn on/off, adjustable brightness, has a beam instead of a wide wash)

And for keys... how many boxes do you open every day? Wouldn't it be faster to just get a knife?

 

Just let your pinky nail grow and sharpen it.  :huh:

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I find it hilarious that Linus uses his phone for a flashlight and keys instead of a knife. Phones certainly *work* as a flashlight, but I find an actual flashlight superior in many ways. (doesn't kill your phone, waterproof, easy to turn on/off, adjustable brightness, has a beam instead of a wide wash)

And for keys... how many boxes do you open every day? Wouldn't it be faster to just get a knife?

That means extra crap to carry with you all the time for the occasion where a phones flash/keys are more than likely sufficient. 

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wow, linus grew something. all joking aside, that really sucks.

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That stuff is bacteria, try making(cheaper)/buying(less effort) chlorine gas then dissolving it in the fluid.

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 Also, a custom reservoir made from stainless steel and tig welded won't have any manufacturing contamination, such as one made from aluminum or carbon steel, that has possibly been mig welded together.

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Tubing is porous and it doesn't have the same insulation that automotive hoses have. 

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Wow, what a project this has become. Sucks to be you guys, but it makes for great viewing :)

I did think anti-freeze lacked a biocide when it was mentioned, but figured I was wrong as you'd have checked..... Clearly, that was one of those things that obviously should have been checked... in hindsight but easily missed during initial investigation (they usually happen).

LOL @ the diss to some commentors. That seems to be happening a bit of late, makes me chuckle.

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<<<expert here...jk...

 

What kind of antifreeze are you using?

 

 

From Wikipedia:

 

Propylene glycol, on the other hand, is considerably less toxic than ethylene glycol and may be labeled as "non-toxic antifreeze". It is used as antifreeze where ethylene glycol would be inappropriate, such as in food-processing systems or in water pipes in homes where incidental ingestion may be possible. As confirmation of its relative non-toxicity, the FDA allows propylene glycol to be added to a large number of processed foods, including ice cream, frozen custard, salad dressings and baked goods.

Propylene glycol oxidizes when exposed to air and heat, forming lactic acid.[8][9] If not properly inhibited, this fluid can be very corrosive,[citation needed] so pH buffering agents such as dipotassium phosphate, Protodin and potassium bicarbonate are often added to propylene glycol, to prevent acidic corrosion of metal components. Pre-inhibited propylene glycol solutions like Dowfrost (manufactured by Dow Chemicals, US) and Tonofrost (manufactured by Chemtex Speciality Ltd, India) can also be used instead of pure propylene glycol to prevent corrosion.

Besides cooling system corrosion, biological fouling also occurs. Once bacterial slime starts to grow, the corrosion rate of the system increases. Maintenance of systems using glycol solution includes regular monitoring of freeze protection, pH, specific gravity, inhibitor level, color, and biological contamination. Propylene glycol should be replaced when it turns a reddish color.

 

I see someone beat me to this information on page 2.

Don't forget that certain types of Anti-freeze, when mixed with oils, and heated, basically turns into a waxy substance.

Ketchup is better than mustard.

GUI is better than Command Line Interface.

Dubs are better than subs

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As said by T3397 on YouTube, this is a bacterial infection. It happens.
 

It is incredibly easy to clean out to, since you already have the piping and pumps set up.

Look into a product called National Chemicals Beer Line Cleaner. It is used in the brewing community to clean out lines and kegs of caked on deposits, bacterial and yeast films, etc.

 

http://smile.amazon.com/National-Chemical-Cleaner-Kegerators-Bottle/dp/B0038NKDRG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1423072804&sr=8-1&keywords=beer+alkaline+cleaner

It will remove EVERYTHING from the lines, pumps, and reservoirs.

You will have to do a few steps to ensure it works properly.

-Empty the system
-Flush with fresh water for a few hours (since the system is so expansive) making sure to clear air out of the lines.
-Empty again
-Fill with a solution of the cleaner and run it through as directed, (long soaks to be positive of cleanliness should be OK) (again, removing air)
-Empty again
-Flush again (removing air again.....)
-Finally, fill with your desired coolant

Also, if you want a contaminant free system, and want to use bleach, you CANNOT use a steel container, or fittings, as the bleach WILL corrode steel.
 

Good luck.


 

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As said by T3397 on YouTube, this is a bacterial infection. It happens.

 

It is incredibly easy to clean out to, since you already have the piping and pumps set up.

Look into a product called National Chemicals Beer Line Cleaner. It is used in the brewing community to clean out lines and kegs of caked on deposits, bacterial and yeast films, etc.

 

http://smile.amazon.com/National-Chemical-Cleaner-Kegerators-Bottle/dp/B0038NKDRG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1423072804&sr=8-1&keywords=beer+alkaline+cleaner

It will remove EVERYTHING from the lines, pumps, and reservoirs.

You will have to do a few steps to ensure it works properly.

-Empty the system

-Flush with fresh water for a few hours (since the system is so expansive) making sure to clear air out of the lines.

-Empty again

-Fill with a solution of the cleaner and run it through as directed, (long soaks to be positive of cleanliness should be OK)

-Empty again

-Flush again

-Finally, fill with your desired coolant

Also, if you want a contaminant free system, and want to use bleach, you CANNOT use a steel container, or fittings, as the bleach WILL corrode steel.

 

Good luck.

 

Should he not use a degreaser to remove the assembly lube/grease from the steel reservoir?

Ketchup is better than mustard.

GUI is better than Command Line Interface.

Dubs are better than subs

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Should he not use a degreaser to remove the assembly lube/grease from the steel reservoir?

The alkaline solution will remove any grease, oil, or whatever in the system.

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And they will have to completely fill the reservoir with the solution and allow to soak, then flush thoroughly.

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