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On 3/19/2024 at 1:18 PM, BigFatTeddy said:

Main goal of the network setup: Insane speed. Everything related to me and what I do needs to be connected via 10G, family gets 1G Ethernet. Whenever two switches get connected, dual LACP 10G trunk is used to avoid even the slightest chance of me having to wait an additional nanosecond. And being able to transfer 2-3 Gigs in just a two or three seconds. Because: lack of patience.

 

The ML rig is copying quite big chunks of data around, which is being changed a lot.

 

Also I'm running completely on Linux, so my home-drive is located on the server. Because backup. And replication. All systems and servers are AM4-based, using the Asrack B550D4ID-2L2T mainboard. With the Ryzen 7 5700X3D as CPU, because that thing is awesome when it comes to DB-operations. One chiplet and the huge cache is super cool.

 

network.thumb.png.9a3f80c475b6d41be9cad5f20d1d774e.png

 

 

Do you have issues with roaming between D-LINK APs without a WLAN controller coordinating the handoffs? 

 

I previously had Google Wifi before deploying OMADA products. Roaming between my APs in my house was always an issue. 

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On 2/9/2024 at 7:52 PM, NobleGamer said:

I used LucidChart for free to make my attached diagram.

 

About my network:

  • The ER-X's main purpose is to support failover between 5G Gateway (primary) and DSL (failover because its slow and less reliable) - Failover wizard was easy to use with moderate networking knowledge.
  • ER-X's SmartQueue QoS doesnt bottleneck my 5G home internet as long as download traffic doesn't hit 200+ mbps (which 5G can hit sometimes). Instead of SmartQueue I tried prioritizing specific traffic instead via DSCP tagging & Advanced Queue config, but it was tough to get it working well and do much for me.
  • There's a double NAT with the 5G Gateway to the ER-X because ISP hardware can't be configured with a DMZ or passthrough. It's caused no issues so far, but I also don't play much online games and I don't access my NAS from the internet. I have my best practices with 5G home internet here in this guide.
  • ASUS ZenWifi Mini AX1800 for me was a solid mesh upgrade from an AC1200 mesh that I couldn't disable the router of. Just the higher non-traditional QAM alone (like 1024 @ 5 GHz band) really helped with higher link speeds at moderate to far distances, enough for the 3 APs to cover most of my two story home in solid 5 GHz. I temporarily put one node in wireless mesh mode due to some home improvement, and it's worked fairly well for handling a handful of devices connecting to it that can demand a total of 100-200 mbps.
  • There are up to 20 devices that can connect to wifi, but for the ~10 not pictured here I couldn't find good pictures for them and most of them are smaller devices anyways which don't communicate often or use much data.  The APs and router seem to handle them all well.
  • NAS backups are hardly bottlenecked by 1gbps networking speeds because most files I backup are small, and random write speeds are trash for HDDs are weak. So the cost of 2.5 or 10gbps networking wouldn't really benefit me, especially when my internet isn't pushing more than 200 mbps.
  • I went with MoCA 2.0 bonded (1gbps) and 2.5 (2.5gbps) instead of ethernet because there was already perfect locations for coax and coax splitter where I would've otherwise put ethernet. So I didn't want to go through all the extra effort to remove the coax runs on the home's exterior, pull ethernet through the coax holes, re-seal them, etc. I just wish it was easy to check the signal/quality of the coax connection, as the steps provided with the coax adapters to access their web interfaces don't seem to work. I tried to mitigate signal issues by placing a coax terminator on the unused port of the 4 port coax splitter.
  • I bought my Edgerouter, ASUS mesh, and two 2-packs of MoCA adapters all from ebay for half off their usual new price. Otherwise, it could've cost me as much as $600 to buy them all new. I bought my switch new, since switches are the cheapest network hardware.

 

NobleGamer Network Layout - Feb 2024.jpg

UISP Edge Router products from Ubiquiti are such hidden gems. I love the UISP portfolio.

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  • 6 months later...

I have a fairly simple network.

image.thumb.png.3df33e52a423c534a4834058a0b175dc.png

 

(It's partially in german, sorry about that)

English is not my first language, so please excuse any confusion or misunderstandings on my end, also I like to edit my posts a lot.

 

F@H-Stats

The Rigs:

Xenon:

CPU: 2x Xeon E5 2690 V3

RAM: 64GB DDR4 2133 RDIMM

MoBo: Supermicro X10DRi-T4+

Hydroxide:

CPU: Ryzen 5 5600

GPU: RTX 3080 12GB

RAM: 48GB DDR4 3200 UDIMM

MoBo: ASRock B550M Pro4

 

The Laptop (Lenovo Legion 5 15IAH7):

CPU: Core i5 12500H

RAM: 16GB (2x8GB) DDR5-4800

GPU: RTX 3050 Ti mobile

OS: Windows 11 Home

 

The Tablet:

Dell Latitude 7212 Rugged Extreme Tablet (Core i5 8350U/8GB RAM)

OS: Windows 11 Pro

 

 

.- -- --- --. ..- ...

 

 

 

🧀 

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  • 2 months later...
  • 6 months later...

my work in progress network
asdf.drawio.thumb.png.da1eda140cb5348fbc44a4979269109a.png


My workplace allowed me a couple U and a natted network drop, and some tower space so i took advantage of it. 
All lan traffic routes out over redundant encrypted vpn tunnels with at the moment just two gateways. 
The work lan routes out to LA, USA by default and I have no control over that, so I just got a vps there as primary. Tokyo secondary because i am a stupid weeb
My house in this diagram is my weekend cabin which has no service or anything and is on solar. the only viable isp would be starlink but meh...
Hill is my "tower", also on solar with a 7,5kwh battery and what was supposed to be 1,2kw of solar. It's just stuck on top of a hill that conveniently has LOS to my workplace and some cell towers. 

The network is currently a bit broken up, I want to change a few things, mainly get some real hardware for the opnsense core router, and upgrade the long wireless link. 
Since the link has pretty poor performance, I currently route that link over a vlan to a secondary port on my pc and the wifi traffic just by default goes over the cradlepoint at hill. I manually switch between the wireless link to C or the cradlepoint for the pc, depending on if the speed is bad or not that day. 
I kinda want to put in some additional hardware to do that for me as well as handle the wifi guest dmz instead of doing it on the AP, but I need to think about what that will look like because I want to keep a sort of flat network design. 
I also need to replace the switch at C since that is meant to be modified for dc power and it will be put in soon at a different site close to hill. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

network.png

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X | CPU Cooler: Stock AMD Cooler | Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX B550-F GAMING (WI-FI) | RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (4x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 CL16 | GPU: Nvidia GTX 1060 6GB Zotac Mini | Case: K280 Case | PSU: Cooler Master B600 Power supply | SSD: 1TB  | HDDs: 1x 250GB & 1x 1TB WD Blue | Monitor: 24" Acer S240HLBID | OS: Win 11 Pro.

 

Home Lab:  Lenovo ThinkCenter M82 Hyper-V Server 2022 | Dell OptiPlex 9020 Hyper-V Server 2022 | TP-LINK TL-SG108E | Cisco Catalyst C2960CG 8 Port Switch | HP MicroServer G8 SCCM Server | 2x Dell PowerEdge R630 Hyper-V Server 2022

 

 

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  • 5 weeks later...

Fairly simple and straight forward

 

image.png.0a133cd98e6ace9526b3badb62cf542e.png

Desktop: AMD 9800x3d / Asus ROG Crosshair 870e Extreme / Asus ROG Astral 5090 OC / 32GB Corsair Titanium / 4TB & 2TB WD SN850x / Win 11 Pro

Plex/AI:  Intel Ultra 9 285k / Asus Tuf Gaming B860m-Plus / 2 x RTX 4000 ADA / 64GB Kingston Fury / 2 x 4TB Samsung 990 Pro / Win 11 Pro 

NAS: Synology DS1821+ (8 x 20TB Seagate x24 ) / Synology RS1221+ (8 x 24TB Seagate x24) / Synology DS923+ (4 x 14TB Seagate) 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thank you LTT for cursing blessing me with the ideas of both virtualized gaming PCs (many gamers, 1 PC) and OPNsense.

Gigabit internet from Spectrum (fiber until the last mile, coax going into house)

Basement server runs W11, which handles: 1. Hyper-V for OPNsense and two W11 VMs for gaming needs of family members. 2. Plex for...Plex. 3. Amcrest software for doorbell cameras. 4. Folding@Home with a RX 7900 XT in a cool environment where it can make as much noise as it wants.

A main 8 port switch in basement to connect the rest of the house to the network.

Two more 5 port switches to connect multiple stationary devices to the network.

Two ASUS routers in AP/Mesh mode to handle Wi-Fi needs for inside and outside the house.

 

Thank goodness the previous owner ran CAT6 from first floor, front of house to the basement, back of house. They didn't seem to do anything else in the house right, but left me that blessing.

 

 

image.thumb.png.4ac72b63197259f19150acab01d1c2a8.png

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  • 2 months later...
On 11/8/2020 at 7:46 AM, Lurick said:

Physical layout (2025):

  Reveal hidden contents

HomeNetwork-RackLayout-Dec2025.jpg.3a9930ee43445f600c53a105dcefacb3.jpg

 

Updated Diagram (2025):

  Reveal hidden contents

HomeNetwork-December2025.thumb.jpeg.508bd8f4fe71687b01c7bbe32452ebf6.jpeg

 

 

Edit:

Updated as of December 2025

Overhauled and updated with all Unifi to replace my other gear.

License prices went up and it just made sense at that point to uplift everything 🙂 

Current Network Layout:

Current Build Log/PC:

Storage Server Setup:

 

Prior Build Log/PC:

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  • 3 months later...

I admit networking not really easy for me, but I managed to build my first router PC using some old hardware. Yes superpower hungry compared to other devices but baby steps. tl;dr opensense was fully bootable with support out of box. I'm learning new terms as a go basically and double-checking that my settings are correct/safe and the reasoning for doing all of this was not feeling safe using a stock 2021 d-link router using webUI dating 2018, there hasn't been updates is many many years and openwrt doesn't support this dlink & hearing hackers are exploiting home routers more.

 

Just learned what a NAT and double NAT was since I'm stuck in double NAT. Still very confusing with everything, so I apologize if my terms or reasoning is wrong. I'm basically learning as a go with no help.

 

config.jpg.8ea32ce0a8b9764946880a5b7d2df1c0.jpg

20260425_062759.jpg

20260425_062551.jpg

[706IEB] 

Ryzen 4800H 4.2g, G.SKILL Ripjaws DDR4 3200 32g (2x16g), Nvidia 3050Ti 4g & Vega 7 512m, Stock PSU & MB, Samsung MZVLQ512HBLU (EndevourOS XFCE),

TEAMGROUP MP33 (Win 11e 120g), 2x 3.5in HDD adapted USB (6t + 4t), USB-C DOCK 3x USB, XT/AT Soarer's & Utopian KB-5160 '88, Razor Viper Mini, Fiio K5 Pro

[Firewall/Router PC]

Xeon W3520 2.6g, HP 0B4Ch (ATX adapter), 4x4g DDR3 1333 ECC, Intel 82571EB/GB PCIE, Nvidia Quadro 2000, SPARKLE ATX-400PN, WD2500BHTZ 10K 250GB, OPNsense, Dlink DIR-X3260 (Extended)

 

[Others] iPod Video 5th (M2 256g), Fiio K5 Pro '20, Process Lasso Pro Lifetime '20, Samsung S20 FE 5G '20 (128g + 256g micro, 3rd battery, 2nd usb)

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17 hours ago, Unknownm said:

not feeling safe using a stock 2021 d-link router using webUI dating 2018, there hasn't been updates is many many years and openwrt doesn't support this dlink & hearing hackers are exploiting home routers more.

Ok, but did you have to go full medieval on the poor thing 😄
image.png.d4de7ad67d02ce38ba5a6213a843053e.png

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14 hours ago, Biohazard777 said:

Ok, but did you have to go full medieval on the poor thing 😄
image.png.d4de7ad67d02ce38ba5a6213a843053e.png

 

that's actually for a different reason. I lived in this basement from 2022-2025 with that dlink router as my main, but I would get low speeds, cut-outs sometimes or just no connection, so at the time I thought this router was getting hot. With a soldering iron I cut open a square and 1 hole each side for the zip tie (USB FAN)

 

tl;dr when the Shaw guy (This dude was 6'8 in height) came to upgrade the internet turns out the owner had cable splitters ontop of cable splitters way before it reached my side (He even showed me) so the reason for the drop-outs was because the signal was way too weak (not overheating) lawl

 

Now I forever get to loook at the insides of this dlink router, which was once thought because it was overheating 

[706IEB] 

Ryzen 4800H 4.2g, G.SKILL Ripjaws DDR4 3200 32g (2x16g), Nvidia 3050Ti 4g & Vega 7 512m, Stock PSU & MB, Samsung MZVLQ512HBLU (EndevourOS XFCE),

TEAMGROUP MP33 (Win 11e 120g), 2x 3.5in HDD adapted USB (6t + 4t), USB-C DOCK 3x USB, XT/AT Soarer's & Utopian KB-5160 '88, Razor Viper Mini, Fiio K5 Pro

[Firewall/Router PC]

Xeon W3520 2.6g, HP 0B4Ch (ATX adapter), 4x4g DDR3 1333 ECC, Intel 82571EB/GB PCIE, Nvidia Quadro 2000, SPARKLE ATX-400PN, WD2500BHTZ 10K 250GB, OPNsense, Dlink DIR-X3260 (Extended)

 

[Others] iPod Video 5th (M2 256g), Fiio K5 Pro '20, Process Lasso Pro Lifetime '20, Samsung S20 FE 5G '20 (128g + 256g micro, 3rd battery, 2nd usb)

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