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using a solo speaker how should i connect

I have one new cabinet Bosch loudspeaker, that you connect with pigtails. it has zero for the common, which the black pig tail wire would go to im guessing, it also has 1.5w 3w or 6w option, im guessing i would hook the red pigtail wire to?

I want to connect from my tv which allows up to 2 extra speakers in addition with tv speakers. it has left audio white and right audio red. for solo speaker do I put the RCA connector on the tv red or the tv white or both?when you run only a solo speaker, is there a better side to choose the red or the white if you can only run off one output jack? which sides gives you the better sound and output red right or left white? if I was to use the red RCA tv output would i put the red pig tail wire on 6 W and the black pig tail wire on the zero common? if i can run both the red and the white rca jacks would the red pig tails from both go to 6w and the black pigtails on both to zero common on the speaker?

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If you only have 1 speaker (assuming it's in the middle),  I would actually recommend clipping both red and white into one of the red sockets and putting both black wires in "0", therefore you'll get both left and right channels out of the speaker. But, if you were only using one channel you would only need to connect the black (ground) wire from that channel.

I'd start with 6W and if that is too quiet go to 3W and then 1.5W if it's still too soft.

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39 minutes ago, da na said:

If you only have 1 speaker (assuming it's in the middle),  I would actually recommend clipping both red and white into one of the red sockets and putting both black wires in "0", therefore you'll get both left and right channels out of the speaker. But, if you were only using one channel you would only need to connect the black (ground) wire from that channel.

I'd start with 6W and if that is too quiet go to 3W and then 1.5W if it's still too soft.

I've had extremely bad™ experiences with bridging amplified outputs together. I strongly recommend against this.

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Network:

Spoiler
                           ┌─────────────── Office/Rack ────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────┐
Google Fiber Webpass ────── UniFi Security Gateway ─── UniFi Switch 8-60W ─┬─ UniFi Switch Flex XG ═╦═ Veda (Proxmox Virtual Switch)
(500Mbps↑/500Mbps↓)                             UniFi CloudKey Gen2 (PoE) ─┴─ Veda (IPMI)           ╠═ Veda-NAS (HW Passthrough NIC)
╔═══════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════╩═ Narrative (Asus USB 2.5G NIC)
║ ┌────── Closet ──────┐   ┌─────────────── Bedroom ──────────────────────────────────────────────────────┐
╚═ UniFi Switch Flex XG ═╤═ UniFi Switch Flex XG ═╦═ Byarlant
   (PoE)                 │                        ╠═ Narrative (Cable Matters USB-PD 2.5G Ethernet Dongle)
                         │                        ╚═ Jesta Cannon*
                         │ ┌─────────────── Media Center ──────────────────────────────────┐
Notes:                   └─ UniFi Switch 8 ─────────┬─ UniFi Access Point nanoHD (PoE)
═══ is Multi-Gigabit                                ├─ Sony Playstation 4 
─── is Gigabit                                      ├─ Pioneer VSX-S520
* = cable passed to Bedroom from Media Center       ├─ Sony XR65A80K (Google TV)
** = cable passed from Media Center to Bedroom      └─ Work Laptop** (Startech USB-PD Dock)

 

Retired/Other:

Spoiler

Laptop (Rozen-Zulu): Sony VAIO VPCF13WFX | Core i7-740QM | 8GB Patriot DDR3 | GT 425M | Samsung 850EVO 250GB SSD | Blu-ray Drive | Intel 7260 Wifi (lived a good life, retired with honor)

Testbed/Old Desktop (Kshatriya): Xeon X5470 @ 4.0GHz | ZALMAN CNPS9500 | Gigabyte EP45-UD3L | 8GB Nanya DDR2 400MHz | XFX HD6870 DD | OCZ Vertex 3 Max-IOPS 120GB | Corsair CX430M | HooToo USB 3.0 PCIe Card | Osprey 230 Video Capture | NZXT H230 Case

TrueNAS Server (La Vie en Rose): Xeon E3-1241v3 | Supermicro X10SLL-F | Corsair H60 | 32GB Micron DDR3L ECC 1600MHz | 1x Kingston 16GB SSD / Crucial MX500 500GB

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50 minutes ago, da na said:

If you only have 1 speaker (assuming it's in the middle),  I would actually recommend clipping both red and white into one of the red sockets and putting both black wires in "0", therefore you'll get both left and right channels out of the speaker. But, if you were only using one channel you would only need to connect the black (ground) wire from that channel.

I'd start with 6W and if that is too quiet go to 3W and then 1.5W if it's still too soft.

thank you, much appreciated. i wasnt sure if i could mix the channels. it is a very small guest bedroom in my house. i think it will be a great addition. it will be center but 180° opposite wall the tv is centered on.

 

Had three of those bosch from another project in my shed and didnt need the 3rd one.

i noticed with my mast bdrm and living room tvs that have sound bars, woofers, left and rights, when i disconnect everything and use just the left it has different sounds than when i disconnect everything and the use just the right.

 

is there a standard that dictates certain noise comes out of one vs the other?

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12 minutes ago, AbydosOne said:

I've had extremely bad™ experiences with bridging amplified outputs together. I strongly recommend against this.

bad experiences as in burning out speaker? i dont imagine the tv has much output power.

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5 minutes ago, bikeman5 said:

there a standard that dictates certain noise comes out of one vs the other?

each channel of audio gets its own specific audio, yes.

Left receives left, right receives right.

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1 minute ago, bikeman5 said:

bad experiences as in burning out speaker?

Burning out the amplifier. 

Main System (Byarlant): Ryzen 7 5800X | Asus B550-Creator ProArt | EK 240mm Basic AIO | 16GB G.Skill DDR4 3200MT/s CAS-14 | XFX Speedster SWFT 210 RX 6600 | Samsung 990 PRO 2TB / Samsung 960 PRO 512GB / 4× Crucial MX500 2TB (RAID-0) | Corsair RM750X | Mellanox ConnectX-3 10G NIC | Inateck USB 3.0 Card | Hyte Y60 Case | Dell U3415W Monitor | Keychron K4 Brown (white backlight)

 

Laptop (Narrative): Lenovo Flex 5 81X20005US | Ryzen 5 4500U | 16GB RAM (soldered) | Vega 6 Graphics | SKHynix P31 1TB NVMe SSD | Intel AX200 Wifi (all-around awesome machine)

 

Proxmox Server (Veda): Ryzen 7 3800XT | AsRock Rack X470D4U | Corsair H80i v2 | 64GB Micron DDR4 ECC 3200MT/s | 4x 10TB WD Whites / 4x 14TB Seagate Exos / 2× Samsung PM963a 960GB SSD | Seasonic Prime Fanless 500W | Intel X540-T2 10G NIC | LSI 9207-8i HBA | Fractal Design Node 804 Case (side panels swapped to show off drives) | VMs: TrueNAS Scale; Ubuntu Server (PiHole/PiVPN/NGINX?); Windows 10 Pro; Ubuntu Server (Apache/MySQL)


Media Center/Video Capture (Jesta Cannon): Ryzen 5 1600X | ASRock B450M Pro4 R2.0 | Noctua NH-L12S | 16GB Crucial DDR4 3200MT/s CAS-22 | EVGA GTX750Ti SC | UMIS NVMe SSD 256GB / Seagate 1.5TB HDD | Corsair CX450M | Viewcast Osprey 260e Video Capture | Mellanox ConnectX-2 10G NIC | LG UH12NS30 BD-ROM | Silverstone Sugo SG-11 Case | Sony XR65A80K

 

Camera: Sony ɑ7II w/ Meike Grip | Sony SEL24240 | Samyang 35mm ƒ/2.8 | Sony SEL50F18F | Sony SEL2870 (kit lens) | PNY Elite Perfomance 512GB SDXC card

 

Network:

Spoiler
                           ┌─────────────── Office/Rack ────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────┐
Google Fiber Webpass ────── UniFi Security Gateway ─── UniFi Switch 8-60W ─┬─ UniFi Switch Flex XG ═╦═ Veda (Proxmox Virtual Switch)
(500Mbps↑/500Mbps↓)                             UniFi CloudKey Gen2 (PoE) ─┴─ Veda (IPMI)           ╠═ Veda-NAS (HW Passthrough NIC)
╔═══════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════╩═ Narrative (Asus USB 2.5G NIC)
║ ┌────── Closet ──────┐   ┌─────────────── Bedroom ──────────────────────────────────────────────────────┐
╚═ UniFi Switch Flex XG ═╤═ UniFi Switch Flex XG ═╦═ Byarlant
   (PoE)                 │                        ╠═ Narrative (Cable Matters USB-PD 2.5G Ethernet Dongle)
                         │                        ╚═ Jesta Cannon*
                         │ ┌─────────────── Media Center ──────────────────────────────────┐
Notes:                   └─ UniFi Switch 8 ─────────┬─ UniFi Access Point nanoHD (PoE)
═══ is Multi-Gigabit                                ├─ Sony Playstation 4 
─── is Gigabit                                      ├─ Pioneer VSX-S520
* = cable passed to Bedroom from Media Center       ├─ Sony XR65A80K (Google TV)
** = cable passed from Media Center to Bedroom      └─ Work Laptop** (Startech USB-PD Dock)

 

Retired/Other:

Spoiler

Laptop (Rozen-Zulu): Sony VAIO VPCF13WFX | Core i7-740QM | 8GB Patriot DDR3 | GT 425M | Samsung 850EVO 250GB SSD | Blu-ray Drive | Intel 7260 Wifi (lived a good life, retired with honor)

Testbed/Old Desktop (Kshatriya): Xeon X5470 @ 4.0GHz | ZALMAN CNPS9500 | Gigabyte EP45-UD3L | 8GB Nanya DDR2 400MHz | XFX HD6870 DD | OCZ Vertex 3 Max-IOPS 120GB | Corsair CX430M | HooToo USB 3.0 PCIe Card | Osprey 230 Video Capture | NZXT H230 Case

TrueNAS Server (La Vie en Rose): Xeon E3-1241v3 | Supermicro X10SLL-F | Corsair H60 | 32GB Micron DDR3L ECC 1600MHz | 1x Kingston 16GB SSD / Crucial MX500 500GB

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4 hours ago, bikeman5 said:

Also is the amp in the speaker or tv? i dont have seperate amp.

I've been confused about this the entire thread.

I don't understand how your speaker works.

 

Powered speakers have their own internal amplifier and power supply. They get their power from a wall plug. Then the audio signal connects directly to the speaker via RCA or 3.5mm, etc.

 

Passive speakers need an external amplifier (typically a AV receiver) as a power source and audio signal. The audio signal normally connects to the receiver/pre-amp.

 

The picture in your original post appears to have RCA that terminates into bare wire that will connect to speaker binding clips. I don't understand if you're working with powered speakers or passive speakers. I am betting that you're working with a passive speaker, so you need receiver/amplifier.

 

How did you hook up your other 2 speakers?

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I was going to say exactly what @saintlouisbagels said, you're trying to take an unamplified signal and hook it to a passive speaker, at least that's my understanding of this thread.  That isn't going to work.  Also I don't know of any TV's that offer a powered signal for speakers, though I'm not on the up and up of televisions, just never seen it and don't know why they would start.

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On 4/9/2024 at 11:31 PM, saintlouisbagels said:

I've been confused about this the entire thread.

I don't understand how your speaker works.

 

Powered speakers have their own internal amplifier and power supply. They get their power from a wall plug. Then the audio signal connects directly to the speaker via RCA or 3.5mm, etc.

 

Passive speakers need an external amplifier (typically a AV receiver) as a power source and audio signal. The audio signal normally connects to the receiver/pre-amp.

 

The picture in your original post appears to have RCA that terminates into bare wire that will connect to speaker binding clips. I don't understand if you're working with powered speakers or passive speakers. I am betting that you're working with a passive speaker, so you need receiver/amplifier.

 

How did you hook up your other 2 speakers?

you are correct, the speakers do are not powered, im using these speakers with a receiver in my shed, this was an extra speaker I wanted to add to a Hisense Ruko TV.  Thank You for making this clear to me. I won't be able to do what I want, at least the way I intended. Would a powered switch in between the speakers and tv power these speaker and solve what is missing?

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6 minutes ago, bikeman5 said:

 Would a powered switch in between the speakers and tv power these speaker and solve what is missing?

You need an amp, not a switch.

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This is a 70V speaker, built for cheap public address systems. It has a built in transformer (with multiple taps, hence the 6W/3W/1.5W terminals) and will only work properly with a suitable amplifier that has a 70V output. In usual applications you would connect a lot of 70V speakers in parallel to one amplifier output - in that case the different transformer taps are being used to "control" the volume of individual speakers. 

Using speakers like this with a conventional amplifier (such as a hifi receiver or similar) might not damage anything, but still isn't something I would recommend due to quality concerns (achievable volume etc.). 

The best way to use such speakers with conventional amplifiers would be to open the enclosure and bypass the transformer. Still, for what you're trying to achieve you will need some sort of amplifier as already mentioned. There are plenty cheap options available on the big online shopping sites of your choice, almost any will be more than enough for a speaker like that. Since you want to sum stereo to mono, maybe get an amp that will do that for you. 

 

Quality-wise those speakers tend to be at the bottom end of what is considered acceptable. They'll work somewhat okay for spoken word, but nothing I would even remotely consider for listening to music, movies and stuff like that. They are made to be cheap (cause you will use dozens of them in an usual installation), not good. 

While we're at it: I don't really get what you're trying to achieve with a "center speaker" behind your back? Ideally, a center speaker would be (hence the name) centered in your screen, cause in a proper setup it's main job is reproducing voices. Seeing people speak in front of you, but hearing them from your back would be quite irritating IMHO. 

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