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AIO thoughts

fbplayer54

I have a Thermaltake Dragon 240mm AIO that I've had for about a year and a half. I'm noticing recently that it's gotten louder and more gurgly as time has gone on. Very recently I've had performance issues with games stuttering and freezing for a couple seconds while the gurgling gets a lot louder. It almost sounds like it's trying to play catch up on cooling.

 

My question is do I refill this AIO (and how? I'm assuming through the port pictured in picture 2 but with what?), or should I buy a newer/name brand one? I've read that Thermaltake makes trashy AIOs

 

MOBO: NZXT Z690 AM4

CPU: 5800X

 

dragon_240_02.jpg

dragon_240_02 (1).jpg

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1 minute ago, fbplayer54 said:

Very recently I've had performance issues with games stuttering and freezing for a couple seconds while the gurgling gets a lot louder. It almost sounds like it's trying to play catch up on cooling.

It should still be in warranty, but buying a decent aio would be better

 

3 minutes ago, fbplayer54 said:

I've read that Thermaltake makes trashy AIOs

quite true, their psus aren’t bad but they’re AIOS aren’t good, not even for the money

 

1 minute ago, fbplayer54 said:

My question is do I refill this AIO (and how? I'm assuming through the port pictured in picture 2 but with what?),

You can refill it but it’ll be a difficult job and if you’re not experienced, just don’t do it

 

3 minutes ago, fbplayer54 said:

or should I buy a newer/name brand one

The Arctic lf3 is a great AIO, has 5 years of warranty and is quite cheap with the deals that are going on until May. If you can get one of those, you could also go through with warranty but then you’ll have to move to a different cooler 

 

an alternative is an air cooler. The thermalright Phantom spirit 120 SE is a great choice for only 35 bucks and if you don’t like the look of it the AK620 zero dark or digital isn’t much more. Air coolers are normally more reliable than AIOs too (but I’ve had no problems at all with my LF2 Rev 7 Arctic 280)

 

if I were you and I had the space, I’d get the thermalright PS120SE. But if you prefer the looks of an AIO then a white LF3 would be the next best thing

Message me on discord (bread8669) for more help 

 

Current parts list

CPU: R5 5600 CPU Cooler: Stock

Mobo: Asrock B550M-ITX/ac

RAM: Vengeance LPX 2x8GB 3200mhz Cl16

SSD: P5 Plus 500GB Secondary SSD: Kingston A400 960GB

GPU: MSI RTX 3060 Gaming X

Fans: 1x Noctua NF-P12 Redux, 1x Arctic P12, 1x Corsair LL120

PSU: NZXT SP-650M SFX-L PSU from H1

Monitor: Samsung WQHD 34 inch and 43 inch TV

Mouse: Logitech G203

Keyboard: Rii membrane keyboard

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

Damn this space can fit a 4090 (just kidding)

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21 minutes ago, filpo said:

It should still be in warranty, but buying a decent aio would be better

 

quite true, their psus aren’t bad but they’re AIOS aren’t good, not even for the money

 

You can refill it but it’ll be a difficult job and if you’re not experienced, just don’t do it

 

The Arctic lf3 is a great AIO, has 5 years of warranty and is quite cheap with the deals that are going on until May. If you can get one of those, you could also go through with warranty but then you’ll have to move to a different cooler 

 

an alternative is an air cooler. The thermalright Phantom spirit 120 SE is a great choice for only 35 bucks and if you don’t like the look of it the AK620 zero dark or digital isn’t much more. Air coolers are normally more reliable than AIOs too (but I’ve had no problems at all with my LF2 Rev 7 Arctic 280)

 

if I were you and I had the space, I’d get the thermalright PS120SE. But if you prefer the looks of an AIO then a white LF3 would be the next best thing

Thank you very much!!

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30 minutes ago, fbplayer54 said:

I have a Thermaltake Dragon 240mm AIO that I've had for about a year and a half. I'm noticing recently that it's gotten louder and more gurgly as time has gone on. Very recently I've had performance issues with games stuttering and freezing for a couple seconds while the gurgling gets a lot louder. It almost sounds like it's trying to play catch up on cooling.

 

My question is do I refill this AIO (and how? I'm assuming through the port pictured in picture 2 but with what?), or should I buy a newer/name brand one? I've read that Thermaltake makes trashy AIOs

 

MOBO: NZXT Z690 AM4

CPU: 5800X

 

dragon_240_02.jpg

dragon_240_02 (1).jpg

How is it oriented? If you orient it so the pump is physically below the radiator, it’ll pretty much be fine even if it’s a little low on coolant. Basically, as long as the radiator is at the top of the case, it’ll be fine. Second best is a front mount with the tubes at the bottom. 
 

Front mount with tubes at the top is the worst option and can easily lead to gurgling noises as it starts to evaporate liquid.

Rig: i7 13700k - - Asus Z790-P Wifi - - RTX 4080 - - 4x16GB 6000MHz - - Samsung 990 Pro 2TB NVMe Boot + Main Programs - - Assorted SATA SSD's for Photo Work - - Corsair RM850x - - Sound BlasterX EA-5 - - Corsair XC8 JTC Edition - - Corsair GPU Full Cover GPU Block - - XT45 X-Flow 420 + UT60 280 rads - - EK XRES RGB PWM - - Fractal Define S2 - - Acer Predator X34 -- Logitech G502 - - Logitech G710+ - - Logitech Z5500 - - LTT Deskpad

 

Headphones/amp/dac: Schiit Lyr 3 - - Fostex TR-X00 - - Sennheiser HD 6xx

 

Homelab/ Media Server: Proxmox VE host - - 512 NVMe Samsung 980 RAID Z1 for VM's/Proxmox boot - - Xeon e5 2660 V4- - Supermicro X10SRF-i - - 128 GB ECC 2133 - - 10x4 TB WD Red RAID Z2 - - Corsair 750D - - Corsair RM650i - - Dell H310 6Gbps SAS HBA - - Intel RES2SC240 SAS Expander - - TreuNAS + many other VM’s

 

iPhone 14 Pro - 2018 MacBook Air

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5 minutes ago, LIGISTX said:

How is it oriented? If you orient it so the pump is physically below the radiator, it’ll pretty much be fine even if it’s a little low on coolant. Basically, as long as the radiator is at the top of the case, it’ll be fine. Second best is a front mount with the tubes at the bottom. 
 

Front mount with tubes at the top is the worst option and can easily lead to gurgling noises as it starts to evaporate liquid.

I have it on the top of the my case. I did think about that when buying that AIO

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17 hours ago, fbplayer54 said:

I have a Thermaltake Dragon 240mm AIO that I've had for about a year and a half. I'm noticing recently that it's gotten louder and more gurgly as time has gone on. Very recently I've had performance issues with games stuttering and freezing for a couple seconds while the gurgling gets a lot louder. It almost sounds like it's trying to play catch up on cooling.

 

My question is do I refill this AIO (and how? I'm assuming through the port pictured in picture 2 but with what?), or should I buy a newer/name brand one? I've read that Thermaltake makes trashy AIOs

 

MOBO: NZXT Z690 AM4

CPU: 5800X

 

dragon_240_02.jpg

dragon_240_02 (1).jpg

If it was doing a good job before, try doing a flush and fill with the port on the rad. If you fuck it up, then buy something better. 😉

I've been using computers since around 1978, started learning programming in 1980 on Apple IIs, started learning about hardware in 1990, ran a BBS from 1990-95, built my first Windows PC around 2000, taught myself malware removal starting in 2005 (also learned on Bleeping Computer), learned web dev starting in 2017, and I think I can fill a thimble with all that knowledge. 😉 I'm not an expert, which is why I keep investigating the answers that others give to try and improve my knowledge, so feel free to double-check the advice I give.

My phone's auto-correct is named Otto Rong.🤪😂

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16 hours ago, LIGISTX said:

Front mount with tubes at the top is the worst option and can easily lead to gurgling noises as it starts to evaporate liquid.

@NorKrisyou're up to bat.

I've been using computers since around 1978, started learning programming in 1980 on Apple IIs, started learning about hardware in 1990, ran a BBS from 1990-95, built my first Windows PC around 2000, taught myself malware removal starting in 2005 (also learned on Bleeping Computer), learned web dev starting in 2017, and I think I can fill a thimble with all that knowledge. 😉 I'm not an expert, which is why I keep investigating the answers that others give to try and improve my knowledge, so feel free to double-check the advice I give.

My phone's auto-correct is named Otto Rong.🤪😂

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1 hour ago, RevGAM said:

If it was doing a good job before, try doing a flush and fill with the port on the rad. If you fuck it up, then buy something better. 😉

If OP does this, just make sure to figure out if this loop has any mixed metals… if not, DI water plus some biocide is ideal. If it is mixed metals, I wouldn’t even bother trying to flush it, because refilling it would potentially be a massive headache. Could use car antifreeze as that’s usually designed for mixed metal application, but not always a guarantee. 

Rig: i7 13700k - - Asus Z790-P Wifi - - RTX 4080 - - 4x16GB 6000MHz - - Samsung 990 Pro 2TB NVMe Boot + Main Programs - - Assorted SATA SSD's for Photo Work - - Corsair RM850x - - Sound BlasterX EA-5 - - Corsair XC8 JTC Edition - - Corsair GPU Full Cover GPU Block - - XT45 X-Flow 420 + UT60 280 rads - - EK XRES RGB PWM - - Fractal Define S2 - - Acer Predator X34 -- Logitech G502 - - Logitech G710+ - - Logitech Z5500 - - LTT Deskpad

 

Headphones/amp/dac: Schiit Lyr 3 - - Fostex TR-X00 - - Sennheiser HD 6xx

 

Homelab/ Media Server: Proxmox VE host - - 512 NVMe Samsung 980 RAID Z1 for VM's/Proxmox boot - - Xeon e5 2660 V4- - Supermicro X10SRF-i - - 128 GB ECC 2133 - - 10x4 TB WD Red RAID Z2 - - Corsair 750D - - Corsair RM650i - - Dell H310 6Gbps SAS HBA - - Intel RES2SC240 SAS Expander - - TreuNAS + many other VM’s

 

iPhone 14 Pro - 2018 MacBook Air

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1 hour ago, LIGISTX said:

If OP does this, just make sure to figure out if this loop has any mixed metals… if not, DI water plus some biocide is ideal. If it is mixed metals, I wouldn’t even bother trying to flush it, because refilling it would potentially be a massive headache. Could use car antifreeze as that’s usually designed for mixed metal application, but not always a guarantee. 

I'm not experienced with doing it, but I've seen others discussing this. What's the big challenge with adding an anti- corrosive?

I've been using computers since around 1978, started learning programming in 1980 on Apple IIs, started learning about hardware in 1990, ran a BBS from 1990-95, built my first Windows PC around 2000, taught myself malware removal starting in 2005 (also learned on Bleeping Computer), learned web dev starting in 2017, and I think I can fill a thimble with all that knowledge. 😉 I'm not an expert, which is why I keep investigating the answers that others give to try and improve my knowledge, so feel free to double-check the advice I give.

My phone's auto-correct is named Otto Rong.🤪😂

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8 minutes ago, NorKris said:

Huh? 

Lol! Look at the advice the other person gave...

I've been using computers since around 1978, started learning programming in 1980 on Apple IIs, started learning about hardware in 1990, ran a BBS from 1990-95, built my first Windows PC around 2000, taught myself malware removal starting in 2005 (also learned on Bleeping Computer), learned web dev starting in 2017, and I think I can fill a thimble with all that knowledge. 😉 I'm not an expert, which is why I keep investigating the answers that others give to try and improve my knowledge, so feel free to double-check the advice I give.

My phone's auto-correct is named Otto Rong.🤪😂

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3 minutes ago, RevGAM said:

Lol! Look at the advice the other person gave...

Ooh.. 

@LIGISTX is almost correct... 

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4 hours ago, RevGAM said:

I'm not experienced with doing it, but I've seen others discussing this. What's the big challenge with adding an anti- corrosive?

You certainly can, but finding the correct and compatible glycol based coolant can be annoying. If everything is aluminum, or everything is copper, then DI water and biocide will be fine. If there is mixed metals, it just gets more complicated and annoying. 
 

3 hours ago, NorKris said:

Ooh.. 

@LIGISTX is almost correct... 

what am I not correct about? All AIO mounting is more or less fine, as long as at least a portion of the radiator is above the pump, and the feed tube to the pump will never have air enter it (so either tubes facing down with a top mount rad, or tubes at the bottom on a vertical mount rad). There isn’t much else to it…. It’s just physics. 

Rig: i7 13700k - - Asus Z790-P Wifi - - RTX 4080 - - 4x16GB 6000MHz - - Samsung 990 Pro 2TB NVMe Boot + Main Programs - - Assorted SATA SSD's for Photo Work - - Corsair RM850x - - Sound BlasterX EA-5 - - Corsair XC8 JTC Edition - - Corsair GPU Full Cover GPU Block - - XT45 X-Flow 420 + UT60 280 rads - - EK XRES RGB PWM - - Fractal Define S2 - - Acer Predator X34 -- Logitech G502 - - Logitech G710+ - - Logitech Z5500 - - LTT Deskpad

 

Headphones/amp/dac: Schiit Lyr 3 - - Fostex TR-X00 - - Sennheiser HD 6xx

 

Homelab/ Media Server: Proxmox VE host - - 512 NVMe Samsung 980 RAID Z1 for VM's/Proxmox boot - - Xeon e5 2660 V4- - Supermicro X10SRF-i - - 128 GB ECC 2133 - - 10x4 TB WD Red RAID Z2 - - Corsair 750D - - Corsair RM650i - - Dell H310 6Gbps SAS HBA - - Intel RES2SC240 SAS Expander - - TreuNAS + many other VM’s

 

iPhone 14 Pro - 2018 MacBook Air

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9 hours ago, LIGISTX said:

what am I not correct about? All AIO mounting is more or less fine, as long as at least a portion of the radiator is above the pump, and the feed tube to the pump will never have air enter it (so either tubes facing down with a top mount rad, or tubes at the bottom on a vertical mount rad). There isn’t much else to it…. It’s just physics. 

when u say it like that its 100%  correct 😄 

 

its just that i sounded like if u front mount ur always or very fast is going to lose the fluid in the loop

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