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i just bought the LG C2 42" OLED

rotexen
Go to solution Solved by Stahlmann,

DISCLAIMER: The following isn't meant to copy and paste already posted information (in the videos), but are the optimal settings i discovered based on my experience with my own C2.

 

My unit had a bit of undersaturation on desktop when HDR was enabled and the color space in the TV was set to Auto. I set the color space to "native" (basically DCI-P3) because i'd rather have a bit of oversaturation instead of undersaturation.

 

Other than that, set it to game optimizer and set prevent input delay to boost. Leave everything else alone in game optimizer settings.

 

In color settings, set the white balance to warm 42-50. (50 is recommended by most reviewers, but to reach the optimal 6500K whitepoint i had to turn it down to 42 with my unit) Also in the color settings, set the tone mapping to HGIG for the most consistent experience across different HDR games.

 

In Nvidia driver settings set it to 3840x2160 120Hz 8bit RGB. (gradient handling is worse in 10 bit or 12 bit modes, so make sure to use 8 bit, even in HDR).

 

I also installed the Color Control software and disabled the global auto dimming (where the picture gets darker over time), as it was a bit distracting when using the forum for example. I left logo dimming, pixel shifting and ABL enabled for some burn-in protection. As a bonus this app also works as a virtual wifi remote and can turn the TV on and off depending on what your PC is doing (shutdown, sleep, wake up, etc.) You can do all that without buying the service remote.

 

If you aim for 100 nits SDR brightness like i do and want to keep HDR enabled all the time, set the SDR conversion slider to 5. This results in around 98 nits on my unit. Turning the TV brightness to 100 nits peak also essentially completely disables ABL for SDR useage.

 

Turn sharpness down to 0 in the picture settings, as HDR picture modes have it at 10 by default. Leave the other color, saturation and brightness sliders at their default position.

 

If the game supports HDR settings, you should set it to the following:

Fullscreen brightness = 800 nits

Peak brightness = 800 nits

Paper white (also called UI brightness in some games) = 100 nits

Black level = 0 nits

 

(Yes, the TV obviously can't do 800 nits in peak or fullscreen, but these are the values you're aiming for with HGIG. These settings essentially disable double tonemapping that would otherwise lead to clipping in shadows or highlights)

 

Feel free to ask any further questions. I've been using the C2 as my main monitor almost a year now. And i do have a colorimeter so i'm able to do color and brightness measurements. Because of that i can probably give some useful information that other C2 users don't have access to.

i just bought the LG C2 42" OLED

anyone who has this TV can help me out

configure the picture settings and other things 

that need to be done.

or can link me a website that shows how to do

the settings for the LG C2 

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I own one. I'm surprised you haven't found anything as its a pretty well discussed and covered topic but I've configured mine using this overview from TFTCentral. I'm extremely happy with it. I use HDR mode with Windows 11 all the time, never switch to SDR. 

 

 

 

Also please make sure you know that its an OLED and how to properly care for it when using it on PC!

 

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i don't personally have it, but the consensus is that the cinema picture mode offers the best color accuracy

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Just now, ki8aras said:

i don't personally have it, but the consensus is that the cinema picture mode offers the best color accuracy

There is considerably more that goes into configuring it for PC use from an out of the box state. 

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1 minute ago, GuiltySpark_ said:

I own one. I'm surprised you haven't found anything as its a pretty well discussed and covered topic but I've configured mine using this overview from TFTCentral. I'm extremely happy with it. 

 

 

 

Also please make sure you know that its an OLED and how to properly care for it when using it on PC!

 

yeah 

thanks alot i found this vedio on youtube

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2 minutes ago, ki8aras said:

i don't personally have it, but the consensus is that the cinema picture mode offers the best color accuracy

i'm using it as a monitor with my pc 

so game optimizer is the way to go

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3 minutes ago, GuiltySpark_ said:

I own one. I'm surprised you haven't found anything as its a pretty well discussed and covered topic but I've configured mine using this overview from TFTCentral. I'm extremely happy with it. 

 

 

 

Also please make sure you know that its an OLED and how to properly care for it when using it on PC!

 

so i just copy these settings from the vedio and ready to go right?

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1 minute ago, rotexen said:

i'm using it as a monitor with my pc 

so game optimizer is the way to go

 

Just now, rotexen said:

so i just copy these settings from the vedio and ready to go right?

 

I'd watch the whole video and go through it on your TV, it should all be clear. 

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2 minutes ago, GuiltySpark_ said:

 

 

I'd watch the whole video and go through it on your TV, it should all be clear. 

i'm on windows 10 pro so is it fine too?

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Just now, rotexen said:

i'm on windows 10 pro so is it fine too?

Crappy HDR support but it should mostly work. 

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DISCLAIMER: The following isn't meant to copy and paste already posted information (in the videos), but are the optimal settings i discovered based on my experience with my own C2.

 

My unit had a bit of undersaturation on desktop when HDR was enabled and the color space in the TV was set to Auto. I set the color space to "native" (basically DCI-P3) because i'd rather have a bit of oversaturation instead of undersaturation.

 

Other than that, set it to game optimizer and set prevent input delay to boost. Leave everything else alone in game optimizer settings.

 

In color settings, set the white balance to warm 42-50. (50 is recommended by most reviewers, but to reach the optimal 6500K whitepoint i had to turn it down to 42 with my unit) Also in the color settings, set the tone mapping to HGIG for the most consistent experience across different HDR games.

 

In Nvidia driver settings set it to 3840x2160 120Hz 8bit RGB. (gradient handling is worse in 10 bit or 12 bit modes, so make sure to use 8 bit, even in HDR).

 

I also installed the Color Control software and disabled the global auto dimming (where the picture gets darker over time), as it was a bit distracting when using the forum for example. I left logo dimming, pixel shifting and ABL enabled for some burn-in protection. As a bonus this app also works as a virtual wifi remote and can turn the TV on and off depending on what your PC is doing (shutdown, sleep, wake up, etc.) You can do all that without buying the service remote.

 

If you aim for 100 nits SDR brightness like i do and want to keep HDR enabled all the time, set the SDR conversion slider to 5. This results in around 98 nits on my unit. Turning the TV brightness to 100 nits peak also essentially completely disables ABL for SDR useage.

 

Turn sharpness down to 0 in the picture settings, as HDR picture modes have it at 10 by default. Leave the other color, saturation and brightness sliders at their default position.

 

If the game supports HDR settings, you should set it to the following:

Fullscreen brightness = 800 nits

Peak brightness = 800 nits

Paper white (also called UI brightness in some games) = 100 nits

Black level = 0 nits

 

(Yes, the TV obviously can't do 800 nits in peak or fullscreen, but these are the values you're aiming for with HGIG. These settings essentially disable double tonemapping that would otherwise lead to clipping in shadows or highlights)

 

Feel free to ask any further questions. I've been using the C2 as my main monitor almost a year now. And i do have a colorimeter so i'm able to do color and brightness measurements. Because of that i can probably give some useful information that other C2 users don't have access to.

If someone did not use reason to reach their conclusion in the first place, you cannot use reason to convince them otherwise.

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45 minutes ago, GuiltySpark_ said:

Crappy HDR support but it should mostly work. 

It's the same level of HDR support W11 gets. The only difference is that W11 has a downloadable HDR calibration tool. (That has mixed usefulness)

 

And auto-HDR, but that's not worth using imo. It's basically just brighter SDR.

If someone did not use reason to reach their conclusion in the first place, you cannot use reason to convince them otherwise.

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Just now, Stahlmann said:

It's the same level of HDR support W11 gets. The only difference is that W11 has a downloadable HDR calibration tool. (That has mixed usefulness)

They added AutoHDR? 

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Just now, GuiltySpark_ said:

They added AutoHDR? 

I edited my comment just before you posted 😄

If someone did not use reason to reach their conclusion in the first place, you cannot use reason to convince them otherwise.

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I've had mine since January and only since starting to play Diablo IV have I noticed ABL kicking in at all. Its never been something I've noticed until now and its quite annoying. That Color Control software looks a little too much but if I can run it, disable ABL and not have to leave that running I'll try it. I'm all about simple set it and forget it and having that software running all the time seems extremely unnecessary when the TV works fine otherwise. 

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10 minutes ago, GuiltySpark_ said:

I've had mine since January and only since starting to play Diablo IV have I noticed ABL kicking in at all. Its never been something I've noticed until now and its quite annoying. That Color Control software looks a little too much but if I can run it, disable ABL and not have to leave that running I'll try it. I'm all about simple set it and forget it and having that software running all the time seems extremely unnecessary when the TV works fine otherwise. 

You cannot disable ABL (Automatic Brightness Limiter). ABL is when the screen automatically and instantly gets dimmer with larger bright windows.

 

What you mean is when the screen gets darker over time when displaying similar brightness levels? This is the "TPC" setting (Temporal Peak Luminance Control). You can use the app to get into the service menu, disable TPC and uninstall the app again. The setting will remain disabled until you go back into the service menu and enable it again.

 

"GSR" (Global Sticky Reduction) is the logo dimming. I only disabled it for calibration. It's not noticeable in real world use in my experience just like pixel shifting, so rather just leave these enabled for the burn-in protection.

 

The only reason for having the software running 24/7 is if you want the virtual remote functionality, meaning it will turn off the TV when you shut down the PC or automatically turn it back on when you get to the windows login screen after power on or wake from sleep.

If someone did not use reason to reach their conclusion in the first place, you cannot use reason to convince them otherwise.

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2 minutes ago, Stahlmann said:

 

 

What you mean is when the screen gets darker over time when displaying similar brightness levels? This is the "TPC" setting (Temporal Peak Luminance Control). You can use the app to get into the service menu, disable TPC and uninstall the app again. The setting will remain disabled until you go back into the service menu and enable it again.

 

Yes, that. I've never seen it do that before in any content but in D4 its been a common occurrence. I can watch it slowly dim then randomly it'll pop back to full brightness. I'll give it a shot.

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Just now, GuiltySpark_ said:

Yes, that. I've never seen it do that before in any content but in D4 its been a common occurrence. I can watch it slowly dim then randomly it'll pop back to full brightness. I'll give it a shot.

I had it happen when just browsing the forum in dark mode. That's what lead me to disable it.

If someone did not use reason to reach their conclusion in the first place, you cannot use reason to convince them otherwise.

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9 minutes ago, GuiltySpark_ said:

Yes, that. I've never seen it do that before in any content but in D4 its been a common occurrence. I can watch it slowly dim then randomly it'll pop back to full brightness. I'll give it a shot.

Just don't mess around too much in the service menu. Only play around with the options where you know they're doing. You can actually brick the TV when just turning on random knobs and dials.

If someone did not use reason to reach their conclusion in the first place, you cannot use reason to convince them otherwise.

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1 hour ago, rotexen said:

i just bought the LG C2 42" OLED

anyone who has this TV can help me out

configure the picture settings and other things 

that need to be done.

or can link me a website that shows how to do

the settings for the LG C2 

Congratulations! 😃

PC: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X, Gigabyte GeForce RTX 4090 OC 24G, X570 AORUS Elite WIFI Motherboard, HyperX FURY 32GB DDR4-3200 RGB RAM, Creative Sound Blaster AE-9 Sound Card, Samsung 970 Evo Plus M.2 SATA 500GB, ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro M.2 SATA 2TB, Asus HyperX Fury RGB SSD 960GB, Seagate Barracuda 7200RPM 3.5 HDD 2TB, Cooler Master MASTERLIQUID ML240R ARGB, Cooler Master MASTERFAN MF120R ARGB, Cooler Master ELV8 Graphics Card Holder ARGB, Asus ROG Strix 1000G PSU, Lian Li LANCOOL II MESH RGB Case, Windows 11 Pro (22H2).


Laptop: Asus Vivobook "A Bathing Ape" - ASUS Vivobook S 15 OLED BAPE Edition: Intel i9-13900H, 16 GB RAM, 15.6" 2.8K 120hz OLED | Apple MacBook Pro 14" 2023: M2 Pro, 16 GB RAM, NVMe 512 GB | Asus VivoBook 15 OLED: Intel® Core™ i3-1125G4, Intel UHD, 8 GB RAM, Micron NVMe 512 GB | Illegear Z5 SKYLAKE: Intel Core i7-6700HQ, Nvidia Geforce GTX 970M, 16 GB RAM, ADATA SU800 M.2 SATA 512GB.

 

Monitor: Samsung Odyssey OLED G9 49" 5120x1440 240hz QD-OLED HDR, LG OLED Flex 42LX3QPSA 41.5" 3840x2160 bendable 120hz WOLED, AOC 24G2SP 24" 1920x1080 165hz SDR, LG UltraGear Gaming Monitor 34" 34GN850 3440x1440 144hz (160hz OC) NanoIPS HDR, LG Ultrawide Gaming Monitor 34" 34UC79G 2560x1080 144hz IPS SDR, LG 24MK600 24" 1920x1080 75hz Freesync IPS SDR, BenQ EW2440ZH 24" 1920x1080 75hz VA SDR.


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5 hours ago, rotexen said:

i just bought the LG C2 42" OLED

anyone who has this TV can help me out

configure the picture settings and other things 

that need to be done.

or can link me a website that shows how to do

the settings for the LG C2 

Also congratulations! Pretty much everyone already given great advice. 

5 hours ago, rotexen said:

i'm using it as a monitor with my pc 

so game optimizer is the way to go

Only like to add is you don't have to set in stone for game optimiser, as the colour quality is worse than normal preset. You can use other presets for other uses, for instance game optimiser is for games and expert (dark) / HDR cinema user settings for movies. 

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9 hours ago, Stahlmann said:

DISCLAIMER: The following isn't meant to copy and paste already posted information (in the videos), but are the optimal settings i discovered based on my experience with my own C2.

 

My unit had a bit of undersaturation on desktop when HDR was enabled and the color space in the TV was set to Auto. I set the color space to "native" (basically DCI-P3) because i'd rather have a bit of oversaturation instead of undersaturation.

 

Other than that, set it to game optimizer and set prevent input delay to boost. Leave everything else alone in game optimizer settings.

 

In color settings, set the white balance to warm 42-50. (50 is recommended by most reviewers, but to reach the optimal 6500K whitepoint i had to turn it down to 42 with my unit) Also in the color settings, set the tone mapping to HGIG for the most consistent experience across different HDR games.

 

In Nvidia driver settings set it to 3840x2160 120Hz 8bit RGB. (gradient handling is worse in 10 bit or 12 bit modes, so make sure to use 8 bit, even in HDR).

 

I also installed the Color Control software and disabled the global auto dimming (where the picture gets darker over time), as it was a bit distracting when using the forum for example. I left logo dimming, pixel shifting and ABL enabled for some burn-in protection. As a bonus this app also works as a virtual wifi remote and can turn the TV on and off depending on what your PC is doing (shutdown, sleep, wake up, etc.) You can do all that without buying the service remote.

 

If you aim for 100 nits SDR brightness like i do and want to keep HDR enabled all the time, set the SDR conversion slider to 5. This results in around 98 nits on my unit. Turning the TV brightness to 100 nits peak also essentially completely disables ABL for SDR useage.

 

Turn sharpness down to 0 in the picture settings, as HDR picture modes have it at 10 by default. Leave the other color, saturation and brightness sliders at their default position.

 

If the game supports HDR settings, you should set it to the following:

Fullscreen brightness = 800 nits

Peak brightness = 800 nits

Paper white (also called UI brightness in some games) = 100 nits

Black level = 0 nits

 

(Yes, the TV obviously can't do 800 nits in peak or fullscreen, but these are the values you're aiming for with HGIG. These settings essentially disable double tonemapping that would otherwise lead to clipping in shadows or highlights)

 

Feel free to ask any further questions. I've been using the C2 as my main monitor almost a year now. And i do have a colorimeter so i'm able to do color and brightness measurements. Because of that i can probably give some useful information that other C2 users don't have access to.

thanks alot for the info and i will let you know as soon i get my unit shipped to my home.

i will ask more questions if need to but it seems like you covered the whole topic.

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12 hours ago, Stahlmann said:

It's the same level of HDR support W11 gets. The only difference is that W11 has a downloadable HDR calibration tool. (That has mixed usefulness)

 

And auto-HDR, but that's not worth using imo. It's basically just brighter SDR.

 

I have been back to playing Skyrim and tried auto-HDR out by a bit. I would say it's definitely not just a brighter SDR, after using it for about a hundread hours or two. It's more like uncalibrated HDR, you do get the extra dynamic range but the way it applies the detailed highlight is head scratching sometimes - and don't always result in a better experience. 

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5 hours ago, e22big said:

I have been back to playing Skyrim and tried auto-HDR out by a bit. I would say it's definitely not just a brighter SDR, after using it for about a hundread hours or two. It's more like uncalibrated HDR, you do get the extra dynamic range but the way it applies the detailed highlight is head scratching sometimes - and don't always result in a better experience. 

Skyrim is a good example on why i don't like AutoHDR. Because most of the UI including text is just white, the AutoHDR feature will render these at full brightness. I personally don't want my UI to permanently blast at me with 650 nits. It was even worse when i still had my PG35VQ because this monitor could do 1100 nits and so that's what it did all the time.

 

The distinction between UI and the 3D-scene is probably the most important difference between Auto-HDR and real HDR.

If someone did not use reason to reach their conclusion in the first place, you cannot use reason to convince them otherwise.

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21 hours ago, Stahlmann said:

Skyrim is a good example on why i don't like AutoHDR. Because most of the UI including text is just white, the AutoHDR feature will render these at full brightness. I personally don't want my UI to permanently blast at me with 650 nits. It was even worse when i still had my PG35VQ because this monitor could do 1100 nits and so that's what it did all the time.

 

The distinction between UI and the 3D-scene is probably the most important difference between Auto-HDR and real HDR.

I don't mind the brighter UI myself, and quite a few of HDR games also have brighten UI so it's not entirely a bug.

 

I have more issue with how they've made every patch of white radiant like the suface of the sun. My fur tent shouldn't look like it was illuminating just because it has a patch of white fur. Also not sure if it's because of the auto HDR or my mod but the highlight on skin tone also look kinda off - like green even but overall, I don't really hate it for this game in particulr

 

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