Jump to content

My Dad Thougt Putting iMac out in 0C (32F) would fix it. What do I Do to prevent condensation?

AMixOfGeekContent

My dad thought putting a broken iMac out in the cold (0 degrees celsius ie 32F) would fix its screen problem.

I found out about this 22 minutes later.

Can I fix it or prevent or minimize damage from condensation?

If not, what happens if I plug in a water damaged HDD into another PC while trying to backup the data? Will the HDD damage whatever I plug it into?

 

Edit: it's not a laptop. It's an iMac. Didn't mean to confuse anyone there.

iirc, it's a 2011 model, 27" screen Intel iMac.

I might open it up and see if there's any water droplets or signs of corrosion (though there shouldn't be any corrosion since no one turned on the computer after it was in the cold, right?).

I was thinking of opening it up anyways because the screen was broken before it was out in the cold.

 

Details:

When I brought it in, he plugged it in, but I stopped him from turning it on.

I blew air at it hoping that would help. But I don't think I got a good blow inside the vents.

I left it in my room for a couple minutes (room is 21.1C or 70F). Googled it. Then I found out how condensation can damage a laptop that was in a fridge lol.

Later, I put it near an open door (i.e. not as cold as outside, not as warm as inside) to try and minimize condensation from a more slower, gradual temperature change.

Now the door is closed, and I turned on the ceiling fan to hopefully reduce moisture in the air.

Note: no actual water was spilled on the imac. Any water damage would be from condensation.

 

 

Please let me know, especially about the Hard drive question above. Cuz if the HDD can damage my PC, I do not wanna plug it in there!

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well depending on how much moisture there is...

 

A previously submerged device left at room termperature should be fine after 7 days without a power source connected.

 

If it only has been cold 24 hours should be plenty at room temp. First it needs to warm up so the condensation can evaporate and as much as possible leave the laptop. Generally if you don't mind the risk it may be ok to use once it's warmed up (to room temp), which I mostly do and have had no problems with but none of those things have been a iMac...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I wouldn't worry about it and just turn it on now, it's going to be totally fine. During university I would regularly turn on my laptop immediately after spending at least that long in much colder weather with no ill effects. Granted it was in a bag, but it was always cold enough that the metal parts of the chassis were unpleasant to touch.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

 

Desktop:

Intel Core i7-11700K | Noctua NH-D15S chromax.black | ASUS ROG Strix Z590-E Gaming WiFi  | 32 GB G.SKILL TridentZ 3200 MHz | ASUS TUF Gaming RTX 3080 | 1TB Samsung 980 Pro M.2 PCIe 4.0 SSD | 2TB WD Blue M.2 SATA SSD | Seasonic Focus GX-850 Fractal Design Meshify C Windows 10 Pro

 

Laptop:

HP Omen 15 | AMD Ryzen 7 5800H | 16 GB 3200 MHz | Nvidia RTX 3060 | 1 TB WD Black PCIe 3.0 SSD | 512 GB Micron PCIe 3.0 SSD | Windows 11

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Option 1: While it is still in the 0C environment, turn on the laptop. It'll warm itself up, you can warm it up more by running intensive tasks. Once it's warm you can bring it back to a warm environment with no concern for condensation.

 

Option 2: While it is still in the 0C environment, remove the battery and press the power button a couple times. Then bring the laptop inside and let it sit for 24 hours. After 24 hours put the battery back in and you can use it as normal, any condensation will have dried up, and will not have caused any damage.

BabyBlu (Primary): 

  • CPU: Intel Core i9 9900K @ up to 5.3GHz, 5.0GHz all-core, delidded
  • Motherboard: Asus Maximus XI Hero
  • RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 4x8GB DDR4-3200 @ 4000MHz 16-18-18-34
  • GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Sea Hawk EK X, 2070MHz core, 8000MHz mem
  • Case: Phanteks Evolv X
  • Storage: XPG SX8200 Pro 2TB, 3x ADATASU800 1TB (RAID 0), Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB
  • PSU: Corsair HX1000i
  • Display: MSI MPG341CQR 34" 3440x1440 144Hz Freesync, Dell S2417DG 24" 2560x1440 165Hz Gsync
  • Cooling: Custom water loop (CPU & GPU), Radiators: 1x140mm(Back), 1x280mm(Top), 1x420mm(Front)
  • Keyboard: Corsair Strafe RGB (Cherry MX Brown)
  • Mouse: MasterMouse MM710
  • Headset: Corsair Void Pro RGB
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Roxanne (Wife Build):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 4790K @ up to 5.0GHz, 4.8Ghz all-core, relidded w/ LM
  • Motherboard: Asus Z97A
  • RAM: G.Skill Sniper 4x8GB DDR3-2400 @ 10-12-12-24
  • GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 w/ LM
  • Case: Corsair Vengeance C70, w/ Custom Side-Panel Window
  • Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB, Silicon Power A80 2TB NVME
  • PSU: Corsair AX760
  • Display: Samsung C27JG56 27" 2560x1440 144Hz Freesync
  • Cooling: Corsair H115i RGB
  • Keyboard: GMMK TKL(Kailh Box White)
  • Mouse: Glorious Model O-
  • Headset: SteelSeries Arctis 7
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

BigBox (HTPC):

  • CPU: Ryzen 5800X3D
  • Motherboard: Gigabyte B550i Aorus Pro AX
  • RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x8GB DDR4-3600 @ 3600MHz 14-14-14-28
  • GPU: MSI RTX 3080 Ventus 3X Plus OC, de-shrouded, LM TIM, replaced mem therm pads
  • Case: Fractal Design Node 202
  • Storage: SP A80 1TB, WD Black SN770 2TB
  • PSU: Corsair SF600 Gold w/ NF-A9x14
  • Display: Samsung QN90A 65" (QLED, 4K, 120Hz, HDR, VRR)
  • Cooling: Thermalright AXP-100 Copper w/ NF-A12x15
  • Keyboard/Mouse: Rii i4
  • Controllers: 4X Xbox One & 2X N64 (with USB)
  • Sound: Denon AVR S760H with 5.1.2 Atmos setup.
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Harmonic (NAS/Game/Plex/Other Server):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 6700
  • Motherboard: ASRock FATAL1TY H270M
  • RAM: 64GB DDR4-2133
  • GPU: Intel HD Graphics 530
  • Case: Fractal Design Define 7
  • HDD: 3X Seagate Exos X16 14TB in RAID 5
  • SSD: Inland Premium 512GB NVME, Sabrent 1TB NVME
  • Optical: BDXL WH14NS40 flashed to WH16NS60
  • PSU: Corsair CX450
  • Display: None
  • Cooling: Noctua NH-U14S
  • Keyboard/Mouse: None
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

NAS:

  • Synology DS216J
  • 2x8TB WD Red NAS HDDs in RAID 1. 8TB usable space
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Hairless Monkey Boy said:

Option 1: While it is still in the 0C environment, turn on the laptop. It'll warm itself up, you can warm it up more by running intensive tasks. Once it's warm you can bring it back to a warm environment with no concern for condensation.

 

Option 2: While it is still in the 0C environment, remove the battery and press the power button a couple times. Then bring the laptop inside and let it sit for 24 hours. After 24 hours put the battery back in and you can use it as normal, any condensation will have dried up, and will not have caused any damage.

But I read that the sudden change in temperature is what can cause condensation. So I'm definitely not trying option 1.

Hopefully option 2 is good enough.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, AMixOfGeekContent said:

But I read that the sudden change in temperature is what can cause condensation.

That's not completely correct. Condensation forms on a surface when the surface temperature is at or below the dew point. The dew point depends on the temperature and relative humidity of the air.

 

Condensation will not form on the laptop at all if you do option one. It is not physically possible. A warm object in a cold environment can not collect condensation, only a cold object in a warm environment can.

BabyBlu (Primary): 

  • CPU: Intel Core i9 9900K @ up to 5.3GHz, 5.0GHz all-core, delidded
  • Motherboard: Asus Maximus XI Hero
  • RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 4x8GB DDR4-3200 @ 4000MHz 16-18-18-34
  • GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Sea Hawk EK X, 2070MHz core, 8000MHz mem
  • Case: Phanteks Evolv X
  • Storage: XPG SX8200 Pro 2TB, 3x ADATASU800 1TB (RAID 0), Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB
  • PSU: Corsair HX1000i
  • Display: MSI MPG341CQR 34" 3440x1440 144Hz Freesync, Dell S2417DG 24" 2560x1440 165Hz Gsync
  • Cooling: Custom water loop (CPU & GPU), Radiators: 1x140mm(Back), 1x280mm(Top), 1x420mm(Front)
  • Keyboard: Corsair Strafe RGB (Cherry MX Brown)
  • Mouse: MasterMouse MM710
  • Headset: Corsair Void Pro RGB
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Roxanne (Wife Build):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 4790K @ up to 5.0GHz, 4.8Ghz all-core, relidded w/ LM
  • Motherboard: Asus Z97A
  • RAM: G.Skill Sniper 4x8GB DDR3-2400 @ 10-12-12-24
  • GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 w/ LM
  • Case: Corsair Vengeance C70, w/ Custom Side-Panel Window
  • Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB, Silicon Power A80 2TB NVME
  • PSU: Corsair AX760
  • Display: Samsung C27JG56 27" 2560x1440 144Hz Freesync
  • Cooling: Corsair H115i RGB
  • Keyboard: GMMK TKL(Kailh Box White)
  • Mouse: Glorious Model O-
  • Headset: SteelSeries Arctis 7
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

BigBox (HTPC):

  • CPU: Ryzen 5800X3D
  • Motherboard: Gigabyte B550i Aorus Pro AX
  • RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x8GB DDR4-3600 @ 3600MHz 14-14-14-28
  • GPU: MSI RTX 3080 Ventus 3X Plus OC, de-shrouded, LM TIM, replaced mem therm pads
  • Case: Fractal Design Node 202
  • Storage: SP A80 1TB, WD Black SN770 2TB
  • PSU: Corsair SF600 Gold w/ NF-A9x14
  • Display: Samsung QN90A 65" (QLED, 4K, 120Hz, HDR, VRR)
  • Cooling: Thermalright AXP-100 Copper w/ NF-A12x15
  • Keyboard/Mouse: Rii i4
  • Controllers: 4X Xbox One & 2X N64 (with USB)
  • Sound: Denon AVR S760H with 5.1.2 Atmos setup.
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Harmonic (NAS/Game/Plex/Other Server):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 6700
  • Motherboard: ASRock FATAL1TY H270M
  • RAM: 64GB DDR4-2133
  • GPU: Intel HD Graphics 530
  • Case: Fractal Design Define 7
  • HDD: 3X Seagate Exos X16 14TB in RAID 5
  • SSD: Inland Premium 512GB NVME, Sabrent 1TB NVME
  • Optical: BDXL WH14NS40 flashed to WH16NS60
  • PSU: Corsair CX450
  • Display: None
  • Cooling: Noctua NH-U14S
  • Keyboard/Mouse: None
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

NAS:

  • Synology DS216J
  • 2x8TB WD Red NAS HDDs in RAID 1. 8TB usable space
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

It'll be perfectly fine. My garage doubles as my workshop in the winter, and it regularly gets down to those temperatures. None of the computers I store and use out there have any issues at all.

 

By the way, you mentioned that the iMac is a 2011 27" model. If that is accurate, the screen is not the issue - the graphics card is. It's a very well known issue with the 2011 iMac (along with the 2011 15"/17" MacBook Pro and 2011 Mac mini) that will not be solved by making the computer cold. You'll need to reflow the GPU with a heat gun or an oven, or you'll need to replace the GPU entirely. 

 

14 minutes ago, Hairless Monkey Boy said:

Option 2: While it is still in the 0C environment, remove the battery and press the power button a couple times. Then bring the laptop inside and let it sit for 24 hours. After 24 hours put the battery back in and you can use it as normal, any condensation will have dried up, and will not have caused any damage.

OP is talking about an iMac, not a laptop. But still, 22 minutes in the cold is not long enough to cause condensation issues. It's fine to power it up. 

Phobos: AMD Ryzen 7 2700, 16GB 3000MHz DDR4, ASRock B450 Steel Legend, 8GB Nvidia GeForce RTX 2070, 2GB Nvidia GeForce GT 1030, 1TB Samsung SSD 980, 450W Corsair CXM, Corsair Carbide 175R, Windows 10 Pro

 

Polaris: Intel Xeon E5-2697 v2, 32GB 1600MHz DDR3, ASRock X79 Extreme6, 12GB Nvidia GeForce RTX 3080, 6GB Nvidia GeForce GTX 1660 Ti, 1TB Crucial MX500, 750W Corsair RM750, Antec SX635, Windows 10 Pro

 

Pluto: Intel Core i7-2600, 32GB 1600MHz DDR3, ASUS P8Z68-V, 4GB XFX AMD Radeon RX 570, 8GB ASUS AMD Radeon RX 570, 1TB Samsung 860 EVO, 3TB Seagate BarraCuda, 750W EVGA BQ, Fractal Design Focus G, Windows 10 Pro for Workstations

 

York (NAS): Intel Core i5-2400, 16GB 1600MHz DDR3, HP Compaq OEM, 240GB Kingston V300 (boot), 3x2TB Seagate BarraCuda, 320W HP PSU, HP Compaq 6200 Pro, TrueNAS CORE (12.0)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

What i wouldve done is open the back (if thats still a thing) and then jsut have it evaporate off in room temp.
If its really bad put a fan on it so it s bit faster.
Check out the system if you dont see any corrosion you're good to go, maybe.
Then make sure you wait long enough en test.

When i ask for more specs, don't expect me to know the answer!
I'm just helping YOU to help YOURSELF!
(The more info you give the easier it is for others to help you out!)

Not willing to capitulate to the ignorance of the masses!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

39 minutes ago, Hairless Monkey Boy said:

That's not completely correct. Condensation forms on a surface when the surface temperature is at or below the dew point. The dew point depends on the temperature and relative humidity of the air.

 

Condensation will not form on the laptop at all if you do option one. It is not physically possible. A warm object in a cold environment can not collect condensation, only a cold object in a warm environment can.

Okay. I should probably understand dew point stuff since I graduated from chemical engineering but I forgot lol. I'm guessing option 1 worked for you in the past?
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

the condensation isnt the problem.  the problem is plugging it into power as long there's still moisture. 

 

you have to wait couple of days for it to fully dry*. opening the case would obviously help with this. just keep it in warm dry place until its fully dried basically. 

 

if you plug it in before that permanent damage is (highly) likely. 

 

*edit: obviously if it was only outside for "22 minutes" you wouldn't need to wait that long

 

The direction tells you... the direction

-Scott Manley, 2021

 

Softwares used:

Corsair Link (Anime Edition) 

MSI Afterburner 

OpenRGB

Lively Wallpaper 

OBS Studio

Shutter Encoder

Avidemux

FSResizer

Audacity 

VLC

WMP

GIMP

HWiNFO64

Paint

3D Paint

GitHub Desktop 

Superposition 

Prime95

Aida64

GPUZ

CPUZ

Generic Logviewer

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

38 minutes ago, BondiBlue said:

It'll be perfectly fine. My garage doubles as my workshop in the winter, and it regularly gets down to those temperatures. None of the computers I store and use out there have any issues at all.

 

By the way, you mentioned that the iMac is a 2011 27" model. If that is accurate, the screen is not the issue - the graphics card is. It's a very well known issue with the 2011 iMac (along with the 2011 15"/17" MacBook Pro and 2011 Mac mini) that will not be solved by making the computer cold. You'll need to reflow the GPU with a heat gun or an oven, or you'll need to replace the GPU entirely. 

 

OP is talking about an iMac, not a laptop. But still, 22 minutes in the cold is not long enough to cause condensation issues. It's fine to power it up. 

Yeah, My dad tried turning it off and on, and said there were a bunch of pink and grey lines on the screen. Reminds me of my PC sometimes briefly having glitchy graphics at startup.

And the next time, his iMac just showed a white screen.

 

I'm too afraid to put a GPU in the oven, and I don't have a heat gun. But the info helps.

Wwho knows how much that GPU costs? (hopefully not as much as faster GPUs these days). Assuming it's not soldered.

I was thinking if anyone can fix an iMac fora  reasonable price, it's Louis Rossmann. But he's in New York City and I'm in Canada. Anyone know if there are similar Apple repair stores in Canada?

 

But then again, my dad said he's always worrying about the iMac, which he doesn't wanna do. He mentioned something like it gets hot? He saw someone on YOuTube taping their mac or something because of this? I figure I could open the iMac (and maybe its GPU) and blow dust out of it. It worked for my old GPU (tho blowing air into the GPU wasn't enough. I had to open the GPU itself).

 

Thanks for the info.
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

45 minutes ago, BondiBlue said:

22 minutes in the cold is not long enough to cause condensation issues. It's fine to power it up. 

wouldn't be to sure about that, if the air had really high humidity either inside or outside it might have been enough [that's besides "22 minutes" is an oddly precise figure anyhow]

 

but, i agree insofar, even if there was some condensation,  it shouldn't be so bad and a few hours should be probably enough to get rid of any moisture (hopefully)

The direction tells you... the direction

-Scott Manley, 2021

 

Softwares used:

Corsair Link (Anime Edition) 

MSI Afterburner 

OpenRGB

Lively Wallpaper 

OBS Studio

Shutter Encoder

Avidemux

FSResizer

Audacity 

VLC

WMP

GIMP

HWiNFO64

Paint

3D Paint

GitHub Desktop 

Superposition 

Prime95

Aida64

GPUZ

CPUZ

Generic Logviewer

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Mark Kaine said:

wouldn't be to sure about that, if the air had really high humidity either inside or outside it might have been enough [that's besides "22 minutes" is an oddly precise figure anyhow]

 

but, i agree insofar, even if there was some condensation,  it shouldn't be so bad and a few hours should be probably enough to get rid of any moisture (hopefully)

Lol my Dad said 22 minutes. Or 20-something minutes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, AMixOfGeekContent said:

Lol my Dad said 22 minutes. Or 20-something minutes.

lol, i mean if you wait(ed) 1-2 hours before turning it on, it would probably be fine.  

 

im just going from a worst case scenario and well, condensation *can* damage a computer... its difficult to say if such a short amount of time does anything, really. 

 

The direction tells you... the direction

-Scott Manley, 2021

 

Softwares used:

Corsair Link (Anime Edition) 

MSI Afterburner 

OpenRGB

Lively Wallpaper 

OBS Studio

Shutter Encoder

Avidemux

FSResizer

Audacity 

VLC

WMP

GIMP

HWiNFO64

Paint

3D Paint

GitHub Desktop 

Superposition 

Prime95

Aida64

GPUZ

CPUZ

Generic Logviewer

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I once left a laptop outside in the garage for 2 years when I moved. We see -35C in winters. Brought it in last February, plugged it in and fired it right up. 

I'm not actually trying to be as grumpy as it seems.

I will find your mentions of Ikea or Gnome and I will /s post. 

Project Hot Box

CPU 13900k, Motherboard Gigabyte Aorus Elite AX, RAM CORSAIR Vengeance 4x16gb 5200 MHZ, GPU Zotac RTX 4090 Trinity OC, Case Fractal Pop Air XL, Storage Sabrent Rocket Q4 2tbCORSAIR Force Series MP510 1920GB NVMe, CORSAIR FORCE Series MP510 960GB NVMe, PSU CORSAIR HX1000i, Cooling Corsair XC8 CPU block, Bykski GPU block, 360mm and 280mm radiator, Displays Odyssey G9, LG 34UC98-W 34-Inch,Keyboard Mountain Everest Max, Mouse Mountain Makalu 67, Sound AT2035, Massdrop 6xx headphones, Go XLR 

Oppbevaring

CPU i9-9900k, Motherboard, ASUS Rog Maximus Code XI, RAM, 48GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB 3200 mhz (2x16)+(2x8) GPUs Asus ROG Strix 2070 8gb, PNY 1080, Nvidia 1080, Case Mining Frame, 2x Storage Samsung 860 Evo 500 GB, PSU Corsair RM1000x and RM850x, Cooling Asus Rog Ryuo 240 with Noctua NF-12 fans

 

Why is the 5800x so hot?

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

So thanks everybody for the replies.

Sounds like it's not as bad as i thought (well, at least for the condensation issue. There's still the screen issue).

I did notice my screen door window was wet on the inside from condensation tho. So yeah there's enough moisture in the air inside.

But then again, still, sounds like I just have to give the iMac time to evapourate any water inside, if at all. (unless iMacs are different from other PCs, which, from what I've heard, is quite possible for Apple products? But I figure a computer's a computer in this case. If this is wrong, plz let me know.).

Not sure if I'll open it today after all for that extra measure tho*. Should be fine, right?

 

 

*cuz my back hurts. I'll be fine tho, so don't worry.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, AMixOfGeekContent said:

So thanks everybody for the replies.

Sounds like it's not as bad as i thought (well, at least for the condensation issue. There's still the screen issue).

I did notice my screen door window was wet on the inside from condensation tho. So yeah there's enough moisture in the air inside.

But then again, still, sounds like I just have to give the iMac time to evapourate any water inside, if at all. (unless iMacs are different from other PCs, which, from what I've heard, is quite possible for Apple products? But I figure a computer's a computer in this case. If this is wrong, plz let me know.).

Not sure if I'll open it today after all for that extra measure tho*. Should be fine, right?

 

 

*cuz my back hurts. I'll be fine tho, so don't worry.

 

Opening up os more for worst case scenario. Just let it 'acclimate' overnight and most likely it will be fine.

From a moisture perspective. No idea about the screen itself tho.

 

Best of luck with your back, as having had back-aches i know. It sucks.

When i ask for more specs, don't expect me to know the answer!
I'm just helping YOU to help YOURSELF!
(The more info you give the easier it is for others to help you out!)

Not willing to capitulate to the ignorance of the masses!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

PS Can plugging in the iMac (but not turning it on) start any water damage? Just in case anyone missed that part in my OP.

I'm no expert in electricity. So I'm just worried what if plugging it in put in a little bit of power into the iMac? P.S. the outlet might not have ground, if that matters. It's not the main outlet we use for computers tho. Those ones are grounded).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, AMixOfGeekContent said:

PS Can plugging in the iMac (but not turning it on) start any water damage?

Yes. If it was wet when you plugged it in, that can cause damage even if you do not turn it on.

BabyBlu (Primary): 

  • CPU: Intel Core i9 9900K @ up to 5.3GHz, 5.0GHz all-core, delidded
  • Motherboard: Asus Maximus XI Hero
  • RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 4x8GB DDR4-3200 @ 4000MHz 16-18-18-34
  • GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Sea Hawk EK X, 2070MHz core, 8000MHz mem
  • Case: Phanteks Evolv X
  • Storage: XPG SX8200 Pro 2TB, 3x ADATASU800 1TB (RAID 0), Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB
  • PSU: Corsair HX1000i
  • Display: MSI MPG341CQR 34" 3440x1440 144Hz Freesync, Dell S2417DG 24" 2560x1440 165Hz Gsync
  • Cooling: Custom water loop (CPU & GPU), Radiators: 1x140mm(Back), 1x280mm(Top), 1x420mm(Front)
  • Keyboard: Corsair Strafe RGB (Cherry MX Brown)
  • Mouse: MasterMouse MM710
  • Headset: Corsair Void Pro RGB
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Roxanne (Wife Build):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 4790K @ up to 5.0GHz, 4.8Ghz all-core, relidded w/ LM
  • Motherboard: Asus Z97A
  • RAM: G.Skill Sniper 4x8GB DDR3-2400 @ 10-12-12-24
  • GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 w/ LM
  • Case: Corsair Vengeance C70, w/ Custom Side-Panel Window
  • Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB, Silicon Power A80 2TB NVME
  • PSU: Corsair AX760
  • Display: Samsung C27JG56 27" 2560x1440 144Hz Freesync
  • Cooling: Corsair H115i RGB
  • Keyboard: GMMK TKL(Kailh Box White)
  • Mouse: Glorious Model O-
  • Headset: SteelSeries Arctis 7
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

BigBox (HTPC):

  • CPU: Ryzen 5800X3D
  • Motherboard: Gigabyte B550i Aorus Pro AX
  • RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x8GB DDR4-3600 @ 3600MHz 14-14-14-28
  • GPU: MSI RTX 3080 Ventus 3X Plus OC, de-shrouded, LM TIM, replaced mem therm pads
  • Case: Fractal Design Node 202
  • Storage: SP A80 1TB, WD Black SN770 2TB
  • PSU: Corsair SF600 Gold w/ NF-A9x14
  • Display: Samsung QN90A 65" (QLED, 4K, 120Hz, HDR, VRR)
  • Cooling: Thermalright AXP-100 Copper w/ NF-A12x15
  • Keyboard/Mouse: Rii i4
  • Controllers: 4X Xbox One & 2X N64 (with USB)
  • Sound: Denon AVR S760H with 5.1.2 Atmos setup.
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Harmonic (NAS/Game/Plex/Other Server):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 6700
  • Motherboard: ASRock FATAL1TY H270M
  • RAM: 64GB DDR4-2133
  • GPU: Intel HD Graphics 530
  • Case: Fractal Design Define 7
  • HDD: 3X Seagate Exos X16 14TB in RAID 5
  • SSD: Inland Premium 512GB NVME, Sabrent 1TB NVME
  • Optical: BDXL WH14NS40 flashed to WH16NS60
  • PSU: Corsair CX450
  • Display: None
  • Cooling: Noctua NH-U14S
  • Keyboard/Mouse: None
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

NAS:

  • Synology DS216J
  • 2x8TB WD Red NAS HDDs in RAID 1. 8TB usable space
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

25 minutes ago, Hairless Monkey Boy said:

Yes. If it was wet when you plugged it in, that can cause damage even if you do not turn it on.

Uh oh. Hopefully it was plugged in too soon for any condensation to happen....

EDIT: I think the plug itself was dry. I'm guessing I would've noticed if it was dripping wet. It was on some ice that was dry.

I don't know for the inside of the iMac itself tho.

Assuming it was wet, would the hard drive be damaged?

Should I risk plugging the hard drive to my PC/installing it in my PC to try to recover data? Or could it damage my PC?

Would the outlet still be safe to use?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, AMixOfGeekContent said:

PS Can plugging in the iMac (but not turning it on) start any water damage? Just in case anyone missed that part in my OP.

yeap... it can, but its probably less likely than when you had actually turned it on.  i strongly suggest to unplug now [very carefully  : D ] if you haven't already and wait until its dry... if you really see some water/condensation it'll take a few days for sure (warm dry well ventilated space helps obviously)

 

 

Just a "fun" story: i had an old Pentium 1 pc standing under a window for several years, and well, it did rain sometimes and window was open,  which meant pc was completely soaked over night several times... but i had A) a plastic cover over the monitor - it would have definitely been damaged otherwise and B) i never had it plugged in when this happened,  so C) i always waited about a week for it to dry completely,  and D) the pc still works!  = )

 

tldr: wait until its fully dried and hope for the best, i guess! o.o

 

 

The direction tells you... the direction

-Scott Manley, 2021

 

Softwares used:

Corsair Link (Anime Edition) 

MSI Afterburner 

OpenRGB

Lively Wallpaper 

OBS Studio

Shutter Encoder

Avidemux

FSResizer

Audacity 

VLC

WMP

GIMP

HWiNFO64

Paint

3D Paint

GitHub Desktop 

Superposition 

Prime95

Aida64

GPUZ

CPUZ

Generic Logviewer

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, AMixOfGeekContent said:

Yeah, My dad tried turning it off and on, and said there were a bunch of pink and grey lines on the screen. Reminds me of my PC sometimes briefly having glitchy graphics at startup.

And the next time, his iMac just showed a white screen.

Those are the classic symptoms of GPU failures in these iMacs. It's an extremely well known issue.

 

1 hour ago, AMixOfGeekContent said:

I'm too afraid to put a GPU in the oven, and I don't have a heat gun. But the info helps.

Wwho knows how much that GPU costs? (hopefully not as much as faster GPUs these days). Assuming it's not soldered.

Unfortunately replacements on eBay for that card are still rather expensive, and they're also prone to failure. The only way you can get a GPU that isn't prone to failure is to use a different card, but they're not exactly cheap, and they'e also not plug and play. You could also downgrade to a much older GPU (like a Radeon HD 4670), but I wouldn't do that with a 2011 iMac. If you aren't willing to try a reflow (which absolutely can work - I'm typing this reply on a 2011 27" iMac with a GPU I reflowed a year and a half ago, and it's been running flawlessly) then a replacement is your only option. 

 

1 hour ago, AMixOfGeekContent said:

I was thinking if anyone can fix an iMac fora  reasonable price, it's Louis Rossmann. But he's in New York City and I'm in Canada. Anyone know if there are similar Apple repair stores in Canada?

Are you comfortable removing some screws and working on it yourself? The 2011 iMac is the last iMac that is easy to open, and replacing a GPU isn't that difficult as long as you take your time. The GPU isn't soldered either, so you don't need specialty repair. 

 

1 hour ago, AMixOfGeekContent said:

But then again, my dad said he's always worrying about the iMac, which he doesn't wanna do. He mentioned something like it gets hot? He saw someone on YOuTube taping their mac or something because of this? I figure I could open the iMac (and maybe its GPU) and blow dust out of it. It worked for my old GPU (tho blowing air into the GPU wasn't enough. I had to open the GPU itself).

Dust is not the issue. The issue with these GPUs is solder; the chip loses proper connection which leads to issues. As for tape, I'm not sure what you mean. These iMacs don't use tape to hold on the displays like the 2012 and later models do. 

 

Overall you have a couple options: reflow the GPU yourself and see if it'll live or replace the GPU with one that isn't prone to failure. Unfortunately there's nothing you can really do without opening the iMac once issues like this set in. I've dealt with it several times myself, so I know the challenges with it. 

Phobos: AMD Ryzen 7 2700, 16GB 3000MHz DDR4, ASRock B450 Steel Legend, 8GB Nvidia GeForce RTX 2070, 2GB Nvidia GeForce GT 1030, 1TB Samsung SSD 980, 450W Corsair CXM, Corsair Carbide 175R, Windows 10 Pro

 

Polaris: Intel Xeon E5-2697 v2, 32GB 1600MHz DDR3, ASRock X79 Extreme6, 12GB Nvidia GeForce RTX 3080, 6GB Nvidia GeForce GTX 1660 Ti, 1TB Crucial MX500, 750W Corsair RM750, Antec SX635, Windows 10 Pro

 

Pluto: Intel Core i7-2600, 32GB 1600MHz DDR3, ASUS P8Z68-V, 4GB XFX AMD Radeon RX 570, 8GB ASUS AMD Radeon RX 570, 1TB Samsung 860 EVO, 3TB Seagate BarraCuda, 750W EVGA BQ, Fractal Design Focus G, Windows 10 Pro for Workstations

 

York (NAS): Intel Core i5-2400, 16GB 1600MHz DDR3, HP Compaq OEM, 240GB Kingston V300 (boot), 3x2TB Seagate BarraCuda, 320W HP PSU, HP Compaq 6200 Pro, TrueNAS CORE (12.0)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

24 minutes ago, BondiBlue said:

Those are the classic symptoms of GPU failures in these iMacs. It's an extremely well known issue.

 

Unfortunately replacements on eBay for that card are still rather expensive, and they're also prone to failure. The only way you can get a GPU that isn't prone to failure is to use a different card, but they're not exactly cheap, and they'e also not plug and play. You could also downgrade to a much older GPU (like a Radeon HD 4670), but I wouldn't do that with a 2011 iMac. If you aren't willing to try a reflow (which absolutely can work - I'm typing this reply on a 2011 27" iMac with a GPU I reflowed a year and a half ago, and it's been running flawlessly) then a replacement is your only option. 

 

Are you comfortable removing some screws and working on it yourself? The 2011 iMac is the last iMac that is easy to open, and replacing a GPU isn't that difficult as long as you take your time. The GPU isn't soldered either, so you don't need specialty repair. 

 

Dust is not the issue. The issue with these GPUs is solder; the chip loses proper connection which leads to issues. As for tape, I'm not sure what you mean. These iMacs don't use tape to hold on the displays like the 2012 and later models do. 

 

Overall you have a couple options: reflow the GPU yourself and see if it'll live or replace the GPU with one that isn't prone to failure. Unfortunately there's nothing you can really do without opening the iMac once issues like this set in. I've dealt with it several times myself, so I know the challenges with it. 

Hmm... So i looked up what reflowing a GPU means... Not sure I want to solder stuff. Or is it as simple as just blow a hair dryer at it, no soldering required?

Like I'm fine with opening up a PC (as long as anything that can electrocute me is not easily exposed*). But when it comes to soldering or sawing stuff or baking stuff in an oven, that's different.

 

I saw a big post on replacing the iMac's GPU. The costs and skills required (e.g. dremel cut part of a graphics card so it fits) seems too much trouble and money than it's worth. My dad's using a spare laptop for now.

 

Thanks for the info tho.

 

* I remember a Linus video where he and Rossmann were fixing an iMac, and they said don't touch this thing. It can kill you, even if it's unplugged iirc. And they weren't really sure why it was exposed. Different model iMac, but... ... I feel like now I gotta worry extra when opening up an Apple product.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, AMixOfGeekContent said:

Hmm... So i looked up what reflowing a GPU means... Not sure I want to solder stuff. Or is it as simple as just blow a hair dryer at it, no soldering required?

Like I'm fine with opening up a PC (as long as anything that can electrocute me is not easily exposed*). But when it comes to soldering or sawing stuff or baking stuff in an oven, that's different.

You're not soldering anything. You don't need to even own a soldering iron at all in order to reflow a GPU. A hair dryer will not work though - you need to use an oven or a heat gun. Yes, the power supply is exposed, but you don't need to touch it. Even if you do touch it it won't kill you unless it's literally plugged in, which it won't be. I've shocked myself a few times on those power supplies while working on various things, and it's not that bad. If you're not comfortable working near it then have someone else do it or sell the iMac for parts. 

Phobos: AMD Ryzen 7 2700, 16GB 3000MHz DDR4, ASRock B450 Steel Legend, 8GB Nvidia GeForce RTX 2070, 2GB Nvidia GeForce GT 1030, 1TB Samsung SSD 980, 450W Corsair CXM, Corsair Carbide 175R, Windows 10 Pro

 

Polaris: Intel Xeon E5-2697 v2, 32GB 1600MHz DDR3, ASRock X79 Extreme6, 12GB Nvidia GeForce RTX 3080, 6GB Nvidia GeForce GTX 1660 Ti, 1TB Crucial MX500, 750W Corsair RM750, Antec SX635, Windows 10 Pro

 

Pluto: Intel Core i7-2600, 32GB 1600MHz DDR3, ASUS P8Z68-V, 4GB XFX AMD Radeon RX 570, 8GB ASUS AMD Radeon RX 570, 1TB Samsung 860 EVO, 3TB Seagate BarraCuda, 750W EVGA BQ, Fractal Design Focus G, Windows 10 Pro for Workstations

 

York (NAS): Intel Core i5-2400, 16GB 1600MHz DDR3, HP Compaq OEM, 240GB Kingston V300 (boot), 3x2TB Seagate BarraCuda, 320W HP PSU, HP Compaq 6200 Pro, TrueNAS CORE (12.0)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×