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Evil Coiled Cables

I have Beyerdynamics DT-990 Pros and I can't stand the coiled cable on them. I hate coiled cables so much I returned my m50's when I got them to get a straight cable version since it drove me nuts. The problem is there is no opinion for a straight cable for the DT-990s that is at a price point I like when I bought them (I can't return them now). I am obviously not going to refuse use of these great sounding headphones due to this but there has to be a way. Does anyone have a method or way of making the cable straight or at least longer?

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mod the cable yourself, or buy an extension.

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mod the cable yourself, or buy an extension.

Well I came on here for people to give me moding options or methods......

I never thought of getting an extension. If I were to get one it would be have to be long enough to make sure I never have to use the dreaded coiled part of the cable. Does adding connectors or length harm perceived audio quality? 

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Well I came on here for people to give me moding options or methods......

I never thought of getting an extension. If I were to get one it would be have to be long enough to make sure I never have to use the dreaded coiled part of the cable. Does adding connectors or length harm perceived audio quality? 

unless you buy shitty cables with jacks that barely fit and aren't running it up a flight of stairs, no. 

Error: 410

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unless you buy shitty cables with jacks that barely fit and aren't running it up a flight of stairs, no. 

O duh that's why I never thought of getting an extension I still would have to use the coil part of the cable. I hate the weight of the coiled cable, it pulls on my headphones too much. Plus if I get an extension it would still want to unravel when moved which I find to be an annoying feeling and it gets caught on everything. Subsequently, I am in the processes of getting the dt-990's replaced by beyerdynamics, the cable connection is loose now and it randomly cuts the right speaker sometimes. I like to listen to music with my headphones when I am doing my hobbies like juggling or yoyoing, which require standing. I usually just stretch the cable and hook it on something to give it more slack, but its annoying.

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O duh that's why I never thought of getting an extension I still would have to use the coil part of the cable. I hate the weight of the coiled cable, it pulls on my headphones too much. Plus if I get an extension it would still want to unravel when moved which I find to be an annoying feeling and it gets caught on everything. Subsequently, I am in the processes of getting the dt-990's replaced by beyerdynamics, the cable connection is loose now and it randomly cuts the right speaker sometimes. I like to listen to music with my headphones when I am doing my hobbies like juggling or yoyoing, which require standing. I usually just stretch the cable and hook it on something to give it more slack, but its annoying.

 

Well, provided that the beyer accept your replacement request, might as well tell them about the coil cable problem. Don't say you just 'hate it', but say something like you need a long cable, and the coil tension just keep on pulling on your headphone, causing the headphone end of the cable to quickly becomes loose/break. Who knows, perhaps they can give you the solution like doing the mod for you, or point you to where the mod can be done.

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Not what I was originally looking for, but has given me an idea to try it. It looks simple to do but my soldering skills is like 5 days old, as in I did my first soldering 5 days ago haha I simply was trying to re-wire my guitar to try and find the grounding issue, to no avail. It wasn't too hard to do but I really don't want to possibly screw up $150 headphones....but it looks like a fun project though...

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Not what I was originally looking for, but has given me an idea to try it. It looks simple to do but my soldering skills is like 5 days old, as in I did my first soldering 5 days ago haha I simply was trying to re-wire my guitar to try and find the grounding issue, to no avail. It wasn't too hard to do but I really don't want to possibly screw up $150 headphones....but it looks like a fun project though...

 

Or you could take them to an electronic servicing (independent ones, not those brand authorized ones), and have them do the mods for you. Outside of the materials (good quality cables), may only cost you around $20

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I actually don't mind coiled cables. Their more durable and my hands have something to play with when not on the keyboard. 

Completely agree with this, but I'm still getting sennheiser hd 558s.

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After breaking a set of AKG headphones with a short, straight cable a while ago due to pulling on it, and tripping over my 2m long cabled DTX700s countless times, I for one am grateful to the "slightly" tangle friendly coiled cables. 

 

But, if you truly hate them, look for a set of headphones with a removable cable and then just buy another cable. Unless you're okay with modding in which case google is your friend. 

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I had to get an extension cable for my DT990s due to the coiled cable always being under slight tension because of how far I sit away from my audio source. Wasn't a problem with my M50s due to the really long straight cable. Just went to the local guitar center & got a nice heavy-duty headphone extension cable for about $10 & there is no perceptible difference in SQ. As long as you don't get a super cheap cable with weak connectors you shouldn't notice a difference. 

 

Alternately you could just outright replace the cable as others in this thread have suggested but that is a bit more involved. 

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I moded my dt770 and the concept is pretty simple and it's hard to ruin the drivers unless you leave the soldering iron there for like 10 mins but I made a lot of little mistakes and took me forever.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I tried the mod and broke my left speaker.....so there goes my headphones

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Well I tried the mod and broke my left speaker.....so there goes my headphones

Maybe you didn't necessarily break it, maybe you just didn't do a good enough job?

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No I did a phenomenally terrible job on the soldering. I blame the soldering iron that I have, it had a terrible time trying to get the solder to melt for tinning the wires and such. It got to the point that I was melting the plastic around the metal prongs on the speaker. Till it popped out on me. On close inspection I realised that the thin copper wire that connects the prongs to the speaker broke so theres no connection any more. Pics speak more words:
 

Screwed up left speaker


I am going to try to see if I can fix it but I have almost no hope, its so small.....

 

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I got it all attached the first time with all the wires connected. The problem was that there was no stereo it was mono output for both speakers. So I opened it back up and tried to redo all the wiring a little neater. I couldn't get the wire to stick to the solder no matter how hard I tried. Being a complete novice, in soldering, I never figuring out what was wrong till it was too late. 

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I got it all attached the first time with all the wires connected. The problem was that there was no stereo it was mono output for both speakers. So I opened it back up and tried to redo all the wiring a little neater. I couldn't get the wire to stick to the solder no matter how hard I tried. Being a complete novice, in soldering, I never figuring out what was wrong till it was too late. 

 

The wires have a coating that you need to sand off. That's why they are colored. I made the same mistake for a while and then I remembered about the coating. It's easier to just use new wire. I used 24 awg speaker wire.

 

Edit: Also, you can get a new driver here for $55 but I would contact Beyer directly and see how much it would cost from them directly. It could be cheaper. http://www.fullcompass.com/product/393301.html

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Just take it somewhere and have them fix it this is probabbly an easy fix for someone who knows what they are doing

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The wires have a coating that you need to sand off. That's why they are colored. I made the same mistake for a while and then I remembered about the coating. It's easier to just use new wire. I used 24 awg speaker wire.

 

Edit: Also, you can get a new driver here for $55 but I would contact Beyer directly and see how much it would cost from them directly. It could be cheaper. http://www.fullcompass.com/product/393301.html

 

Sandpaper works well for the larger enamel wire like used on transformers but it can be a pain in the ass for the fine stranded stuff often used in headphones.

 

A little trick an old engineer taught me for removing the coating on that enameled wire is to use aspirin & a soldering iron. You just take a plain old tablet of aspirin, put the wire on the tablet, heat the wire up with the soldering iron & the coating comes right off. Aspirin is acetylsalicylic acid & apparently works well for removing enamel when heated.

 

Just make sure you have proper ventilation, don't want to breathe in the fumes.

 

Edit: For clarity talking about this kind of wire with the colored enamel coating, not the kind with normal plastic insulation:

 

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I have Beyerdynamics DT-990 Pros and I can't stand the coiled cable on them. I hate coiled cables so much I returned my m50's when I got them to get a straight cable version since it drove me nuts. The problem is there is no opinion for a straight cable for the DT-990s that is at a price point I like when I bought them (I can't return them now). I am obviously not going to refuse use of these great sounding headphones due to this but there has to be a way. Does anyone have a method or way of making the cable straight or at least longer?

I like the DT990's coiled cable ^_^

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The wires have a coating that you need to sand off. That's why they are colored. I made the same mistake for a while and then I remembered about the coating. It's easier to just use new wire. I used 24 awg speaker wire.

 

Edit: Also, you can get a new driver here for $55 but I would contact Beyer directly and see how much it would cost from them directly. It could be cheaper. http://www.fullcompass.com/product/393301.html

Ya, I figured that out the second time around. I burned off the coloring first, then sanded and whipped them down as best I could. Thats what I thought the problem was the first time I did it, but after opening it back up I realized that the speaker soldering prongs weren't clearing the newly installed jack. So I think it was getting contact with the soldering points on the jack and causing issues. It was also making crunchy and splitty audio. 

I went to my local radio shack and couldn't find any wiring that made sense for the small space that I was working with, everything was bulk for 17$+ for like 10f of wire, which I am not willing to spend (all I needed was a inch). So I took an really cheap pair of broken headphones then cut the wire and used that for connection. My soldering iron was a cheap 30watt one from walmart and I took terrible care of it. Plus even after replacing the tip it wouldn't get hot enough to melt the solder instantly on contact even after being on for 30min. I am going to invest in a better and higher wattage iron.

I will contact beyer about a possible replacement speaker. I think it will be worth 54$ for a replacement speaker or I might possibly try a different pair of open headphones. It depends if I am willing to drop a bunch of money (which I am but shouldn't ;) ), I am kinda hooked into the high quality headphones now. I think I might be able to bridge the thin wire with some solder to the prong. I realized that the one that detached was the ground and not the signal so I am hoping it will work still.

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