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Ya, I figured that out the second time around. I burned off the coloring first, then sanded and whipped them down as best I could. Thats what I thought the problem was the first time I did it, but after opening it back up I realized that the speaker soldering prongs weren't clearing the newly installed jack. So I think it was getting contact with the soldering points on the jack and causing issues. It was also making crunchy and splitty audio.

I went to my local radio shack and couldn't find any wiring that made sense for the small space that I was working with, everything was bulk for 17$+ for like 10f of wire, which I am not willing to spend (all I needed was a inch). So I took an really cheap pair of broken headphones then cut the wire and used that for connection. My soldering iron was a cheap 30watt one from walmart and I took terrible care of it. Plus even after replacing the tip it wouldn't get hot enough to melt the solder instantly on contact even after being on for 30min. I am going to invest in a better and higher wattage iron.

I will contact beyer about a possible replacement speaker. I think it will be worth 54$ for a replacement speaker or I might possibly try a different pair of open headphones. It depends if I am willing to drop a bunch of money (which I am but shouldn't ;) ), I am kinda hooked into the high quality headphones now. I think I might be able to bridge the thin wire with some solder to the prong. I realized that the one that detached was the ground and not the signal so I am hoping it will work still.

Search eBay for 24 awg ge speaker wire. It is $7 with free shipping for 100 ft. On mobile so can't get the link for you.
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Gauge isn't really all that important for this use case, not all that much current is being carried. Even 30AWG is rated to carry 0.86A in chassis wire application (short runs, not long distance power carrying) and 30AWG is tiny. 24AWG would be about right though like NannerBeans said. 

 

25ft roll of 24AWG on amazon for $4 with free shipping: http://www.amazon.com/NTE-Stranded-Hook-Up-Wire-Black/dp/B003N3BOVA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396494292&sr=8-1&keywords=24awg

 

 

You can read more about wire sizes & ratings here if you care: http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

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Gauge isn't really all that important for this use case, not all that much current is being carried. Even 30AWG is rated to carry 0.86A in chassis wire application (short runs, not long distance power carrying) and 30AWG is tiny. 24AWG would be about right though like NannerBeans said. 

 

25ft roll of 24AWG on amazon for $4 with free shipping: http://www.amazon.com/NTE-Stranded-Hook-Up-Wire-Black/dp/B003N3BOVA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396494292&sr=8-1&keywords=24awg

 

 

You can read more about wire sizes & ratings here if you care: http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

Spending the extra $3 for 100 ft is better because speaker wire comes in pairs so it is actually 200ft of wire and wiring headphones takes a lot of wire. 25ft will only be enough for 1 wire maybe 2 if he makes the wire short enough. The GE wire is also made for audio since it's speaker wire and not hook up wire. 

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I have to agree that coiled cables just add too much drag and weight to cables I prefer lightly braided cables.

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