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Time to get a new PSU

Parideboy
By Parideboy
in Power Supplies
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Go to solution Solved by GoldenLag,
4 hours ago, seon123 said:

It's extremely basic terminology, which should be very familiar to anyone with even the most basic insight into PC PSUs. 

Thats honestly just a snarky reply........

4 hours ago, Samfisher said:

Also what are group regs?  Everything I said in my first post is a good enough guideline to making your own decisions on what to get

Group regulated units, its been explained above in more detail that id go into. But yeah, would really point to specific units instead of an efficiency sticker. While there is less and less bad units the further up the efficiency ladder you go. You miss a lot of good units, especially when wanting anything at a sane budget. 

2 hours ago, Parideboy said:

The only difference between the RMx and the RMi is the Corsair Link functionality?

RMi is better but that is the major differentiator. Only the RMi is remotely worth it for the cost you presented. 

 

2 hours ago, Parideboy said:

How does the be quiet compare?

Better than the RMx, but worse than the RMi at the relevant wattages. 

 

3 hours ago, Parideboy said:

How good is the Enermax at a whopping 60€ cheaper?

Probably the best option out of the 4 presented. Better than the RMx while being cheaper than the other 3. 

Posted

At the end of this thread:

I've decided to change my PSU shortly. 'Shortly' became ASAP as the PSU decided to emit some lovely crackling sounds during the weekend. I'm no electrical engineer, but I know that it's not a good sign.

 

So, I've decided to retire this 5+ years old PSU for good. I've made a little list of the features I would really love to have.

 

Must-haves:

  • Modularity - modular, or at the very least semi-modular. I don't have a psu shroud in my case and cable management would be time-consuming otherwise
  • Quiet - doesn't have to be fan-less or anything fancy like that. I use my pc for work, and during meeting the PSU noise it's particularly distracting. The unit I'm replacing does 60dB under load (not even reaching 80% of the rated capacity), if it can beat this, that's good for me
  • Wattage - it needs enough wattage to power my current rig of course (i5 4460 - R9 390). I'm planning to get a new rig with the upcoming launches (Ryzen 4000, Rtx 3000, RDN2) and I would like to have enough wattage to keep the PSU. I was planning to go with a 1080/1440p @144hz system. Rumor has it that the 3000 series will consume around 3/400w. I'm really torn on the wattage. You'll really have to help me out on this one

 

What I don't care about:

  • 80+ rating - could be diamond or white for all that matters. I don't care about efficiency, as long the psu is reliable
  • RGB - don't hate it or like it, I wouldn't pay a premium for it tho
  • Sleeving - don't care much about it, as my case has a really tiny window. Besides, I could get some cablemod sleeved cables in the future

 

Budget:

I don't really have one. Guess it mostly depends on the wattage I'll choose to go with. I'll spend any (reasonable) amount of cash for a PSU that can deliver. Cheaping out on one the most important (if not THE most important) component in the system is a mistake, I've learned that the hard way.

MOTHERBOARD: ASRock H97 Pro4 CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 @3.30 Ghz Intel Xeon E3-1271v3 @4.00 Ghz RAM: 32Gb (4x8Gb) Kingstone HyperX Fury DDR3@1600 Mhz (9-9-9-27)

GPU: MSI 390 8Gb Gaming Edition PSU: XFX TS 650w Bronze Enermax Revolution D.F. 650w 80+ Gold MOUSE: Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum KEYBOARD: Monokey Standard Suave Blue

STORAGE: SSD Samsung EVO 850 250Gb // HDD WD Green 1Tb // HDD WD Blue 4Tb // HDD WD Blue 160Gb CASE: Fractal Design Define R5 Windowed OS: Windows 11 Pro x64 Bit

MONITORS: Samsung CFG7 C24FG7xFQ @144hz // Samsung SyncMaster TA350 LT23A350 @60hz Samsung Odyssey G7 COOLER: Noctua NH-D15

 

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Posted

80+ is where you know the quality parts are used.  There's literally no high quality PSU that isn't also efficient.  Efficiency isn't just how much electricity is wated due to inefficiencies in conversion.  Low efficiency means more power is wasted as HEAT, which reduces the lifespan of everything, AND increase fan noise due to needing more cooling.

 

A higher 80+ rating almost always means a well built PSU.

 

For your use case, 650w is more than enough, and is right a the efficiency curve of a good PSU (40%+ usage is where you get the best performance).  A RMx PSU from Corsair, the V Gold series from Cooler Master, and other similarly priced PSUs from Silverstone, Seasonic etc are all good bets on all the features you need.  Modularity, quietness, and quality.

QUOTE ME IN A REPLY SO I CAN SEE THE NOTIFICATION!

When there is no danger of failure there is no pleasure in success.

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Posted

its hard to recommend something without an actual budget, maybe try to find a 650 watt from something like a RMi/RMx, straight power 11, ion +, focus PX

G502 Lightspeed Review

PC:

Spoiler

i5-6400

GIGABYTE GA-H110M-DS2

CORSAIR VENGEANCE LPX 2X4 DDR4-2666MHz

ASUS ROG STRIX-GTX 1060-O6G

SEAGATE 2TB HDD

FUJISTU F300 240GB SSD

CORSAIR CX750M

Laptop:

Spoiler

Acer Nitro 5
i5 8300h
GTX 1050 4Gb
12 Gb RAM

128 Gb SSD

1 Tb HDD

Peripherals:

Spoiler

Keyboard:

Logitech G310 Atlas Dawn (Romer G)

Rexus Legionare MX5.1 (Content Browns)

Mice:

Logitech G602

Logitech G502 Lightspeed
Steelseries Rival 105

Logitech M330

Headset:

Logitech G430 
Cooler Master MH 752

 

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Posted
14 minutes ago, Samfisher said:

which reduces the lifespan of everything

Innefficiencies is not what would impact the lifespan of the part.....

14 minutes ago, Samfisher said:

Efficiency isn't just how much electricity is wated due to inefficiencies in conversion

Actually, efficiency only refferences the ammount of waste heat used...... Nothing else......

 

14 minutes ago, Samfisher said:

80+ is where you know the quality parts are used.

Efficiency doesnt reference what parts are used....... It can give a pointer to what topology is used, but also not really. 

 

14 minutes ago, Samfisher said:

other similarly priced PSUs

While not wrong, depending on the region, terrible advice as some units cost a lot, while other very little. 

16 minutes ago, Samfisher said:

higher 80+ rating almost always means a well built PSU

There are platinum rated group regs....... Iirc. 

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Just now, GoldenLag said:

Innefficiencies is not what would impact the lifespan of the part.....

Actually, efficiency only refferences the ammount of waste heat used...... Nothing else......

 

Efficiency doesnt reference what parts are used....... It can give a pointer to what topology is used, but also not really. 

 

While not wrong, depending on the region, terrible advice as some units cost a lot, while other very little. 

There are platinum rated group regs....... Iirc. 

Inefficient = uses more power from the wall = more heat generated = Fans spin faster = fans degrade faster = even higher noise.

 

Of course parts matter.  Good PSUs aren't made of cheap crap... It's an indicator, not THE indicator.

 

Also what are group regs?  Everything I said in my first post is a good enough guideline to making your own decisions on what to get.  They aren't recommendations on specific units.

QUOTE ME IN A REPLY SO I CAN SEE THE NOTIFICATION!

When there is no danger of failure there is no pleasure in success.

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Posted

Rm650x

Straight power 11 650w (80+ gold)

enermax revolution DF 650w

sama forza 650w

Bitfenix Whisper 650w

Bitfenix formula 650w

Adata XPG core reactor 650w

Fractal ion+ 660w

Phanteks AMP 650W

etc etc. just get the cheapest out of this lot

It is but human, to err, to buy a PSU, akin to dirt,

but fret not, young Padawan, for we will tell you, 

what will become, of that, which you have earned

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Posted
Just now, Samfisher said:

Inefficient = uses more power from the wall = more heat generated = Fans spin faster = fans degrade faster = even higher noise.

 

Of course parts matter.  Good PSUs aren't made of cheap crap... It's an indicator, not THE indicator.

 

Also what are group regs?  Everything I said in my first post is a good enough guideline to making your own decisions on what to get.  They aren't recommendations on specific units.

group regs are units that use group-voltage regulation. voltage on rails is regulated based on the sum total load on each of the rails. In a cross-load situation, voltages on the +5, +3.3, and +12V rails go out of the +-5% atx12V spec (https://www.intel.com/content/dam/www/public/us/en/documents/guides/single-rail-power-supply-platform-atx12vo-design-guide.pdf), which negatively affects hardware longevity

It is but human, to err, to buy a PSU, akin to dirt,

but fret not, young Padawan, for we will tell you, 

what will become, of that, which you have earned

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2 minutes ago, Samfisher said:

Inefficient = uses more power from the wall = more heat generated = Fans spin faster = fans degrade faster = even higher noise.

Tell me more about how the EVGA G3 is quieter, and spins its fan slower than the less efficient Pure Power 10. 

3 minutes ago, Samfisher said:

Of course parts matter.  Good PSUs aren't made of cheap crap... It's an indicator, not THE indicator.

Correct. Do note, however, that efficient does not mean good. You can make a super efficient PSU that performs like crap, has basically no hold up time, tiny heatsinks, a crappy fan, no protections, a short warranty and terrible modular connectors. Similarly, you can also make an inefficient PSU that performs well, has a long hold up time, adequate heatsinks, etc etc. 

5 minutes ago, Samfisher said:

Also what are group regs?  Everything I said in my first post is a good enough guideline to making your own decisions on what to get.  They aren't recommendations on specific units.

Short for group regulated PSUs. It's extremely basic terminology, which should be very familiar to anyone with even the most basic insight into PC PSUs. 

:)

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Posted
  • Author

Thanks to everyone that responded. I'll check the PSUs you guys suggested to get an idea of price and availability

 

53 minutes ago, GoldenLag said:

Actually, efficiency only refferences the ammount of waste heat used...... Nothing else......

I knew it worked this way. The 80+ certification only checks for efficiency, not things like ripple for example. Good PSUs usually have a good 80+ rating, but that doesn't necessarily mean that any 80+ rated psu is good

MOTHERBOARD: ASRock H97 Pro4 CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 @3.30 Ghz Intel Xeon E3-1271v3 @4.00 Ghz RAM: 32Gb (4x8Gb) Kingstone HyperX Fury DDR3@1600 Mhz (9-9-9-27)

GPU: MSI 390 8Gb Gaming Edition PSU: XFX TS 650w Bronze Enermax Revolution D.F. 650w 80+ Gold MOUSE: Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum KEYBOARD: Monokey Standard Suave Blue

STORAGE: SSD Samsung EVO 850 250Gb // HDD WD Green 1Tb // HDD WD Blue 4Tb // HDD WD Blue 160Gb CASE: Fractal Design Define R5 Windowed OS: Windows 11 Pro x64 Bit

MONITORS: Samsung CFG7 C24FG7xFQ @144hz // Samsung SyncMaster TA350 LT23A350 @60hz Samsung Odyssey G7 COOLER: Noctua NH-D15

 

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Posted (edited)
  • Author

Ok, I've managed to break down a list:

 

Corsair RM650x - 142€ 120€
Corsair RM650i - 150€
be quiet! Straight Power 11 - 120€
Enermax Revolution D.F. 650W - 92€

 

The other models are either out of stock, too expensive or straight up don't show in the search results.

The only difference between the RMx and the RMi is the Corsair Link functionality?
How does the be quiet compare? How good is the Enermax at a whopping 60€ cheaper?

 

I was able to find a better price on the RM650x

Edited by Parideboy
Edited pricing

MOTHERBOARD: ASRock H97 Pro4 CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 @3.30 Ghz Intel Xeon E3-1271v3 @4.00 Ghz RAM: 32Gb (4x8Gb) Kingstone HyperX Fury DDR3@1600 Mhz (9-9-9-27)

GPU: MSI 390 8Gb Gaming Edition PSU: XFX TS 650w Bronze Enermax Revolution D.F. 650w 80+ Gold MOUSE: Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum KEYBOARD: Monokey Standard Suave Blue

STORAGE: SSD Samsung EVO 850 250Gb // HDD WD Green 1Tb // HDD WD Blue 4Tb // HDD WD Blue 160Gb CASE: Fractal Design Define R5 Windowed OS: Windows 11 Pro x64 Bit

MONITORS: Samsung CFG7 C24FG7xFQ @144hz // Samsung SyncMaster TA350 LT23A350 @60hz Samsung Odyssey G7 COOLER: Noctua NH-D15

 

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  • Solution
4 hours ago, seon123 said:

It's extremely basic terminology, which should be very familiar to anyone with even the most basic insight into PC PSUs. 

Thats honestly just a snarky reply........

4 hours ago, Samfisher said:

Also what are group regs?  Everything I said in my first post is a good enough guideline to making your own decisions on what to get

Group regulated units, its been explained above in more detail that id go into. But yeah, would really point to specific units instead of an efficiency sticker. While there is less and less bad units the further up the efficiency ladder you go. You miss a lot of good units, especially when wanting anything at a sane budget. 

2 hours ago, Parideboy said:

The only difference between the RMx and the RMi is the Corsair Link functionality?

RMi is better but that is the major differentiator. Only the RMi is remotely worth it for the cost you presented. 

 

2 hours ago, Parideboy said:

How does the be quiet compare?

Better than the RMx, but worse than the RMi at the relevant wattages. 

 

3 hours ago, Parideboy said:

How good is the Enermax at a whopping 60€ cheaper?

Probably the best option out of the 4 presented. Better than the RMx while being cheaper than the other 3. 

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Posted

yes, golden is right, the DF is a downright bargain at 92

It is but human, to err, to buy a PSU, akin to dirt,

but fret not, young Padawan, for we will tell you, 

what will become, of that, which you have earned

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  • Author

Thank god you guys replied, I was that close on pulling the trigger on the RMx.

 

The DF is actually 100ish with shipping costs, doesn't actually matter I assume, since it's still better than the RMx while being cheaper.

 

Thank you again for your time

MOTHERBOARD: ASRock H97 Pro4 CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 @3.30 Ghz Intel Xeon E3-1271v3 @4.00 Ghz RAM: 32Gb (4x8Gb) Kingstone HyperX Fury DDR3@1600 Mhz (9-9-9-27)

GPU: MSI 390 8Gb Gaming Edition PSU: XFX TS 650w Bronze Enermax Revolution D.F. 650w 80+ Gold MOUSE: Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum KEYBOARD: Monokey Standard Suave Blue

STORAGE: SSD Samsung EVO 850 250Gb // HDD WD Green 1Tb // HDD WD Blue 4Tb // HDD WD Blue 160Gb CASE: Fractal Design Define R5 Windowed OS: Windows 11 Pro x64 Bit

MONITORS: Samsung CFG7 C24FG7xFQ @144hz // Samsung SyncMaster TA350 LT23A350 @60hz Samsung Odyssey G7 COOLER: Noctua NH-D15

 

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Posted
Just now, Parideboy said:

Thank god you guys replied, I was that close on pulling the trigger on the RMx.

 

The DF is actually 100ish with shipping costs, doesn't actually matter I assume, since it's still better than the RMx while being cheaper.

 

Thank you again for your time

yep, anytime m8

It is but human, to err, to buy a PSU, akin to dirt,

but fret not, young Padawan, for we will tell you, 

what will become, of that, which you have earned

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6 hours ago, BillNyeThecommieSpy said:

voltage on rails is regulated based on the sum total load on each of the rails. 

That's not how switch-mode power supplies work (voltage regulation isn't done based on "sum total load" on each rail - they don't measure load at all), but yes, group regulated units usually don't regulate voltages very well.

 

6 hours ago, BillNyeThecommieSpy said:

In a cross-load situation, voltages on the +5, +3.3, and +12V rails go out of the +-5% atx12V spec (https://www.intel.com/content/dam/www/public/us/en/documents/guides/single-rail-power-supply-platform-atx12vo-design-guide.pdf), which negatively affects hardware longevity

Not the +3.3V, since this rail is regulated independently in group regulated power supplies. And you linked to a different specification standard that doesn't apply to any current or past ATX PSUs - here's what you probably meant to use: https://www.intel.com/content/dam/www/public/us/en/documents/guides/power-supply-design-guide-june.pdf

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15 hours ago, seon123 said:

Short for group regulated PSUs. It's extremely basic terminology, which should be very familiar to anyone with even the most basic insight into PC PSUs. 

Too bad you aren't familiar with expressing your points in a friendly and mature manner, which should be familiar to anyone with even the most basic of proper human communication.  I'm no expert in PSUs, nor do I claim to be one.  I can learn about PSUs, but it's much harder to be a likeable person, which you have failed immensely.

QUOTE ME IN A REPLY SO I CAN SEE THE NOTIFICATION!

When there is no danger of failure there is no pleasure in success.

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10 hours ago, OrionFOTL said:

That's not how switch-mode power supplies work (voltage regulation isn't done based on "sum total load" on each rail - they don't measure load at all), but yes, group regulated units usually don't regulate voltages very well.

 

Not the +3.3V, since this rail is regulated independently in group regulated power supplies. And you linked to a different specification standard that doesn't apply to any current or past ATX PSUs - here's what you probably meant to use: https://www.intel.com/content/dam/www/public/us/en/documents/guides/power-supply-design-guide-june.pdf

yes, thanks for the link. Also, thanks for telling me about the regulation.  Good catch on the +3.3, I didn't portray the fact that it's differently regulated (on another rail, hell I was wrong about that. Thanks for letting me know that the +3.3V rail doesn't go kaput, so have a gold, kind stranger have a like 😛

It is but human, to err, to buy a PSU, akin to dirt,

but fret not, young Padawan, for we will tell you, 

what will become, of that, which you have earned

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